General Audio

Ok i ve been out of car audio , and i know how much stuff changes. I want to buy some subs to run at 2 ohm's to the kicker zx750.1d . I really want to run all kicker . I also would like to keep it under 200 bucks . I do have a cadence amp that will do 1 ohm 600 rms which match the subs i have now,(alpine type rs d4s). But i think that the kicker amp with a set of kicker subs would hit harder . I have posted alot about this, so i nail it down to get some kicker subs , or keep my cadence and run it at 1 ohm to my alpines . Thanks everybody how has answerd my pass post and this one . yall helped me nail it down .

I have a set com Rainbow SLC-265 components and a 15" arsenal. Will these sound balanced in my new '96 jeep Cherokee? I'm worried the sub will be over bearing. Should I just keep the sub lower or get a smaller sub? As long as the components can keep up with the sub that is all I'm worried about. I hate it when I get in someones car and all they upgraded was the sub, and coincidentally that is all I can hear. The sub. boom boom boom thud. How musical......

i just downloaded winisd so i can model my ssd15 in a new enclosure to see the difference between the current 2.5cuft and the new 4cuft bow im planning on building. where do i find the Pe,Le,Z,dia? i have the other numbers off of the fi website but i believe i need these for it to work correctly... i would greatly appreciate any help.

Anyone ever bought a box from Bobby? I have always said I would as soon as I find the perfect sub; still looking. www.gatelyaudio.com

how much are they and can i buy them online?

I'm posting this thread in the general section so that maybe more people will see it. This is a plea to get people to write product reviews. In my opinion, that is one of the most valuable resources that this forum can have yet it is being severely underutilized. Write a review about all of your equipment, not just subs (as I know that's the most popular). We get many threads each day with people trying to figure out what equipment to buy and we could point them to the review section. But right now there are about four reviews in the last four months in there. However, there is a caveat to my encouragement. Please write a good review. This includes positives and neg…

actual technical question follows ---> Basically as the title says...I've decided on an 5.25" or 6.5" MTM design that works for my app, but I've got a choice of ribbon or regular tweets. The ribbon kit is double the price of the normal one at $550...I've never owned a speaker using ribbon tweets, so I don't know if they'd be worth the price increase. FYI, the speakers I'm looking at can be found at http://www.parkeraudio.net. 95dB/W or 98dB/W at a stable 2 ohm load. Thanks. :musik05:

Well, I got my L3's today and installed them in the kicks. I will give a very small review today on them and explain some stuff about them. They are 3in drivers with a good frequency range from 150hz to 10khz. Wide range and small driver that can do IB. I have mine sealed in a kick panel. Right now i've done a sine sweep on it from 20-20khz. The driver was hooked to a CDT SATNet 480 crossover so it only played to about 5khz or so. Driver didn't like anything below 120hz not saying it won't play it but it wasn't liking it from some of the sounds. It really excelled in the 800-4khz range which it really liked which means instruments and vocals are nice and clear. Mixed rea…

I have a Kole Audio KX1-5500D putting out 3200 rms at 1 ohm and a kinetic HC1800 battery. how big of alternator do i need?

89' CRX, unmolested, pretty clean, came on 17" enkei shoguns, was a 50 yr old ladies car , very clean inside. Great base to start from, no fast and the furios crap will be bolted on to this.. But It will have a ALpin 7949 deck, 2 tc 3hp/FI 12" subs, on a AMerican bass xd3000. And a set of the Lanzar Opti6c comps on my old school Sony xm-5046.. should be a great project

Ok I have a rather unique problem that I a guy of 5 years plus in the car audio has come up against. Ok here is the skinny, I have a: JVC Kd_LX 10 head unit MTX AMP JVC 12 Disk Changer 8" MTX Subs Now the problem is that when I listen to the radio all speakers in the car work just fine and that includes the subs. Here comes the gremlin I pop on the CD changer and Only the Driver side of the car speakers work But the Subs work just fine just cannot get the Passenger side of the car to play any sound when the DC player is on. Get that ? I have checked the RCA's The Inputs the outputs all the rest that one would look at but all looks like its working correctly. Now what I am…

like I said to SS, I might be there, but I was wondering if there is a show vehicle for powerbass

