Test 1, 2, 3...

Or simply respond on here either way works.

Not just hate, but I havent seen one person that can show actual proof by testing one and then showing the results that they suck. I have read twenty threads now saying there garbage but not one person who said it actually owned one or at least proved it. Looking at the guts from the SAZ amps and the 2608d looks the same to me! grant it I dont have a SAZ amp in my hands to check the actual components to see if there high quality or the same. Ofc every person who has a SAZ is going to say there high quality components but do they have actual proof where the parts come from? The fact is most if not all parts are from oversee's just some companys hand build them here and som…

Too bad Sundown doesn't have any amps powerful enough...

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2000 wts and 4cubes available. Which one has best clarity and hits harder. Ported box in suv. Any opinions? Plz move this to ssa forum

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unless you run into problems with the coil heating up and the ohm load going up to the point were the sub gets less power ... I dont see how you would not be able to tell the gain from the extra 1000 watts... its a btl.... Just dont play it to high < aka over heating coils and dont play it to low < snapping lead wires... I seen alot of people run 3k to the triple stack btl's and the style before the neo's say what you want but alot of people are doing it... and there subs dont even get hot...

Sent them via USPS in an envelope... should have take only 2 days and this was a week+ ago. Let me know if you get them in the mail or not... if not, Ill put some in a box and send it next day to you.

:mrspam:

Me too bro. He's 17. And his parents bought it brand new. He wishes they got a z71... but o well. And they also have a 03 Silverado extended cab. And a 09 Impala SS. Only buy new. Can you tell they are a chevy family? Lol After this build, he will be doing Flowmaster race40series exhaust. Gonna be sick.

Just bought an ESX Q120.4

True sine wave inverters for that price? He'd need to stay far away from anything with a square wave output. I know true sine wave-capable inverters are out there, heck Radio Shack used to carry them back in the days when they had a catalog, but I don't remember them being very cheap.

I've heard a few subs make a funky sound when more power is applied to them that just doesn't sound like the bass the artist put in the song. On low volumes its fine. On higher volumes It sounds like the sub is puking. I hate that sound and i turn the bass down to when its gone. I've heard it mostly on punchy bass, long drawn out bass is usually fine. What causes this, is it when a sub exceeds its xmax or is that overrated in knowing what the sub sounds like as well? That's my only guess. I haven't heard lots of different subs but all the ones i heard did it.

I know I have a car audio addiction when I have a hundred pounds of primo old-school gear coming from opposite ends of the country, and I've already changed my pland and know I probably won't be using any of it in my install. I know I have a car audio addiction when I buy four head units in a week because each one was way cooler than the last and too cheap to pass up, then realize I'll have a hard time outdoing the Addzest DRX9255 I've been hanging on to for the last year. Hey, at least I'll have choices. I know I have a car audio addiction when I finally score an Alpine 7909, then realize I won't be able to sleep at night knowing the poor old Alpine is a prime target for…

Your buddy is pretty dumb, but you don't need a very big alt for what you have. An alt upgrade without a battery upgrade is kinda pointless so I would add the extra battery first. If you're still having problems, then think about an alt, but the battery makes the biggest difference on transient draw (which your audio system is).

I decided to change my set-up. I want to build a forth order bandpass for my two FI SSD 12"s. I think they are the 2008 model. I am putting in my 1995 Impala SS. I plan on porting it through the back deck. Can anyone help me with the numbers I need. Such as the air space volume for the sealed and ported areas. Also for the port (@ 35 hz). I wanted the box to be tuned to 35 hz. I'm trying to get the MOST out of these subs but with All the sound pushed into the cab and not rattling everything aound in my trunk By the way I will be powering them with a Audiopipe AP18001. And if anyone has done any thing similar in my same type car please post pics. Thanks in advance!!!!!

Right now I have Pioneer TS-A6871R speakers in both front and back. I'm just looking for a sub or 2 to fill the missing bass. If you want to make the biggest SQ difference you'll start by changing those up, then worry about the sub. In the SQ realm the sub is least important part of the equation. I'm content with the speakers that I have right now. Later on if I need better speakers then I will get them...later. For me the sub is important. I wanted a nice sound quality sub for my system. You didn't quite follow. If you want SQ AT ALL your fronts need updating and the rears removing. No sub will help you have any until that is addressed. No real such thing as an SQ…

No, IT DOES NOT WORK. HAVING TWO DRIVERS PLAY THE SAME FREQUENCY RANGE DOES NOT WORK.

Sorry

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...st&p=312114

I would take a Queen over a princess anyday....

why did u post that obd?

Gotta love them B stock nightshades I know on one of mine atfirst when I looked at it I thaught he gave me one that was A stock