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firey_kimchi

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firey_kimchi last won the day on September 28 2017

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About firey_kimchi

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  • Birthday 12/03/1976

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    firey_kimchi@yahoo.com

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    Okinawa, Japan

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  1. Bad news...the amp is not repairable. It's got a Tripath chip in it so it's nothing more than a large paper weight now. It looks like the SSA IC150.4 will be my new amp. Hopefully it'll have enough power for the ICON.
  2. I shot the grounds again, inspected the PT-1100 for broken pieces and touching wires but everything looked good (car side and amp side). I decided to hook up one of my known good USA-200s that I had just pulled out of my system. I had a 40 amp fuse in the distro block and hooked up one set of power/ground wires to the amp along with the remote wire. Everything read good with the battery hooked up (grounds read 0.0 - 0.1 ohm, 12.65V at the amp, and 0.0V at the remote wire). I started the car, with the stereo off, and it read 14.24V at the amp and 0.0V at the remote wire. When I turned the stereo on, the fuse did not blow.The remote wire read 13.45V. I shut it down and disconnected the first set of power/ground wires and hooked up the second set of power/ground wires. The results were the exact same as the first time. I decided to bring the PT-1100 back out and hook it up. The grounds read good, the amp read 12.65V with the battery hooked up, 14.34V with the car on (stereo off), 0.0V at the remote wire. As soon as I turned the stereo on, the fuses exploded (not burned, not popped but EXPLODED). I had glass and fuse particles all over the trunk area with white powder marks on the distro block and amp rack. My USA-50 fuse was unharmed and good to go. I looked at the PT-1100's board and there was nothing noticeably wrong with it. Now, I'm 100% sure it's the amp so I didn't hook it up to my power supply. It looks like I'll be sending it in for repair. In the meantime, I'll hook up an SSA IC150.4...maybe permanently!
  3. The wires were connected correctly. I checked my grounds again and they were good (.1 ohm). I put (2) 35A fuses in the distro block and moved my grounds back to the original grounding points. They measured 0.1 ohm. I hooked up power and it read 12.85V at the amp. I started the car, with the stereo off, and the fuses were good. It read 13.9V at my amp. As soon as I turned the stereo on, the (2) 35A fuses popped but my 25A fuse to my front amp was good. In my previous set-up, I used a tap on my remote wire at the head unit so I would have 2 wires for my amps. This is how my set-up has always been. The remote wires went to my front amp and then to one of my sub amps. The second sub amp had the remote wire connected to the first sub amp and I never had any issues. The PT-1100 has the remote wire connected directly to the amp from the stereo (as does my USA-50). Now, when my stereo turns on, the PT-1100 fuses pop. Should I use a jumper wire from the front amp since it doesn't have any issues? I had to stop troubleshooting because it started to rain.
  4. A little more info... The amps are in my spare tire housing area mounted on a 3/4" thick Birch cutout to match the tire housing area. When I set my gains, I didn't have the PT-1100 secured on the board with screws. Later, I screwed the amp to the board with 1/4" thick rubber pads between the amp foot and the mounting surface to raise it up for better air flow and vibration dampening. I checked and the screws weren't touching any metal in the housing area (that I could see). I might try and hook it up again, unsecured, and see if it still blows the fuses. I'm going to start using smaller sized fuses (35A) because I have a lot of them if they keep blowing. Any thoughts?
  5. Hey guys, I need your help. I decided to change out my substage and now I keep blowing fuses in the distro block after I start my car. Here's my old set-up: Vehicle: JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (Twin Turbo) Battery: Bosch Premium (American Bosch Platinum S5 equivalent) Big 3: Streetwires Ultra Flow 1/0 H/U: Alpine CDA-9887 Front Speakers: Kicker Impulse i525 Amp: US Amps USA-50 Subs: TC Sounds OEM 10 (x2) Amps: US Amps USA-200 (x2) **NEW Substage: Sub: 12" SSA ICON Amp: US Amps PT-1100 I've got 1/0 going from my battery (200A fuse) to my trunk and running into a 3-way distro block (fuse sizes are 25A, 60A, and 60A). From there, I've got (3) 8 gauge wires going to all 3 amps with 8 gauge grounds per amp. I've never had any problems or blown any fuses in the past 8 years with this electrical set-up. I decided to replace the OEM 10s with a classic 12" ICON and use my PT-1100 (2 power/2 ground inputs) to power it. When I removed all USA-200s, I noticed both grounds were all corroded on the car side (Okinawa weather). I tried to clean up that area with sandpaper and a Dremel but the area was pitting so I drilled 2 new ground holes (about 5 inches from the original grounding points) and sanded/used the Dremel to clean the area up. I cleaned up the USA-50's grounding point while I was at it, too. Afterwards, I covered all the grounds with RTV to prevent rust/corrosion. After I got everything hooked back up, I started the car and set the gain on the PT-1100. The amp was working (green power light stayed on). The (2) 60A fuses in the distro bock were fine. I wanted to set the low pass crossover so I used my CC-1. Right after I started setting the crossover, I noticed the low battery light on the CC-1 so I shut everything down and got a new 9V battery. When I started everything back up, I was having trouble getting the CC-1signal light to stay on (flash green then red). It was late at night so I decided to call it quits for the night and would start the next morning. This morning I started the car and turned on the CC-1 but I wasn't getting the signal light. I looked for the amp's green power light but it was not on so I looked at the fuses. Both 60A fuses were blown. The amp didn't smell like anything burnt/blew. The 25A fuse for my USA-50 was good. I swapped out both blown fuses and re-connected my battery (fuses were good). I started my car and went back to look at the distro block and both fuses blew again. I unmounted the PT-1100 and inspected it to see if something was burnt or damaged. The amp was good. I took it inside my house and hooked it up to my power supply and it was working without issues. I checked all the grounds for the Big 3 and the grounds going to the amps (0.0 - 0.1). The only thing I did different was moved the 2 grounds (5" from their original ground points) but they're reading 0.1 (good). What do I do next?
  6. firey_kimchi

