manbeer

I was really impressed by how flat and linear the ICONs were, and those were only 10's. On most songs where the really low notes start to drop off a bit on most 12's, the 10" Icons were just as loud as all the other frequencies and stayed composed while retaining the same tonality regardless of how loud they were playing. Lots of subs i have heard sound drastically different at different volume levels and can be hard to blend in well, the ICON stayed nice and consistent. I can only imagine the beasts that the 15's will be

Hmmm, i haven't been active for a while and just stumbled across this. May as well give it a shot 1) MTX 81000d @ 8 ohms (should be around 300-500 RMS 2) Been doing car audio for since i was 13 (11 yrs) 100+ installations 3) Affirmative 4) Would be glad to, already have 90 percent of the work done and a sealed enclosure for 12"s 1.25 ft gross. Will build a ported enclosure to suit for testing purposes 5) I listen to a wide variety of music, have a huge collection of CD's, over 80 gigs in the iTunes library, including playlists of tracks that are specifically compiled to highlight certain installs and setups i have worked with, ranging from classical, to showtunes, to jazz, rap, reggae, metal, classic rock, progressive, and everything in between 6) I would be happy to

You could build a kick ass active setup for that price, if not i like the DLS components a lot, a set of UP6i's would most likely make you very happy. I don't know much about the AQ's, the focals tend to be a bit bright and up front for my tastes, and the JL's sound pretty good but were even more laid back. I think the DLS is the perfect blend of the two. You should take a look at the Mpyre sets being blown out on ebay for 99 bucks with xovers. If you can get a nice low playing tweeter they would make for a great setup with some killer midbass

I am getting a blown RL-P 12 from a friend and plan on reconing it. I could send it in, but reconing is something that i have really wanted to try myself and i think that this is a good opportunity. I know that i can't but the parts directly from soundsplinter, but i would imagine there are a few options for parts. My question is, if i plan on running the single driver to my MTX 81000d, should i go for a D2 or D4 setup? At 4 ohms my amp is rated at 500rms @ 12.5 volts. At 2 ohms, it's 1000rms @ 12.5, and from what i have heard they were fairly underrated. so for the hell of it assuming i can give the woofer either 600 watts or 1200 watts ballpark, which should i go for? i am thinking of just getting the D4 and wiring it at 2 ohms, then being extra conservative on the gains. Also, do different parts change the power handling capabilities when reconing?

funky pups?

check again, the 3002 does WAY over rated power. something to the tune of 600+ rms @ 4 ohms bridged and around 850rms @ 2 ohms bridged I will tell you that it pushes the chit out of 2 10" RE SR's that i installed in my friends car, even in a box thats way too small for them it drops low nicely

Hells yes, can't beat it for the money... and if you decide to go bigger on subs and amp down the road you have a killer amp for component speakers!

plus i have heard a couple of people that went from Q's to BL's say that the Q is a little stronger in the real bottom end department. While it isn't really a confirmed fact, that would make me want the Q over the BL as a Daily sub, especially if i listened to techno (which would never happen anyway)

go with a D2 Q wired in series for a 4 ohm load, in 2-2.5 cubes ported, tuned for the low 30's it'll get reasonably loud and sound decent

looking good, should put down some pretty nice numbers with those subs. they rarely disappoint for the $$$

holy crap it works!

better throw on your flame suit, people on here don't really appreciate the whole "hear me before you see me" thing ...but yes, without a doubt you should have sound deadening. that is a big part of the difference between real sound systems and ghetto blaster hoopties. no matter how loud a car is, when it drives by rattling like a piece of turd i lol @ them

a single yard from the hardware store would be sufficient

no T/S yet, i'm assuming? how will they do in "smaller" enclosures vs. the icon?

my friend burps his on 8kw each

great deal right here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=293-612