hi, i currently have a 200 amp alternator ( excessive amperage) but i have had a problem. it came with a 2" overdrive pulley and i need a shorter Serpretain belt for it and they don't make one short enough. so i have to go with a 160 Amp alternator because of the Serpretain belt problem. the amps i have/ going to be using are: Us amps md1d @1 ohm (1200 underrated watts) and Jl Audio 450/4 because of the RIP Power supply. Would a 160 Amp alternator be big enough for roughly around 1650 rms watts? and i am going to get a Yellow top Battery under the hood.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324604 yah so i have been keeping it a secret that tommyk was gonna be running my van for this season. well he went down to my house to test it some to make sure everything was working. i had just got the new windshield put in the same day. i cant afford to keep replacing windshields everytime i burp it. its a sad day for me ive lost alot of money on this van. but im willing to move the van on to someone that is willing to give it a try. already know it can do mid 150s on music i just want to do 59.9 bassrace and this van wont let me. if u want to do 49.9 this van would be great cuz u dont need alot of power to do …

im running earthquake 6.5 mid bass and 1 inch soft tweeters up front, coax rear door speakers.genesis 4 channel amp running front and rear. diamond audio D3 12D4 x 2,currently being run by earthquake pa 4030 4 channel bridged 2 channel mode 2ohm. celestion ap 15 run by earthquake pa 2150 mono.also using pg line driver, and old school rockford 0eq1. what would the good people of this forum, recommend for a d-class mono amp for the D3 12D4 subs.all makes considered.please remember im in london england.i have been recommended,MASSIVE AUDIO - PRO P1000.1, i dont know much about this can any one shed some light? i would like to go 1ohm if possible.willing to look at all makes.…

So I've been waiting quite a while now for the my sub and I barely realized I messed up on the address to deliver to. So now i suffer and try to get it somehow

Okay I think I finally figured out what I'm going to get for my boyfriend again but I'm not exactly sure what kind he needs. I am looking for a clamp on volt meter. He just got a craftsman one but it isn't very good. He said tthe kind he wants is I guess really expensive. please if you know anything about volt meters....good ones please help me out! =] thankss

My drive to work everyday is a little over an hr, and i listen to this album every morning I could listen to this everyday and die a happy man lol Which one is your current favorite CD?

ive been after a clarion dz9255 for ages, they arnt available in europe so was thinking about importing one, clarion just done a press release in the uk for the new head units, which doesnt include the dz9255, so i winged a little and as luck would have it i won one i actualy won a clarion hx d2 but same model just malaysia spec so i can use the radio in the UK and slightly updated compared tot he 9255 what a good start to my holidays

have a jl 6 channel amp And cdt audio 6.5 components. the right front speaker sounds fine. the left front is very quiet and when the input level is turned up is stays quiet and gets distorted. i have changed all the wires. Interchanged the cross overs. I have tried every channel on my amp. i have even tried changing speakers and the same results. I don't think there is any thing else that could be the problem. Every thing else works fine. If you hook up the speaker directly to the amp it is fine. But with the crossover it does not. When you first hook up the speaker it gives a little loud burst of noise and then gets quiet again. I don't understand it. Can anyone give me …

Swapped my sealed fifteens for the BTL again for my listening/HT setup; super basic question, any reason not to do up firing? I have always loved the look upwards firing setups, maybe because my heart is in the trunk of an suv it seems to register just fine. the cabinet is massive, forward firing is wacky looking; I'm using the opposite side as rack for amps. Is sag an issue in a typical setup or only in setups where limits are being tested?

Hey, i stay true to my name <<<. lol, but why does a sub seem louder with a window(s) down, than when they're up? I don't know if it is on a meter, or just to the ear, but shouldn't it be that if the waves are focused into a smaller space, it'd be louder? with a window down the air goes everywhere.. just don't understand. Also, if it really is louder on a meter to have windows down, then why do the true bassheads, modified vehicles spend thousands on concreting a vehicle and making sure every crevice is sealed, when i roll down a window and it's louder. Is it just the class they're in, and the rule is windows up? Or does it actually make it louder? Just kinda wo…

I am going to do both bassrace and spl. Just wondering what would be some good sub that can handle 4k rms daily. Idk if there even is. I'm getting mike singers bass race box from his eclipse to put into mine. It's tuned to 35hz right now. Any ideas? I have $1000 limit. I have to sell my 15 btls first though.

A 2005 Nissan Sentra...I'm looking to do mid 140s with duel 12s or single 15. Spending limit is around 2500