Jump to content


SSA Tech Team
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by ///M5

  1. ///M5

    Uh Oh.......

    Excellent, hurry up and get HOME! Either that or tell her to start installing so we can hear how it sounds.
  2. ///M5

    DIY component choices

    Indeed, I have a very similar desire and problem. Mids to go in doors/kickpanels and tweets in the stock A-pillar locations. I listen to a lot of jazz and love the upright bass and really, really wanted a mid to extend and sound natural playing the bass notes. I haven't installed mine yet, but with exactly the same power I just ordered a set of Seas W18E001 and the Alpine F1 Status tweeters (basically ScanSpeak D2904 but $60 instead of $180 ea). I bought my W18's used for a steal (used to be NPDang's) otherwise I was going to go with the G18 Seas. From what I have read it should make a pretty wicked combo for mid-bass on the low end. By no means is it 2 ohm, but on the same note you have plenty of power to push them and won't be putting that heavy a load on your amplifier. Mine land this week, but I really won't have a chance to install them for a couple weeks as I am out of town travelling a bunch and it requires some fiberglassing....a full review and install log will be posted in the speaker section.
  3. Well everywhere I read says make sure it doesn't flex. No of course they were referring to the whole box, but in my case you could stand on my mold and it wouldn't flex. As for driving over it I am sure it would hold up, but I probably won't try...
  4. Hey, want your guys opinion on my setup and what to do. The review here and interactions with Mike have convinced me to go with a SoundSplinter. I will push it with either 310wrms (PG M44) or 500wrms (PG zx475ti). My choice due to volume is either a sealed Rlp 12" or ported 10" RLi. I haven't ordered the sub yet but have started on the mold for the box. Here are pics of the beginning.
  5. ///M5

    just wondering

    If I were making three amps for a discerning crowd: 1) 1500.1 sub amp 2) 200x2 Front stage amp 3) A take off on the component amp idea, but in 4 chn. 150x2 for mid 50x2 for tweet or alternatively wire to 300x1 & 50x2 for lower cost systems Maybe item 3 is for too much a niche market, but man would that make life simple, ESPECIALLY if you added crossovers (one post late here).
  6. ///M5


    x2 that picture doesnt do the RLP justice. And the picture definetely doesn't sound as good either.
  7. ///M5

    just wondering

    From the posts of yours that I have read, I trust you more than current manufacturers and would be glad to buy from you as well. It would give me a reason to sell off some of my other gear
  8. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Congrats. How long before you figure out how to mod normal ones into high amp?
  9. ///M5

    I cannot believe I am about to say this....

    Good luck and have fun with it. Women love it if you do something that they can remember. I took my wife to be hiking on the cliffs of the St. Croix river and had a picnic in my backpack. Also had hidden champagne, real glasses, the ring. Did it on a cliff top; however, she is obviously an outdoorsy girl. One other insurance reference. Big reductions at 25, and 30, but if you are over 25 and married it is the same as 30. When I got married last year I had just turned 30...pretty bad timing meaning I got screwed on insurance as much as they could.
  10. A little off topic, sort of: I am addressing the front stage. Last night I ordered up some Seas Excel W18's for the mids and I am getting my buy finger itchy about buying the Scanspeak D2904 (Alpine F1 knock off version) in the next couple of minutes. And if you want I will start a thread and document the install and passive crossover design in the speaker section?
  11. Acidburn you were lucky with your T-nuts, mine broke loose before being able to tighten the sub. Oh well, they are out now. If anyone else uses these glue them like I usually do! Allright back to it some more listening impressions. First off a Wow is in order. The sub sounds awesome; however, if I were to install it again I would have broke it in first. It is crazy to drive around and hear the surround loosening up to the point where the sub starts getting louder and louder. Conveniently since my front stage is pretty sucky at the moment, I have a leftover L-pad connected to my amp from my previous install which makes those momentary gain corrections all that much easier. On the same note, the L-pad seems to be unnecessary (except on real bad recordings). With my old JL
  12. ///M5

    I cannot believe I am about to say this....

