manbeer

they have a great calculator on this site for you application: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...calculatorflash Go to that and enter the dimensions as follows Width: 40 Height: 16 Top Depth:20 Bottom depth: 20 Wood thickness: .75" Square Port Height: 14.5 Square Port Width: 5 it should fill out all the other info for you, and as you enter the dimensions you see the box take shape. also gives you the sizes for all the cuts you will need to make. get some cardboard and play around with different sizes to see what will fit through the opening in your trunk. you may need to play around with it a bit to see what the biggest practical box will be

i found a sick hookup on kinetik's if you need

and just for reference, i had a 99 ES300. Was my first car with first ever system. By it's final evolution it had 3 12" JLw6's (the old kind) part of the time, then 3 MA Audio MAW612's running of of a fosgate 1100@2. These were each in about 1 cubic foot sealed, and it got just about as loud as i would ever want to listen to on a daily basis (most people didn't like it and it made your ears tickle) The 2 12" BL's will be much louder than that. Twice, i was driving and all the sudden it got quiet and sounded like crap because the trunk had opened. I don't care what anyone say about that not being possible, it happened.

thank you for the compliment on the car, i am trying to get 22s my friend is trying to sell haha....anyways do you think 2 15s would be just as good as 2 12s, and if i run the 2 15s at 1 ohm on a sundown 3000d, will that be good, or should i do like you said 2 1200d's on 2 12's? please let me know...thanks, and big 3 will be upgraded definitely and it looks like i will have extra space for another battery in the trunk The only reason that i didn't recommend the 15's is just that they require significantly more airspace than the equivalent 12" subwoofer, generally speaking. I have a feeling what you have in mind is a setup that gets as loud as possible without sounding like complete a$$, so typically you would want a ported enclosure for that. After compensating for the materials, sub and port displacement, etc. you would be surprised by how little airspace you might have. IMO you would probably rather have 12's with enough room to really pound and get low than 15's that are a little choked up. To give you an example, i just ran through a rough dimension of 40w x 16h x 20d which would probably even be a little tricky to fit through the opening in the trunk, with a 14.5 x 5" port (72.5 sq in) and not even factoring in the woofer displacement which would probably be a total of about .3, you are looking a 4.68 cubic feet, around 4.3x after the woofers are in and all is said and done. That is good for most 12"s but lacking for a lot of the 15"s. I would give that setup a shot, i think you will be pleasantly surprised and if for some reason you are not, you always have the option of adding one more, or selling them. Woofers like FI's hold their value pretty well

i would get two 12" BL's, put them in around 5 cubes tuned to the low 30's, and 2 sae 1200d's. start off by doing the "big 3" upgrade with 1/0 gauge, and adding a single additional battery in the trunk like a yellow top or a kinetik 1800 or something. get some sound deadener, enough to do the whole trunk and a few strategically placed sections of the front for starters. if you decide that you need more, which i doubt, you can easily buy one more sub and amp this way. also you can see how you are doing for current with the stock alternator before going too crazy Nice car BTW

great setup! yeah, i'm from NY, hopefully i'll make it out to some shows up towards you next season. Have a lot of work to get done in the car by then. I wish i had more room to work with in my trunk

315 tq is no joke, and i would imagine it responds well to mods

That is actually incorrect. Regulated power supplies routinely double rated power for every halve in impedence. What regulated power supplies do is provide a constant output no matter what the input voltage is. So that JL 1000/1 is going to put out 1000 watts no matter if your car's voltage is at 14, 12, 10, etc. It will just pull more current when the voltage is low to keep the output power the same. An unregulated power supply, on the other hand, changes output power in relation to input voltage. So that memphis may put out 900 watts at 10 volts, 950 at 12 volts, and 1000 at 14 volts. I stand corrected then

with ample power, even in a small sealed enclosure, all of those will be pretty loud i'm sure. if you are planning on doing SPL comps i would say otherwise, but for a DD system thats sounds good on a variety of music and gets plenty loud you should be fine with any of those drivers in a sealed setup

any reason that you are choosing either one of them? i've done installs with both and i would say the JL has a VERY SLIGHT edge in performance, but the memphis is a nice small amp and very good overall, if it's the same model that i speak of. Still, there are many competitive 1kw monoblocks on the market right now in that price range or for less EDIT, the JL does have a regulated power supply, so it will provide rated power to a wide range of VC configurations, the memphis is rated at 1 ohm i believe. So if you need to power a 1 ohm final load get the memphis because i have heard that the JL doesn't like 1 ohm. If it is 1.5 or above, go for the JL

actually from what i just read, they seem to be just as unreliable as the 3sixty, and the user can only adjust a 3 band parametric eq? I'm looking for a bit more flexibility

