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theabunai

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  1. Posted · Edited by theabunai

    Steve Meade Fi BTL

    steve meade is running 4 of them in his Tahoe

    check out this vid... looks like some gorilla is stuck in his back area and is trying to get out of the back

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/videos/gorilla2.wmv

    here is his other videos for those who don't know..

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/index.php...3&Itemid=42

    The latter videos toward the bottom are when he put the 4 BTL's in and then wired up his 4 rf T4000.1

    AND he has room for all his kids and the neighbors kids too !!

    http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/in...php?topic=297.0

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  2. Posted

    Dual one ohms can be wired to 1OHM

    Sub 1 = Dual coils in parallel for a .5 ohm load

    Sub 2 = Dual coils in parallel for a .5 ohm load

    then sub 1 and sub 2 in series for 1 ohm load

    OR

    Sub 1 = Dual coils in series for a 2 ohm load

    Sub 2 = Dual coils in series for a 2 ohm load

    then sub 1 and sub 2 in parallel for 1 ohm load

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  4. Posted · Edited by theabunai

    Now that's one bad ass picture

    Scott from Fi should make it a poster for the office....

    chit the score now is

    Fi = 2

    rear Mirror = 0

    Grim broke his rear view mirror off too lol

    Damn i should take a pic of my rear panels that broke (the pins holding them in).

    Scott you need to put a disclaimer on your site...

    fi eats Rear view mirrors for lunch... :komet:

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  5. Posted

    Oh good me and chris has a head start...

    I just put my review in my sig hoping people will see it and click it.....

    I am gonna be adding my ported box test add-on to the review sunday....

    I think they should remain in the manufacturers forum as well.... easy to find..

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  6. Posted

    there are two good reviews about these subs in the review section of the boards...

    once can be found in my sig

    the Fi Q review, an excellent review by Chris" can be found in the same forum...

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  13. Posted · Edited by theabunai

    baggedbirds.com

    Now you know why in my review i suggest saving the boxes in case you need to ship it back for any reason.....

    Ahhhh this brings back memories !! :wub:

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  14. Posted

    2003blkhemi

    Get one SSD 10" and wang the hell out of it...

    Hell i been trying to wang the hell out of my 12's and well lets just say

    12" SSD - 2pts Theabunai - 0pts

    Scott, thanks for making it hard for me to break this sub.. Wife said can't buy new subs unless something goes wrong with my old ones.....

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  16. Posted

    Well like porbably most audiophiles I didn't settle for just dropping it in and hooking up the rcas I wanted to see the BIA (built-in-amp) and WOW it was pretty strong for a HU. And pretty damn good SQ considering....

    Pros - 9857 has a bass frequency boost that you can select between 60hz up to 100hz in 10hz increments so 60, 70 80 90 100hz not only that you can widen or narrow the range so say i pick 60hz i can widen the range to peak at 60 and slope gradually down the range both ways (so 60hz peak then it slopes gradually down to 50 and gradually up toward 70hz) you narrow it for a much steeper slope to target the selected boost area. the is one for highs but without the narrow/wide range selector ... Love the auto dimming as well... it adjust the display per the light in the cars interior, if it is day time it switches to a much more visible display in daylight then as it gets dark in automatically switches to a much brighter display. It can be set manually too.. The sound is clean too very powerful and for an extra boost in quality it has the option to shut off the internal amp and direct all power to the RCA outs, 3 settings of BBE also compliment this units SQ output. 3 (front/rear/sub) RCA outputs are good for since i plan on upgrading to some audio control processors. Ipod interface with a 25 dollar fast link cable makes this unit well worth the money. The ipod controls are 10xs faster than my cousing pioneer premier as his was sluggish. coolness

    Cons - 2volt preout -_- I have it hooked up to a brand new alpine ere-g180 11 band EQ/sub crossover with a 15+ DB sub boost along with 4 volt pre-outs... need to buy extra stuff for XM, bluetooth and sterring wheel hook up that can cost all together an additional 300 bucks....

