General Audio

Ok so I hooked up some LED's in my sub box. These: http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/alm.htm (The 4 bulb ones) I hooked them up twice and they worked both times. One w/ the switch and one w/o the switch. I didn't change ANYTHING and the next day I go to hook them up after putting my sub in the box, and they don't work. Try everything, but they do not work at all. Even tried hooking them directly up to the battery (no bad connections). I think the lights are dead... I guess. My question is, did my problem come from not having the 1 amp fuse they recommend? I mean that would only blow if something bad happened, and I do not understand why the lights would die so easily…

I've got enclosures fiberglassed into the rear quarter panels of my Tahoe, and can't give up any more of my cargo room. I work as a General Contractor, and frequently carry plywood and sheetrock in the back of the truck. My current Celestion AD15H's sound great with the crossover point set at 40HZ, reproduce the low frequencies with great detail, even with the measly 250 watts I'm sending them each through my Lightning Audio 500 watt mono amp (2 ohm load). The only problem, I've found that they have a tendency to "blatt" (for lack of a better term) if I up the crossover point to even 50HZ. Could this be a result of too little power, too small of an enclosure, too high (or…

well... i'm not at home and won't be there for awhile, and i don't have winISD here. i'm just needing someone to find out the port length for me please!!! box is 4 cuft after displacements tuned to 31hz port is 4.5" wide by 12.5" tall all help is greatly appreciated!!

Probably a stupid question but I'm wondering how I would go about hooking up my 15" SSD to my home stereo receiver. I think its a 100 watt per channel receiver @ 4 or 8 ohms. Just wondering if there is any way to do this or is it just stupid.

i have like 3 inches to play with.... this shit sucks.... no way these 8's are going in the damn doors, and i was looking at some cdt comps.. but they dont list depth! im sure its more then 3 inches for a 6.5 mid sub so now what do i do .... does anyone know of a great pair or comps in a 6.5 that will fun 200$ or so?

i have about 5 cubes to work with.. so 18 inch bl? or 15 inch q? ported btw

I have 4 gauge power wire going to my two ppi 2100's. I will be adding a US Amps 100 HC for a sub amp. Can I run 4 gauge to it or do I need to step up to 1/0 gauge? Also what would be the perfect set up? What I mean is, I have a diesel truck with two 750 amp batteries and a 136 amp alt. Will this be ok to run this set up? What needs to be changed? Thanks

hey everyone, love the site, i mostly lurk around and there's some really good info on here. well anyway on to my question, im looking to buy some tweeters to replace my old mb quart tweeters. would like them to blend in with my sound stage now and keep up when i upgrade it too, currently im running a 6" whip audio mid on each door and 2 for rear fill, itll soon be 2 on each door and 2 8"s and the 2 6"s for rear fill when im done with the pods.im not looking to spend more than 50-60 dollars, but if i have too i will lol. i mostly listen to reaggeton, rap and hip hop and sometimes some r&b. i would love to place them where i had my old tweeters, heres a pic.... thanks…

i just want to throw out an overall thank you to everybody here. i have been around this forum for a few months and i have learned more about audio than i dreamed of. the knowledge conveyed and the respect about it is just awesome. so thanks and keep it up. o and happy holidays to all :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap:

Alright so i was messing around with sketchup and i think i have decided on what enclosure designs i want. Specs are not perfect im just aiming for design right now. I want opinions of which you would get or which would work/sound better. Keep in mind its going in a full size standard cab truck #1 #2 #3 (I wont have both ports just didn't know if it would be better to port it on the top or bottom.)

Ok im trying to decide on the wire i should get and i wanted to ask if any of you guys have tried them knu konceptz KLMX cable and like it. I also found 25 foot of monster cable 1/0 for 60 shipped i think im leaning for that unless you guys think the KLMX would work just fine.

I want to use the line out from an Alpine MRP F300 amp to temporarily (1-2mos.) power a mono amp for subs until I get a head w/sub pre-outs. Any suggestions for a good reasonably priced one. This is very temporary. Also, will doing this affect the 4-channel speaker outs of the amp?

well i im south hacken NJ for school and i was wondering any was close by that would let me use their term lab to do some testing on my system after i get it built.....hopefully starting next week.... thanks

im looking for some program where i can like look at songs and see what certain frequencies it's hitting, and boost them... like an audio editing program

Ugh. So i was driving in my car the other day and my speakers sounded all fuzzy like listing to the radio if not worse. Dose anyone know whats wrong with them. im going to take them out and look at them this weekend when i get the time.