    GCON replacement ETA?

    Any updates to the release of the Icons?
  7. firey_kimchi

    Hello all, how goes it?

    Welcome. You've come to the right place!
  8. firey_kimchi

    GCON replacement ETA?

    Do you think these will be ready before the end of the Black Friday deals?
  9. firey_kimchi

    SSAFriendsandFamilyAmps

    I just purchased a pair of their amps (2200.1/150.4) to add to my SSA collection. Had some issues placing the order on the website but Aaron and Josh took care of me. No one beats SSA's customer service! Thanks again guys!
  10. firey_kimchi

    Happy 40th Birthday Aaron Clinton!

    Happy Birthday! 40's not that bad...
  11. Sorry for the horrible drawing...
  12. So I ran the both power and ground wires straight from the one battery (not grounded to the chassis) to the head unit. Measured voltage first before hooking up the stereo...12.92V. Connected the rest of the wires and no pops, smoke, or burning smell. Everything works! Now, the stereo doesn't turn off after the vehicle is off and key removed from the ignition. The ACC and antenna wires are tapped into the old remote wire for the old stereo. It reads -12.92V with key in the ignition and in the "ACC/ON" position, and 12.99V when the vehicle is running. We also noticed the fan can be turned on/off after the vehicle is off and key removed from the ignition. When he turns the fan off, the stereo turns off, too. I'm going to work on it again tomorrow. Any ideas...??????
  13. My buddy got back and I went over there and shot some wires. I did find one that was 11.92V (with key in ignition turned to ACC). I think it was a remote wire to the old stereo. I used a wire tap and connected it to the remote (blue) and 12V ignition (red) wires on the stereo harness. I didn't use the converter. I thought I was good to go... Mistake #1- I told my buddy to connect a ground wire from the battery negative terminal to the frame. I should have checked after he was finished. He connected it to the 2nd battery negative terminal (which made my voltage 24V instead of 12V, correct?) Mistake #2- I was rushing and didn't check the voltage before hooking the battery back up. Needless to say when I connected the battery back up it took about 2 seconds before we heard 2 pops and saw white smoke coming out of the head unit. The inline fuse didn't pop nor did the fuse in the back of the head unit. So my question is, if I run a ground wire from the 1st battery negative (which is connected to the 2nd battery positive) to the chassis, will this be the fix so I don't smoke check another head unit?
  14. My buddy is mountain climbing (Mt Rainier) so I'll have to wait until he gets back to check the wires again.
  15. M5, Can you explain the parallel and series a little further? I like simple...Do you mean that I can use one of the 12V batteries positive (the overall 24V positive) and negative (the negative connected to the other battery's positive in the series configuration) without effecting charging and not need the converter? Where do I get a 12V wire for the ACC so not too have constant power to the stereo? Or the 12V battery positive (overall 24V positive) and use the vehicle frame as the ground for 12V and use the converter for the ignition wire? I measured the voltage of all the wires (in the connectors) going to and coming off the ignition on the steering wheel and it read 27V. I think my dad's Galaxy had 200,000 miles on it? He just drove it in the summer, usually to go golfing. I used to call it "the tank" because of it's size. I did like cruising with the top down!
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