a1sauce47

Well I can't reach into the enclosure to get an accurate port measurement without taking out a sub so I'll have to wait tommorow or something to see.

Mhmmm hawtnesss (: Yeh I'll get the specs this evening I'm deer hunting at the moment give me a few hours and I should have posted my name parameters

OK so I'm not really sure what details and what not someone would need to do this. I'm wanting to upgrade and have been told by numerous people that modeling is my best option to make my best decision on new sub's/ and or enclosure etc. I don't have internet access other than my phone so downloading modeling software is not an option I need help! I'll give the basics of what I have if more details are needed I will provide assuming there is a kind hearted person who will help me out here. 2004 Pontiac grand am Alpine mrx m240 wired at 4 ohms - 1500 watt which is capable of doing 2400 at 2 ohms. Single slot port enclosure internal volume 4 cubic feet tuned at 32hz Two alpine type r 12 inch subwoofer 4ohm DVc 0 gauge wiring. 220 amp alternator with 0 gauge power wire and negative wire connected directly to battery Duralast gold top battery Any other specific details I will gladly provide if needed. Thanks alot

I can't afford to buy a new enclosure new subwoofers and a new amp. I'm far from rich. Alpines are not the loudest sub on the market I know for fact. There is a solution here without re doing my entire system . I'm not interested in getting everything I am working with my current setup and simply want a better subwoofer than alpine type r. I'm getting re directed in so many ways its becoming ridiculous

I just want to have a louder system without getting a major in subwoofer college

I just have more questions instead of answers at this point

I've had my alpines for over a year they only got smelly once on a song with super low bass in a crappy ported prefab probably tuned in the 40hz or above range but have got a new box since then and have never had a problem they rarely even get warm now. The amp gain sensitivity is .001 MV to 4 v and my hu has a 2.5 volt preout . have the gain set at exactly half way and have not had an issue .

I'll take some measurements when I get the chance its pouring rain outside ATM .

Wouldn't listening at a low volume be the same as quote on quote under powering? I believe this myth has been debunked on this forum though.

Just remember the Thermal rating has absolutely nothing to do with power requirements, at all! I did my research and I understand that now but I guess I have a hard time thinking of buying a higher end sub and not running it max I guess I've been brainwashed by a bunch of bs that isn't accurate. But would it be suitable to get a higher end sub and not giving it max. It confuses me as to why people run almost double wattage at times and brag how much louder it is

Way off subject here but how do I put a picture for my profile

The sub's I really want are fi bl 12 inch but not sure if I could fit the best enclosure for them with the space I have . they would be a few hundred watts short of their thermal rating if I did go with the fi

Awesome I appreciate that. As far as port its just a single slot port tuned at 32 hz with internal net at 4 cubes with displacement its around 3.6 cubic feet . I sound deadened the fire out of my trunk and door panels iit is way better than it was it doesn't buzz in the cab area but if you stand outside of the Car it sounds pretty wild. I still have a ton of deadener left about 75 sq foot its just such a pain getting everything when I get the time I deaden a little more as I go like I said though it has already helped tremendously . I want to stick with a 2 twelve setup as I listen to a lot of metal and have heard 15s get behind on that style of music but I do listen to a lot of rap as well hell even country but the lows I get are still pretty impressive . the three subwoofers I have been interested in are sq hds300, american bass xfl and possibly sundown sa 12 but I don't want to run the sa at 2400 watt I want to get full power from the amp on whatever I end up getting and the other sub's than the sa have 3 inch coils not sure if that makes a big difference???

Well my amp the alpine mrx m240 can be wired at one ohm but its only puts out 1000 at one ohm I know its weird . its 1500 at 4 ohms 2400 at 2 ohms and 1000 at one ohm. Like I said I didn't know what I was doing when I bought all that stuff but it is a very quality amp . as far as electrical I installed a 220 amp alternator and ran o gauge wire from positive battery to positive on the alt and did the same for a negative wire from the alt directly to the battery and it helped my voltage tremendously and also did the same for the battery negative to chassis of car. I did not run any new wire from engine block to chassis not sure if that will make a big difference?? My battery is a duralast gold top bought last year . I live in prime redneck country and the only people who have systems have comp r from wal mart who listen to country music lol so I don't have anyone to swap system advice I learned everything online and installed everything myself. Don't get me wrong my alpines do great and all and my family doesn't understand why I could possibly want more bass but they don't understand . my car rattles like crazy even with double sound matted trunk and door panels . I went to the local audio shop which is very sub par to ask the guy if he had an SPL meter but it only went up to like 100 he listened to it and said I was hitting probably in the 140s but there is no way I'm hitting 140 I don't believe it

It's not meant to be overwhelming. This is the one forum who will help you do it right. There are multiple ways to get louder, and just swapping subwoofers is not really the best way. Also, it's not about becoming an expert, but this forum will help you make the best choice and in the end you will understand why. Modeling will help make an educated decision with the subwoofers and the air space available with in your goals. As mentioned earlier, a bunch of random suggestions (like you will find on other more basic forums) will do you know good. That is why you will see in other forum topics on here, when a question similar to this one is asked, people will ask for more information to aid in making the best suggestions based on experience and modeling etc. As for T/S specs, think of them as an aptitude test results. They will tell the tendencies or preferences of the subwoofer though its mechanical and electrical make up. Another wonderful aspect of this site, is that you will be introduced to non-mainstream brands of which you will get much greater value in the subwoofer selection as non-mainstream brands do not have to charge for the brand name. There are many ways to get louder; More power (least efficient approach and puts the more strain on your electrical system)Larger subwoofers (more efficient approach)Additional subwoofers (also more efficient)A new enclosure for the current subwoofers that is designed more for the goals at hand (cheapest approach) This is off subject a bit but what do the q parameters mean exactly. Is higher q's better or lower Q's better or does it have to do with airspace in vehicle and enclosure etc. Is modeling to get all these equations to fit a particular vehicle there's so many options and I'm obsessing about bass. Its like a twisted addiction