manbeer

i use 8 gauge cable for stiffening ribs, works like a charm

I still have a soft spot for the Diamond Audio M6 and Hex, make sure you get the silk dome though, the aluminum is too bright. Also, i can't say that i have personally heard them, but i know MB quart just revamped their lineup and alot of them have inverted metal domes, kinda like the DLS, and i've heard they are really good now

ahhh i always metered drop for the car and not for the amp

I believe they are 110 amps

up front, at the battery

IIRC, they overall build quality went downhill sometime around the release of the Xenon amps. Awesome amps but had a few issues. This was coincidently around the time they started building overseas. They are still good, probably better then 80 percent of the companies out there, but the old stuff was AWESOME. The RSD's are supposed to be pretty decent for the money, so if you can get a deal on them i would say go for it, they are probably comparable to if not slightly better then the brutus

i just tested the voltage from the rca's leading from the LOC with a couple sine wave sweeps and output level maxed and got a max reading of .297 volts. So i guess having my gain on the amp just about all the way up is just about right.

These the ones you are thinking of? the ones i was referring to are a paper cone with a beefy cast frame, nice size mags. probably weighed 20-25 lbs, and had an older looking logo but also said "1000 watts." I'm not positive but it MAY have also had a triple roll style paper surround, basically looked like a beefier version of what was in my JBL 4311 monitors, but black

Unless a song is unusually quiet or loud, on 90% of music i do 23-24 out of 32. To be honest, i am really surprised that i'm not getting a much worse drop cause when i was reading about this amp everyone was talking about how much of a current hog it was, and it calls for 150 amp fuse, which makes me think that i am not pushing it to full potential

everytime i see an update to this thread it's like christmas

i was actually looking into a couple 600's just to keep the weight down in my car. every pound counts i already have an SP800 so maybe i will just install that, though

i use this kind of terminal, just like the clean look and i'm sure they conduct just fine. plus i had a bunch left over from old installs where i used to buy caps that came with these for free and just give customers the cheap terminals and keep these

you never wanna skimp on the ground, i made that mistake with the first stereo i ever had and for about 6 months the amp would shut off intermittently. eventually i replaced it thinking something was wrong and thats when i found it was just a bad ground. right now, for my 1000 watt monoblock i have a 1/0 ground in the trunk, mounted under another 1/0 that runs to another solid point under my back seat and then to an additional 4 gauge running from there to my firewall next to the battery where it grounds, which is attached with 1/0 to the firewall

Stumbled upon this website and it was kind of a throwback to the "good old days" for me. I figured a few of you would appreciate it: http://www.fortunecity.com/skyscraper/black/438/subs.html

ok that sounds like the ones i was thinking of but it's been a while, they definitely were before the power series, i remember when those came out, and i also remember the 5 ohm power series they had out for a short period. these ones had large flat spokes on the basket, probably 6. i wonder if i still have it lying around. I was 4 ohm SVC iirc and pretty heavy

ahhhh were these the ones with the paper cone and 4 spoke basket that had the JBL logo on the dust caps and said "1000 Watts" next to it? I actually picked up used a pair for a friends install years back (for about 300 bucks in 02 or 03) and i know i used one, but i may still have the other somewhere. now i'm gonna have to check in storage or something

Some good deals going around right now on the Rockford Power series refurbs on ebay, i believe the T3002 will put down around 6-700 rms if not more bridged @ 2 ohms and only costs 170 plus ship. If you are looking for a decent set of cheap coaxials check out kicker, for a sub on a budget a type R is better then a W1 and you will probably be happy with it and they perform well in very small enclosure so good for limited space in a truck. Head unit is up to you.

This is what i would do: Find a single item to buy through Crutchfield. Probably a headunit is your best bet cause even though they are overpriced they give you EVERYTHING you need to install it. When they send you the stuff, whatever it maybe be...speakers, amp, receiver, etc they give you a little booklet that tells you pretty much all you need to know to install basic stereo components. this way you aren't running back and forth to the computer, Make you crutchfield purchase first and get that little book, read it cover to cover a couple times and any questions that you have, come back here and ask. Read this before ordering all your wiring, etc and you will most likely end up with what you need to do the install and not have to take 7 trips to best buy to pick up terminals, wire, etc. I'm pretty sure they still include this guide although its been a LONG time since i ordered car audio from them so ask

I know SGP Racing sells one for the 350z/G35 app that produces 220amps, i believe that they are built by excessive amperage iirc, so you might wanna check with him.

If you already have 1/0 coming from the front of the car and you are only running a few feet of 4awg, i'd say your straight, but some people may disagree. as far as the fuse, i would imagine sundown has a recommendation somewhere in the product literature. just remember that amps x volts equals watts, so figure 14 volts x 150 amps = 2100 watts, now assume that you will be at roughly 75 percent efficiency @ 1 ohm, maybe a hair less. So 75 percent of 2100 is 1575 watts. Unless you are burping or doing something that draws peak power from the amp, which most music won't do, i'd say 150 will be fine, maybe step it up a notch if you are competing. i'm tired and my math may be retarded right now. just wait for jake to answer

Thanks, that sounds like an easy fix, i'll try the cap thing next time i see him

Installed a 10" IDQv3 and JL 500/1 for a friend last week in 2008 G37, signal was provided from Scosche LOC connected to rear speaker leads, then 2 pairs or RCA's run to the front to a PAC Level control, 1 in, 1 out. At first we used the crappy JL signal sensing to turn it on, and after he would shut the car off especially when closing the door, he would get the loud feedback from the subwoofer, almost like it was just playing a test tone. I went and bypassed the LOC for him using a 3 foot rca, and hooked up the REM to a switched power lead on the car hoping that would help. While it isn't doing it when he shuts the door now, it's doing it sometimes when he changes songs on cd player he says. I had a problem like that a few years back but i can't remember for the life of me what i did to remedy it. Thanks in advance!!

If you are running one sub get D2 and wire parallel, if you want to achieve 1 ohm with a pair get d1's and series/parallel them

i think that is a perfect choice

any updates?