    Clean sound though just need a Pre-Amp Line Driver to increase the head units voltage to improve SQ of the system (letting you turn your amps input sensitivity to match the line driver voltage is a great SQ booster)

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  17. Posted

    Chris you mention the 8v pre-outs

    That is the only gripe i have with my HU (Alpine 9857) i wish alpine would increase their pre-out voltage to at least 5 or 6v and have them available in more models then just the upper half....

    Also i am going to BI-amp my components in the next 2 weeks as well.... The subs are just drowning them out and with my vehicle there is just no room and budget to add more front stage...

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  18. Posted · Edited by theabunai

    Oh whole heartedly i agree they should be louder If I am not mistaken the CVR's can only handle around 400 RMS compared to the SSD 800 RMS....

    From my EAR and vehicle stand point, the kickers play at a higher Frequency.. meaning they were louder in the 55-100 hz range... where the SSD (and EXACTLY what i wanted) played exponentially louder in the lower range of 30-50hz range..... We did throw my box in his 4 runner and WOW the SSD's really were louder with just a box swap...

    I love the low extension they give me, the kickers played a little to high for what i wanted.... so that gave it a punchy rubber band type bass sort of like Bom Bom bom where as the Fi's go Boooom Booom Booom

    I compared songs as well to

    Where DJ laz maMami El Negro (i believe the base is around +60hz) was louder with the kickers though punchy sounding and sort of all over the place (i can't really explain it other than it sounded like the control wasn't there)

    the SSD played them softer but with more control (SQ) (with the same 500 watts now with the RMS 1000K they effortlessly killed CVX/R)

    BUT with Danity Kanes Showstoppers the kicker sounding like it was flailing about and much softer in this range (I think 35-45hz)

    This was not a direct swap for swap and we actually tested the JL w6 box for box after the first install so my kicker comaprison is from memory....

    Where the SSD just totally WANG the chit out of this song... i mean i didn't even like Danity Kane but now this song (and Young Jeezy Air force) is my demo songs....

    I am talking for the first time i have had sounds, has my ass cheeks and lower hips actually rumbled.

    Like i said though I wish i could get the flatwind and coppercoil together oh dear god. WANG WANG WANG

    End point - Scott is one crazy bastard for selling a sub that performs at this level for the price he list them at.....

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  19. Posted · Edited by theabunai

    Wanger you will be happy and the sub may surprise you !!

    I have had JL's and prior to my SSD i had Kicker CompVX's (about same wattage RMS for the SSD and CompVX )

    I was a kicker abd JL (my last sub was a w6) nut hugger after having both JL and kicker i thought kicker really has set the bar for spl(and i still love their products) but when i put the SSD in all i could say was WOW... I didn't expect much of a difference but boy was i HAPPILY surprised.... Same wattage (well the 500 watts anyways) and the ssd was so impressive.... I have to admit i was Leary at first since where i live nobody could demo the Fi sub for me. So i went out on a limb and now i have no regrets... And i'm sure you won't either

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  20. Posted

    80inches

    You know i always call my old install shop to get the termlab out and ready to meter (they have termlab AND Audiocontrol). I want to do both...

    and that's when i decided to upgrade.

    Called again to meter but now we are building a new box...

    I PROMISE i will meter this thing and post pics along with numbers to verify what i am hitting....

    I should meter the sealed first then meter the ported to see what type of gain/loss I am getting with the different enclosures...

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  21. Posted

    "quick" do you mean changes in frequency at a fast past like say from 40hz to 35hz to 32 hz rather fast ?

    If so it handled it pretty well.... Perfect example would be some techno songs.. or a song from boys-to-men have this type of bassline quickly shifting from one note to another.... I hear no lag time or off beat line the sub plays them well...

    As for mechanical noise... funny you should ask

    I had the subs facing up in the get go but i could hear what i thought was mechanical noise so I tried to face the subs to the rear (as indicated in my review above) and i heard this distinct noise but underlying.... It sounded as if something was hitting the subs cone like if you held a piece of cardboard a 1/4" away from the cone and when it would excursion the cone would hit the cardboard.... I thought it was mechanical noise from the sub so i had to investigate....

    I pulled the hatch up and played the subs working my way up the volume ladder to see when i was getting mechanical noise (god i love my alpine remote) and to my surprise there was none....