With a pretty significant build on the horizon now steering towards higher end equipment, i still am not ready to part with my factory head unit unless it becomes an absolute must. I prefer the OE look and like the fact that my navi and bluetooth are integrated in the setup now, although i know that with a little tweaking i could likely make them work with something different, if needs be. On the G35 w/ the Bose system, all the processing is done at the actual factory amp. The leads running from the factory receiver are low level already and many people prefer the results with the RCA cables spliced/soldered into those leads over using an LOC. I myself initially had used a converter and was receiving a peak signal of about .3 volts with it set to the max position. In the future, i will either run the rca's directly to the leads from the receiver or purchase a decent quality "active" loc to bump up the output a bit, although i guess i would prefer to eliminate another piece of equipment from the chain if possible. This leads me begin my search for the ideal processor. For the money and convenience i am really leaning towards the 3sixty. I like the fact that speaker level inputs are provided if i find that necessary, and for the amount of features they an be had on the cheap. Everyone seems to rave about the alpine H701 though. I guess my main questions would be: Are they THAT great where it would be worth getting one over the 3sixty, even though i would need to buy the C701 as well to control it in my case? Would the results be much worse than using it with a matching alpine head unit? Also, would any of you say to just say screw it and replace my factory unit? I am a n00b when it comes to outboard processing in cars so i would appreciate some of you guys with more SQ experience chiming in and letting me know what/what not to do. I have been holding off on doing a SERIOUS stereo upgrade cause i want to take the time to do it right, deaden everything up, make sure i can provide the current, and proper signal for good results. Thanks in advance

actually just saw the 650, it may be my best bet. I hadn'y read about the balnced input issue with the 3sixty but if that IS the case it would suck so maybe the 650 will be better choice. I also like the remote control for setup

more info?

I'll try to get some from him next time i see him, that is from a thread over on CA that someone else posted from a show. It's a 94, with 24" DUB spinners, suede interior, and a bunch of other stuff. That setup replaced 2 13w7's and 2 zapco 9.0's, which were doing like 151 in their last incarnation iirc

for the amps i would go with 3 of the refurb rockford T3002's that are floating around ebay for like 140/each. for the subs, if you are looking to go small but get reasonably loud and keep it in that price range, maybe a pair of the sundown E8's would be nice

I'm not gonna lie...i would take the Sundowns over the MA without any doubt in my mind, but MA does make some strong amps. The main problem is that the are current hogs. My friend has 4 of the HK4000's. He is running a pair strapped to each of his RE MT12's, no crazy tuning or huge box, matter of fact i think he has 5 cubes or less. He does 156's on the new TL all day long in the 4runnerand still sounds decent. in the pic he has the optima's that are pretty much there cause they were from his old setup, but he is actually running 4 16volt turbostarts to the MA's

yup, originally the door panels had the mids and midbass both sealed with an enclosure made of 1/4 inch birch ply and expanding foam. I'm modifying the enclosure to fit on my doors without hacking them up so i will leave the sealed portion for the midrange in place and will run the 8" IB as per your suggestion in my other thread and numerous other info i have seen recently. That being said, i am really leaning towards the 3sixty.2 simply for the fact that it seems capable of what i want and can be had for not much more than the audiocontrol lc6 i was considering as a lineout converter anyway. at that price, if it works well then great, and if not i'm not going to be super disappointed. People seem to have mixed results with them from what i have seen, but i am willing to take the gamble for about 200 bucks

looks great, can't wait to see what she hits

you just have to remove Q240 from the circuit board. the 1000 does not have compression feature so you don't need to press the switch

For now, I will start with the seas prestige textile domes, whatever decent 3 inch mids i can find and either the Peerless SLS or Dayton Reference in 8" for midbass. I don't think i will make the jump to 4 inch mids even though they are alot easier to come by, cause i may upgrade to the Legatia Pro's down the road and don't want to cut the door larger than it needs to be for their 3.4" mid. I'll probably cross over around 200-250 and somewhere in the neighborhood of 2500 on the high end, for starters, and then play around with it. the door panels that i have actually have the midrange and the midbass right next to each other, maybe two inches away. Perhaps those would be the best to share the T.A. settings. I really liked the DEQ-230 that i had in my BMW, wish i had never sold it. That combined with an audiocontrol 4xs would make me very happy

If anything just go with a lighter shade in the front. I like the car, what motor is that? i am used to just seeing the naturally aspirated 6 cyl and the 4.6 in these, never knew that the "supercoupe" was actually supercharged, although i do know a guy with a "turbocoupe" and that has the turbo 2.3 that was in the mustang SVO

