manbeer

Does it need to be new? you could get a used SAE-1000 for a good price i am sure, and will be more than happy with that combo most likely. Other good amps in that price range new http://www.etronics.com/p-57952-massive-au...name=GoogleBase http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/2167 http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/7915 http://cgi.ebay.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Power...id=p3286.c0.m14

Icon FTW!

People that don't know what model any of the equipment is or any of the true technical specifications, and just base everything on the GIANT max power rating on the box or the actual item. "yo, i got two 1200 watt kenwood amps and 4 15" xplodes that are 800 watts, gonna get me 4 300 watt 6x9's and 4 150watt horns on the rear deck" it absolutely drives me BONKERS. i love busting their chops though

It's made of uranium isotopes

Nice to see that that's the kind of people we have on here!

just got to hold an Icon for the first time this afternoon. very nice! beefy lil 10 inch, i can wait to hear it my friend is going to be running two of them sealed each off an alpine PDX1000.1

Its at the dealer right now, waiting on parts. Hopefully it should be done in the next couple of days but at least i finally got a loaner car He know what is going on as i have called several times during this fiasco, and he knows the dealer is blaming the problem on his work, though he is trying to deny it. I will provide the bill, with written and photo documentation of his errors, and hope that he is willing to do at least something for me...especially when i was the one that told him that he NEEDED to switch the seatback and bottom cushion on to the other frame and that was the the only way that it would work properly. he did the one side and got lazy on the other

looks nice, but something about the front looks a little "pontiac-ish" Also i am not a huge fan of the smaller lincoln offerings, if i would buy something from them i would go big, and go V8

that seems pretty big, but i guess if you have enough port area, after all displacement you would end up with much less airspace. for my eventual pair of 10's i'll be starting with around 3.5 gross

That, or "nothing in life is free" would be applicable in this situation, lol

thanks, we will see what happens when i go up there this weak. even though this was a swap performed on his personal vehicle and mine, by himself and his employees, i would expect him to maintain the same professionalism as if i were a normal, paying customer

what kind of power would be needed?

looks great, nice clean install and great choice of products. let me ask you your thoughts on the KLM cable, how do you like it in terms of not only flexibility but performance as well?

I read the thread here and on the other forum, thats why i decided to give my opinion......... ok, just wanted to make sure you knew what happened as you will likely be greeted with suspicion by others, especially if you don't introduce yourself

Just saying that your posts seem like the previous sales tactics of dr. crankenstein, if you were to read the thread here you would understand...

oh yes, then there is the fact that on CA you list your location as Philadelphia, and here as NJ.

I just find it a little curious that you signed up for 2 different audio forums in the past day and on each one, your only post was about dr crankenstein products. no introduction, no other info on yourself but the bare minimum required by the site. it just gives the impression that you are either the same person as before that was banned, or affiliated with the same person.

oh wait, here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358452

i smell teh fishies how come your post on CA disappeared? i saw you on there a couple hours ago repping crankenstein and now it's gone which says something

oh ok, i was going to use a pair of them in the front door, as midbass speakers so for that they should be fine

I am trying to figure out the best way to accomplish my goals here while maintaining a reasonable budget. i will eventually go higher end, but for now i have other things i need to spend money on. With my original doors in place i was limited to a 6.5-7" midrange and tweeter. I was considering the Seas prestige textile domes for the high end, and the AA Poly's or the ID Oem's from the guy on CA.com that are like tweaked CX64 drivers. New setup was built around DLS Iridium 8.3's with a 8 inch midbass, 3 inch midrange, and 1.1" tweeter. the actual door panel has a sealed enclosure of expanding foam and 1/4" thin birch ply attached, but i will have to cut it apart and reshape with glass cause it won't fit onto my door unless i cut metal. So figuring i can do up to an 8" midbass, does it still make sense to go for the aforementioned drivers or should i take advantage of the full 8" and try to find something to make the most of that space? as far as the tweeter i will most likely still go with those Seas, and for the midrange i am undecided. i was actually thinking of just putting in a 7" and a planar tweeter where the old mid was, but it would be a poor location IMO. maybe i should try to find a matching seas 4" or something, or maybe i was thinking of peerless SLS 8" on the midbass, and peerless 4". i haven't had so many options to play with before so this is a whole new ballgame for me. I may even be able to fit a pair of e8s in the doors, but not sure how they would react to the either extremely small sealed area i could give them, or basically being mounted ib with the inside of the door as an enclosure Edit: here is a pic of the layout

the shop i was at recently who i traded interiors with had cut holes out in the doors and cut out the entire rear deck with a jigsaw, not cleanly at all but gaping, jagged holes. on their demo 2005 G35 that was a lease. You should see the atrocious subwoofer box they built. it's all unevenly put together with pieces of wood that are cut wrong and covered in silicone and gobs of fiberglass to cover it up. The thing would be sup-par even from an 8th grader, just that it's covered up in a nice trim panel that makes it look good. screws are crooked and not in all the way, its a mess. These guys consider themselves "finest in the industry" and i enjoyed my time talking to the people there who were spreading misinformation. "you can't only have speakers in the front, it won't sound right," "These subs are dual 2 ohm, they work with any monoblock amp," "you can't have clean sound with a factory head unit and line out converter no matter what" were a few of my favorites oh yeah... my car is currently sitting at the dealer awaiting a new body control module, cause they wouldn't let me help with the interior swap since they wanted "everything done right" after seeing what other people that are considered professional turn out, i realize more and more now how grossly i underestimated my installing abilities

what are peoples feelings on these vs. the daytons or sls? just curious cause i know of a person selling a new set for 90 shipped http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...product_id=3340

I used one of the Dayton reference 8in in my car for some midbass, it was in a .5 cube sealed box, it had great sq but couldnt seem to handle that much power (maybe 200 rms) so i couldnt turn it up too much. Today i just ordered 4 of the E8s from the presale($60 each). i hope one of those will work out better than the dayton( i think the dayton needs a bigger box to perform better) how in the heck much power are you wanting to send these things? 200+ is crazy. if a midbass can handle 200 watts I'd say it's doing exceptionally well. i was thinking the same, i'll be sending them about 150, and the mids and tweets about 80, off of a rockford T3002 and a T4004

you could get the 100.4 and wire 4 tweets per channel in parallel for a .75 ohm load or wire 2 pairs, each pair series connected, in parallel per channel. 3 ohm load