General Audio

I thought I'd share. My first comp I did bass boxing and hit 135 db. I had it as 136 but my power is still not the best. I only have a single death row 12 on a hifonics 1200w running at 2 ohms

Recently acquired an e36 m3 coupe. During the hunt for the car, I was also able to purchase a pair of Jehnert door panels with space for 4 6.5 mids. I've hand picked a couple items I had laying around in the garage for this build So far I've got Kenwood DNX9980HD Audison Bit.1 Zed Dreadnought, Zed Leviathan iii, & JL 1200/1 2 SSA Gcon 15's which I'll be trying out IB or possibly 3 JBL mkii 10's. JBL 2426H horns(Found these on craigslist for 100..steal of the century) ID full horn bodies Now, for the front stage, I have 2 options. 1. 4 18sound 6ND430's(4 ohm). 2. 3 18sound 6ND430's(4 ohm) & A pair of Audax PR170M0's for midrange duties. Which …

ok So ive been looking at build logs for awhile been on a member on ca for a while just never really posted anything. They'll make you wanna choke em some of the shyt they do. But i work at best buy and we get a pretty good discount on the speakers and stuff. So im trying 2 decide between a rf 1000bd thousand watts at 1ohm or an alpine mrp 1000 thousand watts at 2 ohms gonna get p3's or type Arghhs 12's. Just dont know much about either brand i've only owned kenwood excelon. Heard some rf stuff in my unkles tsx they where pretty loud, But i kno that the alpine subs atleast are over rated but the amps i hear get hot quick. Hopefully i dont get flamed for not having pics…

so, as the title says, my friend has 2 12" Memphis PR's with a 500watt RMS PR amp. in a ProBass ported box.... it is a used system. but he hardly even bumps it. so it hasnt been abused. this will be my tempoary setup untill i get money for a bigger sub and amp. i kno he paid around $100 per sub. $299 for amp. and $150ish maybe $200 for the box. soo, (in your your opinion) what would the... -average price be? -and a really good price be? thanks alot in advance. -jonathan

im trying to design my new system. im looking for quality as well as spl. i want 1 12'' SUB, 1 AMP, and 1 HU. that is all. right now im looking at a Fi 12'' Q subwoofer or should i look into the bl instead? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum... amplifier: hifonics BXi 1606D (1600 watts) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... hu: kenwood excelon x791 or alpine 9883 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... vs. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... any changes? suggestions? help me out.

Just been looking around an iv seen records for the earlier 2000's but i cant seem to find what the loudest SPL vehicle is right now... Just kind of curious and i cant seem to find it on my own.. =\

So far I have: Hyundai Accent GT: gutted, stuffed with 65 cans of expanding foam, 14 gallons of bondo that need removed from the windows and redone by welding sheetmetal instead. 320lbs of 3/4"mdf for the false floor, ceiling, doors, roof, dashboard, and subwoofer chamber/wall. I had 5 1gallon buckets of Spectrum Firewall...sold 2, trying to sell the rest, and a 5 gallon bucket of Spectrum Sludge...trying to sell that too. 6 Optima Red tops...getting 2 more. An Audio Control 6Xs, getting a second one when i get the crossovers so I have 2 bandpassed signals and 1 HP, all at 24dB/oct, then using deck/sub amps to cross the subs. 2 Vifa XT25TG30 Ring Radiator Tweets, a KX200.…

I was looking on the SSA store and was curious about the soundrive cables. They are on the pricey side, my question, are they worth it? Would the sound really improve as they lead you to believe? I've always run twisted pair, currently RF brand, never used coax before. From what I have read, if there isn't an existing noise issue, most any cable will do. Though, the only info I run across seems like it's all just speculation. I just moved my amps around and now my current rca cables are way too long.

I was rolling through an industrial area, an area right before i get to the center of the town i live in, and had my windows down with the volume pretty high. I was playing "Party and Bullshit" by Tech N9ne (good song) and as i was going through a light, there was a cop at a red light to the left. I muted the music instantly, but he followed me a little bit, eyed my sub in the back and then pulled me over. I knew i was screwed once i saw him. Still haven't got a court date in the mail. I would think I would have at least got a warning first, but nope. I don't blast with my windows down anymore though, it can be heard from way to far away. I don't know how much the fine i…

I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 with the factory 7 speaker system. Right now everything factory the can does not do Dolby Digital 5.1 even though it does have a single center speaker located on the dash board. I am wondering if this set up will work or will i need a Sound Processor still. I am looking at a Dual XDVD8265 here is the product manual. http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/xdvd8265.pdf And i am looking at this Amp to power the 5 channels. http://images.techronics.com/pictures.cfm?sku=ALP-MRAF350 I am unsure of how to connect that 5 channel amp to the head unit as there are not 5 RCA outs on the amp. I have a pair of Kicker Comp VX with a separate mono block amp for th…

Hey guys, I was just wondering what the tuning frequency of a box really means. For instance, if my box is tuned to 35hz, will it simply not play any frequencies below that level, or will it sound like complete shit, or...? I just wasn't sure exactly what tuning frequency affected. I've read in a few places that higher tuning generally yields more spl, while lower is more geared towards sq. Why is that?

