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firey_kimchi

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Posts posted by firey_kimchi

  3. Posted

    Very nice!!! Love the red port.

    I feel ya on MDF prices. In Japan, sheets are smaller (3' x 6') and cost almost $80/sheet! I'm also looking forward to the release of the Evil crossovers. Where on the door cards are you going to mount the tweeters? I originally planned to mount mine on the door card but ended up getting some pods and put them on the a-pillar.

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  5. Posted

    Welcome back! Can't wait to see your build progress. I have a 2012 Subaru Forester and did almost the exact same thing (evil tweets in the A-pillar, 6.5 Evils in front and rear doors ran off SSA IC150.4) but have a SSA Icon 12 in the cargo area. That Evil 15" is going to destroy your car, lol.

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  8. Posted

    First time going active and need some help with aiming tweeters. My vehicle is a JDM '12 Subaru Forester XS. H/U is Alpine CDA-9887.  I've got SSA Evil tweeters in my A-pillars (in swiveling metal pods) and SSA Evil 6.5 mids in the front and rear doors. They're all being ran off a SSA IC150.4. Tweeters are on CH 1/2 and mids (x4) are on CH 3/4. Where should the tweeters be pointed/aimed? I've read several articles but they all say something different (point at the driver, point at opposite headrests, aim between seats up at the headliner, etc). Is it just trial and error? Anyone with these tweeters or helped with a system with these have any advice? Thanks.

    Oh yeah, currently the sub is an OG SSA 12" ICON ported (2.5ft^3 @ 30hz)  but I might change to 2 12" Adire Audio Brahma Mk II sealed later.

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  12. Posted · Edited by firey_kimchi

    From what I was told, the 1800 woofers site isn't correct as they haven't updated it yet to match the SSA site. I wanted another IC2200.1 too.

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  15. Posted

    Thanks Lithium for the advice. I thought about swapping the outputs and using the HPF from the HU and the LPF on the amp but then I wouldn't be using the sub output. Would it really matter if I didn't connect the sub to the sub output and just connected it to the rear? Right now I have it connected to the sub output with my amp's gain set (with 40 Hz  0 dB test tone) with the sub level at +15 (0 ~ +15, pg 13). If I connected it to the rear outputs, I wouldn't be able to increase /decrease the sub level if it was too loud or not loud enough. I guess I could use the fader to try and control it. I still have some time before the MDF gets here (takes about 2 weeks). If the difference in power between the 2 amps is going to be negligible, I might just swap amps (probably the easiest fix). The temps are freezing and I hate working on the car in the cold weather without a garage.

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  16. Posted

    Well, almost 4 years later and I'm finally going to build the ported box for the ICON! I'm using the pre-designed enclosure plans from the SSA site (2.5ft^3 @ 30 Hz) and am waiting for the MDF to be delivered. It's going to be in the same vehicle (JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon Twin Turbo, stock alternator (100A), Bosch Hightec Premium AGM batt, big 3 (1/0), Alpine CDA-9887, and Kicker Impulse i525 coaxials).

    My question is: my current amp is a MMATS HiFi 4250 and it doesn't have a SSF. The ICON will be wired to 4 ohms and will see ~800W. I've read numerous threads and articles on SSFs and there hasn't been a definitive "yes" or "no" if it's needed or not. Some say for smaller subs (8") it is and others say for lower tuned enclosures (20-30Hz) it's not. Will powering the ICON (rated for 950W RMS), tuned at 30Hz, without a SSF be an issue with the given power? I listen to all genres of music but mainly old school rap, dubstep, and rock.

    My other option would be to power it with my SSA IC150.4 on Ch3/4 bridged (~550W @4 ohms) since that has a SSF. Previously, I had that amp powering it in the 1.1ft^3 sealed box but didn't sound like it was giving it enough power. Will ~550W be enough power in a ported enclosure?

    I appreciate all the assistance. Thanks!

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  18. Posted

    I bought a pair of used 12" Brahma MkII subs a few months back. When I hooked them up, the one has a slight noise to it (the other sub has no issues). At low volumes it wasn't really noticeable but with the volume turned up it was definitely noticeable. The noise originally sounded like the dust cap was loose (slight ticking sound). I checked the dust cap and it is secure. I pushed down on the cone to see if there was any noise/coil rub but there wasn't. The voice coils read like they should (1.5/1.6 ohms). I noticed that there was excess glue where the cone meets the spider (at the 1 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 7 o'clock positions) and the glue is pretty hard. If I put a little pressure on the spider near those areas when the sub is playing, the noise goes away. The spider is not cut. Otherwise, the Brahma is in excellent condition. Is there anything I can do to fix the noise? Or will it not matter when it's in an enclosure? I'm really hoping it doesn't need a recone.

    IMG_7095.HEIC

    IMG_9300.HEIC

    IMG_7570.HEIC

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  22. Posted

     

    I couldn't find the paper manual but I did find these on my laptop. Hope this helps!

    * Mounting Depth - 6.5”

    * Mounting Hole Diameter - 11”

    * Overall Diameter - 12.5”

    * Bolt Hole Circle - 11.75”

    * Motor Width - 6.25”

    * Motor Depth - 3.25”

    * Basket Depth - 3.25”

    * Displacement - 0.15 cu. ft.

    * Weight - 21 lbs.

    T/S Parameters:

    * Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.49

    * Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.5

    * Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.44

    * Free Air Resonance -Fs: 25.1 Hz

    * Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 72.9 liters

    * One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm

    * Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 86.1 dB SPL

    * Effective Piston Area -Sd: 480 cm^2  

    * Force Factor -Bl: 17.7

    * Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 600 W 

    * Recommended Enclosures:

    * Sealed Compact: 0.75cf

    * Sealed Optimal: 1.0cf

    * Ported Compact: 1.5cf tuned @ 35Hz

    * Ported Optimal: 2.0cf tuned @ 33Hz

     

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  25. Posted

    I shot the grounds again, inspected the PT-1100 for broken pieces and touching wires but everything looked good (car side and amp side). I decided to hook up one of my known good USA-200s that I had just pulled out of my system. I had a 40 amp fuse in the distro block and hooked up one set of power/ground wires to the amp along with the remote wire. Everything read good with the battery hooked up (grounds read 0.0 - 0.1 ohm, 12.65V at the amp, and 0.0V at the remote wire). I started the car, with the stereo off, and it read 14.24V at the amp and 0.0V at the remote wire. When I turned the stereo on, the fuse did not blow.The remote wire read 13.45V. I shut it down and disconnected the first set of power/ground wires and hooked up the second set of power/ground wires. The results were the exact same as the first time. I decided to bring the PT-1100 back out and hook it up. The grounds read good, the amp read 12.65V with the battery hooked up, 14.34V with the car on (stereo off), 0.0V at the remote wire. As soon as I turned the stereo on, the fuses exploded (not burned, not popped but EXPLODED). I had glass and fuse particles all over the trunk area with white powder marks on the distro block and amp rack. My USA-50 fuse was unharmed and good to go. 

    I looked at the PT-1100's board and there was nothing noticeably wrong with it. Now, I'm 100% sure it's the amp so I didn't hook it up to my power supply. It looks like I'll be sending it in for repair. In the meantime, I'll hook up an SSA IC150.4...maybe permanently!

     

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