///M5

Thanks for the links Squeak, will order them in the AM. How about changing the question to good recordings that are worth owning for that purpose? High fidelity and a long drive are sometimes more important than the genre to me anyways...

Waiting for Fedex is like watching grass grow. Aaaarrgh! Should be ready to mount the baffle by tomorrow afternoon when the sub arrives. Here is the current "rectangular" box that it will be going in. By my crude estimations, it will be about 1.65cuft gross which I will limit down to 1.53 and use the old water test to verify. Can't wait to fill her up!

Head gaskets indeed, but they are pretty darn easy to replace on that Toy engine. Boring when it comes to the fun factor. I am definetely into the sleepers. Currently drive an M5, previous two cars were an SHO Taurus with a 9psi supercharger with 462hp, and a blown Lincoln Mark VIII. It is so much fun to tromp midlife crisis buyers' Vipers and Vettes with a plain jane car. No one screws with your system then either.

Hey unfair, you left out the most pound for pound unbeatable in its time engine. The Dodge 2.2l turbo that made its way into the 3200lb Spirit R/T in 1991. 5.6sec to 60 and a 14 sec quarter mile in 1991 with a 3200lb car. 224hp, 214 ft lbs--awesome for its day and even today. I hate the Dodge, but that engine would get my vote as it made that car dance all over the place. The next two runner ups for me aren't on the list either. The Toyota 20/22R--the most unbreakable Japanese engine ever, no power but super reliable. And the VW 1600 that made all those air pumpers so much fun!

My thought on the 10 was that when I went through the math with the Rli 8 / 10 that I could easily fit a single 10 where two 8's wouldn't fit. Of course unless your restricting dimension is the diameter of the speaker. Anyways, grab a pair of the rli 8's or 10's, the customer service from SS should sell it on its own, not to mention the sub.

Hey in your topic it says "pic", I don't see any pictures.... But really, do enjoy your 10's!

1) I bought a cheap DMM at a Microcenter--$5.99. Works very strange, but works (mad I dropped my Fluke) 2) Ouch, as Mike says max gains are not a good thing as most amps will clip at max and your sub won't run so good on a pseudo-square wave 3) On your DVC setup, red to red and blk to blk. Mike referred to a fact that they have been mislabeled perhaps. To check disconnect one of the two and see if it gets louder. 4) Unplug the RCA's from your amp and put the DMM on it. Read the voltage. If you post the answers to my questions before, I am sure that we can help you.

Check these things out: 1) With a cheap DMM, your voltage going into your RCA inputs on your amp 2) The gain/output of your amp to your sub 3) MAKE SURE that the DVC are wired IN PHASE 4) Voltage supply to your amp is within the 11.5-14.4v range If these are all okay, it would be the sub but I am sure you will find out that something is weird in the above.

I like different, and am envious of your horns; however, the active crossover and eq setup will have to wait for the future. That might be another advantage of the Daytons, when I yank them out of the car they can be turned into bookshelves someplace in the house. Thanks for the reply req, but you brought up two new questions for me: 1) How did you like the cheaper set of Dayton's 2) Where would you recommend putting the tweet. My thought was to glass out my kickpanels and put both drivers down there. The mid's wouldn't receive the worlds best angle, but the tweets I would time align with an RTA as much as possible. What would you do?

Have you found any locally you can listent to Robert?

macxx, Where abouts are you located? I haven't ever heard them, which might help...

I know you asked for 8's, but how about a single 10" DVC. For the money you want to spend it gets you a better sub, while having a similar amout of cone area (2 8's ~90", 1 10 ~ 78"insq). Makes for a box the same size if not smaller as well. An Rl-i10 takes less than .75cuft and its depth is 13.9cm. Of course, this is all dependent on the amplifier you are going to push your subs with as would selecting 8's. How are you going to power them?

Actually, never done glass work (I coated a kevlar canoe with resin to cover scratches, but that is it). One of the lessons that I am learning is that I should have done everything so far in the car. The edges kept getting bigger with layers and trimming this stuff is not what I call fun--even with an angle grinder. As for being too big, I actually am running into the opposite problem and am going to have to make it longer--it will receive the water test and be corrected in the end.

Indeed I am not the type of guy who normally pays retail, at least if I can help it at all; however, I am a little scared of buying used speakers as most idiots just thrash their stuff. I do like your ideas and will look around a bit more. I have heard a set of the Rainbows and was pretty impressed and the Dayton drivers have been getting great reviews on home audio forums.

Ah, now the fun really begins. I can't wait. Mine will be here Wednesday and I am no where near ready! Lots of box building to do.....

Big difference between $300 and $500... Anybody else have a thought?

Mold is "thickened". Somewhere between 3/4" and 1"; hope it will support the Rl-p I can't bend it even without the other sides. Driver lands on Wednesday, hope I can get a bunch done before then. Will keep updating as it goes.

Thanks for the faith Bobby! And if you saw the box I am attempting to build now, you would realize that I understand its importance. Next time though I will add the word box-shape to that sentence. Ha.

Indeed, he was helpful. And yes the car is damped like mad. The only other car I have done work on that was worrse was my old Lincoln Mark 8. I sold it to one of my really good friends and with a W7 and 1000w it sounded good, but loud wouldn't be the word that I would use. Mike shipped my sub today. I have 10 layers on my mold and will add another 7 tonight--not going to let it flex if at all possible.

If you have a 2ft box gross (without port and sub) and you put a sub in it, the reduced displacement will cause the port to need to be longer. If you have a complete box with sub and port tuned to 29Hz and you want to raise the tuning frequency you would shorten the port. Rules of thumb, from a nominal design: 1) the smaller you make the box the longer your port will be for a set frequency 2) The higher the tuning frequency the shorter the port Kent, please tell me I am right?

My gut feel is on a sub-box it ain't that big of a deal. At 100Hz, sort of your top end for the shortest wavelength that your sub will be playing is about 3m or 12ft long. I would find it hard to believe that you will have a lot of destructive interference coming from an odd shaped enclosure. In fact, I would guess it would be even less likely than a square box--it may happen in more frequencies in your box but have less of an effect overall. Just a guess, box building is new to me. Anyone think differently?

Sweeeeeet. Just hit the send button to Mike on my order! I am going to try and get my mold reinforced tonight as well, once I start to integrate the MDF I will post some more pics. Thanks again, I will put a shout out to Aaron

assuming the box is 2.733 cuft and the port being 4" round an internal I get: 1 of 4" port -->13.39" (port volume 0.097, box 2.636) 2 of 4" port-->36.13" (port volume 0.525, box 2.208) DISCLAIMER: Please do not use these without checking with someone, I just used the BCAE calculator and did not verify that they are right. On a positive note--and the reason for my response--the order of magnitude between the two is surely about right so if we were asking to try and get your box closer to the recommended 2.25ft using dual ports will get you closer!

Any thoughts on the preferred firing direction? Firing at the other quarter, or a little more angled towards the "ski passthrough".

Sweet, I will order the sub up tomorrow in the AM, hopefully the shipping won't take too long! And for the bracket, not the first bit of fun I have ran into in this car...damn thing is built like it was meant to be watertight.