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I figured it would be a fairly long process. Even the few small panels I've wrapped that were fairly flat took some time to get all the corners done smooth without wrinkles. Good work.

How long did it take start to finish to wrap the concaved portion?

I'll be trying the rabbit bit for sure the next time I'm planning on wrapping a panel. I have never really been able to get interior stuff to look profesional and after watching your videos I think I know where I've gone wrong in the past. Thanks for posting and keep up the good work.

Looking real good so far. I'm not a big fan of the streched fleece style usually but your approach of using it as a concaved dish instead of the typical ring poking up style looks much better.

Thanks. I should be firing it up and doing some test and tune tomorrow. Got it wired up tonight but it was to late to crank it up. I'll be getting some pics of it this weekend if all goes to plan.

This is another build I'm doing for a friend of mine. I'm doing an audio and hydraulic install for him. Goals... Put a clean and simple system together. Keep wattage reasonable to avoid large electrical upgrades. Good overall sound quality and output. Use as little space possible for audio. Got the box started. Using 3/4" birch plywood with a double baffle. Here is a shot of the backside of the sub for those who haven't seen one of these subs yet. Had to get creative to fit a pair of 3" Aero ports in this box. It's tuned at 33hz with a box volume of 1.5 cubes. The "shrek" box. Just needed to black out the top the other sides aren't seen when installed. Carved a large section of the rear deck out and laid down some second skin deadener. Then we slid the box in and screwed it to the rear seat brace to keep it from moving around. It's not completely sealed off from the trunk but should still cut down on some trunk rattle hopefully. Mounted and wire up the amp. Disregard the carpet in the bottom of the trunk it's not staying there.

I laid down some second skin deadener. Never used their product before so I figured I'd give them a try. Thanks. I really like this sub. I had it in a different box in a different vehicle and was pleased with it.

This will be very nice. I love detailed quality builds and they are far and few between. Keep up the good work.

I used some poly hardwood floor coating on my birch enclosure. It requires lots of light coats and plenty of blocksanding to get it smooth and glossy. I have well over 20 coats on it now.

I have another thread on layitlow.com but I've posted all the progress here also. Unfortunately my friend has basically gave up on finishing this project. I may finish the chassis and put it under my CoupeDeville though to prevent it going to waste. I don't think I'll be able to do anything much with the audio stuff at this point, time will tell.

I got started on my boys Caddy this week. The goals: 1. Build a very solid daily system to pump the sounds while riding. 2. Take up as little trunk space as possible. (Need space for hydraulic set up) 3. Make it a clean install worthy of popping the trunk for. 4. Put some JL system to shame while spending a fraction of the cash. The gear: Kenwood head unit. Infinity 6.5 components, 2 sets 12" Fi IB3 subs, trying to fit 4 but may end up with 3. Sundown SAX-50.4 Sundown SAZ-2000D Lots of 1/0 cable Undecided yet on electrical system. more to come... Here is the ride. Started doing the front doors. I stripped the carpet off and used the press board as a template for my MDF Flush mounted the tweeters in the arm rest as high and far foreward as possible Doing a test fit. I need to try to find some carpet to cover the MDF. I think I'm going to paint the grilles for the speakers also. The silver clashes with the interior. Got the other door done and moved on to the subs. The subs are designed for infinite baffle use so no box needed. I do however have to seal and brace the rear deck and seat back really well. I made the new rear deck piece to start with, and sorted out where the subs will sit. Then I made a trim piece to flush the subs into. I made a circle jig for my router. This thing is a life saver. First time ever that I've cut speaker openings correctly the first time. It also cost almost nothing to make which is a plus. Test fit the trim piece. I still need to router the edges and do a little sanding to get the shape I want. Figured I'd get a couple pics of the sub.

Well I've had enough of working my life away building cool shit for other people. I scooped up a 1980 Caddy CoupeDeville about a week ago and will be putting a basic hydraulic set up in it. I'll also be using all the various audio gear that I have been storing in the basement for the last 3 years to put a decent system together for it also. I know the gear isn't high end stuff but I bought it before learning about companies like Fi and Sundown. Hey I did by it all at clearance prices at least so I'm going to run with it. Heres what I have planned for gear as of now. JVC head unit. (8) Infinity Kappa 3 way coaxs. May only run 4 depending on room. (4) 10" Infinity Kappa perfect 10.1 subs in bandpass enclosure (4th order I believe it's called) (3) Clarion amps (I have 5 to choose from I'll post specs later) (2) Kinetik 1800 batteries Big 3 Plenty of 1/0 cable Alternator to be decided on later. I decided to give birch plywood a try since I keep reading good things about. Had some of the cuts done at Lowes to save me some time. Laid out the baffles and started cutting with my new circle jig. Glued and screwed the pieces together . Figured rounding the corner off the back side of the opening couldn't hurt. I cut a slot for the center divider to go into for a stronger glue joint since I won't be able to get a screw or nail in from the other side. Got the bottom and sides glued and nailed together. Attached some strips to the sides to make stting the baffle in the correct place a bit easier. Dropped the baffle and center divider in. Framed the inside with another strip to give me more flange surface for better sealing and to help prevent the wood from splitting since I'll need to use screws on the top panel for access to the subs. I'm building this exactly to the specs given from Infinity. I know the box seems small but the graphs supplied with the sub shows it should be louder than a sealed box and play lower than their vented box specs out at. I'm still working on port placement.

