manbeer

since i can't pull up the info on the fi site, how would an amp rated at a solid 1krms @2 ohms/12.5 volt work on a loaded BL12, dual .7's in series? the amp is an MTX 81000d. I'm looking to get out of my 10 inch Rockford T2 even though it's been an impressive little sub, and get into something with a bit more cone area rather then just huge surround and i have seen someone selling them. I am thinking one sub should run nicely off that amp, opinions? I wanted the TC OEM 10's that are FS on here now, but they are both 4 ohm SVC and aren't that efficient so i would really need to change amps to benefit from the swap

SAZ-1000's can be strapped?

i moved and switched banks about a year ago. when i went to redo my paypal it wouldn't let me, stating that there was already an account open for this address or some BS. never pursued it, but it's getting to be a major PITA dealing with money orders and all. paypal customer service is notoriously bad though, not sure how helpful they will be, and you certainly should prepare to spend a while on hold gritting your teeth

its starting to get a bit louder in all my other cars i noticed a difference with the sub facing different directions and with the seat down. with this, the sub isn't really any louder in any one direction, which is strange for me. i have the wedge enclosure lying on its back facing up now, angled a little towards the back seat. It actually plays louder with the seats closed, i guess cause the trunk is acting as an isobaric enclosure? i think that it's hitting lows pretty loud but lacking a bit in the upper sub range. when i set chit on my center console it vibrates off though, not as crazy as alot of others that i have seen but i guess that would be an indication that it's fairly "loud" I get the feeling that in a ported box it will be a little monster

This thing was already in a box when i got it so i decided to just throw it in the car and see how it sounded. The enclosure it's in is pretty beefy but it's sealed, which i know wasn't recommended for that sub. Probably about .85 cubes if i had to guess. Anyway, wired in parallel for final 2 ohm load at the amp. Amp is MTX 81000d rated 1000wrms @ 12.5v and i believe it should be pushing around rated power. Anyway the excursion on this thing is SICK, kinda moves like the old eclipse TI,s. However, I am disappointed in it's output. I have had several single sub setups in different cars, ported and sealed, and honestly, it doesn't seem any louder then a kicker comp 12 w/ a 300 watt soundstream in the trunk of my lexus, or the MA Audio MAW612 in my other car running off similar power. It moves alot but doesn't seem to be much noise, just movement. On the other hand, it sounds pretty decent, and i expected it to sound like ass, so i guess thats a plus

seen it a couple of times during my visits to select products site. anyone try this stuff? i am trying to get a better idea of the result i would get with it. my car has this felty suede material in the center console and ashtray area. is it similar to that? i was thinking of using it to line the bottom of the amp rack and wanted to know if it is decent or i should just do real suede?

box is .9 cubes gross. I'm gonna throw something together in the next week or two probably around 1.75ish net with 40 square inches of port tuned to about 33hz. i wanna tune a little higher cause people seem to have good results with these around 40hz, but this is a temporary setup and i don't have a subsonic filter, so i'm gonna play it safe. I still think i have another good 3-5 db i can gain from it. i'm curious to see what a 12" icon can do given the same power and airspace

they discontinued the 10" for this model years, thats why it wasn't on the site. this is a link...and yeah- super inefficient. the only thing i don't get, and i've seen it happen in a couple of installs before, is that for the amount of air it's moving it doesn't seem to be making enough sound http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...US&p_status

yeah, it's definitely wired properly. i'm wondering just how much play time was on it and what kind of use it was subjected to cause after about 3 hours of hard use tonight it's finally starting to get a little better, the suspension is still stiff as hell though. i mean feels like it's never been used. the thing gets hot! the mounting ring was almost burning to the touch when i checked it at the end of the night. I am pretty sure the amp is putting out rated power, and i am pretty sure it'll be louder in a larger, ported enclosure. Just was a little disappointed cause i really expected it to at least "tickle" the ears a little like some of my old single sub setups, and it is lacking there. i DOES hit lows really nice for a 10 though, seems like the lower the note, the louder it gets. part of the problem before was that i has the xover set too low for this application. 50hz or so would be nice but where my factory stereo lacks midbass the roll off was too dramatic, so i bumped it up to around 70 or 80ish. tomorrow i'll pull it out and throw some polyfill in as well. I guess it could be the car as well though. One thing to note is that the lights barely dim right now so i am happy about that, thought it would be worse. The amp is really pretty decent too, all in all it's a good setup for daily use.

you'll be looking at 275% more cone (and not a bunch more cost), there will be more mid the tweet section will suffer slightly (I usually run one of those exact tweet per pair of 6.5's) they mesh flawlessly in my HT setup. Depending on height of the bus (I haven't been in one for years so I can't recall) I'd suggest mounting them on the ceiling downfiring in pairs with some sort of mesh grill.... less likly to get poked at, puked on, ect.... You're not as likly to damage someone's property if it is in a central location in plain sight.... just my 2 Cents though.... I had trouble with people poking at my dj speakers.. they'd stab them with straws spit at them ect.... drunk people suck when it's your stuff that's getting raped x1000000 ceiling....brilliant!

