Sniper
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Posts posted by Sniper
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2 15" JL Audio 15w0v2 subs tuned to mid 30s~ (somewhere around 35hz) on a PA3000DB pushing roughly 1100 watts RMS, does 151db at the headrest sealed. makes your whole body shake, made my ears pop
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I'll get repaired images up after I get my new HU for the Jimmy im doing a build in.
Expect a build thread in 3 weeks to months. (as in 3 months of course)
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i ended up using spray adhesive and repaired the terminals with solder.
it was a low excursion Dayton Audio DCS450 18.
not made to do like 30MM XMAX or anything.
gets the job done as a cheap 18, its the one in my image.
<-------------
i'd upload pics but I am just too busy... as im writing this right before I hit they hay at 12:22AM
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anyway, a little back story, I sold this sub to a friends brother, he brings it back to me and says the sub is blown and figures I could use it.
with a little inspection I noticed a few things.
the tencil leads were coated in the normal wire cover thingy that some subs use (red and black wires),
well, the wires will still pretty much covered, but there are spots that seem to be missing wire cover.
and the Positive wire is pulled out of the terminal a little (meaning it needs re-soldered)
and this 18 has a dual spider setup right? the top one is glued on a big ring about a quarter to half an inch tall.
anyways, the top spider seems to have pulled itself off of the ring piece, making a buzzing noise that sounds very close to being blown.
I placed the lead with my finger so i' d be powered, and I held the cone down a little on the top part of the suspension (to keep the layer from buzzing)
and it sounded extremely clean.
what im wondering is what kind of glue will work on this sub for fixing the spider? + it doesnt seem to need a recone as it is still stiff as hell, so im not going to recone it >.>
TL;DR version : Spider has pulled itself off a riser, needs reglued, what glue works for it?
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so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever.
BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote)
I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o
Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH lower than stock and the actual lock cylinder has been detached from the mechanism that turns the J hook into place (aka, the metal rod thing is broke and its too much of a pain in the ass to line back up)
with the hatch mech lowered how it is, one cannot insert a screw driver on the seal line via center and bash the mech with a hammer, its set so the only way it can be opened is from the inside.
which is why im curious about setting up a system where the trunk can only be opened with the car running...
(yes, I do realize they could pull my fold-down seats out, but that box is going to fill that whole crevice, the actual amps are going to be at the front of the trunk in front of the lock mechanisms
and the 15s will be placed in a way that 4 will fit in that trunk, so we're talking VERY little room. (very creative box, i'll get a CAD pic on here tommarow of what im thinking, that is if I can find a 3VIEW of this car on the internet.
BTW : want to make a few bucks? Find me the very image I need to draw this car in cad, and I will get you 5$!
This image needs to be : FRONT, SIDE, TOP, and BACK
5 bucks to the first person who finds the perfect image (also, these need to be properly scaled pictures. I'll explain that tommarow as well when I get the CAD drawing up)
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im not sure why the mic isnt picking up drop, you can hear the closet resonate and shit, but no bass..
I dont get it D:
This thing drops pretty good for an old 15 though
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now with video
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Site link is bad.
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If it were a Q in my truck it would never really even see 200w, my Mach5 surely doesn't. You don't need anywhere near that power and if you think you do, you should buy a BL and not a Q
I saw the Q for sale in the FS section of this site ^^;
Hmmm, guess this 1300a infinity's getting some use (amp & wire at the junk yard for under 15$ ftw, and its like 100 feet of 4 gauge wire, plenty for power, ground, and sub ;3)
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best part, got the amp for 8$
and I got all the wire for 3$
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heres what I got there today (besides the crappy anaba speaker)
a bunch of 8GA wire (what better way to wire big subs up)
about 30 feet of 4GA wire (not sure what im gonna do with this yet, maybe use it for the amp I picked up)
a Infinity 1300a amplifier (has NO problems what so ever!, the car it was in had been rear ended, I spotted the tell tale power cable heading to the trunk so I ripped the backseat out, sure enough there was an amp there)
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Did it have a black cone but like a pink, green, blue, red, or some other color surround?
anyways, pretty sure they're terrible. Otherwise they wouldn't have been left in the car.
has a black surround and a yellow cone (might be tarnished white)
from what i've found out so far, mids shot, and I kinda dropped it earlier and the mag fell off the mid. so if I want to even use this now it needs a solder dab to repair the broken tencil lead D:
oh well, atleast it looks cool.
it hit lows good, and it was very stiff.
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...when you have more money in wire than most have in speakers
...when you'll sell spare computers to buy a sub (ME!)