Thanks guys. Pulled the radio and the gauge pod I put in the factory radio slot and reworked a few things. Made some new mounting brackets to hold the headunit/eq in the new center counsol. Mounted it to the counsol. Used a couple factory screw locations that are hidden by the trim bezel to hold the counsol in place for a clean install. I did the same thing for the new switch panel location.

Thanks guys. I'm working on a center counsol to hold the head unit and eq now to clean up the look of the interior end of the install. Just trying to up the overall build quality now. I've built a lot of cars over the years and I try to improve on every build to make a cleaner, more functional install.

Thanks, it's getting closer to how I want it.

Sanding the wood wasn't too bad. It's sanding between coats of poly that sucks. It takes forever for the poly to fully dry and it gums up if you sand it before it does.

Thanks. I used high gloss polyurethane clear designed for use on hardwood floors. It required lots of sanding and about 15 coats to get it looking how it does. I also stained it before clearing to get the color to match the interior trim pieces.

Well since I destroyed the subs and had to do some reworking of the box. I also got off my ass and finished doing the S/S hardlines to clean up the trunk a little more. I ran all the lines under neath while the box was out. I wrapped the lines with rubber hose where they cross each other and also under the rack to keep them from rattling against each other. I welded some #8 unions to a tab and then welded it to the rack for a solid mount at the flex line. A few misc shots. I also opted to use Seco seals at all the hardline connections to insure against leaks. They slip over the fitting before you attach the line and create a softer sealing surface for a better seal. It's still not exactly how I want it but it's getting there. On a side not I hate the new forum layout on here. The page is crowded as hell now.

Thanks. She really likes helping me. We are going to restore/customize and oldschool Schwin bike for her together. Should make for a good time.

Added the new longer ports. Should be 34-35hz tune now.

They were cheap so no big loss. Only paid $180 for all four and I still have 2 of them left. I'll be doing some more work on it over the remainder of the winter so some more updates will trickle in here and there. I just need to make the new ones last a while my "spares" are running low now.

I'm not sure what caused all the damage. The box was exactly to the specs supplied by Infinity so that shouldn't have been the issue. I have a feeling that there wasn't enough clearance on the subs behind the ports and they may have been touching on the low notes. The 2 subs that were clear of the ports are still in working order somehow. I'll be tuning to 34-35hz on the ported box but I'm stuck with running 3" ports since I physically cant fit anything larger. I didn't hear port noise on the bandpass design so I'll just give it a try and see how it sounds. I've just been busy with more important things for a while. Finally got settled in at my new place and decided to start getting the old girl ready for spring. I'm not too surprised that they didn't last long I just can't seem to take it easy on anything audio related. I have the system crank up to full output 90% of the time I'm riding. I need a stupid loud system so I don't have to run it to the edge all the time. I hope the box sounds good since I have a retarded amount of time invested in it. I even sanded it down and gave it several more coats of clear today to freshen up the finish.

The bass fell off a bit mid summer then got even worse by the end of summer so I pulled the box to inspect the subs. Carnage... Each chamber had a blown sub. This is from the left This is from the right. Luckily I was able to convert the box over to a ported box with a good bit of cutting. These sections were not fun to cut out. I have 4 10" Polk MM1040 subs in the basement that will be the replacement subs for the new ported box. It works out good since the box works out to 1 cubic foot per driver which is what Polk specs for them when ported. I just need to make some longer ports to get the tuning correct, slap the bottom panel back on and I should be good to go. Should gain some output also by going ported. The 25mm of excursion on the new subs compared to the 18mm of the old subs will hopefully handle the abuse better.

I have really enjoyed getting out and riding the little bit that I've manged to. I did have a little problem this weekend with it. I lowered the rear a bit more and managed to puncture the gas tank dragging the ass end. Oh well at least I didn't blow myself up.lol. Thanks. I wish it was as easy a build as the pics let on. Truth be told I had lots of set backs and do overs but thats just how some projects go. I've got a lot more planned for it over the winter but time will tell how much of it gets done or not. Thanks. Like I always say nothing beats an oldschool, I say scoop up the 69 and ride in style.

It's amazing what just a little curve does for adding rigidity thats for sure. Well done.