General Audio

I installed a Optima yellow top battery as my second battery. I previously had a 4 farad Cap in the trunk and the power wire was ran from the main battery to a 0 gauge splitter and 4 gauge was ran from the splitter to the Cap and the Sundown SAX1200d. I removed the Cap and added the battery in the same spot(I added a 150A fuse to the 4 gauge run from the splitter to the secondary battery). Should I run the 0 gauge wire coming from the main battery directly the second battery or is it fine the way it is? Again I have the batteries fused with 400A total between the 2.

I have a sundown 1500d and stock electrical right now ... and it probably wont change to much im looking into getting into bassracing ... ive heard a little about it but i want some information on it ... possible box/woofers/etc. i have a focus hatchback so i know its capable of hitting solid numbers with the vehicle... i really have a budget for woofer and box .... around 400 dollars ... if you could alittle help would greatly apprieicated, thank you fellas

Hi, I recently just got a ford 2003 explorer, along with that i got a JL W7 13.5 and an amp that ive allready had, i just dont know anything about ohms or all this car electrical crap my Sub specs can be found here http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13692116/JL-Audio-13W7AE-D1-5.html?showAll=N&search=jl_w7_13&skipvs=T#details-tab and my amp here http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17599_Hifonics-BXi-2610D.html I just need to know if this setup will work cause my sub has dual voice coil with 1.5 ohms per coil but the amp only does 1, 2 and 4 ohms i believe? i just dont know if this is to much power or what, im also using 0 gauge wire, and i have a 1200 Kinetik batter…

This system won't happen for a very long time, because school is my main focus right now, and it keeps me from home and my truck. I have a '93 Range Rover LWB, so plenty of space. Electrical consists of a 220amp alternator, 1/0 Big three, and a yellow top under the hood. Right now I have two fully loaded Fi SSD 15's on an Audioque 2200d. This system is pretty loud and fun, but it's not loud enough for me to be like dam, I need to turn it down quite yet. I want to run either Fi, SSA, or DC in the next system. The amp I KNOW I want to run is the Sundown 3500d, just having trouble deciding on 2 15's or 4 12's. I love the sound of 15's and how they can hit so low, so that's …

http://www.the12volt.com/cgi-bin/quiz.asp here is my results http://www.the12volt.com/cgi-bin/quiz/quiza.pl put in Dave_Edwards for the screenename

Hey guys I currently have a DMX12 just laying around thought I should build a box for it. Was wondering if anyone has had any experience with this driver before or had any ideas on box dimensions for it. I know nothing about this sub I got it on a trade = to $150 and it has never been used. I have no info on what car this will go into but it will be for street beats in a ported box so any dimensions you guys want to throw at me I will probably do.

looking for other monitors similar to this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16824179015 i had that one, sold it...like an idiot...basically i was gonna do a carPC, and that monitor has a 12v power supply, so it'd be easier to wire up in a car (with a dc-dc regulator im guessing?) than getting one with an AC power supply and using a power inverter (what i dont want to do, noise/interference, etc.) are there any other brands that have 12v DC power supplies, around the 15-17" range (wide screen preferably, but if not, 4:3 will have to do) heres a test fit of it in my dash, as you can see, 16:9 would look better, but i could make this one look decent...

Ihave six 15s and the subs will be facing up, should I do port up or the port facing back this is going in a Denali

Simple noob question... I built a box for 2 10in DCON's but since they haven't come yet (day 8) can I throw my 2 old 10in alpine type-s subs in for now? will the spacing/distance for the screws be the same?

Does the xs batteries listed in the store carry the warranties advertised on other sites? I've seen the d series have a 3yt and the xs have 2yr. Just want to make sure their warranted before buying. Thanks!

Hey guys so I have just finished the new build as some of you have seen in the sundown section and the last step i want to do is to seal off the trunk to from the cabin. A buddy of mine said to use expanding foam! Notice in the pic under neath at the top of the sub box there is a 2.5inch gap I want to fill up and about 1-2inch on each side of the box I want to put expanding foam in. now my questions are 1. how many cans will i need 2. is there a specific name to look for or is it all the same 3. how do i do it? just point and shoot? 4. what tips can you recommend 5. how do I remove expanding foam? 6. is there an alternative to expanding foam something that works bett…

Forgive me if this is in the wrong section, I figured "General" was most appropriate, feel free to move if it's not, just don't flame me too hard. Yes, I know this has nothing to do with sound! With that said, I want to add a backup camera onto my truck for my Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT. I'm overwhelmed with the amount of options out there. I believe CCD gives a better image than CMOS. Just not sure even where to start and what to look for, if anyone is experienced in this department. I mean, Christ. Look at it. Same amount of options at Al & Ed's, SonicElectronix, Pacific, WoofersEtc, etc. http://www.al-eds.com/Back-upForward-facing-Cameras-c439.html Thanks.

