firey_kimchi

Not yet. Been busy with work. I know...excuses. I'm getting the wood today. MDF in Japan/Okinawa is expensive. $50 for a 3' x 6' of 18mm (.70 inches). I'm going to invert the OEMs. I have 2 PPI PC1400s collecting dust that I'm going to push them with. So much for having space in my wagon.

Here's a few pics...

I would not have thought about that. Thx!

I was looking at building a box that's 35 x 12 x 12. This would give me 2.13 ft^3. That would be roughly 1.06 ft^3 per sub. The recommended volume, per the website, is .5 - .6. I researched on the internet and saw a guy had one in a 1.0 ft^3 enclosure with a radiator. I was going to invert the OEMs on top of the box with the passive radiators facing aft. I don't know the displacement of the radiators. I've looked on TC Sounds' website and searched the web with no luck. Does anybody know the displacement of the radiators? The website did say to use one 10" or 12" radiator, but if you wanted low bass, to use 2 radiators. Does this design sound reasonable or should I just stick to one radiator per sub? I forgot to mention earlier that I listen to a little bit of everything, from classical to rock to rap to country.

So if I went with 3 passive radiators, the box volume will be bigger than recommended. Will that have any effect on the sound that's produced?

I have a question for you all. I found a guy that used to own a car audio shop back in the day. He's got the whole Hifonics VII and VII series. I'm interested in a series VII Zeus. It's hard to find people that will ship to military personnel overseas and he's willing to do this. He wants $700. It's new in box. I remember when I paid $1/watt. Does this still apply for a classic amp that's 20yrs old? I'm not trying to rip this guy off or low ball him but I was thinking $500 - $600 max! Am I being cheap? All inputs are appreciated.

USPS is the only company that will ship to a military address at a "decent" price. If it goes UPS/FedEx, it will be international and the price is expensive. I was saying earlier that finding people to ship to an APO address is hard because they get worried about the customs form and don't want to take the time to fill it out. My main question is is the asking price ($700) too much for a NIB VII Zeus? What would you pay for it? I'm trying to get some responses to see if it's worth it. I know Zed's newer Class D amps run $600 - $700 (Minotaur/Leviathan). I have a Kronos already but would like a Hifonics VII Zeus. I've never had a Hifonics and want to test it out.

S.DeYoung (12" DCON x2)- Excellent communication and fast shipping. His packaging job was amazing! He's the man!

PM'd

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I have a RE SE10" just sitting around waiting for a box...actually there's 4, but who's counting?

There's 4 for sale on eBay. md42, Car Amplifiers. Great deals on eBay!

having trouble loading pics...any help?

Military...F-16 aircraft mechanic

I know to add up all my amps fuses and the total is my in-line fuse size. My question is about fusing at the db block. I've read in a previous thread on here to fuse under never over( i.e. 180A = 150A). I have an amp (US Amps USA-150) that requires fusing at 75A. It has 2 inputs for positive and 2 inputs for the ground wires. Can I use a 40A + 30A = 70A fuse in my db block or will it affect anything being different sizes and under the fuse rating? Thanks and have a Happy New Year!

Thanks for the help. I'll hook it up and see how it works. Hopefully the fuses hold and don't blow.

When I lived in Alaska, the car audio shop that did one of my installs had the inline fuse at 80A and the db block had 2 x 40A = 80A. After reading the posts on this forum, I'm not sure if that was a good idea...

I just got my Batcap 800 today. The instructions say NOT to ground it to the chasis! Does this seem strange to anybody else? I've used caps before and have always grounded them to the chasis. It says to wire it in parallel to the amp. If it's 25% cap & 75% battery why wouldn't you ground it to the chasis? A background on my system...Optima Yellow Top (38Ah) under the hood, Big 3 (1/0), stock alt (80A), going to run 1/0 back to Batcap 800, (1999) US Amps 150X bridged to RE 10D2 in a sealed box .61 ft^3. HU is Panasonic DFX-85. This is all in a 1996 Honda Orthia (Civic wagon). I want to be able to swap my system out without too many upgrades. I have 2 O/S US Amps 200's that I want to install to power 4 RE 10D2 in a ported 5.0ft^3 box. Any thoughts on the grounding issue? Thanks in advance.

...what is a long time...a couple hours, a day, a week, etc. This car is my daily driver. I'd hate to come out and find a dead car and 2 dead batts!

What size fuse do I need from the batt to the batcap? Do I fuse for the wire size or the amp? I'm running a fused block from the batcap to my amp. Thanks again for the help.

I've finally decided to join the rest of the world and add my .02 on forums. I've been viewing posts on this site since '99. I collect O/S US Amps. Some might say I'm addicted...I have 18 sitting in my spare bedroom! I'm in the military stationed in Japan. Getting good deals on audio equipment here is hard to come by. Shipping here gets even trickier. Just wanted to introduce myself and say "Hello."

To fill you in...I'm stationed in Japan and have a 1996 Honda Orthia wagon (equivalent to a Civic or CRX). The battery is very small! My alternator is factory. I've done the Big 3. I have a Panasonic CQDFX85 head unit, (2) RE Audio 6.5 two-way speakers powered by a US Amps USA-50 and a 10" MB Quart DWE-254 sub powered by a US Amps USA-100. My lights don't dim when listening to music. They start to dim when I'm sitting at a light and I click my window button up. I'm going to replace my MB Quart with a RE Audio 10" SE10D2 and use a US Amps USA-150X to power it. I know this will probably cause my lights to dim alot! I've had a US Amps Optimizer sitting in my closet for 6 yrs and want to install it. I'm wondering if that will fix my dimming problem and have enough power to satisfy my amps or do I need to get a 2nd battery?

same time