^the only thing about those is that in a noisy environment like that the midbass presence of a large diameter (12, 15 etc) full range driver works best. we used smaller satellites and sub at different venues and i don't think it'll have the "ooomph" that you are looking for in a loud bus at highway speeds even with the sub.

http://www.carvinguitars.com/speakers.php when i used to DJ we ran speakers from these guys, 4 x 15" 2 way cabinets, and 1 x 18" subwoofer with about 5kw of Crown power. killer stuff for the money and you don't pay much cause it's factory direct. i also had a set of 4 cerwin vega pa speakers, i believe they were called v-152 or something, those were great as well. that will be a acoustic challenge, good luck. you will most likely need alot of foam

I think bigjae still has a HC600 for sale

+1000000 The cap will not help you (not that they do much anyway) because the power can't even reach the cap efficiently. The 8 gauge wire is your problem. I guarantee you that wire and terminals will be your best upgrade. Do the big 3, and a run of 1/0 for the amp and you will eliminate much of your problem

well both amps are probably pretty close in terms of efficeincy but i would say the orion may make slightly more power at .5, but make alot more heat and draw more current so i'd go with the directed. it's probably the more reliable route

eeeehhh sorry i was thinking of the new "D2400" not the old "2400d" i forgot about those. The new one is 1200 RMS at 1 ohm and fused for 120 amps i believe (the newer curved heatsink model) so i stand corrected. reading > me

This one is easy. the Directed amps are named reflecting maximum power, not rms, so your 2400 is really only 1200 RMS. The orion puts down 1700 @ 2ohms, the directed is rated at 1200 @ 1 ohm or 400 at 4 ohms, so at 2 it's probably around 8-900. It is literally only half as powerful. so even at 2 ohms the orion > directed. The directed is not even comparable

Doing a temporary install in the G35 coupe and i am trying to figure out which will work out the best in given space. As some of you know the trunk is extremely small. So far as i know, nobody has ever installed a 15 in there and 10's are about the most that will fit without pulling out the spare tire, tools etc. which i really don't give a damn about anyway So the amp running them will be an MTX 81000d. Rated 1000rms @ 1ohm, 12.5 V so figure on a maximum of 1000-1100 rms real world output Options are as follows: 1) Rockford T210d2 - Box can be about 1.8-1.9 net, with around 40 sq inches of port tuned to about 35hz 2) Adire Brahma 15" - 2.0-2.3 cubes net, sealed 3) Rockford HX2 12's x 2, Sealed @ 1.0 cubes net per sub all would be wired at 1 ohm. for a daily driver which can't sound like complete ass but setup mainly for SPL without tons of airspace or crazy high tuning, to br as loud as possible. which route to take? thanks

going to be adding an RE SX-12 to that list now. I just realized that the rms figure was at 2 ohms, so while i probably can get away running at 1, i'd prefer not to with stock electrical system. the SX12 in 2 cubes tuned to 33ish vs the brahma sealed which do you think will give the most oooomph?

Bump for videos...and somewhere down the line, if you happen to have an extra prototype kicking around, i'd be glad to purchase it and abuse test for you. i drive 50,000 miles a year so i would spend as much time in a few months with it as most people spend in a year

1. How old are you? 24 2. When did you get into car audio? started reading crutchfield cover to cover at 8, started building stereos at 13 3. How did you first get into car audio? my father was recording engineer so we always had nice stereo equip. around 4. Whats your favorite color? don't have one 5. Male or female? Male 6. Your first Car? 99 Lexus ES300 8. How did you find out about this site? not sure, i'd been lurking a while and finally decided to sign up 9. What was your first system?Soundstream SPL 12/ 1.25 cubes sealed/Soundstream Reference 300, stock nakamichi hu 11. Were do you live? NY 12. Whats you favorite car audio brand? I'm an old school guy so old RF and Soundstream, etc are my true love, 15. Who is our hero in the car audio industry? Alma Gates cause she is a retired school teacher and still rocks 16. Whats your dream system? old school, original SS reference, Eclipse 9122, premier DEX-P1r,diamond comps(etons) 17. Whats your dream car? Ferrari F430, 911 GT3 18. Whats the fastest car you have driven/ridden in? 630 HP Cobra Replica, 550 HP turbo BMW M3, Carrera GT 19. Were do you buy most of your car audio products? Online, or from crackheads 20. What is your job? I build/rent tiki bars for catered events and plan tropical parties/luau/pigroast 21. Whats your favorite saying? 24. Whats your favorite brand of cars? Porsche, BMW, Ferrari 25. What do you like better, cars, vans, trucks, or suv's? Cars 29. Whats is the most recent thing you have purchased? Lightweight Flywheel, JWT Clutch (holds 550+ HP) 31. Who do you think is the most knowledgeable person on SSA? Their are actually quite a few so i couldn't say 32. What is your personal best on the TL? and with what equipment? 143.1, MA Synergy, Rf1100.2, Big box, Hatchback 33. SQ or SPL? why? SQ if it's a car i have to live with every day, but to compete probably SPL

agreed, go for a good 3 way active setup. I haven't tried enough tweeters/mids to give you a good recommendation, but shopping wisely you can probably get a good set of 8's, 5 1/4's and tweeters, plus a decent used 6 channel, or 4 and 2 channel amps for about the same cost as your 4 sets of coaxials and one component set

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way) I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little

congratulations on the new venture The guys who build those things are barely a step up from a chop shop. i had a friend in the business a while back and he was telling me the chit was always an electrical nightmare, he'd get brand new cars and send them out and get them back with the idiot lights lit up like an xmas tree. then you get all the people throughout the years of ownership who have their own people do the work and it can be a major PITA to figure out what the hell is going on. might wanna remove as much of the wiring as possible, label what you know and start from scratch, so down the road if you have a problem it'll be much quicker to retrace YOUR work

ohhhh i got ya! what about that robot underground place? i think he still has a bunch of adire soft parts laying around. No matter what, i think i wanna hang onto that as its a great, fairly rare sub and might be handy in an old school build down the road Still waiting on the Xcon, but i think that once i have a little more cash laying around i will pick up an Icon or two in the interim. Do you expect box specs to be similar on the new sub?