manbeer

Ordering today. I will also order the SLS and seas neos today. The car broke down again last night so its at the dealer, then after it leaves there it will be going into the body shop in about 2 weeks. When i get it back i'll be adding deadener. I have 36sq ft alloted for the doors to start with and will be picking up some clay.

My temp. tweeter solution will be seas neo textiles, everything will be upgraded at the end of the season when i have the time to switch things up a little. Those should be fine to cross at 2500hz, 18db/oct right? i will be using 18db/octave slopes all around to start cause they are the easiest to do with the 4XS So i am thinking initial x-overs will be 40-250 on the SLS, 250-2500on the RS100's and 2500+ on the neos. That sound like a good starting point?

Well the RS100's would end up being under 50 dollars a pair, the specs look good, and since i order from parts express at least twice a month they probably wouldn't add more than a couple bucks to the shipping. How about going with them? They are cheap enough where i don't really care too much, should have no problem crossing over low enough for the SLS's (i am thinking of doing 250hz 3rd order as the low pass on them to start) plus they have the phase plug which (i may have been misguided on this) i was always under the impression helped with off axis response http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=295-378

So after a bit more looking around i realized i can fit most normal 4" cones in there, but only have about a half liter of space. Would it greatly affect the response being that i will likely not be playing them below ~250hz anyway? I would think the bottom end is where it would really start to suffer. If thats the case maybe a set of 4" dayton ref's for now?

End of summer to early fall, i just want to be able to bring it to a couple shows without having empty holes in the doors. I was also looking at the HAT L3's since they would be just about a perfect fit, but once again i keep coming back to the domes for the off axis response and the fact that they are chambered which would make this a bit easier...they aren't in a common airspace with the midbass, but at the same time there isn't a whole lot of room behind them before you run into the inner door, where on the midbass side there is obviously a hole there

MY POS '07 G35 broke down on me AGAIN last night, leaving me stranded on a packed highway with a shoulder that was narrower than the car. Inifiniti roadside is failsauce and started to send a tow truck to my house, until i called them 20 mins later to ask why they didn't need my location After another 20 mins of running them running around back and forth they said they couldn't send a driver cause i was on a parkway where only one company can tow I started screaming at the operator about how the car was the biggest piece of garbage ever, they were idiots, people were swerving around me to try not to hit and they just wasted almost an hour of my time leaving me in a precarious position and on top if that i was squeezing my dick so i didn't piss my pants but there was no room for me to get out of the car Anyway, long story short, tow guy that I called gets there, we go to gas station thinking it might be a bad sending unit and i was out of gas. not the case. had it towed to my "local dealer" still 60 miles from home At the end of the night i had to pay 380 for towing and 45 dollar tip on top of that. Now who knows whats wrong. I think the last dealer who replaced the IPDM (fuse/relay assy) due to water damage didn't cover it up right cause there were traces of corrosion and rust on and around all the fuses and relays I am SO angry right now I hate Nissan products, this and my maxima were the least reliable cars i ever owned out of more than a dozen. Going back to the germans after this

Maybe i WILL give those aura's a shot then. how is the off axis response of them? worst case scenario i can make a nice set of computer speakers if they don't work well in this app

100-120lbs each?

Ok, i am going to take your advice and get the SLS. As far as the midrange, i still may get the DLS IR3's and try to cover them or hack the grille since for like 180 dollars they seem to be pretty nice and should be able to cross over around ~350 with no major issues based on the info provided. Even if i get a few extras, i will most likely be running these off a Xenon 200.4, so i'm afraid that would make the Aura (i'm assuming the NS3 is what you were referring to) or the equivalent Hi-Vi B3N unhappy Specs from the site Size 2,5" ( 6,3 cm) with rear chamber Nom. power (RMS) 100 Watts RMS Maximum power 160 Watts Frequency range 250 Hz-8000 Hz Rec. frequency use for 400 Hz - 4500 Hz active crossover Use HP 18-24 dB slope /oct. Sensitivity 91 dB / W / m Resonanst freq. / Fs 280 Hz X-max +- 0,5 mm Magnet diameter 80 mm / 3,15

unfortunately- i just want to fill the holes so i can be ready for show season, and i will rework the doors and relocate the mids to the kicks and the tweets to the pillars this fall most likely. For now, the poor location is why i am kind of set on a dome though, as i think the off axis response would better lend itself to this app now i know this is nowhere near optimal, so i am just looking to make the best of whats available Are the SLS 8's really THAT much better of a midbass than the DLS and Daytons?

