General Audio

ok well im in a bit of a tight squeeze. My car is old and i am unsure how long it will be running for, it might go for a year it might go for 7 more i dont know. So i am looking at cutting my old alt out of the question and putting a battery bank, well sort of in the trunk of my car. Im looking into prices and i could get 2 red top batts from wally world for the price of one g31 yellow top. The red tops are about 800cca, g35 i believe, where as the g31 is 1000+cca. now my question is which is the better alternative. running 2 batts i was thinking would help keep the voltage up but i am unsure of this because i know nothing about batterys. Or the other alternative is i cou…

Well originally I had a monster cassette adapter, worked well for 5 years, but as time went on, I got unlucky and one of my coworkers sliced the cord. So it still played, but only on the left speakers, it bugs me for a week before I decide to go to best buy and pick a new one up. Dynex or Rocket Fish? Both sound like crappy brands, lets get both! So I hook both of them up, they work, but are very quiet for some reason. I could listen to music at a normal level with them, but it required my H/U to be all the way turned up along with the ipod. So they both go back, and I go to a specialty store today, maybe 4 months after suffering with the monster one. It finally kicked th…

I put some in the hatch area of my car (97 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport) today and down in the spare wheel area but that's about as far as I got because I was getting too hot and hungry. I'll work on the rear doors and back seat area next week, then work my way forward from there. After I got cleaned up I drove down the road for some ice cream and maybe it's just the CD I put in (the new Big & Rich) but the subs kind of sounded... softer? But I also think they were a little cleaner sounding. Is that normal? Is that one of the properties of sound dampening? I guess I was expecting an opposite result, thinking it would focus more of the sound towards me. I prima…

well i went to connect the positive run of wire and as i started disconnecting the battery the alarm kept going off i went ahead and finished disconecting the battery then connected the positive run of wire then as i was reconecting it the battery the alarm started going off again then i tightened it all the way then waited for the alarm to go off then i tried to start the car and only the battery will go on it wont click or anything when i take the key out the alarm beeps what do i do?

I have enough room for a box 38w*15t*20d and the xcon recomends 4 cubic feet. whats the optimal size

Anyone have any eperience with these? I want a cheap DVD player/monitor for my son in my car, but I don't want something that's going to crap out in a few weeks. Sonic has what appears to be a decent one for $150.

i know youve prolly seen this in other forums but i cant stop staring at tthese things!!! Wonder how much it costs helix: brax: i can only dream....

I posted this over on the Mach 5 Audio section, too. Some short videoes of my 6th order wall in my Jeep. Two Mach 5 SPL 15's and an American Bass XD1800, so not a whole lot of power. My Powerbass XA3000D is in for repair. Still have a lot of tweaking and testing to get this build running full tilt. Thanks for the views! Door flex from the inside. 22 hz. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=2kVUFE3LjUo Roof flex/wave. My camera didn't pick it up very well. It's violent, though. 33 hz. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=xf__x8HY5As Some door flex at 20 hz. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=oEwtb79NM-g

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Well i bought a hk4000d and have heard they are current hogs... im going to be running it at 2 ohms to a 18" BL... probably around 1600 watts (or whatever is safe to run to a BL). I have a stock 130A alternator, and a run of 1/0 to my amp... ill be doing the big 3 soon. What type of electrical upgrades do i need? Would this battery http://www.remybattery.com/Products/Deka-I...9A31__9A31.aspx paired be enough? What about two? A HO alternator is out of the question because apparantly toyota used some special design for my truck (06 tundra) and the cheapest ive found is a 175A for 600

I have researched and researched but I cant seem to figure it out Cadillac CTS, stock Bose system, stock amp/10 inch subwoofer that has a bump that's not bad However I would like a tiny bit more bump I'm wondering if I can just replace the stock sub with an aftermarket one Any help will be appreciated Thanks

I plan on gettin either a Stetsom 11K2D or a Stetsom 14K2D. I was going to buy about four or five kinetik 2400's but I seen this battery. Is this ONE battery "Strong Enough" to power a Stetsom 11K2D or 14K2D all day everyday? Battery http://www.batcap.net/Products/BatCapProdu...91/Default.aspx

So my cousin just got a boat, he doesn't want big system, he wants something would just give him good sound, so my questions were that boats operate on 12v so i wouldn't need all those of marine audio or do I? Can I use like a regular car deck and speakers and amp? He just wants 4 speakers, 2 off the amp and other 2 off the Hu's power and leave the rear channel on the amp for a sub. But do you really need a sub for marine use would you be able to hear it? He just wants some thing little not go all out just for chillin...

