Jump to content

firey_kimchi

Members
  • Content Count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

firey_kimchi last won the day on September 28 2017

firey_kimchi had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

23 Very good

1 Follower

About firey_kimchi

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 12/03/1976

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    firey_kimchi@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Japan

Recent Profile Visitors

5,677 profile views
  1. firey_kimchi

    Wanted: SSA IC2200.1

    Thanks! I don't have Facebook but got in contact with him.
  2. firey_kimchi

    Wanted: SSA IC2200.1

    Looking for a new or slightly used IC2200.1 in good condition physically and mechanically. Thanks!
  3. firey_kimchi

    OG 12" ICON

    Thanks Lithium for the advice. I thought about swapping the outputs and using the HPF from the HU and the LPF on the amp but then I wouldn't be using the sub output. Would it really matter if I didn't connect the sub to the sub output and just connected it to the rear? Right now I have it connected to the sub output with my amp's gain set (with 40 Hz 0 dB test tone) with the sub level at +15 (0 ~ +15, pg 13). If I connected it to the rear outputs, I wouldn't be able to increase /decrease the sub level if it was too loud or not loud enough. I guess I could use the fader to try and control it. I still have some time before the MDF gets here (takes about 2 weeks). If the difference in power between the 2 amps is going to be negligible, I might just swap amps (probably the easiest fix). The temps are freezing and I hate working on the car in the cold weather without a garage.
  4. firey_kimchi

    OG 12" ICON

    Well, almost 4 years later and I'm finally going to build the ported box for the ICON! I'm using the pre-designed enclosure plans from the SSA site (2.5ft^3 @ 30 Hz) and am waiting for the MDF to be delivered. It's going to be in the same vehicle (JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon Twin Turbo, stock alternator (100A), Bosch Hightec Premium AGM batt, big 3 (1/0), Alpine CDA-9887, and Kicker Impulse i525 coaxials). My question is: my current amp is a MMATS HiFi 4250 and it doesn't have a SSF. The ICON will be wired to 4 ohms and will see ~800W. I've read numerous threads and articles on SSFs and there hasn't been a definitive "yes" or "no" if it's needed or not. Some say for smaller subs (8") it is and others say for lower tuned enclosures (20-30Hz) it's not. Will powering the ICON (rated for 950W RMS), tuned at 30Hz, without a SSF be an issue with the given power? I listen to all genres of music but mainly old school rap, dubstep, and rock. My other option would be to power it with my SSA IC150.4 on Ch3/4 bridged (~550W @4 ohms) since that has a SSF. Previously, I had that amp powering it in the 1.1ft^3 sealed box but didn't sound like it was giving it enough power. Will ~550W be enough power in a ported enclosure? I appreciate all the assistance. Thanks!
  5. firey_kimchi

    Adire Audio Brahma MkII Noise

    I put it in my 1.1ft^3 sealed enclosure for my Icon and it didn't make the ticking noise. Thanks!
  6. I bought a pair of used 12" Brahma MkII subs a few months back. When I hooked them up, the one has a slight noise to it (the other sub has no issues). At low volumes it wasn't really noticeable but with the volume turned up it was definitely noticeable. The noise originally sounded like the dust cap was loose (slight ticking sound). I checked the dust cap and it is secure. I pushed down on the cone to see if there was any noise/coil rub but there wasn't. The voice coils read like they should (1.5/1.6 ohms). I noticed that there was excess glue where the cone meets the spider (at the 1 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 7 o'clock positions) and the glue is pretty hard. If I put a little pressure on the spider near those areas when the sub is playing, the noise goes away. The spider is not cut. Otherwise, the Brahma is in excellent condition. Is there anything I can do to fix the noise? Or will it not matter when it's in an enclosure? I'm really hoping it doesn't need a recone. IMG_7095.HEIC IMG_9300.HEIC IMG_7570.HEIC
  7. Updates? How did these sound?
  8. firey_kimchi

    Enclosure Design for SSA Icon 12

    You'll love the ICON! The SSA website has pre-designed enclosures (for free) listed towards the bottom of their site. http://www.ssaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/icon
  9. firey_kimchi

    Not a newbie, more like an veteran that's been out

    Glad to have you back!
  10. firey_kimchi

    Thiele-Small Parameters Database?