I'm going to be doing a build on an 07 350z over the next month or so for a member on here who doesn't post that often- consisting of DLS amps and front stage with an AA Havoc out back. Once i am able to spend some time i can give you exact measurements. I have the trunk mat on my living room floor right now and can measure that out if you want

I have exactly 3.75" inner diameter, 4.75 outer diameter. I need a dome cause it will be easier to use in my application without going TOO nuts to separate the chamber from that of the midbass. If necessary i can enlarge the holes by a bit but not much at all, maybe 1/4" the rest would be trimmed from the flange of the driver The DLS 3" dome would fit perfectly but unfortunately is butt ugly. The MB's and the RS52's seem to actually play lower than the comparable 3" domes from morel and Dyn. I am thinking that with some creative x-over work i COULD get them to blend but since i am a noob to active i think it may be better not to play on the edge there

Great review, i was going to try in an IB application at some point even thought that is far from it's optimal alignment, but you beat me to it. I am actually getting very good extension all the way down to the lowest of the lows in a 1.25 cubic foot sealed enclosure, like 30-31hz is where there is a noticable roll off. This week i will be getting the ported box ready, 1.9 cubes net @ 32hz w/40 square inches of port

i would do 6 runs to be on the safe side

i will once again have SO much more power than i need. lol

I was curious to see if you guys are planning on offering a D2 or better yet a 4 ohm SVC version down the road? I can't help but think how many small to midsized 2 channel amps would be perfectly suited for this woofer if it was 4 ohms, or how well it could run, say, on the bridged rear channels of a moderately powerful 4 channel, or even 6 channel. The D4 happens to work well with the application that I am running, but i think a 4 ohm version might be just the right ticket for so many people...the guys who want to run it off a bridged pair of channels, the guys with an extra 2 channel rather than a monoblock to run their lows, or a trio run in parallel to an SAE 1200

this guy sounds like a moron. it's a shame people with below average IQ's get their hands on nice gear. smh i DO still really like the D6's though. There was a really good special going on up until last week i found on the old models M6 MK2 where you could pick up a pair for 190 shipped. I almost bought one just for the hell of it

JL recones are obscenely expensive. My friend was trying to get his done because the cone itself got a dent in it and i believe it was nearly 400 dollars. That was a W7, but i would imagine the W6 would be right around the 200 dollar mark if not more after shipping. It seems JL prices their recones very close to the street/internet/unauthorized price of the actual sub

Yes, they fit into stock bulb locations and are basically plug & play. If you have a dual filament bulb that serves as high/low than you will need one of those setups...not sure if its offered here but they are usually a bit more $$$ And i just retrofitted a set of HID's into my moms old reflector headlamps for her- they really do make a difference. I prefer the 6000k or lower cause i feel like anything beyond that sacrifices visibility for "bling"

10w3 is a nice sounding driver that performs well in most areas. SSD would also sound nice, but get louder. additionally, it would probably require more power for you to benefit from it though

I'm trying not to post TOO much here because it is kind of a teaser/predecessor to the upcoming"real" thread but i just have to say that after 10 hours or so this thing is really waking up. I've been putting as much time as i can possibly stand playing Young Jeezy on it and tonight it was noticeably different than when i first tried it. Plus after literally HOURS on end at 300wrms or so the sub and amp are both at room temp lol I'm going to be looking into a suitable 500wrms AB amp for it in the very near future, perhaps a rubicon or reference 500

Been a couple days and the sites been down for me. I have already got about 10+ hours on it and it keeps getting better. Working on a new box build for her at the end of the week and i will have a thorough review and plenty of photo documentation. I am at a crossroads because i am giving her ~300 watts right now @ 8 ohms and defintely feel that she can take more but at 2 ohms i would be putting down WAY too much power. In fact, after an hour of hard play i pulled her out just to check on it was barely warm. I can tell that i am not yet approaching mech limits either. For the way i have this set up right now (very conservative) the output is VERY impressive in a sealed box One guy who runs a 10w6 and 500/1 was amazed when he heard mine, said it was much better than his setup

I'm about to go drop off/install a few of these big 3 kits i have been making for the G35 guys so this should give me a couple more hours of time on the road with some new CD's. I'm looking forward to it

Haha, ok i'll get a few up tomorrow. I left the camera out in the car You will be really happy with yours, i am shocked how well it performs out of the box and with low power. One thing i want to do is get a better amp to run it. The MTX 81000d i have it on really isn't "SQ" oriented, with a 2% THD @ rated power, lol. I am thinking of picking up a Zapco 500.1 to throw on it. I know the suspension is still stiff but with ~300ish from the MTX it doesn't seem to be anywhere near approaching mechanical limits. This is my first time in a while running so little power and honestly there is no discernible loss in output over the RF T2 10" i had in there is a sealed box before. Now i know it has the advantage in cone area but the RF was an SPL oriented driver and it was getting probably 1200 watts @ 2 ohms. So, no dimming lights now, comparable output, and much better sound is a good deal imo pics of that sweet car you have too She is still totally covered in road salt from the last snowstorm that hit us. You guys in AZ have it easy I'm realizing more and more every day that i need a beater. My uncle has an old base model Dodge Stealth that i could probably get for dirt cheap. I was thinking about it cause a hatchback would be nice

this looks fun. i am going to have to try this one day!