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altoncustomtech

SLOW build on a 2001 GMC Jimmy

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well, if work fine for u then that's good.

Just tryin to shift your decisions if you hadn't purchased yet.

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I was lazy and went wt the coaxial speakers lol.

I was talking with the guys at cdt audio and they told me

I have an alpine type r 6.5 and cdt 8" sub, was wondering would it be better to put both speakers lower in the door?

The 6.5 is in the stock location which is higher up(98 navigator), but the 8 is going to have to be placed lower due to clearing issues regardless.

Should i patch up the stock hole and just put them both at the bottom of the door?

Thanks in advance

It’s never good to have speakers away from each other and high in a door is also no good

JG

CDT support

:ughdunno: Not trying to sound like a dick, wait it's my thread what do I care, and this post has to do with my build how?

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umm u putting speakers in ur door?

just spreading info 'TRYING' to be helpfull :ehh:

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Sorry about that I was having a bad day yesterday..... :suicide-santa:

The tweeters are actually VERY close to the mid on this thing. While it can be a problem to have a big distance between them effecting response along the lines of timing between the tweet and mid and cancellation issues both affecting staging and imaging, on this particular setup they're about as close as they can get without it being some sort of coax. The tweeter is only ~2" above the mid and they image quite well. I don't agree with what those guys told you about having the drivers high up on the door. If that was truly a problem then everyone who has active setups with the full ranges or components installed in their A-pillars would suffer problems from what they said. Even though separating the drivers (ex: mid & tweet) can cause problems, like anything else it's completely install dependent. My van for example, has the mids in the factory locations low in the door and the tweeters up on the A pillars right next to the windshield. After three weeks of playing with placements and phasing I found that configuration yielded the best results without doing completely custom fab work.

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You've got me worried now, I had planned to cut out a hole in my door panels to flush mount my RSD tweets. Of course they will not be permanent though and hopefully, I will be stepping up to something a bit nicer someday. I'm second guessing the cutting of my door panels now, I don't want a hole in them that most other tweeters' flush mount cups will be unable to fit.

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You've got me worried now, I had planned to cut out a hole in my door panels to flush mount my RSD tweets. Of course they will not be permanent though and hopefully, I will be stepping up to something a bit nicer someday. I'm second guessing the cutting of my door panels now, I don't want a hole in them that most other tweeters' flush mount cups will be unable to fit.

Yeah, it's a problem I sure as hell didn't foresee. A little custom work and it can be remedied tho. I got lucky with the Type R cups being handy, but I was fully ready to build adapters for it. Have you tried using double sided tape and sticking them around a few different places first? I would suggest doing that and making sure that's where they sound the best to you, then make the decision whether to cut the panels or not and whether or not you could live with slightly less that optimal response to save from having to cut the holes.

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I could for sure in this vehicle, it's just a 4x4 toy and I'll be using it to compete in spl contests all year next year but the mid/tweeter response is not so important, as long as it will sound better than coax in the factory hole, I'll be happy. I was hoping to make it look good by flush mounting in the panel but if it will make it tough to change up, I'd rather find an alternative since I don't know of anywhere to buy replacement tweeters to match these (or at least fit in the flush mount cups).

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Okay, finally got to install some of the Damp Pro I won in a contest. Gotta say the stuff is really quite nice. I only got to put some on the passenger door but it made for a nice A-B comparison with the untreated drivers door. Surprisingly there was a VERY noticeable difference in the sound between the drivers and passenger doors that I'll sum up as cleaner sounding bass and midrange and a feelable difference in the impact of the bass as well. The best part is I can expect even better results when I get the CCF and MLV installed!!!

Here's the pics of the progress of the installation.

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DSCN0439.jpg

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wondering if sealing all of those holes would make it sound better

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Interesting install ... :popcorn:

I'm working on my doors too ... kinda similar, got my eye on this one ...

