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CrazyKenKid last won the day on June 14 2011

CrazyKenKid had the most liked content!

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62 Excellent Member

About CrazyKenKid

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    SSA Respected
  • Birthday 04/11/1988

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    Mansfield Ohio
  • Interests
    Car audio
  • Vehicle
    2012 Ford Escape
  1. what head unit are you installing? also I assume the car is on when you have the colors matching?
  2. Morning RK, If you would like to try/have an JL Audio Clean sweep I have one of those you can have. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-qvIxLKXiJNc/p_136441DSP/JL-Audio-CL441dsp-CleanSweep.html I was going to use it to integrate with my Ford escape so I could retain my steeringwheel controls and sync functions also. Long story short I ended up just installing a double din head unit. I don't mind giving it away as when I was younger car audio peaked my interest and from it I learned all about electrical, like power, AC/DC watts, ohm (resistance), capacity (batteries and caps) and now Im a system integrator all because of car audio! so I wouldn't mind helping out! if you would like it drop me a PM w/ your address and I will send it out soon
  3. So if I'm looking at that link correctly you are putting 1/0 awg into the set screw side and the other end goes into your amplifier? If so i wouldn't recommend those because if you simple stripe the wire back you get more contact area and less chance of something shorting across those connectors. If you plan to use those be sure to heat shrink around the entire connector because if something conductive shorts across those terminals that isn't good. Personally I wouldn't waste my money on those just stripe the wire neat and insert! notice in the above picture, I didn't use those connectors I just stripped my wire nice and close.
  4. you can't reduce 1/0 to 1/0. are you referring to a 1/0 to 1/0 coupler/joiner? If so they work great just make sure you wrap them in tape or heat shrink to insulate them. I have used these in the past, they served the purpose. https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SPT5210-Classic-Output-Shoc-Krome/dp/B001H52AAA
  5. ya kind a what I was thinking after I ran the test and thought about it for a bit. I looked into an RTA machine and the cost was a bit high. I guess I could go to a car audio place and see if they have one I can use to see what my stock system is doing if a clean sweep is required. Thanks Impious for the input and telling me what the results really where! it is good to still see you and M5 here!
  6. so after doing this test my result where linear. but i don't know what kind a modulation the OEM headunit is doing to the output to achieve this linearity of the OEM system. I realize my head unit might be processing the sound output to match the response of the speakers being used. I think I will use the JL sweep if it can be had for a reasonable price. thanks everyone for your replies.
  7. in regards to links, that is information I have found on the supplier web site, other forums a youtube video's. http://www.jlaudio.ca/car-audio-oem-interface http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/3sixty.3 happy hunting. if you would like to know something directly please message me here!
  8. for refernce: track: http://newmp3download.net/01_-_jl_audio_-_cleansweep_clean_sweep_calibration_track.mp3_4shared_download_mp3_3_MSRRp8.html android app: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=radonsoft.net.rta now to test it out! crap i got to by some CD's (or toss it onto my usb stick)
  9. that is a good idea. I found a free RTA analyzer for my cell phone now all i need are tracks! any idea where i can get some tracks?
  10. for the amps i plan to use: -SAX100.4 (old rev) -SAZ1500 (not sure what rev) -sub my old night shade or something sealed -batterie(s) not sure yet maybe batcap 2000 -speakers OEM for now but if they are a pile of crap they will be swapped with something cool like a comp set,maybe i will try that sundown set!
  11. thanks dblevel, last question of the night is there a place where I can look to see if I need the channel summing for my 2010 ford escape? JL CLSSI (i think it is called) it is used when my OEM head unit doesn't send out a full range signal. the JL seems to have a few add on's but I am not sure if I will need any of them any comments guys
  12. Nadcicle, are you saying that using an RF is overkill as an RF should be used for more of an "audio junky" or in a competition stand point? I realize the RF is: -8 channel -advanced signal processor -200+ channels to setup if needed -phase control -time delay -pretty much a little computer with one function (sound). I realize the JL is: -dumb -fixes what it see's or rather corrects or strips out outside modulation end goal is to use my factory OEM head unit to get a better sound out of my speakers and add a sub. by keeping my OEM head unit and simply interfacing with the outputs on the OEM head unit I will retain my blue tooth, steering wheel controls and other misc sync items. If I have to replace my speakers in the door panels I will no big deal. I am driving a 2010 ford escape. I did do a double din in the past with a PAC interface module but I was unhappy with the loss of my sync and bt from the head unit vs the sync BT. As I think about my choices I am leaning more and more towards the JL. Although the cost difference is around 150~ on average.
  13. come to think of it to get the sub and amp combo I guess i could jump the full range signal to the sub amp and then just use the LPF and be done with it?
  14. I was going to by the RF 3sixty.3 today, then noticed a JL clean sweep. From what I can gather the JL simply converts the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a flat signal then outputs to an amplifier. The RF360.3 will convert the signal, from a OEM head unit, to a user defined signal via the EQ functionality then outputs to an amplifier. If I purchase a RF360.3 how likely am I to give my amp, SAX100.4, a flat response? If I purchase a JL clean how likely am I to make that signal something other then flat? In other words for me, a person who doesn't compete but enjoys good quality, would I be better off with a JL or an RF? Also from what I have read, if I change the EQ on my OEM head unit it will also change the output of the JL unit so in this way I get a basic EQ rather then a super advanced EQ, what the RF 3sixty.3 offers. lastly what I noticed is the JL has no sub outputs and takes high level inputs. If I wanted to run a sub how would I do this on the JL unit? thanks for the help guys.