    I couldn't find the paper manual but I did find these on my laptop. Hope this helps! * Mounting Depth - 6.5” * Mounting Hole Diameter - 11” * Overall Diameter - 12.5” * Bolt Hole Circle - 11.75” * Motor Width - 6.25” * Motor Depth - 3.25” * Basket Depth - 3.25” * Displacement - 0.15 cu. ft. * Weight - 21 lbs. T/S Parameters: * Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.49 * Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.5 * Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.44 * Free Air Resonance -Fs: 25.1 Hz * Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 72.9 liters * One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm * Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 86.1 dB SPL * Effective Piston Area -Sd: 480 cm^2 * Force Factor -Bl: 17.7 * Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 600 W * Recommended Enclosures: * Sealed Compact: 0.75cf * Sealed Optimal: 1.0cf * Ported Compact: 1.5cf tuned @ 35Hz * Ported Optimal: 2.0cf tuned @ 33Hz
  11. firey_kimchi

    Thiele-Small Parameters Database?

    I used t o have a few of those. Let me look and see if I can find the orange manual/specs...
  12. Bad news...the amp is not repairable. It's got a Tripath chip in it so it's nothing more than a large paper weight now. It looks like the SSA IC150.4 will be my new amp. Hopefully it'll have enough power for the ICON.
  13. I shot the grounds again, inspected the PT-1100 for broken pieces and touching wires but everything looked good (car side and amp side). I decided to hook up one of my known good USA-200s that I had just pulled out of my system. I had a 40 amp fuse in the distro block and hooked up one set of power/ground wires to the amp along with the remote wire. Everything read good with the battery hooked up (grounds read 0.0 - 0.1 ohm, 12.65V at the amp, and 0.0V at the remote wire). I started the car, with the stereo off, and it read 14.24V at the amp and 0.0V at the remote wire. When I turned the stereo on, the fuse did not blow.The remote wire read 13.45V. I shut it down and disconnected the first set of power/ground wires and hooked up the second set of power/ground wires. The results were the exact same as the first time. I decided to bring the PT-1100 back out and hook it up. The grounds read good, the amp read 12.65V with the battery hooked up, 14.34V with the car on (stereo off), 0.0V at the remote wire. As soon as I turned the stereo on, the fuses exploded (not burned, not popped but EXPLODED). I had glass and fuse particles all over the trunk area with white powder marks on the distro block and amp rack. My USA-50 fuse was unharmed and good to go. I looked at the PT-1100's board and there was nothing noticeably wrong with it. Now, I'm 100% sure it's the amp so I didn't hook it up to my power supply. It looks like I'll be sending it in for repair. In the meantime, I'll hook up an SSA IC150.4...maybe permanently!
  14. The wires were connected correctly. I checked my grounds again and they were good (.1 ohm). I put (2) 35A fuses in the distro block and moved my grounds back to the original grounding points. They measured 0.1 ohm. I hooked up power and it read 12.85V at the amp. I started the car, with the stereo off, and the fuses were good. It read 13.9V at my amp. As soon as I turned the stereo on, the (2) 35A fuses popped but my 25A fuse to my front amp was good. In my previous set-up, I used a tap on my remote wire at the head unit so I would have 2 wires for my amps. This is how my set-up has always been. The remote wires went to my front amp and then to one of my sub amps. The second sub amp had the remote wire connected to the first sub amp and I never had any issues. The PT-1100 has the remote wire connected directly to the amp from the stereo (as does my USA-50). Now, when my stereo turns on, the PT-1100 fuses pop. Should I use a jumper wire from the front amp since it doesn't have any issues? I had to stop troubleshooting because it started to rain.
  15. A little more info... The amps are in my spare tire housing area mounted on a 3/4" thick Birch cutout to match the tire housing area. When I set my gains, I didn't have the PT-1100 secured on the board with screws. Later, I screwed the amp to the board with 1/4" thick rubber pads between the amp foot and the mounting surface to raise it up for better air flow and vibration dampening. I checked and the screws weren't touching any metal in the housing area (that I could see). I might try and hook it up again, unsecured, and see if it still blows the fuses. I'm going to start using smaller sized fuses (35A) because I have a lot of them if they keep blowing. Any thoughts?
×