///M5

Well. Got back from CA yesterday. Just sprayed it with bedliner tonight, if all goes well I will have some extremely overwhelmed fronts come tomorrow! I still might carpet it later, but wanted to have my stereo back.

I see lots of room....

There are two others that NEED to be included, and an extra: As you might guess I would put in the: E34, S28 BMW M5 straight six (1991-1994 US) 1964 Ford 427 SOHC. Based on the FE series engine (Std Ford block of the time) was the first major US engine with overhead cames. So destructive in its time that it was banned pretty much from every competition it was entered in. And from a reliability standpoint, the best 6 ever made was: The BMW 535i I6. Super reliable, torquey, and real easy to work on.

Hmm, is that really "sealed" and is it structural? You might want to look into adding a real baffle and strengthening up the structure if it isn't. That's what I'd do, and of course up to the rl-i10 but thats up to you, I am sure the 8 would rock too.

They were always bought by someone who has pretty much left them alone. Hopefully for the MB named products that will hold true.

Somethin' finally for the xxx naysayers!

You can pretty much blow anything if you are clipping your signal. Speakers do not like square waves very much. Get a digital multi meter and use it (search the forum for Gain Setting) and you would be fine even with way more pwer than the sub should support...

If so it is about to get resolved.

Isobaric will REQUIRE twice the power as a single woof setup...

Man I hate that store, but I guess for this I will go...

Duplicolor is only paint to match the outside of your car no? How about the bedliner, are you saying to goto the W for that too?

Yep, I get the same, go for it.

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I have a tendency to over do everything, especially when I don't know. Actually when I finally measure the response of my fronts, I will be using a 24bit, 20Mhz (yep MHz) data acquisition card and a B&K mic to time align/flatten the response in my car. Don't really need that accuracy, but when you have it you use it. Being that I have never built a crossover, that may be as overbuilt and as interesting as well. Any recommendations on what else I should go overboard on??? Oh, and Acidburn I love the Avatar!!!!

Overengineered, I am sure. I have never done this before and read too many blogs where the recommendation was 14-15 layers without realizing that they weren't using 2oz mat. Oops, guess it didn't need to be an inch thick but I guess the box flexing coloration should be minimized. The box has 5.5 gallons of resin in it, at least 14 yards of 2oz mat, and a bunch of mdf (of course including a buch that I trimmed off) It is damn heavy now, but once I add in a 33lb driver I think it will be pretty close to 150lbs--more than twice as heavy as my 1" mdf double baffle, 3 cuft box. There are a couple light coats of body filler on it now, but I am out of town for a week. As soon as I get home I will get on finishing it. I too realized after the fact I should have rounded that edge, luckily it doesn't pop out too far into the trunk so hopefully I can disguise it pretty good.....Ugh, can't wait to finish and start on the front stage!

Looks cool. If you want to get the flat part shiny, tape off all the incidentals and use a little trivoli compound and a buffing wheel (or dremel buff attachement). It will all be mirrorlike then.

I won't knock Dave either; however, since the quote was so short there is some real important missing info...

Better brace that thing, at resonance it is going to hump!!

Wow. I was going to build custom ones until this post. Go PE!

Thanks. Got my first layer of bondo on a few minutes ago. Going to try and get it sanded and the last layer in the morning as I would love to blow some paint on it. I get on a plane to San Francisco tomorrow and will be gone for a week so letting it setup in the garage is perfect. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I will have some pseudo finsihed pics with paint; however, I am not sure that I want to body fill/sand the whole damn box. Holy crap building these things takes a long time. Chit gets heavy too. 5 gal's of Resin, a few pieces of MDF, bracing and about 8 yards of 2oz matt really has a little weight to it. Add in the 32lb Rl-p and I am sure I will be near 150-200lbs.

Uhh, other than his statement of "we now must switch the 0dB tones for -10dB ones" There are no reasons, nor does it make any sense. Bottom line when you set up your HU, EQ, or amps you don't want any of the above to clip. The post was logical in separating each of the signals independently to make sure that you eliminate the possibility of clipping at each possible source.

Hey, I grew up in Fargo, ND as well...... Anyway, the real profiling while driving occurs based on what car you drive. I got pulled over doing 59 in a 55 and when I asked why I was pulled over since I wasn't speeding the cop made the statement "those BMW's come with built in radar detectors so I am sure you were speeding...." Now that is profiling.

Pic 1 My first real "volume" measurement. Pretty close to what I expedted at about 1.8cuft. Pic 2 Bracing and baffle installed Pic 3 Fleeced!! First layer will dry until tomorrow.....

Ahhh, the Fedex man finally came!!!! I can now build my baffles.

If they end up not matching very well, you could surely add a driver load compensating circuit either via a CR circuit or an L-pad type circuit. Hope they work out without them though! Let us know how it goes.