General Audio

So I'm currently running one 2ohm 12 inch icon on a 1200 watt Cadence amp at 1 ohm.. in 2.4 cubes tuned at 29.. it sounds very good. But I want louder more spl.. as much as I can cram in the back of the bug without losing my backseat.... was initially going to move to a 15" X or zcon. Somebody here said my best bet would be to add a 2nd icon 12.. so that's my plan. I think I can squeeze 4.5 to5 cubes and was thinking 34-35 Hertz.. I definitely want to get a better quality amp even though I've had zero issues with the Cadence. It doesn't even get hot.. but I'm pretty set on the zapco St series amps. My question is how many watts should I give the icons. Without straini…

Not sure if anyone else was on the email list but they announced they are reopening and are currently producing subs, plans to release the extremis 6.8 for early next year and Koda's either in the first or second half of the year. https://adireaudio.com/

http://adireaudio.com/Home/TheMuse.htm Look very interesting. I will never have $6k to blow on them....but interesting none-the-less.

Sure, Adire has finally released them... The Adire Koda Subwoofer Right now they are IN STOCK. That's right, a fresh new idea, introduced and released with no pre-order!!! Something awesome this way comes Fs 28 Hz Qms 3.5 Qes 0.42 Qts 0.40 Vas 85 liters Znom 4 Ohm Re 2.8 Ohms Le 1.3 mH BL 10.2 Sd 344 cm2 Xmax 18mm one way linear Pmax4 300W RMS, 600W peak NOTE: Power rating is thermal only! It is NOT a power requirement; typically you get full output with significantly less power than the rating. SPL 88 @ 1W, Diameter 10.5" Cutout 9.25" " Depth 4.75" Vo…

So I dont have a whole lot of pics but here are some. I know other people have alot more. It was an ok turn out. Maybe 50 people, not too huge. Dan was on the grill making us adire heads food. Maybe 15 cars went on the TL mic. I hit a 133.5 at 37hz with 220 watts on a brahma 15 with the mic by the headrest and one window down in a temp set up until I get my sub amp. There were some sick installs there but I know other people will have pictures to post of them so I'm not even going to bother getting into them now. I dont know anyone else on this forum who was there, but more talk about the event can be seen at http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=38754 along wi…

I have a Ford Ranger Super cab and over the past 5 or 6 years I've owned two Shivas. I have always powered them with the same amp I used for SPL...MTX Thunder 6500D in parallel for a two ohm load (rated on the 'paper' at 402 w/rms at 4ohms and 611 w/rms at 2 ohm).The first one I had in a downfiring box in the center of the extended cab (over the hump). The most current one I had in a really small box (built to take up less room). I never had problems with the downfiring one, even though my little cousin once pushed the dust cap almost completely in...and then I had air leaks so I permanently sealed it in the box...hey, it was already ugly. The one I have now though, tends…

I have a DC lvl 4 m2 18 d2 and an american bass hd 3500. bout 1200rms clean. the sub takes 1400 and its underrated. on dc's site they reccomend a 6 cube box. how to i know how much to compensate for the lesser power?

Hey, Im fairly new to all this Car Audio stuff, and have no idea what is 'good'. There is so much choice nowadays with all the brands (Alpine, Memphis, FUSION, etc, etc) and would like help on choosing my first set up. I have about 1,000 $NZ (About 700-800 US$) to spend on Speaker's, Sub(s), and amp(s). I dont need a head unit as I am building a CarPC for the music. So what would you recommend? NZHawk,

Hello All... I've been reading through various post to learn more about building a system and now I have a question. In the past I've have built a number of car stereo systems but due to funds I haven't had a system in a long while but now I'm ready to build one up again. I'd like any input on my proposed system. I understand you all have different opinions and experience. This is just what I've come up with my own research. I'll go ahead and leave my list below. If you think it's a good setup feel free to let me know. If you'd take a different approach fill me in. If you think I'd be better off with different hardware like I said it's been awhile and I know things change…

Hello everyone, I was quite out of the scenario for family reasons, but always checking what's new in SSA. Recently I change my ride for an 06 Navigator ultimate, I keep most of the equipments of the town car like the audiocontrol LC7, the lanzar OPTIX10 crossover, the memphis ST1000D mono amp and the 2 subs Ascendant Audio Chaos 10". I'm interest in create an sq system with what I got now and add a few more things like component speakers, damping material, etc. also i was thinking in build a custom center console in the second row, that house the subs, cause i need all the cargo space for my job. Where i'm totally lost is in the eficiency of the subs in a small sealed bo…

okay so i live in the northern illinois region and i was driving south into rockford illinois to take my friend to visit her boyfriend, who is in jail. so as im driving us to the jail, a cop shows up behind me, so i kill my system. cherries go on, and i get pulled over. so cop comes up to my window and asks me if its me with the loud music and i lie, and tell him no. and he goes, "pop your trunk". so i tell him no, u have no probable cause. and then the cop says yes i do, i heard it coming from your direction. so thats when i roll into, "o, well low frequency sound is omnidirectional, so actually you cant tell which direction its coming from." so then he gets all pissed a…

