General Audio

reading the hoffman's iron law sticky, and have some questions. low end extension, high efficiency, or small enclosure size i know you have to chose two. and im looking at: low end and small enclosure how does the tuning and port area affect this? does it mean i need more port and a higher tuning? also assuming more power will be needed?

What kind of music hits what hz? I listen to rap and some areas to me are real low. I get confused because I read and people say that rap is all in the 40-50hz range. And then I see that people tune their boxes to maybe 27-29. Is there a program out there that like plays music, then shows you where the hz level is at?

I picked up a pair of Xplode 10" subs on Friday for $15 Anyone have any specs for a box that will make these tolerable? I have 100wrms to go to each, it's in a college dorm. I have them isobaric on a bazooka tube for now, and it's okay, but drops real quiet below 40hz. I don't need it loud, just low. Note: I know, they're sonys.

I posted this over on the Mach 5 Audio section, too. Some short videoes of my 6th order wall in my Jeep. Two Mach 5 SPL 15's and an American Bass XD1800, so not a whole lot of power. My Powerbass XA3000D is in for repair. Still have a lot of tweaking and testing to get this build running full tilt. Thanks for the views! Door flex from the inside. 22 hz. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=2kVUFE3LjUo Roof flex/wave. My camera didn't pick it up very well. It's violent, though. 33 hz. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=xf__x8HY5As Some door flex at 20 hz. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=oEwtb79NM-g

im about to be building a pretty big box that will be housing some serious drivers. i wanted to know which one would be the best option, nails or screws? ive always finished nailed all my boxes together but i also put liquid nail on everyone of them. the walls of this sub box will be 1.5" thick. so would it be best to screw them together? i just hate how long it takes to screw it all, thats why i prefer nails

i drive an explorer, and im only gonna have 1 sub in a 2 cubic box. what are your guy's tips for keepin it in the middle right behind the back seat? thanks for any help you guys can give me. edit: DO NOT wanna drill into the floor.

I have a Eclipse CD-8053 which I bought for the SQ level it has. I LOVE it and do not want to give it up. Any idea if there is a way to get Sirius Radio to play through the deck? I live in an area North of Dayton OH. All the Radio Stations point there sat's South towards Cinci... Therefore my reception just sucks. I listen to the Radio when I am in Dayton, but listen to CD's when home, because my SQ system really brings out the Hiss's and Pops! Any help for me??

alrighty, im gonna be making my box soon for my single cab truck. the dementions are (L)36" x (H)27" x (D1)3" x (D2)9". That is cutting it realy close because its 2.291 cubic feet. im going to run 2 kicker 12" compVR's which need 1 cubic foot at a minimum. im making it sealed so i have to make the two chambers, so will that 3/4" wood in between the subs reduce the volume to less than 1 cubic foot?? also, that is going to be right up next to my seat and i can't move it anymore closer (i'll be kissing the wheel) do i have to change the depth so it won't hit my seat???

Anyone know where I can find some .25" FEMALE quick disconnect speaker wire terminals that will accept 8 guage wire? I've searched to no avail, but I HAVE purchased some before. I cannot find them anywhere.

Right now I'm talking to my dad about a system for our boat. We have a Yamaha AR230. He wants a whole new system. He wants new speakers to fill the orginal spots. Then he wants bass. He was looking at JL audio, but I told him not to get that, because it's too expensive for what he wants. I don't think he would really tell the difference between JL and something else. I want to get him some subs and amps from the VVME website. I know they're not the best subs, but they're cheap and will get the job done for what he wants. Warm weather is almost here for us, so we're going to get the boat back soon. I havent really measured what space he has, but I'm pretty sure it will…

what size alternator will be enough for a Hifonics 2010D amp. my stock alt is only 60amps, i have already done Big3.

Just out of curiousity, what is wrong with a particular signal if it is clipped?

im going to need one, i want something high quality that will remote start, pop my hatch and be able to signal a pager, or come with one. i want as much pager range as possible. i dont know much about alarms, i had a viper on my old camaro and it was decent but this was 4 years ago. how difficult is it to install, because the shops around here want insane amounts of money, like 600 for an installed alarm. i was thinking i'd spend 150-300 on the alarm and add ons, then spend a few days installing it. anyone know of any forums like this but for alarm information?

haven't post much but need help building a sub box and am going to bolt it to the metal behind the back seat is there any other thing i should be doing? any help would be appreciated system is 2 -12 audiopipe txx12ap subs ( been using them for over 3 years) 2 - IA 20.1 ( these subs have never seen both amps ) (these amps are amazing ) 2 extra batteries just for the amps

i have a DMM ( wavetech ) what is the formula ??? how is it done ?

