General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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after slaving by his computer for hours maybe days, Ravo has released a working database www.12vdb.com www.12voltdb.com add equipment you own or feel that you have a deep connection to, write reviews, etc etc!! 12vdb is now open!! thanks to all who have helped (especially Ravo and Megahurtz)
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We have a Skar Audio RP-1200.1D and we have it hooked up to a 18 Skar Audio 600 wattt 1 ohm sub woofer . If we hook 1 subwoofer will it be receiving 1200 RMS ?
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Does anybody else run their mids and highs with their head unit? I would get a separate amp but I'd need to upgrade my electrical beforehand. I have re 6x9s in the back and stock in the front and its really not loud at all....to be honest the stock Charger SXT head unit sounded great but since I switched it the panasonic head unit its really not as audibly sound.
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Hello all, new here. Wanting to get some opinions on my upcoming box build. Never did an extended cab before. Ok so the sub is a 12" Fi BL on a rockford t1500 bdcp. Now the box I have figured is 3.9 cuft gross and 2.5 after all displacement(I plan on double baffling). Port will be a t-line style. My question is Port up? Or Port Forward? Box dimensions are 39" x 15" x 15" so port will be the same either way at 3" x 13.5". Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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Alot of people on this forum ask what vehicle a setup is gonna go into as a factor for selecting what kind of equipment they recommend. What I would like to know is, Are there certain vehicles that are better suited for a certain application? I.E. Vans for SPL? Cars for SQ? I know my question is pretty vague but I guess what I'm asking is, is there a direct relationship from the amount of air displaced by the sub to the amount of air in the cab of the vehicle to achieve maximum spl or sq? If there is, what would be the formula for finding the max airspace for any given sub configuration. For instance, having the same 1200 watt amp, electrical, HU, even leather seats, will…
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hey guys, im looking to buy a sub woofer for my car, im just interested in what you guys would recommend. i mostly listen to rap/reggaeton (if you guys know what it is lol). would like to get a single 15". would I probably buy a saz-1500d or wait until the saz-2000d comes out (since all i hear is positive things from sundown amps ) the cars a 05 dodge stratus.
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i just downloaded winisd so i can model my ssd15 in a new enclosure to see the difference between the current 2.5cuft and the new 4cuft bow im planning on building. where do i find the Pe,Le,Z,dia? i have the other numbers off of the fi website but i believe i need these for it to work correctly... i would greatly appreciate any help.
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Ive got an alpine mrp m350 amp that does 350 watts @ 2 ohm and a 4 ohm dvc ssa dcon 10". Im trying to run the sub at around 300-350 watts in parallel at 2 ohms. I want to accurately set my gain and found the equation that you are suppossed to use to find the optimal volts. Voltage = sqrt(rms x impedence) So is this what i would do for my 4 ohm dvc woofer? Voltage = sqrt(300x4ohm) Voltage = sqrt(1,200) Voltage = 35 Or is it this since im running the amp at 2 ohm to a 4 ohm dvc woofer Voltage = sqrt(300x2 ohm) Voltage = sqrt(600) Voltage = 24.5
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if i get a little mdf dust down by my coil etc, will it be fine and blow out eventually, or is it going to cause problems?
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I have an amp and a pair of speakers and im not sure if they are good or not. What would you guys rate them from 1/10, i got them both for free so im not to concerned if they are good or not. Speakers - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3230_P...1-2-+4-Way.html Amp - http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Alpine_MRV-T502/
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quick question are these two run by same owners? just curious because in the sound solution audio store there is second skin audio stuff? but both have same acronym SSA? lol maybe a coincidence or not. but just curious? i was watching this old video and they mentioned second skin audio, which got me thinking?
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I have an opportunity to buy either. full bodies or mini. I am planning to go full. but my question is: 1. Is it worth the extra money to get the pro instead of the cd1e? 2. Will i notice a significant difference? I plan to use a passive crossover that i will make (from schematics the ID tech gave) but will be EQing using my eclipse cd7000(7band peq). iirc i can only use passive on the cd1e and not the pro. correct? I dont think my deck has a fancy enough dsp to handle the pro?...or am i wrong? thanks. oh btw id like for them to play down to 1kish. my mids are hertz hsk 165s if it matters.
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How much 1/0 should I buy for the van? I was thinking about replacing the runs already in the van with new wire, so what 100' power and like 25' ground? Also, how thick speaker wire would you use for roughly 1000w per woofer? I figured 10awg speaker wire should suffice just fine. Although 8awg could happen if needed.