...when you will sacrifice the backseat for more bass
...when your door speakers cost more than common folk's subwoofers (common folk being people that have systems, like Rockford P2s, that sort of thing)
...when you've had to bag your car because you have too much weight in the back
...when you dont care how fast your car is, just how loud it is
...when you've got a room full of magnets and old speakers (and frames)
...when you have a magnet holding your door open
...when your computer system has your old 6x9's from last setup hooked up as computer speakers
...when you've spent so much on your system you could have bought a new car
...when your sound system is worth more than the car
(oh man, i could go on for hours)
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so, was at the junk yard today getting some parts for the Saturn (need a new trunk latch) today, when I spotted this odd looking by-nine on the rear deck of a caprice (old 80s box chevy) right? so after I got my part and my bolts needed, I walked over to the caprice and took a peak in the trunk, found about 15 feet of 8AWG wire (perfect length for the application I need it for, no, im not using it as power wire) in the trunk, and then I looked at this yellow by-nine that I saw, the magnet was BIG, had to be atleast an 80oz magnet, mags as big as a CD in diameter, couldnt find the second one, so i grabbed it and continued to look for other parts.
later on today when I got home I hooked her up and dropped her in my spare 6x9 box, she's pretty loud for a 6x9.
anyways, anyone ever heard of "Thump!" before?
back sticker :
Thump!
T8693
240 WATTS - T!
AN Anaba^GROUP INC COMPANY
and of course the signature "Made in CHINA" sticker
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Buy what you want the first time, it is cheaper. Believe me.
So you don't have enough money for what you want, but your willing to spend 250$ for a temporary fix? It makes no sense, a subwoofer sitting around unused for a couple of weeks isn't going to hurt anything.
at my place that means i'll need a new cone when I get the new amp.
shit gets damaged here when its not used, plus im impatient, if its a refurbished sundown amp, I should have a problem as long as it was fixed right the first time.
the 1000's actually arent as much as I thought they were, so I *might* just get the right amp the first time and just have this 18 boxed up.
Kinda sucks about this next line, but im gonna need to put a grill on it to be safe. (kids, dogs, older-arsehos-of-brothers)
meaning, i get to get something made custom on the water-jet
wonder what design i should use :3 (bunch of small Fi symbols? dunno)
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im currently looking into buying a Fi Q 18 right?
well, i dont have any car amps currently! (Had to sell my two 600 watt kenwood amps, yea i know it isnt much power, but it was plenty for my 6000s)
So, since I def. dont have enough to buy a SAZ-1000 yet, how much would you say could get the Q moving?
like 500 rms? 800rms? 1000rms?
I dont wanna spend a whole lot, cause I want to buy a SAZ soon, but I dont want the Fi just sitting around, you know how it is when you get a new sub, you wanna hook it up as soon as the box is done!
Cant just finish the box and put it in the garage and watch it gather dust.
enough-power-for-minimum-before-I-buy-the-bigger-Sundown-amp budget
Budget : about 200 dollars
Power needed? : as much thats true for about 200 dollars (this is why im asking, theres tons of amps out there, but what is -right- for 200 buck?)
Sites provided : Sonicelectronix.com and audiosavings (avoiding crutchfield 'cause I dont have enough money to spend MSRP on crap, Crutchfield charges more for the cheap-o pioneer than it is at walmart XD)
Why am i buying a Q when I dont have cash for a big amp? - 'cause he doesnt want that much for the Q, plus i'll have the cash for it in a while. (few car problems to take care of, like new gaskets and hoses, ya know, normal wear-and-tear type things)
EDIT : totally forgot to add this
does 6 cube @ 28hz sound good? or should I go bigger? (its gonna be in my closet, so there is technically a limit, clothes, single folding door size closet)
http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_80&products_id=205 http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_67_69_79&products_id=181
whats another $50?...i had my 15 on about 7-800rms(overrated hifonics 1200d) then switched to an ed nine 1(under rated 1200) and didn't notice THAT much difference. I would just hold out until you can get what you really want.
holy crap, thats awesome as hell, i'll have to hop on that
still getting a SAZ-1000, thats music to my ears ;3
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im currently looking into buying a Fi Q 18 right?
well, i dont have any car amps currently! (Had to sell my two 600 watt kenwood amps, yea i know it isnt much power, but it was plenty for my 6000s)
So, since I def. dont have enough to buy a SAZ-1000 yet, how much would you say could get the Q moving?
like 500 rms? 800rms? 1000rms?
I dont wanna spend a whole lot, cause I want to buy a SAZ soon, but I dont want the Fi just sitting around, you know how it is when you get a new sub, you wanna hook it up as soon as the box is done!