So, I've been pondering this a while now... Why is it that the majority of home theater or home stereo drivers are designed for higher nominal resistance? Would the main reason to use 16 or 8ohm loads vs. 4ohm loads be to keep THD ratings down at the amplifier? If so, is this primarily just a result ipso facto of engineer marketing? THD ratings of 0.00000000001 into a 16ohm load sell's $1800 home amplifiers.

looking for other monitors similar to this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16824179015 i had that one, sold it...like an idiot...basically i was gonna do a carPC, and that monitor has a 12v power supply, so it'd be easier to wire up in a car (with a dc-dc regulator im guessing?) than getting one with an AC power supply and using a power inverter (what i dont want to do, noise/interference, etc.) are there any other brands that have 12v DC power supplies, around the 15-17" range (wide screen preferably, but if not, 4:3 will have to do) heres a test fit of it in my dash, as you can see, 16:9 would look better, but i could make this one look decent...

Ok, so I splurged a little when I bought my new car. I needed something small, since its a BMW 3 series. I got 2 12" JL W7's off a friend for 500. I need to make a box for these that will fit my trunk in the Bmw. If i give someone measurements of the trunk room I am working with can you guys help me with the measurements of the box so I can build one? Thanks, Kevin

I have a small problem, I have two plates that will be joined with Lamello biscuits at a 45 degree angle. I have found some solution that uses tape at one side, but I feel that it will not put enough pressure on the plates. Does someone know a good way to clamp them together? edit:; I forgot to mention that the end of the plates that will be used to join them together are cut at a 22,5 degree angle.

I have gotten a copy of Disc 4 from a set that was sold on SD. It has polarity tracks, left and right channel test track, test tunes and a whole bunch more. A good test CD if anyone is looking. I will make copies at 7$ and mail the USPS, hopefully shipping them like Blockbuster does won't break them. Anyone interested?

Had m bud Regal1975 stop over yesterday and try out the Linear X. He has 2 Kicker 10" L7's with 1100 RMS on each one. He has them in a small Nissan truck with the rear glass removed and the subs right there. 2 subs on the pass side and the port on the right. Ended up doing a 144.7 on the dash. All he could say was Evil X

I am stumped on this and it may just be something simple. Alright I am running an MS8 to (2) kicker IX 500.4s. Each amp is bridged for the front stage (one amp for horns, the other for mids). For some reason only the right side gets signal. I can mess around and get both sides to play by mixing the RCAs around. I am using RCA splitters on each channel from the MS8 to go into all the RCA inputs on the amplifiers. I'm lost

well... i'm not at home and won't be there for awhile, and i don't have winISD here. i'm just needing someone to find out the port length for me please!!! box is 4 cuft after displacements tuned to 31hz port is 4.5" wide by 12.5" tall all help is greatly appreciated!!

which sub would be a kick ass daily driver?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5747933882&rd=1 can someone plz tel me what the catch is here?

Hi guys, I'm new at this. Not really sure how to post. But here goes. I am planning to to connect up 2 amps. A 300w mono amp to 10inch Sub & a 4ch 640w(max out put) to 2 front splits and 2 rear speakers. I am gonna run a 4 gauge from battery to a distribution block and then run 2x 8 guage to the amps. am i using the right gauges? i was also thinking of running a 1 farad cap from the distribution block aswell. My plan is 3x 8guage from distribution block. 2 to the amps and 1 to the cap, is this the right way to wire it up?Also my friend told me that it is not necessary to pre charge the cap. Is this true? Coz i have read some forums and they say to charge it prior to …

so heres the deal. 2 SSAicon 12's . 2 Phoenix Gold V1502's. i'm not 100% sure but it seems like a 1.5 (i think) 2 12 sealed box. the amount of power the SSA's are amazing. anyways so i have a 98 malibu (folding back seats) right now i have the subs facing the back. i'm sick of having the box sliding around and afraid of damage so i'm going to put some L brackets to brace it. but first should i have the subs facing the back or should they be facing the front?