mwerling1212

i hope it comes out soon. im thinking i might replace my saz 3k with it.

two d2 rl-p 18s. the reason i ask is because i bought the twisted 8 gauge speaker wire not thinking about it, and would waste a bunch if you see what i mean. Then why bother strapping them? Run one amp per sub and call it a day. Matching them isn't difficult by any stretch of the imagination. It would take 15 minutes max with a DMM and some test tones. hmm well i figured it would just be easier to strap them. It would also be at 2 ohms final load so my electrical should do better right? i also dont have another rca now that i think about it. if i can use the terminals; one amp for positives, the other for negatives, it would be easy. can i use them like that?

two d2 rl-p 18s. the reason i ask is because i bought the twisted 8 gauge speaker wire not thinking about it, and would waste a bunch if you see what i mean. IIRC the 1000's weren't strappable... the saz 1000d's? im pretty sure they are. maybe you're thinking of the sae1000ds. i hope they are because i would rather not gain match them and do all that stuff. i would be to worried that they are not perfectly set the same. lol

sorry to use this thread as a question for mine, but it helps with the diagram. im going to do the same thing, except run two 1000d's, and i was wondering if the master amps two left over pos terminals are both pos, and are the slave amps two left over pos terminals both negative. because i would like to use both on each amp so wiring them is easier. thanks for any help!

well ive been thinking about it. if the bolts are not broken(im not sure how to tell, it doesnt wobble, move , or come off) i want to get it fixed by someone whether it be fi, psi, or whoever and just use it as a ht sub on 300 watts in a llt. then just go back to my original plan of 2 18s and use the money i would have spent on the electrical upgrade for 3000 watts and put it towards a better headunit, maybe a new front stage. and do you think fedex will honor the claim? i really think they should... i mean, it is clearly their fault, and i cant just replace it as they are not being sold currently.

well igot some bad news today. my rl-p 18 came in and fedex must have dropped it. the sub was packaged perfectly, with a 2x4 and mdf crate that supported the sub, and a layer of foam to protect it from shock. but we all know how bad the delivery people throw shit around. the cone is locked up, doesnt move at all. upon closer inspection i noticed the motor had shifted about a quarter of an inch. is there anyway to push it back? or is a recone the only option? heres a picture. you can see where it was on the right side by the whitish line you can kind of see

i hope it is able to be shited back somehow. ill send it to fi if they can. i just dont want to have to recone it because i would have to get three recones and send three 18s to them. lol expensive.

it does not move or twist at all.

i could maybe get 2-4 inches in between, but last time i measured it was very close for 15 cubes. the amps and battery are going in front of the box so i can only move it forward so far. ill do some more measuring tomorrow now that i have established a size and tuning, then see if i can get some room in between the glass and the corner of the box. ill bump this thread up tomorrow with the verdict. lol

well tomorrow my third rl-p 18 should be here, so now i need to start doing some box planning. i have an isuzu rodeo (suv) with the back seats ripped out. im going to use the whole back portion to build the box. its not going ot be a wall though. my question is what size and tuning should i do for all three? i see the recomended 5 cubes at 27 hz for one, but im not sure if it would change for all three. by that i mean, would the optimal size be 15 cubes at 27 hz? maybe im overthinking it but it seems ike it would change due to there being multiple drivers in the same box. also, i know i can fit the box in my suv, but porting it back may not work. my back window angles in and will be very close to the top back edge of the box. would porting it up be ok? im looking for strong output in the lows(20-35). i will also be running around 3k to them hopefully via a new saz2500d when they are back in stock. thanks for any help!

the glass angles in a lot. to the point where it might touch the box. wouldnt it affect the air movement or "breathing" room?

ok cool. I guess ill get whatever deal comes my way first! Thanks for the help man!

Soon i should be running 2 saz1000d's strapped for 1800 at 2ohms in my isuzu rodeo(60 amp alt) big 3 done in 1/0. I have both amps already and i also have one stinger spv44. I will be buying another batt soon, probably a deka intimidator 9a31. Now my question is, which one should i use as the starting batt and which as the batt in the back? im not sure what i should do. I wont have a h/o alt for another couple months also. I know thats probably not enough to run the amps at full power, but i will keep the gains low until i get a h/o alt. thanks for any input! -Max

Ok cool! That makes sense about the bigger batt being in the back. I was reading around the forum and saw where someone(i think it was shizzon) say that running two different brand batteries is bad. If that is the case i could get a stinger spv70 instead. Also, If my voltage only drops a volt or two should i just get another battery or get the alt? I dont think i will be upgrading my power in this car so if i can avoid the alt that would be prime. lol. thanks for the input guys!