Cant just finish the box and put it in the garage and watch it gather dust.
enough-power-for-minimum-before-I-buy-the-bigger-Sundown-amp budget
Budget : about 200 dollars
Power needed? : as much thats true for about 200 dollars (this is why im asking, theres tons of amps out there, but what is -right- for 200 buck?)
Sites provided : Sonicelectronix.com and audiosavings (avoiding crutchfield 'cause I dont have enough money to spend MSRP on crap, Crutchfield charges more for the cheap-o pioneer than it is at walmart XD)
Why am i buying a Q when I dont have cash for a big amp? - 'cause he doesnt want that much for the Q, plus i'll have the cash for it in a while. (few car problems to take care of, like new gaskets and hoses, ya know, normal wear-and-tear type things)
EDIT : totally forgot to add this
does 6 cube @ 28hz sound good? or should I go bigger? (its gonna be in my closet, so there is technically a limit, clothes, single folding door size closet)
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How are you going to fit that in your trunk??
It's going to need at least 6 cubes.
its used, and I can get a 15" 12 spoke basket real cheap (10shipped) + recones aren't that expensive, play with it in the room for a while then after I get the car from my dad (its gonna be his until the second half of my junior year) im gonna get the recone kit for a 15" Fi Q, then have some wall socket fun with the old 18
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OH boy.
Just a little teaser here; are you testing the amp with a resistive or reactive load?
I was using a subwoofer, so it would be both resistive and reactive, because the coil impedance is 2ohm+2ohm, allowing me to get 1ohm, 2ohm, and 4ohm, Le is 2.50mH.
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to plug this in you need to know that ; house current is 115VAC
Question. Have you measured the voltage at your wall outlet and gotten 115V? It varies depending on time of the day, load, line sag and what not.
Question 2. Wtf is 'voltage's amperage'??
Measured with a multimeter before and during testing.
the amp is rated at 4 amp usage.
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I should just delete this garbage list of misinformation
wtf is your point of confusing yourself in public???/it isnt wrong, but it cant be used in the regular enviroment.
its the right information to find certain numbers, but you need numbers to use it, essentially its a version of ohms law that allows efficiency to be found.
and im not confused, i understand the equation.
the only way to properly use it is to use POWER as it comes off with an ohms-load on it.
meaning my house amp does :
153 watts @ 4ohm
175 watts @ 2ohm
215 watts @ 1ohm (gets really hot at 1ohm, no wonder though
)to plug this in you need to know that ; house current is 115VAC and the amplifier has a 4A fuse rating, since all the other outputs do about 34 watts rms, this means
since its a 5 channel amp we cant properly find efficency because the subwoofer line uses its own ammount of the voltage's amperage. this means the only way to find it out
is to add up total output then find what 115x4 equals. this amp does 311 watts rms total (Saying the subline is wired to 1ohm) and 4x115 equals 460.
this means my amplifier is exactly 67.6% efficient.
(my highs are all wired to 2ohm & in this scenario my sub is wired to 2ohm)
Now tell me, is this misinformation? I think not.
for this equation to work you have to know what the system output's exactly as power. meaning this requires a good multimeter and the RMS chart. (or a true RMS Clamp if you've got the money for one)
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Its offical folks, im buying 1 18" Fi Q from a member of this website.
260shipped is a good price for a Q.
hopefully I can pay him sooner than friday, all depends on when I get paid for these computers im trying to get rid of, if anyone needs some computer parts just shoot me a PM
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since it seems I need to post here.
remember ; the average consumer is gonna go with what ever sounds professional.
and the average consumer is gonna want a name that sounds good.
so to be short and to the point, call it ThermoMat
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if your budget is 500 for a new setup its gona be hard to get everything.
if you get a 18" q its gona be about 350 just for that.
I was thinking more of Subwoofer budget ;3
already got me some killer 0/1 in my garage, KnuKoncepts Kolosus Fleks ftw. got 1 long 25 footer, and 1 0/1 6ft strand of the mentioned wire.
(already preparing for an install, as soon as I got subs and more wood, im totally starting a build thread)
im still considering a 1500.1, how well do you think it could push 2 Fi Qs?
oh haha i gotcha now.
the 2000d isnt much more then the 1500d rite now so id go with that
itd be nice with those q's
I might just have to get me some Fi Q's and beat the hell out of em with a 2000d ;3
man, picture 2 15" Fi Q's in a Saturn SC
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adding a relay control for trunk release?
in General Audio
Posted · Edited by Alex Walls
on the topic of the saturn and the 15s, since anyone who's familiar with the SC1 probably already knows that the backseat is way too damn small, I think you probably know where im going with this
(no, not a wall, maybe window-line wall ;3)