I'm up on the air on if I should buy the Focal PS165 components or a 270A alternator. I don't need the alternator at the moment since I'm not hooking up my second amp up until I ordery second 15.

ive been blabbering about it for months.ive done my comparisons and looked at these and looked at those and ive finally decided that i am going with Audioque...sooo i bought a single audioque sdc2.5 10... if this subs lives up to my expectations then ill be buying 7 more very soon...yes i said 7 for a total of 8...these will eventually be walled off in my truck but for now theybe going in my current box.which is a design by Pete at hexibase.ill build a a few different boxes for it and test them all.. pics and updates when it arrives...im on my last leg when it comes to 10inch subs so i hope this works out..

Hello to all! This is my first post and I'd like to get some info (please). I've a 2007 Subaru Forester that I plan on having a system installed and have some questions concerning the install. The system will consist of Tru amps, t03-250.2 (for sub) & t03-4.150 (for front tweets & mids). HU will be Clarion DRZ-9255. The speaks will be either Hybrid Audio Referernce or Seas Reference. Anyway, here are the questions & pardon me, I know only enough about installs to start a fire. 1-Are the DRZ-9255 crossovers active & do I need outbord crossovers? 2-Is there such a thing as a sub that can/will compliment the seas or Hybrid drivers? 3-I've only 2 inches of cle…

Did a 149.4 on music sealed on dash Iasca style. Did a 152.4 outlaw on music and burped a 152.9 at 39hz. Did all that with a 29hz tuning on hdc3's!

Dads got a ford 2009 f250 super duty that has got the disc changer with sync system. He took it to the dealer and when he got it back the cd player was f***ed like they shoved a disc in there and it got stuck. Of course they said they did not do it. So i am going to try to install a new head unit do i have to wire the sync system back in with the expensive harness or is there a way to bypass that If you got any info or ideas on this please let me know i thought around $100 is high for a wiring harness Thanks Kevin

Hey all So I'm going to be installing an 18" Nightshade in my trunk, and I have been trying to come up with a workable solution for a box design. Been sifting through threads but haven't really seen too many builds with a sub back/port front design or vice-versa. It seems that any other design would take up the entire trunk with little room for any other equipment. This is what I'm proposing: Top down view of the trunk. The yellow dashed line is the rear deck, about 19" total height clearance. The grey dashed line is the recessed spare tire well, about 6" or so deep. Box sides and top would be built as to contour around the wheel wells. This would be the view from the ba…

I've noticed that all my bass cd's are in my car 580 miles away in Houston, and so I need some bass songs. I'd love to get phill collins or any other bad ass bass song. Thanks Taylor

Hey first off this forum is badass, learned alot so far!! Well I'm building a new box for (2) 15" DC lvl4/wlvl5 dual 1 ohm coils. This is going to be my 10th box in my nissan frontier so far...havn't found exactly what I'm looking for, hopefully this'll be it. However this is my first L shaped slot port box, so I need some help guys. I've searched and searched and did some more searching and I can't find exactly what I'm looking for. I don't want to just post my problem them have somebody fix it for me, I want to understand this. It's driving me nuts that I just can't grasp it. Could someone give me exact measurments and explain why, so I'll have the knowledge to …

im peeling off my old deadner ED v1 i know most of u frown upon this but it did provide some deadning but some pieces have kinda slid off not much but were they fell off jammed my lock to my door so hence the total removal... just wondering if u guys know any nice products to clean up my door n get rid of the residue oh and any input on new deadner would be great im looking in to bquiet and ramatt? not sure if i spelled it right thnx

Well i bought a hk4000d and have heard they are current hogs... im going to be running it at 2 ohms to a 18" BL... probably around 1600 watts (or whatever is safe to run to a BL). I have a stock 130A alternator, and a run of 1/0 to my amp... ill be doing the big 3 soon. What type of electrical upgrades do i need? Would this battery http://www.remybattery.com/Products/Deka-I...9A31__9A31.aspx paired be enough? What about two? A HO alternator is out of the question because apparantly toyota used some special design for my truck (06 tundra) and the cheapest ive found is a 175A for 600