    I tracked it down..... What had happened was one of the panel that surround my hatch window was rattled out of it's location from the pressure.... Apparently, The subs rattled the panel pins out of the panel and it was just flailing about... I lost the panel pins so now i gotta go back to the dealer for new ones...

    So PERSONALLY my subs show no signs at full RMS of mechanical noise what so ever...

    My JL used to make a lot of noise and tracked it down to tinsel lead slapping..

    Scott and the team makes such a great sub that they know this and put this beautiful kinky felt cloth on the underside of the cone right above the tinsel leads so that if the tinsel does hit the cone during excursion it doesn't make noise cause of the felt cloth... :takepix: I had pictures of this prior to the forums reset..

    BUT

    DAMN IT SCOTT AND NICK OWE ME SOME PANEL PINS... I DIDN'T SEE ANY DISCLAIMER THAT STATES.....

    WARNING !! SUBS MAY LOOSEN OR RATTLE CAR PANELS OUT OF PLACE.....

    not to mention i almost lost a screw in my license plate holder

    *note to self NEVER put your plates on with a hand held screw driver when you are feeding your Fi subs 2K facing the rear*

    *note to self need to remove that folded cardboard behind my license plate and replace it with deadening material*

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  22. Posted

    I broke my SSD 12s in a little different

    when i first installed them into the enclosure i checked the subs excursion by pushing on them lightly to feel the tightness of the cone movement...

    I had them wired at 4ohms (I have dual 2ohm coils) and played them for a week..

    I checked the movement of the cone again and noticed it moved a little more freely (not as stiff)...

    After this time i began to open it up a bit more (volume wise) and noticed it played slightly louder (in fact i had to check all my gain settings on the amps to see if they moved)...

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  24. Posted

    I preferred the sealed option after hearing all three boxes, 1.0 cubic feet was musically impressive..

    though i am almost 90% positive the ported enclosure would yield louder numbers but to the ear musically the sealed was so rich and hit hard (plus at 1ohm the damping factor is lower so the sealed enclosure helps control a bit)

    Actually Chris, that was exactly how we made the ported enclosure (per Scotts recommendation) we did the "CRX" style ported subs up port back on the drivers side.

    We are going to swap out the enclosure in two weeks to a new ported that will yield 33hz tuning with 44 square ft of port area. roughly 4.0 after all displacement for both subs in a common chamber...

    I will post the review once it is done and we are done pounding the crap out of the sub..

    i'm feeding this bad boy close to 950 true RMS and i could've sworn i heard it burp "is that all you got" :ready2go:

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  25. Posted · Edited by theabunai

    Chris has set the bar so my turn :lickscreen:

    Vehicle info

    - Vehicle - Scion tC hatchback 2007

    - Power - Stock Battery, Stock 100 amp Alt, Optima yellow top 34/78 In the rear

    System info

    - Sub woofers - 2x Fi 12" SSD D2 with copper coil option

    - Amps - 2x US Amps MD.1D (RMS 1,000 watts avg. @ 13.6 V each sub @ 1ohm)

    ~Also tested with 2 soundstream rubicon 502 amps (RMS 500 watts avg. @ 14.4 v @ 4ohm)

    Enclosure info

    - Enclosure - Currently 1.05 cubic feet per sub (after all displacement)

    Also Sealed enclosures used were 1.2 per sub and a ported 2.0 @ 33hz sloted

    - Sub placement - Facing UP in the rear hatch Also tried facing REAR of hatch

    Comparison info

    - Subs I have used extensively - JL w6, Kicker Comps CVS/CVX, Infinity 12, JBL 12

    Songs used:

    - Daily driving (i tested for daily driving since that is what my system is geared to do) - Showstoppers - Danity Kane, Airforce - Young Jeezy, Mariah Carey - Hero

    the Review

    First off, normal reviews just dive right into the subs "sound" or "performance" but, like Chris's review found @ Fi Q 12 Reviewed, I need to comment on the "buying" portion of the experience... After all it all ties into to total "EXPERIENCE" of the sub...

