CrazyKenKid

double post fail!

hey man I currently own 1-NS v1 motor (needs a recone) 2-NS v1 and 2- SAZ2500! and I live in Canada! I currently live in Trenton Ontario! how much are you looking to spend? e-mail me kpalesh@hotmail.com and I will tell you some more info and maybe hook you up!

250 will be fine! it is what I used back in the day for years becasue when I went to purchase 300A they were out and I never got around to buying a new one/ upgrading lol

Dont know. so I assume that your first post was a type-o then as you asked for fusing size between the battery and amp but you meant alt. lol also if my first statement holds true then, if they wire is capable of 300amps use a 300amp fuse! and always fuse to the wires capacity!

Actually what amp and what size wire more info please also does the amp have on board fusing

Fuse to the wires capacity that was If over current happens the wire can catch fire

hey try it out and if you don't like it put 1lb of polly fill in it and see if you like how that sounds!

when you pull the head liner off don't forget to put some sound deadener up there! unless you already did and if so congrats! and I like how that all looks!

Birch is amazing to work with! once you use it you never go back to mdf again!

congrats guys!

Lol wow interesting thread I must say lol

P.S. this is the guy who talked me out of wasting my time and doing a silly clamp test also! he is good people with a ton of knowledge! Monkey-see Monkey-Do Happens a lot in this hobby. I could go on a pretty long rant about all of the useless or senseless things people do in this hobby. In all honesty, it doesn't really matter. Even if the amp is over rated by 25% you're not going to hear a difference. As long as you're not running one of those extremely low end amps which rate everything at PMPO or ILS, generally real power output is going to be close enough to rated to not make an audible difference. It's often nice to know just from a manufacturer reputability aspect.....sure, I'll put a little more faith into the general build/design quality and respect for a company if their 500w amp really outputs 500w. But if it only does 400w, you're not going to hear a difference. Unless you are chasing #'s on a meter, it really doesn't make that big of a difference. But to actually measure the true output of an amplifier to the level of detail and accuracy required to compare it to the manufacturer's rated power is generally going to require a professional level measurement setup. A "clamp test" will do nothing of the sort.

adjust by ear is the best way to go man!

nice! actually if you pop down to your local college and tell someone what you are doing I am sure they can help you out or even maybe want to she there class or whatever! either that or pop over to your local car audio and ask if they have one you could borrow for a few minutes, I know my local car audio shop has one! but they think it is gold and never lend it out lol!

do it up and report back! (once you get an oscope)

nice! well one of the key things to get to look into borrowing is an oscope as that will tell us how much power the amp is outputting before it sends out a clipped signal to the sub. I guess you could call it a clean signal? and 12.5vdc that is weak! lol

Volts x Amps = Power! you are correct my man! and yes all on the output side of the amp! keeping in mind that the output of the amp is directly effected by the input voltage and load conditions! If your amp was rated at 14.4volt dc please try to keep 14.4 volts all test long!

Car charger work for power supply? For the load wouldnt the subwoofer be the load? Don't have an oscope Fluke mm fluke clamp meter Test tone on a CD? amp probe is clamp meter - fluke 376 i think is the one I have I would use a battery that is being charged by a car charger over just the charger. For example if your amp is rated at 1500 get a battery that can support at least 1500watts! you would think that but resistors is what i say to use but in a pinch use a sub i guess lol! oscope is used to tell us when the amp is clipping so we know where and when max power output is reached, look into borrowing one test tone on a cd is fine as long as it is accurate and isn't like +3db or something crazy now to clamp your amp simple: hook your cd into your amp to play the tone repeatedly (ipod or cd player with a 3mm to rca converter or a head unit if you got one laying around) hook the battery to the amp hook a dmm up the battery hook your sub up free air hook your clamp meter on the positive lead going to the sub/load hook your other dmm up to the output terminals on the amp to tell the A/C voltage then take your stolen oscope and hook it up in parellel to the load turn on the cd player adjust gain until it starts to clip read the numbers off of your dmm and current meter do some math, you have voltage and current so do something with those to find power! and report back and take lots of pictures lol! o and keep an eye on the battery voltage to make sure it stays constant! and if it drops record it! the only thing wrong with a sub is when it heats, or temp in the room heats up, or as you change frequencies the impedance of the sub will changes this will lead to inaccuracies but for a daily kind a guy who want to try something for kicks do it up! keeping in mind if you were profession the power supply and load would cost a lot of shinny pennies! o and I think your subs should be free air? not sure how the box will effect the test. we will see if anyone else chimes in on this!

Your not using cheap plastic clamps are you? The metal ones with some loctite work wonders. you guys are both wrong clamps blow and are ugly you should be using velcro!

things you will need. Power supply - this power supply should be able to hold a steady voltage for the entirety of your test and should be constantly monitored load - a bank of resistors is ideal oscilloscope - something that can handle the amount of power the amp should make two multi-meter - a half decent one- one to monitor the A/c voltage and one to monitor the DC voltage clamp-meter - to monitor the amperage going the load tone generator - to generate a clean tone or sine wave if you can follow me Dylan so far let me know and lets go from there! and what is an amp probe? link? picture?

any idea of what kind a DB's you are pulling?

wow that thing is tank! Nicely done yet again!

o the powers of autoCAD! I have been using that program for about 5 years now lol! it never fails to amaze me! nice job man! and I like that sticker in your picture! "SLP gets you Laid"

so with your port saying DC, how much port area and or port volume do you have? and might I ask how you know this number if you do?

damn dude very cool!! lets see a build log! and does your port say DC?