shizzzon

OMG.... Do you even have enough bass in that vehicle? I like loud front stage too but jesus christ... Can the bass keep up?

when i used to use jasper, if the bolts werent tight enough, cutting many holes would jar them loose and cause inaccurate cuts. tightening them tighter would spiderweb the jig because it's fragile.

you sure you have a ground loop and not a power filtering issue? I thought that's what i had until it was the latter... Power filtering is expensive to attack with extra equipment.

When a battery in the rear is installed, the battery up front is hardly ever used for aftermarket use for rear equipment. The resistance in the line is too great forcing the current demand to reside mostly in the rear. In my testing, a single 3/0 cable from front to rear on a 300A load only allowed 8% of the load to come from the front battery.

As what Tim said, the Jasper jig is very fragile. I also went through two of them. I picked up one from Toolmaker for ~$80 and it's a beast. Made out of pure aluminum and able to make cutouts up to ~24" unlike what the Jasper jig can do. His version comes with practically all mounts so the router always stays flush on the material you are cutting. You never have to worry about the bolts loosening while using it to cut many circles or breaking the jig from it being too fragile.

In my tC, ALL my 5500ds had to use 90 degree rca adapters and i had no problems.

That myth was formed because the diameter of the conductor for welding cable is smaller than most car audio wire because it's less stranded. That's the only reason.

ScannerRadio GoogleSky Skype Google Translate SmartTools Remote Desktop

so do i.. I have the M1s.. I clamped 1,300w to one able to handle this power for about 20 seconds with full on clipping. If i backed it down to reduce clipping, it would sustain the power for about 45-60 seconds before stinking. These are with Crescendo amps FYI in case there are some filtering issues.

Well.. the XLs won't hold up much past double their thermal power for more than ~20-30 seconds before they start stinkin. think you should look at some 3-4krms drivers.

I deal with numbers.. Without them, i can't analyze much... Measure everything as it's happening. Measure AC voltage running to sub and components. Measure ohm load when stereo is off and disconnected from amp of sub and components. Measure voltage drop at amp(s) at full tilt.

Since no one else is going to mention this, i'll throw this out there.. This is talk i've talked with other people about so i'll throw these "ideas" out there to be proven wrong or incorrect hopefully so more of these theories can be laid to rest.. #1- tinsel lead installation- These leads are inside the spider, right? IF they are.. then wouldn't that reduce the amount of current they can sustain? Just like with anything, concealed wiring lowers the ampacity of the wire vs running them over the spider.. #2- the source of the fire was NOT at a tinsel lead location.. How does that happen? These 2 things i've seen mentioned in other words in this thread and not in this thread so might as well post it now to strike it down but at least give a reason as to why...

Defiantly do business with him again? That sounds a little iffy, hehe. I was involved to with this transaction, everything was, sad to say, A-OK!!

Go ahead and post up the build log but leave the quickie out of it.

I was talking with Quentin about how WinISD calculates port velocity and, he can explain it better than I can, but appears that they do it incorrectly. It was discovered in the chat one night when i mentioned the higher you tune, the larger the port needs to be to maintain port velocity X. When everyone in the chat strongly objected and said it's the other way around.

Ok, here is a brief way to answer everything here.. PHCA would be the spec to look at if you were burping.. if they list it. CA\CCA would be the spec to look at for averaging. NOTE- PHCA\CA\CCA all are rated in time via PULSE current so I guess we can somewhat correlate that with dynamic draw(hopefully). aH by itself is pointless, but when compared with other batteries, this will let you know which batteries have longer reserve for averaging or demoing, daily driving, etc.. I can not give an estimate to the amount of aH to look for for a certain amount of power, but i can say this to point out what Shogen said- Higher CA usually brings higher aH. Eh.. yes but depending on the focus of the battery, that is when that changes. IE- D3100 has 110aH but equivalent batts of like weight or Max Amps or CA\CCA will have considerably MORE aH than the D3100. XS Power D series is engineered so it will slightly sacrifice reserve for more instantaneous burst of power. This method reduces the amount of voltage drop that other batteries will undoubtedly suffer from. I would purely look at aH just as a reference to compare the spec to other batts to gauge how their reserve is IF you are going to be using them that way. Otherwise, companies like XS Power, Odyssey, Xstatic.. there reserve specs on some of their batts are far different than other typical AGM batteries.

u should put the stinger up front and the 65 in the back and see if that helps.

I seen manufactured published specs on an amp and was curious on something to see if this is common among all amps or just this particular one. They listed the current draw for voltage tested and output power so calculating efficiency was easy. Here is what it shows at a 1 ohm load- 14.4v- 78% 16v- 77% 18v- 71% Is this normal performance among 18v amps?

Well, They must sell the standardized size per code. It is Stranded TTHN wire. Meaning, it's stranded but when you touch it, it won't feel like feathers in your hand. They use larger strands in their wire rope. However, i personally prefer this because the wire is so small already, it makes it easier to fish through holes and gives stronger connections because it's not prone to moving all over the place. Just go to Lowes and check it out yourself.

Just go to Lowes. I get 500ft of 14awg wire there for just under $50 a roll.

If you use tampons, bring some extra to slamology.. i'm trying to save money and i've been a bitch lately.

It depends on what you mean by sub break-in. Breaking in a sub does change a sub so what is your definition of breakin is a myth?

Well, they are also revising the SMD too to even greater thermal ability.. Maybe you should wait until that happens and see what you think about it.

ah, there we go. i'm an SPL fiend.. so when you say sub AND amp to power it.. that tells me budget is whatever.. In that case, if you just wanted straight crazy SPL, i'd go with Fi's new Team Fi sub if they ever get it on the website.. Otherwise, i'd go with the SSA Evil. The Evil will not sacrifice a nice musical experience with SPL either. that's a bonus for the Evil.

depends on where it's going.. I'm assuming a trunk.. IF so, ehh.. i hate trunks so i dont know. If a hatchback.. still debatable based on firing direction.