    Just FYI, I lived in Chicago (before I was 25) and found after calling tons of places for insurance that when you drive a "sporty" car it is usually best to use one of those super high risk companies that cater to people with DWI's or driving issues. Even though out of all sports cars under $50k, yours is about the worst to insure. Geico wanted to rape me at this time, there specialty seems to be married couples in the 30+ range with multiple vehicles...until you hit there I don't think it will help much. I have found that Farmers has really saved me cash and the service has been great.
  13. ///M5

    TV Buffs Help

    The only real technology to get is DLP, but man buying a refurb would scare the heck out of me. Especially cuz, if you wait until January I bet you can buy new for probably about the same price. If the refurb comes with a decent warranty then don't worry about it. Basically, Plasma/LCD have serious off axis viewing issues, rarely can they have pixel transitions faster than 16ms (compared to 8 microsec for DLP) and they also wear out quickly were the DLP's should last. Hope that helps.
  14. ///M5

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Edge, isn't that a snowmobile suspension....I guess both the Ranger and the Polaris sled are made in MN.
  15. ///M5

    Summit Racing brand exhaust components

    Sorry, what I meant by just headers was just exhaust. For more power/better mpg the engine needs to breath better on both ends. The exhaust will help, but matching the improvements on the intake side will round it out.
  16. ///M5

    Help, box design for eclipse alum 10"

    Indeed a reason, but it might be that they assume everyone wants a "boom box" unless otherwise specified. If you are really concerned about lowering the tuning frequency email Eclipse direct and ask them. It would be fun to test their customer service anyway. Make sure that you include what you like to listen too and what you want the sub to do--that might help us here too.
  17. ///M5

    Music Videos --> DVD ?

    As long as your DVD software is fairly new, it will help you take care of it. You should even be able to put them on CD's but they won't hold nearly as much--cheap though.
  18. ///M5

    Summit Racing brand exhaust components

    If you are just doing headers, the power won't be that much different and the mpg neither--probably enough to pay for the headers in a 100k miles or so. And as Tirefryr said unless you go with the long tubes the sound won't change much either. When you say "rumble" I do picture long competition headers with big tubes running through a sort of stock muffler and high flow cat. Something like that will sound nearly stock at running RPM's with some more throat, but at idle you might have enough lows to set off car alarms. Plus the bonus is then it will allow you to go overboard on the rest of the engine and not have the exhaust be the weak link. Oh and about Summit. They are great. I have ordered a couple sets of pistons, headers, tranny parts, and all sorts of other things from them. Shop around though as they aren't always the best deal, but they are definetely good to work with.
  19. Maybe they are awesome, but only if necessary--and I love it if they are necessary; however, they are also the biggest electrical noise source in your car. Swap the big 3 and make sure you need it before you buy one. Or if you want to be cheap, there are a bunch of luxury cars that came stock with at least a 130amp alternator and from a j. yard these are like 35$.
  20. ///M5

    Summit Racing brand exhaust components

    IMO if you don't swap out the cats, save the money and get the smaller header. Of course if it were me, I would get the bigger headers and do the other stuff too. Warning, they are sort of a beyotch to get on.
  21. Hey, that would be too easy. I would only have to build a baffle since my current 5.25 are the german mount backwards type. I will probably yank my doors off and see what else I can do this weekend.
  22. Allright, now that you guys have helped me choose a sub
  23. ///M5

    Summit Racing brand exhaust components

    Depends on what you are looking for. Tirefryr is correct in that going too large without some lumpy cams and other pieces will reduce your acceleration, but 1 5/8" is definetely not too large even for stock cams, injectors, and timing curves. Most importantly is again that you get something with smooth transitions that is made from bent tubing instead of being cast. Generically less bends is better as well. Are you looking for a little more grunt, more real exhaust sound or what is the push to buy headers?
  24. My concern as well. Going to go DIY of some sort for sure now though, just haven't decided what. My recent (hours ago) install of a new Rlp has definetely made me want more mid-bass than the puny bimmer 5.25"s can put out. Anyone have any thoughts on the Dayton tweet?
  25. Conviently, I have a Dinan suspension and pretty much nothing will make it sag! As for an estimation on cost, I spent about $240 on the enclosure, but in reality could have easily built it for about half of that. I had a hard time sourcing the right material and built the mold with the wrong glass and too much resin. Now, for the not so funny part. I made a whopper of a mistake when assembling the box. I used T-nuts and didn't glue them in place relying on their little hooks to bite into the mdf. Needless to say, 3 of 8 broke loose and wouldn't tighten. And you say what is the big deal with that? They wouldn't loosen then either. After a couple days of swearing--and delaying my install I finally got the bolts out and everything mounted in the car--about 2 hours ago. I will spend some time listening to the sub (and breaking it in) over the next week and update my feelings; however, my first impression is that the clarity is superb. I have heard bass notes that were previously tonally identical to others even though they are not. They just weren't there with my twin JL's before. The output is very linear and makes it through my sealed trunk very well. On a sad note, it is a bit hard to evaluate as now my front stage is COMPLETELY inadequate--my next project of course. So far, I am loving the Rl-p for sure. Thanks Mike!