manbeer

btt. after seeing accordman's videos and pics of that single 12" install i am kinda tempted to do a single 12" off an SAZ-1500d. how do you think output would be in comparison to dual 10's in the same size enclosure?

Hi everyone, i started to describe my plans in the noob section but i figured i would bring it over here so it would get some more attention and i could begin ordering some parts. The car is an '07 G35 coupe, and i am looking for a system that can get reasonably loud, sound good soing it, and add the least amount of weight as i don't wanna kill the weight distribution on the car. I was originally looking at the FI Q's but i decided that i wanna go with the Icons instead. There were a few different plans i had as far as enclosures, but i think that having them in a conventional style mdf box close to the rear seat would be best since there would be less weight hanging past the rear axle. As far as power i was planning on running a Sundown SAZ-1500 or US Amps MD3(about 2kw @ 1ohm) 1/0 gauge KnuKonceptz Wire and a Batcap 800. I am working with roughly 33w x 13d x 13h so figure a bit under 3 cubes and would prob tune somewhere in the low 30's. I will remove the stock bose 6x9's in the rear deck to get some air flowing through also. My goal would be to get into the low 140's if possible without tuning crazy high. I doubt i will be able to do that sealed, but what about 2x10's or 1x12 ported? what would you go with and is there anything i should be looking at besides the icons? remember i am trying to keep the weight down, so woofers that are 75lbs are out of the question, i am thinking that 1 12" might be my best bet? A box that size with a 12" icon might be like 60-70lbs, the SAZ-1500 should push it nice and i could probably touch 140's depending on the right setup? I know this is a dumb question, but i have always loved type r's in the past as a good all around sub. how are the icon's in comparison? Thanks to all for any input!

am i correct in assuming that a 3000d running @ 2ohms would draw the same or less current then a 1500d @ 1ohm while providing the same or greater amount of power?

great deal! is that the basket that was used on the original soundstream exacts?

what size box do you have it in and how does it sound for metal? my best friend is really into lamb of god/in flames/36 crazyfist type of stuff and his birthday is coming up, wanted to get him something for his car. maybe these would be worth looking into?

Welcome, i am from NY also, but way out on LI. You should post on some pics of the R/T, thats a sick truck...always wanted one

well obviously i would prefer a sundown over a hifonics. it's just that for the same roughly the same price, i could buy the hifonics and run it at 4 ohms rather than 1 ohm, have a lower THD and higher damping factor as a result, and be running closer to peak efficiency. then if i DID decide to change things up a bit down the road i'd have the extra potential there as well. if it's THAT bad i'll skip it though

I am looking for an amp to run a pair of icons, would need to put out between 1500-2200 @ 1 or 2 or 4 ohms depending on which VC configuration. these are my choices so far 1) Sundown SAZ-1500d @ 1ohm 2) US Amps Merlin MD3 (2000w) @ 1 ohm 3) Hifonics Colossus @ 4 ohms bridged (2000w) 2) 2x Kicker ZX1000 now i will be running an HC1400 under the hood, with a Batcap 800 in the trunk(next best thing to a battery cause i am trying to keep it somewhat light), 1/0 throughout, Big 3, 10 additional 4amg grounds on chassis. the car only has a 110 amp alt. stock, so i am looking for the most efficient amp possible. From what i remember the kickers seem to fall on the less efficient side of things? the sundown and the merling i know are both pretty good, and the hifonics is probably ok, not great. but i could run the hifonics at 4 ohms and get the power i need, which might make it more efficient then the others run at 1 ohm, correct?

the xxv series is supposed to be a very good amp. it's not a brutus we're talking about, no chrome or bells & whistles but it does have the blue logo : / i owned a goliath.... im not dogin the small enty levels... i run large amps. i take it you didn't like the goliath then?