Anyone know of a program to make cut sheets for building enclosures?

witch guy is right there is 2 dif opinions lookin for best one thanks http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f27/two-batteries-380297/

After a week or so of research i came to decide on Fi products over Kicker l7s.The only thing is i have so many questions i need answered.I hope im in the right spot for it.Car audio has changed for me over the years.Im now 36 and havent had a good setup since i was 20 or so.So here i go with my list of questions.1. What would be better 2 15s or 1 18?Where can i get help designing a box?"I have a 1996 Chevy 1500 ext cab,taking out back seat"Will the Saz 3000 power either set up?Do i need 2 batteries?Do i need a cap?Do i have enough room for those subs?Why only 1 or 2 ohm config?Will i be happy withg spending the extra cash on Fi?I think i got everything.I have around 1600…

I have an 1988 camaro iroc z. I have drawn out a box plan for the box to set on the hump area. the box numbers are 8"h x 22"d x 40"w. Which is 4.07 cu.ft and 3 net. I have 8" clearance for the port. I am roughtly 2" from the glass on the end of the box. with about 6" from the glass in middle - where the subs would be. I haven't built a box or done any figuring on the numbers. Math was never my strong area, lol. I am looking at doing 3 DD 1508 or 2 SSA Icon 10s. Would this box work? What would my port need to be?

Hey well I was wondering if someone could design a box for 2 12" Mmats P2.5 its not for me but a friend and he keeps insisting on buying a prefab box or just having the guy build him one but the audio shops here suck ballz so I was just going to give my friend the design to take to the guy to build you know? Anyway Could you tune it to around 35-40hz or what ever you think would sound good with these subs? Im just tryin to help my friend not get ripped on a prefab.... Thanks!!! Voice Coil (Ohms) 2 x 4 Fs (Hz.) 24 Vas (Liters) 117.2 Qts .18 SPL (1W/1M) 89db Power (Wrms) 500 Mounting Depth (inches) 6 1/4 Hole Diameter(inches) 11 1/16 Speaker Displacement (cuft.) .13

Car; lancer GLX (sedan)i.e. with a boot Speakers: 2x loaded Fi BL's 12's box slot port common chamber The goal is loud daily and I was told 32hz will work well. According to my dodgy calculater the below specs will give 31.44 Hz before a single 45 corner and a 1" front baffle. obviously the one side will have to be lengthened by .25'' ...i think box with 36" box height 14" depth 22.5" wood thickness .75" for most part of it(exept for front baffle -->other ideas welcome) sq port height 12.5" sq port with 4.5" sq port L1 17.25" sq port L2 5" cheers

well.i have a friend and he needs basically choosing an amp for a 10 w7 .this what he plans to buy but however he needs help choosing an amp that *needs * to come from amazon.i tried changing his mind but its his only option.so what will be a good amp for sq and a good price.

My buddys in a tight spot right now and has only $600 for HU, 1 sub, amp, wiring, and box. Sub: I think we are going to go with 1 12" sub, thinking about the FI SSD, any other subs that are pretty affordable and good? Spit some ideas out. AMP: I have no idea what will be powering the sub, thinking about 500-800 watts, need some help here as well. HU: Probably looking at the Alpine 9884 If you have a better idea please help me outt, tanx -pear

ok so here what I've decided on for total system for my 94 Sundance: H/U:Pioneer 9800BT FRONT STAGE:Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS REAR STAGE:Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS SUB STAGE:Treo SSX15.22 F/S AMP:Soundstream PCX2.440 R/S AMP:Soundstream PCX2.440 SUB AMP:Soundstream PCX2000D Wiring:Xscorpion Batteries:Kinetik HC1400x3 Alt: Ohio Generator 300amp All comments thought and things that should be changed in your opinion would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Well i can hear the Bl is reeking havoc on my box when it hits the low notes i can hear an air leak even with a monster port. Thing is id like to be able to have to option to move from one 15bl too two down the road. Question is do i build 2 separate boxes and just leave one out for now or do i make say a 8+cuft box and run one in it for now. I don't think that would work considering the port area would be to large for just the one sub right? Anyways i got a 21.5xin40inx26in (HxWxD) space to work with and i can barley manage it but i can get two 21x20x26 boxes with 4.01cuft after displacement and tuned to 32hz in there. what do you guys think i should do?