From my understanding, the output of the stock Clarion receiver on the G35 is pretty damn flat, with some attenuation of the higher frequency range past 24-25ish on the volume, which i never reach anyways. I am running 3 way active in the front, i know that the 3sixty doesn't really have provisions for that so i had already planned on making sure that the 4 channel that i use for my midrange and tweeters has the crossovers to compensate for that. I know that that will eliminate the ability for time-alignment, but on every stereo that i have heard with and without back to back, i preferred the sound without it anyway. So basically i guess that i am just looking for a good EQ and X-over

As a few of you may know, i brought my car to a auto customization shop last week to have an interior swap done. I saw the advertisement on our local G35 forums, the owner was looking for a stock interior in black for an 05-07 coupe and he would give the other party his custom two tone suede interior, with glassed door panels for 3 way comps, full trunk made w/ amp rack for 2 12's, etc. I was the first person to respond to the ad, so we made arrangements for me to go there the following day. i arrived at his location, over a hundred miles from my home, at around noon. I offered to help but they said they wanted to have their guys do it to ensure everything was done properly. After about 2 hours of waiting the first installer came to me and said that the rear deck couldn't be installed in my car because on the (shop owners) other car, the metal needed to be trimmed out. I politely told them not to worry about it, that i would modify it to fit my car when i got home. an hour later, another installer came to me to tell me that the door panels would not fit because where they had sealed them off with expanding foam and 1/4 inch ply, the actual metal in the door would need to be cut. again, i told them not to worry, i will tweak them to fit my car when i get home around this time i noticed that my seats had the memory function, and his did not. i called a fried with experience swapping different seats into these cars and was told that the only proper way to do this was to swap the seatback and cushion from one frame to the other. The electrical workings were different for the different years. they swapped the parts over on the passenger seat but as it came time to wrap up the job it was getting cold and dark so i guess they didn't bother on the drivers side. they were putzing around trying to figure out why the seat didn't get power. I showed him where the fusebox was cause he didn't realize that there was another one behind the battery :/ and i went inside to warm up while they fooled around with things trying to get it to work. a little while later they came in and started grabbing the extra parts to put in my car, said all they had to do was make a slight modification and it was fine. as i went to leave i noticed the interior lights were not working and figured that it was a blown fuse or something left unplugged about half a mile up the road i stopped because there was a vibration on the front tire that was BAD. it ended up being a piece of dynamat stuck to the tire. i also noticed the hood wasn't shut on one side, due to the fact that he left the fuse box cover off and on top of the engine :/ as i left, i noticed that the VDC, slip, and other lights in the cluster were all illuminated, and that also the tach and speedo were not working. shut the car off quick at a light and restarted and it was still the same. i drove for about 30 mins towards home, with all the electronics still acting funny, and stopped at a dunkin donuts to use bathroom and get coffee. went to get back in the car, it won't start. first it caught for a sec, then just cranking. infiniti roadside assistance came through, and i had to get a ride home (60 miles) in the middle of the night now the dealer took a look at the car, and at his slight modification (jumpers to power the seat, woohoo) and of course denied warranty coverage, so that leaves me stuck with a 1350 dollar estimated repair The guy who owns the shop that did the shoddy work of coure is denying it to the death, saying that the dealer is bullchitting me, there is no way he could have messed anything up, etc. the dealer is saying that where he tapped into the wiring, he fed back power into the body control module, and shorted it out. makes sense to me. I politely explained to the shop owner that my car was running fine when i went in, and left broken, so he is at fault. So anyway, when i (hopefully) get my car back in the next few days i have to return to him to swap the seat frames which we already agreed to. I was planning to present him with the bill and ask him to reimburse me for the repairs that he is documented as the cause of, with pics. He will probably refuse, and i will either have to ask him for his insurance info, or take him to small claims for. I was thinking though, he has some used equipment that i would be interested in. The car originally had the DLS ultimate iridium 8.3i set in the doors, so i know he has those and figure since the street price seems to be about 700 used and he probably paid less cause he owns a shop that might be an option. He also has these PPI DCX12 subs that he offered to me for 250 for the pair. I was thinking of telling him if he gives me the 3 way set and subwoofer that we can call it even, i would imagine that he paid less than a grand for all of it and i know that probably 800-1000 is the street price, so it would be cheaper for him than paying out of pocket. Should i do this, or does it make me look like some kind of scam artist if i offer to settle for merchandise?

The "yo" actually gave enough away. haha i needed to put it there, couldn't help myself