Ok, so Ive decided to make a build log, because i didnt the first time around and really wanted some feedback. So here it goes. Car: 1996 Isuzu Rodeo: Big three done in 1/0, no other electrical, until next month! haha! lol Equip: 2 Soundsplinter RL-P 18's 2 SAZ-1000D's (only have one as of now) Pioneer DEH-500ub(already installed, probably will replace it soon) Polk MOMO 6.5" components Kicker zx 200.4 (will replace after entire build is complete) knukoncepts 1/0, rcas, ans speaker cable(already ran except for speaker cables) SDS cld tiles(40 in it already, more will be coming) butyl rope, and ccf(already in) yellow top starting batt(dad has one laying around) and either and xs batt for the back, or stinger. what ever deal is better in the coming month. So the goal with this build is to get extremely low. I know it sounds like what everyone wants, but Im shooting for impressive output in the 20-30 hz range, because i absolutley love the way it sounds and feels. lol. Heres the car: now onto some of the equipment. as some of you may know, i found an awesome deal on another 18 at a pawn shop, and its a little older than my first one. That is why the cone is faded a little and dusty. Heres the teens: next i will post up more of the equipment

well its been awhile, but the only updates i have is that i cant get the back seats out yet, because its just being difficult. lol. Ihavent started the box yet because i have been sick, and just havent felt like driving to lowes. But on a good note i think im going to buy that $200 SAZ 1000d from jacob as soon as i get a response!

Im not exact on what i want, but 28 is a little high Im talking to a trusted source on what i should tune to. lol ill get back to that hopefully soon! Lol, 28hz is high. I think 28hz is a bit too low. haha well the Soundsplinter site recommends a 27 hz tuning, but i tried their recommended box and i didnt really enjoy it. I also tried 32hz tuning in 5.5 cubes and that sounded ok in a towncar trunk, but in my isuzu it is horrible. wasnt loud at all from 20-35, then extremely loud from 40-60. Now im trying a different approach.

If you need any help shoot me a message, the materials aren't too expensive at all... in fact if I'm not mistaken you can score everything at Wal-Mart! Fiberglass resin, fleece and/or glass mat, Bondo, and all the expendables... depending on prices, under $40 should net you everything you need and then some. You can even improvise a little bit. For my A-Pillar tweet pods I used an old t-shirt soaked in resin cool! i was thinking it would cost around 200! lol yea ill definitely PM you next week. I would like to get them started then so they can be done before everything else.

thanks matt! I've looked at many builds making pods, and it seems to be fairly simple. Ill look into how much all of the materials cost and see if i can work it into my budget. I may just try fiberglassing the tweeters in the A pillar if they sound ok there. If they turn out ok ill try my luck at pods.

Im not exact on what i want, but 28 is a little high Im talking to a trusted source on what i should tune to. lol ill get back to that hopefully soon!

here are the components, amps, and subs all together. this is the only picture of the comps. In the car, i have the SDS tiles, rope, ccf, and HU already in. heres the HU, the cargo area(will be ripping out back seats), then my doors which will be made llike bangingmc's(i think) doors. I wanted to fiberglass pods, but ive never done it before so i'd rather practice on something else before i spend money on all the materials. HU: cargo area: its a mess but that will change soon enough and heres my door! box plans will be next, but first i must measure! overall this should be a solid build, but dont expect anything too great! This is only my second build! thanks for looking

Ill throw up one pic so the thread becomes not worthless, then make a build log with more pics of the car/equip, and stuff as it comes along. but here they are (dont mind my strained face, its a b*tch to throw 2 18s on your shoulders when your 6'3 and skinny as hell, lol)

Well i have one rl-p 18 that is still pretty stiff even after a year of use. And today i just found another one at a pawn shop and picked it up for a really really low price. the coils are fine, both read 2.0, theres no rips or tears in the spider/surround. Now that i have 2 i really want to run them both in a sealed enclosure, but im worried they might play somewhat out of phase due to the one from the pawn shop having a looser suspension. Could this happen or am i just worrying too much? thanks!

i just tried but photo bucket isnt cooperating! But im still in the midst of talking to Mark at Soundsplinter to see if the new one is a prototype or not. Its identical to my original one but i want to be completely sure! But in the mean time i have decided that if it is a genuine rl-p, im going to rip out my back seats and build a massive ported box for the two instead of a sealed enclosure. Im not going to say the size or tuning until its done, because i may get flamed by almost everyone! lol. I picked up another part time job on top of 2 steady jobs so i will get this thing going soon in a build log. Ill try the pics again tonight.

oh i will. lol. It will be a month or so before i can get another saz1000d, batt and more 1/0, so they will only get about 300 watts a piece. AAHHH i wish i had a couple more days of work per week!!!