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I had another G35 buddy come to me about a subwoofer setup a few weeks back. Seems he bought one of the prefab enclosures made to fit the trunk of the g35 that they sell on ebay. The problem... Box for 2 10" subs was only .8 cubes gross. He was looking at a few different subs, mainly JL, and was settling on the W3's. I happened to stumble across a great deal on RE SR10's and he ordered them, the nice thing about them is that they can play better than most given limited airspace. Even though the box is a lil tight, they don't seemed choked for air on the lows which i envisioned the w3's to be. Threw in a bit of polyfill to pick up some of the slack there. After woofer dis…
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So I am once again a free man and its time to get back to what I enjoy. I want to outline everything I will be getting and see if anyone has objections before I proceed with purchases! My main concern is the front stage and how well the mid/tweet combo ive picked out will mesh together. I will be purchasing and installing in stages so that is how I will list my ideas. So lets start where I am going to start in the build process.... STAGE 1: 100sqft of Raamaat BXT Full wiring from Knukonceptz Begin door pods for 7" Mid STAGE 2: Metra Dash kit for my car Eclipse CD 7000 STAGE 3: Seas CA18-RNX Seas 27TFFN Sound Stream PCA4.520 The mid will be mounted in the door down low in …
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(1) Alpine SWR1242D (1) MB Quart DSC1000.1 Sub is 4ohms with two voice coils. The amp also has + + - - option. So, should I wire each voice coil separately and voice both sets of + - or wire the vc's together and just use one? Thanks for any advice, I have no idea lol.
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I wasn't going to but the stock speakers have horrible cone breakup and it's driving me absolutley nuts. So I might aswell. The system has to be simple and mostly from items I already have. Space is a consideration since the vans main purpose is work (lots of tools supplies etc in the back). The Vehicle is a 1997 AWD Astro Cargo Van. 2 seats and the rest is wide open (1 parts shelf a foot or so back from the drivers seat all the way to the back doors). I'll use an RFX-8240 for source. (Maybe I'll fashion a feaux 'stock deck' face.) I have a set of old MB Quart separates 6.5" QM 160TC mids 1" QM 19HC Titanium tweets with Passive crossovers. Figure stock (door) locations …
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the plan is to get the 15 l7 walled off and deaden the cab with a roll of raamat. im planning on keeping his factor stereo because he has the digital climate controlls build in. its the mach audio system so there is a factory amp. ive been told its puts outs 20x4. id like to add the mtx req if anyone thinks it would help. and as far the speakers go idk what id like to do here. budget is about 150-175. or $250 budget if u throw out the mtx req and go a different way with that. any advice?
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So I sold my system and vehicle about 2.5 years ago for a Infiniti G37S Sedan with the factory Bose system. It's been holding well, but I got the urge for some bass recently. I know what i want to do, just not sure on equipment. Amp will be integrated with stock system using Bose amp inputs in the trunk. The factory IB 10" will be removed from the rear deck. I will build a box for the trunk, ~1.25-1.5cubes @33Hz. Electrical will stay factory, 4Ga wire. I am not trying to spend too much here, maybe $225-$275 for a decent 10" and amp. I have looked at some cheaper stuff such as RE SE-X for like $119 and a cheap planet audio amp that should be good for ~600rms for $100. S…
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i recently bought an 04 mustang gt.. didnt realize that the trunk is really limited on space. has room for a decent size box but getting it in would be trouble because the opening isnt very big either.. i have an audioque 2200 and a dual 2 ohm solo x 10.. anyone who has done a build in a mustang 99-04 please help me out.. im tryin to design a box that will fit but still be large enough for the X... or would it be best to sell it and get some sa-8s or something similar
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It was a nice day, and the shop is closed on sunday so I decided to break out the old TL and do some testing. At the moment, the ports I am using are for testing purposes, just form tube, no fibreglass enforcement or even flares for that matter, so I know there is still more I can squeeze out of this. All testing was done with Two 15" Icons on a Crescendo 3500d (At 2 ohms keep in mind). Pretty basic electrical with only a single kinetik 1400 as a second battery. First Test : 6.cuft / 8" formtube tuned to ~27hz 30hz - 137.94db 35hz - 139.19db 40hz - 141.53db 44hz - 143.20db 46hz - 143.52db Second Test : 6cuft / 8" formtube tuned to ~ 33hz 30hz - 138.23db 35hz - 14…
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i want to lower my tuning in one of my enclosures 2 each 4 " aeroports how close can i bring them to the floor or what is the minimum space i need to leave from top of floor to bottom of ports Thanks
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hey guys, anyone know how deep the slits should be cut on a mdf flare port to get it to bend? And what should I use to strenghten it back up afterwards? thanks
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