It's been a busy couple of weeks so i haven't really been on much. I spent a lot of time working with a good friend on his FJ Cruiser install. This is the second "epic" install that he's done in the car, the first being scrapped for the additional weight it added and impracticality. The old setup weighed probably at least double what the new setup does, and the new system is much better sounding overall imo, so it was all gain and no real sacrifice. Originally the setup consisted of the following: Alpine IVA-W200 Alpine PXA-H701 Boston Acoustics Pro 60's in the front, Pro 50's in the rear 2x PG Xenon 1200.1;s PG Xenon 200.4 2x RE XXX12 (05 XBL2's) sealed Lots of deadener and wire NEW SETUP: same HU/Processor DLS UP6i's front and rear Alpine PDX 4.150 2x Alpine PDX 1.1000 2x SSA Icon 10d2 sealed We cumulatively put in probably close to 200 man hours on the total project, and the car already had a lot of sound deadening in it from before. Now probably has about 250 square feet. Last night we had the DLS's up and running, and i was blown away. I remember how fatiguing the bostons could be at higher volumes, and they seemed to be lacking in the midbass department. The DLS are a night and day improvement over them. The midbass is much more present and authoritative. The highs are much smoother and natural sounding. The sound is crisp and detailed without being overbearing, and they just seem to sound better the harder that they are pushed. The back seat of the FJ has a killer soundstage, with the woofers and tweets right next to you, about a foot below your head, and on axis The ICONS! I love these subs, always have since the first time i saw them. In action, they exceeded my expectations. The things are still new, and the suspension is stiff as hell. You can tell just from the way they are not even close to approaching X-max off 1kw each that they will really come alive over the next few weeks, too. The best words to describe them would have to be "accurate" and "punchy" My friend stated that he noticed small nuances on certain songs that he didn't hear with the XXX's. The response on them is very flat and even throughout the frequency range, which is crossed over now at 80hz, 18db/octave. They are an easy blend with the front stage, and after the half hour or so that we fooled around with them the amp was warm and the Icons showed no indications of being warm to the touch. Of the variety of music that we tested on they showed no preference, they just excelled at all. I simply can't say enough good about them. Great job Mark and Aaron, you definitely made me a believer Also i have to give an honorable mention to the PDX amps. I was a little skeptical based on the size and the whole "class d full range" design on the 4.150, but they are strong performers. The 4.150 definitely rocks those DLS components, and the 1000.1's perform every bit as well as any comparably rated 1kw monoblock thats 2x3 times the size. Sure, they aren't for everyone, with the tightly regulated power supply and all,but they prove their worth any time a minimal footprint is critical. It would be hard to fit any amp that could do 1kw @ 4 ohms into the space that all three of these could occupy. Oh yeah, the best part is that this entire review was with no eq'ing whatsoever

the size an weight was the main reason he switched. one thing that i notice is that the Xenon's seemed much more efficient, both these subs and the XXX's were D2's series wired, and the xenons doing rated power at 4 ohms vs. the PDX doing the same barely dimmed the lights at all. The alpines have them flickering pretty good. We're about to put an hc600 before each amp and hopefully that does the trick. All three PDX's are probably about the same size collectively as a single 1200.1 which is nice. The Icons are already starting to free up a bit. I also have to add that after a two hour drive with a few short stops in between, and most of the time the stereo playing at moderate to high volumes, we pulled out the subs to put some rope caulk around them cause there was an airleak and the subs were barely warm to the touch. you literally had to stick your finger in them to feel any heat. That was off 1kw, so i know that thermally that power rating was conservative. I'd really like to hear one on a nice A/B amp, like an old Reference 1000, or even a DLS A6

finally got to hear them for the first time tonight. here is a link to the thread for the system build, pic will be up soon: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=23227

Some of this was leftover in a subwoofer enclosure that came as part of my interior swap. 4 pairs of wire probably about 18 gauge braided, no outer jacket. i was wondering if it is something they did by hand at the shop or if i can buy a roll?

yes, it will make a difference

in my es300 there was already an opening there. definitely made a bit of a difference when it was open, not huge but noticable

Just got the car back and from what i can tell the dealer kinda screwed me on this. it was the guys work that caused me to be stranded in the first place, but it did not do any permanent damage to the car. the dealer tried at first to tell me that it did, and what it turned out had happened is that when the car died i pulled the cowl off over the IPDM (fusebox) to check everything and never put it back, and several days later, after they had supposedly already looked at it, it rained and ruined the module. so basically i paid 1200 buck out of pocket for something that should have been way cheaper. i think all that happened from the guys wiring is that it screwed up the immobilizer since the battery was left hooked up during the workm it just needed to be reset. i feel like the dealer should have at least been a little bit less negligent, since it was obvious that the cowl was missing if they actually LOOKED at the car

you best bet for an average 10 inch driver, not knowing displacement, is about .1 of a cubic foot, a couple hundredths of a cube deviation either way won't kill anything

So you did a 144.1 with the wrong eq settings and 800 watts. not bad at all!