ok so what im wanting to know is what are the differences between an aero port or a normal cutout port? which is better for maintaiing spl and sq, more of the lines of getting louder? i do like the style and looks of an aero port but what are the advantages and disadvantages? id there any way to know what size aero port to get for a specific tuning? any help would be greatfully helped

where can i find them i need some for my next build please help

Im going to building a box here shortly that will use aero ports. Reason for this post is to hopefully find someone who has dealt with my particular problem before. Box will require 3 aero ports each about 17" in length 3" in diameter. An experimental ABC box. although i have no more than about 11.5" depth to work with (internal) The box will be going into a s10 so not a ton of depth to play with. I will need to use elbows in my ports. I really like the precision port kits but they dont seem to offer an elbow attachment. I took a look over at parts express and it appears Dayton makes kits that do offer an elbow..although reading a review on the elbow piece someone says th…

Hello SSA, since I've had nothing to contribute on these forums for over 6 months now, its time to post something usefull when i actually can post something usefull....just recetly I've figured out how to work out the cross-Sectional area of a circle lol, thanks to my boss (Surveyor)...so these figures are quite accurate, they are based of Pi being 3.1416 which is close enought to what it really is!!!! PORT SIZE | Cross-Section Area --------------------------------------------------------------- 1" / 25.4mm | 0.7854 inches 2" / 50.8mm | 3.1416 Inches 3" / 76.19mm | 7.0686 Inches 4" / 101.6mm | 12.5664 Inches 5" / 127mm …

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor). Subwoofer mounting - What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install. I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, …

I'm planning out a box for my 8" Orphan driver. Using 3/4" mdf, outer dimensions are 12x12x15, driver displacement is approximately .15 ft3, and I am thinking of using a 2x9 inch flared aeroport to bring the box specs to 0.69 ft3 @ ~34 hz. Is this an adequate port? Or am i missing something? I'm pretty new to round ports, as I have built only slot ports. Any help is appreciated.

What’s everyone’s experiences? Had numerous small systems but always in older cars. Seen a few posts online from random people and responses are over the place. Some are like its voids all electrical, or just the audio on the car, or the audio and if the dealer says it affected another circuit or system. Just wanting experienced audio enthusiast opinions/ experiences. It’s a 2017 Camry. Wanting to either transfer my existing stuff in( 2 JL12wo in a slot ported wedge box, jl 500.1 and the big3) or upgrade to something bigger. Pair of sa12’s on a 1500.1. Thanks for any info, it’s my first car with a warranty, lol

Do you have to charge the agm batteries or does it run off the alternator?

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/60823-scion-xb.html Was looking at possibly bagging my car to help out with the stereo, but those kits are damn expensive. Came across this and feel that it would be way more beneficial seeing as my car does not need to go any lower. Just a few questions. Has anyone tried these? Or something similar. How well do they hold up. Do you constantly need to add air to it. Would the air kit be worth it? its like 180 bucks more. Figured it would be a good solution to the sagging back end from equipment.

Does the air moving around in a sealed box take any temperature change in relativity to the cooling of the coil? Since air is bouncing off the back baff does it actually cool the coil more effieciently than a ported enclosure?

My soft top Jeep wrangler has been burglarized 4 times now at my crappy apartment complex. The thieves have never stolen anything valued over $30 but I'm tired of feeling violated. I know there are some shop owners and installers here, what are you guys thinking? All my car audio stuff is bolted/chained down; I'm looking for a very basic alarm with door open sensor and some kind of proximity alarm for when the doors are off so the thug/piece of human filth hears the alarm and runs off without rummaging through my stuff. I have a manual transmission and no power door locks or windows so I'm not interested in paying for anything high end, but I do like quality. …

Alright I am trying to get my Compustar to work in my 09 Challenger. I have everything working but the remote start. I am using an XpressKit Chall interface, which made pretty much everything cake until now. I still need to hook up 2 starter wires, accessory and ignition. The CHALL interface offers a (+) start wire, but because the alarm has a starter kill I need to split it on both sides, which I can't do with this. It also offers a (-) while running which is no good for the acc. And a (+ ignition). I have tried hooking up what I can, but no luck. If someone can help me it would be greatly appreciated... maybe one of you guys got a inside line to DEI to help me =).

As I posted on another section I got a new (to me) Daily Driver... Its a 2005 Chevy Trail Blazer... Cliff Notes: Before I haul off and put a few K into an audio system, I kinda want to get a really good Alarm... What Systems are the Best and Why??? What Systems are are POS and Why??? I'm trying to do alot of reading and researching on this to make sure I make a good descision.. My concerns are the Alarm being a POS and the install being a POS... The reason, my last two Alarms were DEI - Viper systems and I had several issues with them... Long Story if you wanna Read the whole Novel: The 1st (a low end unit, probably a dealer add on) came on my 1996 GMC Sonoma, Ex Cab, …

hi i have a clifford 590.2x and i have to addons which is the dual zone motion sensor 508d and digital tilt sensor 507m how do i wire these two to my alarm thur the optinal mux port for additional sensors