yautja

So I'm about to build my second sub, but I'm stuck on which dustcap to use. I originally ordered the Carbon Fiber dustcap, but ended up getting the Poly dustcap as a freebie with an order I made. After placing it on the cone just to see what it looks like, I'm starting to wonder if the Poly dustcap actually looks better? What do you guys think? Go with the Carbon Fiber dustcap, or the Poly dustcap?

x2 Just use a blow dryer to heat up the damaged dustcap/adhesive and use a razor to separate the dust cap from the cone. Takes less than 5 mins to do.

Very nice!!! What type of paint did you use on the top and bottom plate? And did you paint the basket yourself? And I'm guessing you got those spiders from ultra_audio on ebay (he has spiders with the exact style lead setup as yours, which is what I also used on my build). If so, I have asked him and he confirmed they are rated as medium/hard stiffness. You can hit up Zeuslicious on car audio classifieds or caraudio.com and he can sell you soft 10" spiders to help bring that FS down for the next build.

How many did you start off with if you don't mind me asking? And are the next batch due in February because that's how long it's going to take to build them?

I wouldn't worry about it too much. People here like to act like it's impossible to build a decent custom sub but that's just not true. Sure, the first or second time you build one the T/S specs may not be exactly what you want, but with experience you start to learn which parts work well together. For example, below are two custom subs built by a member on caraudio.com (Zeus for those who know him). You'll also see the T/S specs for those subs. I would have no issues running those subs and I'm sure they would perform just fine if not better than a lot of other subs. As far as SPLaudio, I couldn't really tell you what his custom subs are like as I've never played with one. From what I've seen on the forums, he seems to be more of a SPL guy. I have seen a lot of the subs that he builds using multiple medium to hard stiffness spiders (not my cup of tea for a daily driver lol) and I have never seen anyone post the T/S specs of the subs he builds. However I have also never seen any bad reviews on him and everyone seems to like the subs they get from him.

What ever came of this? Did you ever get a chance to test it in a completed motor?

Red Star Neo huh? Looks pretty sweet! Do they plan on releasing them in the US?

Question, can you use this without having to imbed it in the top plate? If so, it seems like a really useful tool to do some thermal testing with custom built subs for the DIY'ers

Well if you do need to hire more help I live in Las Vegas. Have been into car audio for 10 years now and have a pretty good technical understanding of things. This username is pretty new by I have much older ones at different forums. I've emailed your company once about this but was told your fully staffed. If that changes please give me a PM

I've read in your other posts that you use SpeaD and Reverse SpeaD to design your motors. Do you happen to use DYNE Analytics MoTIV as well? Only reason I ask is because the picture above is exactly the way it's shown in MoTIV. I've never seen a video of someone using SpeaD so I'm not sure what their graphs or models look like. Thanks

Hey, I currently have an older 15" SSD with copper coils (before they automatically came with them lol) in a 3.5cf enclosure tuned to 34hz getting 1000rms. Unfortunately, I have gotten use to it and it doesn't feel nearly loud enough. So now I am going to get a SP418 running off a Hifonics HFi3000D at 1 ohm. Question is, what size enclosure would you guys recommend? I drive a very small 2008 Hyundai Accent hatchback, and will have to take out one of the back seats for this thing lol. The dimensions I have available are W=23", D=44" and H=24", so about 11cf to work with. I was thinking around 6.5-7cf tuned to 30Hz? What do you guys think?

Sorry it took so long to update. Right now I have the 18" SP4 in a 8cf enclosure tuned to 32Hz powered by my Soundstream Rubicon 2500. However the gains are only set to give it about 1200 watts as I only have a 90 amp alternator without any extra batteries. Voltage is usually around 13.5V but sometimes dips down to 12.5 on really bass heavy songs. I will be upgrading to a 200 amp alt. and some batteries eventually. As of right now I'm loving this sub. It's much louder than the 15" SSD I had in there before and can't wait to give it the full 2500 RMS. I also found that I really like the sound of 18's. The lows are just awesome. I'll try to take some pics here soon and post them.

It's all good. Already sent an email and they'll let me know when it's ready and I can pick it up. Already refunded my shipping too You should come to a bass ballin comp after you get that installed, its always nice to meet fellow bass heads in Vegas! Sounds good. I've been meaning to go to some comps just to see what I meter but I always forget lol. When is the next comp? I want to get my 15" SSD metered and then see the difference when I get the SP4 installed! Currently have the Rubicon 2500 hooked up to the SSD and it's a bit louder now lol.

Get two dual 1 ohm SSD's. As far as the amp, I too was thinking of the Hifonics 3000d.1 for my SP4 but after reading a lot of bad reviews on them I decided to go with a Soundstream RUB1.2500D. It puts out 2500 watts at 1 ohm and from the reviews I have read from people who own it, it seems to be a reliable amp and does rated power. You can get them for $329 plus free shipping at onlinecarstereo.com

It's all good. Already sent an email and they'll let me know when it's ready and I can pick it up. Already refunded my shipping too

Ordered the sub last night. Only thing left now is to buy a new HO alt. Everything should be installed in about a month. I'll let you guys know how it performs.

Ahh ok thanks. I have decided to go with the SP418, will be ordering it tonight! Will be doing 8cf tuned to 30hz, and I'm changing the amp to a soundstream rubicon 2500. Amp is on the way as we speak!!! Quick question NDM, I actually live in Las vegas. Is there any way I can just pick the sub up from your location when it's done so I don't have to pay shipping? Thanks

I'm not worried about the audible difference between 2500-3000 watts. I just wasn't sure what the mechanical limits are of the sub. I didn't want to put it in the biggest enclosure recommended and then give it a possible 500 watts rms more than what its rated for and pray nothing breaks. I'm sure it's a beefy sub, but it's also an expensive one and I would hate to break it and not have it covered under warranty due to an improper enclosure. That's why i was thinking of going a little smaller, 6.5-7cf just in case like you said. Hmmm, maybe I should just go with an AA Mayhem since this sub hasn't been out very long and not too many have experience with it. I'm not sure, guess I will have to sleep on this one and read some more reviews on the AA Mayhem. Thanks

Yes, I can see they recommend that on their site quite easily. However I bet those specs also depend on the type of power you're putting to the sub, and what kind of sound you're after, which they do not specify. That's why I'm asking if anyone has any experience with the subs personally. I don't want to build a 8cf enclosure and be putting max power on it and end up pushing it beyond its limits. Thanks anyways though..... But to be more specific, I'm definitely doing a ported enclosure, sub facing up and the port facing forward. I mostly listen to rap and love the lows so that's what I'm going after. The amp is a little overrated from what I've heard, so I'll probably be sending it closer to 2200-2500 watts instead of 3000.