Nice Work Sir ... :drink40:

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wondering if sealing all of those holes would make it sound better

It would.... and I would normally have done so. However, I started a thread in the Sound Deadening section about that very topic and believe Don @ SDS is correct that it's not necessary with the proper use of MLV. I'll be covering the door in CCF very soon and ordering the MLV very soon as well. Sealing all the holes only really helps stop the backwave from affecting the front wave, much like an enclosure, but at best it's still a much too large leaky sealed enclosure which doesn't do much to help the sound aside from helping cancellation. I think Don is right and using MLV will be just as effective a solution without making it difficult to work on the door later, and believe me I'll be giving a detailed report on how everything is working with the MLV. :fing34:

Interesting install ... :popcorn:

I'm working on my doors too ... kinda similar, got my eye on this one ...

Nice Work Sir ... :drink40:

Thank you Sir... It's just starting to ramp up, got a LOT more work to do yet... Got the doors to finish deadening, the MDF baffles to complete for the doors, the Bravox CS60K's to install, power & speaker wire to run, an enclosure to build and finish and an amp rack to build and finish....

nice approach bro, keep it up!

Much thanks bro!! :drink40:

The sound deadener is looking good homie!! Keep up the killer work. :fing34:

Thanks dude... I got a good pace going now... :bigok:

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:ohnoes9::ughdunno: what about me :shrug::puzzled::ehh:

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Good info on not sealing the door with deadener. I keep thinking about doing it myself Alton. My hold up is that i have had to replace the door lock and window motor already. If it takes a shit on me again, thats deadener (or sheet metal if i went that far) to be removed and replaced later. Most shops will just throw it out and say "sorry".

Truck looks like its really moving along now. Enjoy your quieter ride. I sure do in mine.

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Really good info on the doors bro :fing34: I'm eager to hear your impressions of how everything sounds after all the deadener is done and once the comps are in.

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Really good info on the doors bro :fing34: I'm eager to hear your impressions of how everything sounds after all the deadener is done and once the comps are in.

Thanks man. I actually have the doors completely deadened now, I need to get the pics uploaded just haven't had time. I still have the PG's in the truck mounted to the factory plastic baffles on HU power, which sucks, but they've never sounded better. The midbass is so much louder, clearer and the midrange so much clearer and better defined that I have to regularly remind myself that I still have to get the MDF baffles built and installed with the Bravox comps on the 125.2 to really hear what the difference can make. It's definitely changed my opinion on the PG's though. I've always thought they weren't bad for the money, but after getting the install closer to PAR they've exceeded my expectations. An amp would really make them go, but they're getting shelved for a future project when the Bravox's go in.

Nice builld, i'm in the process on redoing my front stage on the blazer.

Thank you! Don't skimp on the work for the deadening, it's worth every penny and every drop of sweat and blood it takes to do it.

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Hellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo :peepwall: Anybody home :shrug:

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Okay... So plans have changed a little bit. Instead of using the three SA-8's which I'm selling HERE. I've decided to sell them and go with a single XCON. I'm still debating a little as to whether or not it will be a 10 or a 12, but that's the direction I'm going to head with it at this point. I've still got a ton of work to do to this thing, but I don't think this change will affect much.

Just for fun I drew up a box for the XCON 12 for the Jimmy, thought I'd go ahead and post it up for comments to try to get the build log and the build itself rolling again.

Figured I'd do a plexi window on this too, like the van, to show off that sexy ass of the XCON. This box is 2.54cuft NET with 56sqin of port area tuned to ~33hz.

JimmyXCON12design1.jpg

JimmyXCON12design2.jpg

JimmyXCON12design3.jpg

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:popcorn: I like the new direction bro :drink40: Definitely gotta show that sexy ass of the Xcon :woot: What are you thinking for power.....in case I've missed it?

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Thats a snazzy enclosure design Alton. I like it! Good to see some forward progress! :sleepwerd4:

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