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could b…

Hello, I decided to make a thread that will list any useful links that I may have come across and would like to share, it can be a place for all useful and audio related links that other members may find helpful and useful. So please add, the more the better. I would like to stick to some kind of standard format though so that it may be easy for other members to know what your posting, as well as a brief comment or description. I will edit this as much as possible. http://www.zaphaudio.com/6.5test/ - Link for a variety of 6.5" door speakers with a brief summary. http://www.mfk-proje...easurements.htm - Testing for various woofers/speakers http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ …

If I do not care AT ALL what I do on the meter what would you thing is the lowest you can tune in a wall of 2 18' Nightshade V.2 18's? I LOVE the low lows and moving sheet metal/air. I also have about 20 cubes.... probably more if I push it but I dont want to if I dont have to... Thanks. LMK if I need to add more additional info...

Ok well here's the scenario: I am running a 15" BTL off of a JL Audio 250/1 (not the v2 one). On the amp along with the power light and protection mode light it has a light that is labeled "low Ohm" with the little ohm symbol. This amp's lowest rating is 1.5 ohm. My woofer is wired down to 1 ohm. But i figured it wasn't a big problem. OK so here's the problem - just now I noticed that on a certain note of a song (Lil Jon-Throw It Up) the light labeled low ohm blinks. Then i noticed sort of a popping sound coming from the box. So i went around to the back and popped the trunk. Then i could really hear the popping sound. I believe the sound it coming from the sub itself an…

hey, just wondering how all u pay for ur car audio. do u have friends that can get u deals, are u the guy doin the deals, do u have high payin jobs, or do u just have to save up for a while<---me.......just wonderin, just curious........

Would this be the proper way to hook up an extra battery? And will the power still be sufficient with the distroblock option 1 option 2

For starters I've spent dozens of hours but it's just beyond my feeble abilities. Current set-up: Jeep Wrangler (possibly the worst platform for good sounding mobile audio), Rosen HU (it has front, rear, and sub RCA outputs), Zed Mikro IV pushing JBL power series 6 1/2" components in factory locations up front and bridged rear to power a Kenwood 10 in a sealed box. The HU powers Bravox 5 1/4" components in the role bar. Those JBLs scream and I need them to, I frequently drive with the doors off and top down. Yes, I know they're harsh, but they fit my budget and the performance matches the compromises I'm willing to make. The problem is the output of the 10" …

Figured it would be fun to start a meme thread

can i use car Audio Subwoofers For Live Audio use for example a couple Fi Car Audio SSD 15s or 18s

I have the MOJOs right now ran by a Hifonics Brutus 2100.d. Now i know thats not enough for them but in general with a custom box and either same amp or a saz-1500, could i get a little louder with the sundown SA-12s since ill actually be putting enough power to them? Also this would be in a 2000 ford explorer, so if anyone has witnessed a similar setup with 2 sa-12s in a explorer it would be great if you give feedback. thanks

Now, Im not sure if this is actually done very often but it seems like a lot of laziness to me. Here is what my local shop did back when my dad first got the speakers installed. They simply spliced into the old connectors for the OEM speakers instead of just running new wire from front to back. But anyways, Im in the middle of rewiring anways so I guess i just need to cut those connections and tape up the loose ends for now.

well i 1st got my volt meter maybe 2 or 3 months ago, or around that and i put it on the neg and pos post of my xspower battery under the hood to calibrate and when i turned it , nothing happened just the stinger logo lit up thats it, i told darvex and they told me to ship my old one and i did and gave me another replacment this friday so i went today to calibrate and when i put the pos and neg on the post of my battery it dont light up WTF?! am i doing wrong all it does is flash or couple seconds and thats it if i hold it there nothing lights up, but if i rub it, it just flickers anyone know if im doing anything incorrectly??? this is really making me just buy a used one…

I have been trying to find a good school for mobile audio installation, fabrication, and such. I found this website about this school www.mobiledynamics.com based in Arizona. I know nothing about this school and can not find any feedback from people that have gone there. If anyone knows anything about it please, let me know your thoughts. Thanks,

Just scooped a '98 Mountaineer this morning. Has the 5.0, it's AWD; feels good to be off the shoelace express Plans are a singer 240a, some royal excelene, a juicebox 20ah under the hood, Three SI mag v3 12's sealed (amp undecided), silver flute 8's in the doors, and hlcd's under the dash on a PPI 900.4. Doors first, but intend to fully dampen the cabin, mlv, ccf, cld, and foam. Want to sniff out an 80prs and snag a minidsp also. I'm so geeked.