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Stephan

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Posts posted by Stephan

  1. Posted · Edited by Stephan

    Seems to be hard for me to find wiring diagrams for my setup. I have a single DVC 1 ohm sub, and a 2 ohm mono channel amp. Right now it's wired at .5 ohm and the amp or sub is cutting out at around 3/5 way up, not sure if it's the subs or the amp because the protect light does not come on, but it acts as if it goes into protect. I decided to wire to over 2 ohms.

    This would be wired from

    amp + to sub +

    amp - to sub -

    sub + to -

    for a 2 ohm load, or a 4 ohm? 2 right?

    Also, the amp has dual outputs, and i've read that I can wire up further by using both output terminals.

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  3. Posted

    Careful buddy.. your current attitude is not welcome here.

    Cross section and strand count are ultimately more important than color. Internal copper diameter is also a key factor. A lot of places use a thick outer jacket and measure off of that, so be careful on who you believe has thicker cable.

    Strand count helps with flexibility of the cable, but also gives a good measuring point when comparing to other cables.

    With you planning on extra alternators and massive electrical upgrades, "pretty" cable should be the least of your concerns.

    I was not the one at offense :) I agree, pretty cable should not the least of my concerns. That is why I am researching before buying. KK has different selections of wire.

    I appreciate the advice on how companies may rate wire. And that is the exact type of answers I am looking for about the two. Welding cable could be fine, but I still would rather keep the wiring all the same brand and coloring. It won't be seen much, but it's one of those thing's that would bother me regardless, just because I know it's there.

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  4. Posted

    Well look and name brand does matter to me. I gave 3 options, and read about welding cable ... not interested. I need opinions on what wire of the 3 is better, not what wire you feel is a waste of money.

    You win for making the most ignorant statement I've ever heard.

    That's awesome for me. You win for contribution the most useless replies to this forum. Now we are both winners!

    Would you like to explain why I am ignorant for asking if I should do 3 runs of 1/0 or 1 run of 3/0, and which of the two is prefered? There is cheaper wire offered by KnuKonceptz that is 1/0 as well for a dollar less a foot. As I stated previously, I really would rather KK all the way through because of the look and I am stuck on the brand, who knows why. The welding wire maybe less expensive than the KK wiring, but I would rather not use mismatched wiring for everything, SORRY for wanting to keep it clean.

    A more helpful statement would be something to the effect of:

    - 1 run of 000 will save you money because you will only need 1 fuse, instead of 3 with a 3 1 runs.

    - KK Kollasus is almost 2/0 so 2 runs would be near equal to 4/0 ...

    - KK KLMX cable is under $2 and is less than welding cable. KK has amp kits to save a little extra money on the KLMX cabling but none of their Kollasus

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  8. Posted

    active setup is when you wire your mids and highs directly to a good 4 channel amp that has the filters youd need to crossover at 2k +. so this means no passive crossovers. just using eq and filters off of the deck and amp. you must have a good 4 channel for instance the sundown 100.4 is very active friendly.

    Thank you!

    Do you really need a 4 channel amp to accomplish this?

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  11. Posted

    If you're willing to wait a little, Sundown has a new 100.4 coming out in a few months. It has a new crossover board in it specifically designed for running a set of components active.

    That'd be an ideal situation, no need for chitty head unit power that you can't crossover correctly, and no need for an external crossover.

    Sounds good to me, but if i were to do that, isn't that a little much power for a tweet? Thanks for the help.. and i know it won't be exact, but you think this will be out around november?

    I think he is meaning you should wait until they have their new amp and get it, then you can have a crossover and amplifier for your mids and tweeters both.

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  12. Posted

    My alt arrived today and it's installed! Now I need to upgrade my wires, I am stuck on KnuKoncepts but am interested in Stingers 3/0. In the long run Stinger 3/0 is actually less than 3*1 of the KK for obvious reasons, and KK doesn't offer any 3/0. I hear that the Kolossus cable is almost 2/0. I plan to get 2 more 250 alts, so am thinking about the multiple run issue.

    I am now stuck on deciding if I want to go with Kolossus Flex or KLM. KLM is smaller, but it's a bit cheaper when purchasing the amp kit, and they don't offer any amp kits with Kolossus.

    What would everyone else do? Go for the Stinger 3/0, multiple runs of the Kolossus Flex, or multiple runs of the KLM?

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  16. Posted

    Stephan, you need to read the thread.

    With the wire grounded it has absolutely no idea what position the parking brake is in, thus explaining why it does nothing for you.

    Put a switch or relay on that grounded wire & you will be golden.

    Thanks I was just confirming with the previous post that my model does the same thing :) I don't watch videos or DVDs in my car even though I have 3 screens lol

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IR4A...me=&seller= is the relay I was going to buy, is there any others that are cheaper? $18 isn't a lot, but it's always nice to save an extra penny.

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  17. Posted

    Kent, we had to move away from the blue logo partially due to the consistency of the printing and it is difficult to get both colors aligned on the print. Meaning with the Icon style dust cap it needs to be just one color for the most consistent results.

    I really think you should have a specific logo for each sub line. Like a cool stylized X underneath it have it say con, something like that.

    That's almost exactly what I brought up to Mark. I'd prefer without the con because that may look like Sony Xplodes, and the two cannot be compared!

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  21. Posted

    Thank you for the comments, I am actually going to put them into the B pillars so I leave room under the seats and it has a cleaner appearance. Luckily my car already has plenty of insulation... not second skin, but it does the trick for now.

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