Playing in the 10"port..

no

So looking into amps to power my speakers and tweeters but Im wondering if the high/low pass filters vs the frequency response of the amp actually affects the speakers and tweeters. Since the High pass is only 50-200Hz does this affect anything. Example Im looking into the 2010 Kicker zx350.4 Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave) Frequency response: 20-20000 Hz Speakers: MB Quart DKG 168 (DKG168 Tweeter: MB Quart PTK 40 (PTK40

Is there a way, such as a calculation, or some type of rule of thumb to determine what alternator, as well as how many batteries it will take to run a certain system? Are there any guidelines to determine these values? For example, lets say i have a 5000 watt system, can i plug that into an equation, or some sort of outline to determine what size alternator i would need, and how many batteries i would need? or if i wanted an 8000watt system, same thing.... Is there a rule, like for every 1000watts you need a certain amount of amps within a battery? I am not trying to figure anything out for myself, I am just askin for basic knowledge to see if there is an easy way to d…

I have enough room for a box 38w*15t*20d and the xcon recomends 4 cubic feet. whats the optimal size

does anybody know where i can find some? ive been searching for a little while now for downloads, but i cant seem to find them. any help is greatly appreciated.

Ok I have a 2013 ford fusion with ford mytouch. Touchscreen is connected to all the electronics in the car so running an aftermarket HU is out of the question because it will affect everything in the car. I have a 15" sp4 and im planning to run it on a sundown 3500. My question is if i use a line driver (audio control, LOC, etc) to connect my amp to my Factory HU will I lose output or my lows by doing this compared to running an aftermarket HU? I just don't want to run an amp and sub if i can't get its full potiential. Thanks!

i was taking my rear deck lid out then i wanted to turn my system on and the subs didnt work...the little blue thin wire came out (the remote wire i think) and i need to know where to put it.its connected on the sub amp i just need to know where the other end goes....im pretty sure it doesnt go on my cap but i dont know alot about that.......thanks guys

OK. so I am just about decided on the new sub project. I have a jeep cherokee, with (2)mb quart qsd 6" sets, running of off an orion 8004. I have a optima yellow top under the hood, but stock alt, and wires from alt to bat. I want.... to run two 15" havocs off of a Orion 2500D. I'm going to run 1/0 under the hood, and to amp. and get ho alt. my questions are... #1. How big of an alt. do i really need, as anything over 240-250A gets spendy. #2. How many/what kind of battery's should I put next to the 2500d? optima? kinetic? #3. Are batcap's worth a damn(once again, mixed reviews)...? I have heard mixed reviews about the optima's, but Ive had mine for almost a year n…

I was wondering whether or not I needed it. Im getting a Q 15' and I wanted to know if it would rattle enough for me to need dyna-mat. I have a little truck,chevy s10 ex.-cab, so it wouldnt be too expensive to do jw if its necesary.

Hello there I own a crescendo bc 3500 and someone has offered to trade their sound quebed 4500 for my BC 3500 is this a fair trade or a mistake ?

I will be doing a blowthrough in my truck, gonna order amps and such on Wednesday. Anyhow, it is going to be 4 12" BLs, but my question is, how do you think I should do my port. I was thinking staggering the 4 subs. The two outside ones low, the two middle higher up allowing the subs to sit closer together, and doing one big square port in the middle of the box. My goal is to be a rid. loud daily pounder with possible compeition...will this work?

Well i can hear the Bl is reeking havoc on my box when it hits the low notes i can hear an air leak even with a monster port. Thing is id like to be able to have to option to move from one 15bl too two down the road. Question is do i build 2 separate boxes and just leave one out for now or do i make say a 8+cuft box and run one in it for now. I don't think that would work considering the port area would be to large for just the one sub right? Anyways i got a 21.5xin40inx26in (HxWxD) space to work with and i can barley manage it but i can get two 21x20x26 boxes with 4.01cuft after displacement and tuned to 32hz in there. what do you guys think i should do?