the xxv series is supposed to be a very good amp. it's not a brutus we're talking about, no chrome or bells & whistles but it does have the blue logo : /

what amp are those test from???? those were from the sundown saz-1500d

I was thinking that since efficiency usually falls of when the impedence is decreased that the hifonics might be more efficient, since it's the only one i could run at 4 ohms For example the sundown efficiency with different loads 1 amp, single 1000ca everstart maxx, factory alt 4 ohm nominal = 518 watts @ 88% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 14.0v) 2 ohm nominal = 948 watts @ 85% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 13.6v) 1 ohm nominal = 1510 watts @ 78% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 12.4 volts .5 ohm nominal = 1615 watts @ 72% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.8v) .35 ohm nominal = 1748 watts @ 67% efficiency (voltage fell from 14.3v, to 11.4v) so i guess what i wanna know is if the hifonics would really draw that much more current, if any, when run with a 4 ohm load. it should be at it's peak efficiency where the others would be running at their middle area. i WOULD go with an SAZ-3000 but i can get a good deal on the hifonics and don't really wanna drop too much on the amp if i don't have to

something like this should be suffecient http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-200-Amp-Batter...1QQcmdZViewItem

Winner winner chicken dinner . IF you hear a difference, somebody did a half ass job It seemed like maybe they didn't apply enough deadening/damping material, sounded a little like when i kick the side of my bathtub.

I believe that what happens w/o an isolator is that the two batteries basically fight each other, basically current goes back and forth between the two trying to even out, and it cannot, even if the two batteries were the same exact model. As this happens gradually current is lost due to heat, resistance, w/e and the batteries die. As long as the car doesn't sit for more then a day you will probably be ok but i would add an isolator asap because batteries are more expensive then a basic isolator and pretty soon you will be buying both if you let it run like this for too long

yeah, i was going to but i dunno, fiberglass has a "different" sound to me. i've been in a bunch of cars with fibergas enclosures and i have never really like the sound, but maybe it had nothing to do with the material

What would the weight difference be on a 4x8 sheet? I am trying to keep the rear as light as possible, so if i can save 10-15 lbs on the setup, 2.5-3 cu ft box and spare tire amp rack the cost difference might be worth it

Koopsta Knicca - No action (dumb song but slams HARD!) def worth trying

sorry, didn't see your post. i WAS thinking that since i am trying to keep it on the small/light side of things i should go aeroport. now the question is do i put them on the baffle or to the side?

good call, i didn't think about that but it makes alot of sense. so would you recommend firing from the side or from the baffle pointed towards the rear? also, how would having a trim panel in front affect the sound? i just wanna make a false face for it to make it look less like just a box and more like a clean custom install. should i use aeroports or a slot? i've made a bunch of ported boxes in the past and always done slot ports.

also if i port should i go traditional slot port on the baffle or side, or instead...use two aeroports firing directly into the holes in my rear deck, and protruding past the top of the box to be level with the shelf?

is an SAZ-1500 enough for the 2 10's? i always liked running more power as opposed to less and i feel like 1500rms is a lil too much for 1 but a lil too small for 2. opinions?

thank everyone! my main objective here is to keep things as lightweight as possible. for that reason i think a ported enclosure facing back with a single 10 or 12 is the best bet. this way less of the weight is hanging past the rear axle and seriously screwing up my weight distribution. probably will do somewhere in the area of 1.2 cubes tunes to about 32hz on the 10, or about 1.5 cubes on the 12. what kind of power can these things run when properly set up with an SSF in place? can i run a SAZ-1500 to a single driver? I've always been a big fan of less woofers and more power to achieve results. also, would anyone here recommend 2 10's w/ .75 cubes sealed per sub over the ported setup?

anyone have some advice for me on what i should/shouldn't be doing on the install? i am torn between a conventional ported box facing rear, fiberglassing a couple sealed boxes to go in the rear corners, or building a floor enclosure. i have the factory bose 6x9's in the rear deck so i was gonna remove them to get the air flowing into a little better?