    Pre-buying - First of all, Scott is the most patient man in car audio sales... gee i must've sent him 4 or 5 emails about the sub, some questions asked time and time again and the guy just kept answering them in such a professional yet friendly manner (like if he lived next door to me or something). already i'm feeling confident about getting this sub.

    Purchase made - yupp went ahead and did it.... The tracking info was emailed to me with-in 24 hours with estimated date arrival (i'm sure this is a case by case basis). impressed and at ease knowing i can track my subs online...

    Arrival - WOW they were packed so good, I was shocked at the care and attention to detail just the packing was done in. I felt confident already. (yes i saved the boxes in case i need to send them back for a recone or anything else that may come up ~ I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS). Subs were beautiful :takepix:

    packingfi.jpg

    REVIEW...

    Sub woofer Build

    this sub was built with utmost care and attention to detail... I have only "heard" (Rather READ) other people say these subs were excellently built.... but there is nothing like seeing it for yourself..

    magnet.jpgsubbasket.jpg

    dustcap.jpg

    500 Watt Review

    500 watts per sub review NO electrical upgrades made-

    So me and my buddies (all installers) decided to make 2 boxes. 2 sealed (1.2cuft & 1.0cuft) and 1 ported (see above).

    We drop them in and hook them up to 2 rubicon 502 (500 Watts bridged for each sub, UNDER the subs RMS value of 800).

    We tried all sub enclosures and to the EAR, the sealed 1.0 sounded the richest and deepest.

    Holy mother of god they sounded so damn loud. I couldn't believe what i heard and felt...

    With only 500 watts these thing pounded. you can feel your throat tickle and a little discomfort in your inner ear. I couldn't believe it.

    Cons - For my enclosure and power the upper end 60hz - 100hz were played slightly softer than my previous subs. It wasn't as loud as the lower half and seemed as if someone turned my gains down. Still pretty accurate at the Higher frequencies..

    Pros - The low end was utterly amazing with this sub and enclosure. 35-55 Hz were loud and very accurate. Not just BOOM but BOOOOOOOM low end dragging shake your booty bass.... LOUD and very evident that this sub loves to accentuate the low end of the scale...

    Now in comes the big guns. I didn't expect it to sound so good and the problem that this caused was i felt the freaking need to feed these things RMS. If they sounded this good a 500 watts (well more like 400 since my electrical wasn't upgraded and voltage would drop to 11.8 - 12V at times)

    I went ahead and ordered the 2 1K watt amps (hey nick knows, Overhead isn't a BAD thing when played safely, cleaner signal since gains can be set lower).

    1000 Watt per sub review - Battery in the back for sub amps..

    does Fi know their subs or do they know their subs. all the people who ask "what should i make the box" "How much power" should really take into account the companies recommendations found on the site, cause what i thought was loud and low at 500 watts was NOTHING in comparison to 1000 watts. Jesus christ what a dramatic change. the sub was just so bad ass. the lows were just so clear and much louder,

    the subs seemed to be in so much more control of its extension accuracy at this level.. I never thought that such a dramatic change could occur by feeding this thing it's recommended power. Not only did i hear a distinct improvement in everything from accuracy to sound but even the higher end frequencies seemd to come more "alive".... though still softer then the targeted 35-55 hz, the sub played the higher end with BETTER control with this wattage... It didn't sound like it was struggling to play the note anymore but rather played it effortlessly... Physical altercations, vibrating the throat and ear, hair moves, clothes move, with the windows up VERY uncomfortable pressure in the ear. Chest pounding... Just AWSOME..

    Cons - Man i wish i could feed this thing more power. but that is not a performance issue. though i do wish that the flatwind coil AND copper coil could be incorporated together...

    Pros - Unbelievable loudness and low end with this sub, Able to shine in ported AND sealed enclosures. Exhibits good control and accuracy even at high excursion. Best of all, I didn't have to sell ANY of my kids to get a pair !! :fing34:

    Any questions let me know

    Coming up

    A big ALOHA goes out to Scott AKA Fi Car audio (I'm gonna break your patience one day LOL), Nick AKA NDMstang65 (i swear i go to you for everything LOL) and Shawn Flemming for just trolling these forums and helping everyone out......

    Full review of the Ported enclosure with the new amps WOOT WOOT :thanx:

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