General Audio

whats the best way to do this? run an isolator or not? I was told by a stereo repair man its best not to run an isolator, just make a run of pos. and ground it, that way both batteries are constantly charging and avail. for current draw from the amps. I'm not well versed in this area... help.

I am trying to design a system that will give me very strong punchy output specifically to reproduce the sound and FEEL of drums, kickdrums, etc found in rock music. It needs to sound good, and get loud. To what end would to go to achieve this goal? Is it subs, midbass drivers, high powered components? Door/vehicle treatment? Speaking specifically about the subwoofer portion for now, how should I start? I have 8 cubes of space and about 1000 RMS available, with the ability to do 1800-2200 in the future if need be.

i didnt see a wiring section so i hope its ok here, my question is this..if i have 2 kicker zx 2500.1 amps and a 4 channel kicker amp zx650.4 with a extra batter up front and 2 kenetik batteries in the back exzactly how many of these kits would i need to wire this all up properly? http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=2991 i know it says $130 but im getting it half the price from ebay..

I am in the process of gathering pieces to form a more SQ based setup, and would like to eliminate having to flip through cd's all the time. With high capacity portable hard drives out there running off just usb power (wd my passport, for example) and lossless .WAV files it would seem like an ideal solution is available. However, I cannot seem to find a head unit geared towards SQ that has unlimited usb recognition. My google searches come up with useless info. I wonder if anyone here knows of or has experience with such a beast. I was leaning towards the deh-p800prs (man is it sexy) until I read elsewhere that it only has like 4gb recognition(with a separate adapter…

Ok, here is my dilemma. I currently have a ford ranger. Later this year I will be pickin up a chevy silverado (4 door). my wife has given me a choice with the two. I could either do a fiberglass lid on the Silverado and do a blowthrough with, perhaps 3 15" BTL's or a can put a camper shell on the ranger and build a wall with something like 2 18" BTLs. The Silverado will be my daily driver, so I think she is wanting me to do the system in that and makin the ranger for nothing but haulin stuff. I was curious as to what you guys would do. I am in a split decision between the two and am hopin your opinions could help me make a better decision. THANX

When running a 16 volt system for my amps, do I have to get a special 16 alternator or do I just put a high output alternator on 16 volt batteries. Also do any of you guys know if the kicker 1500.1's can handle 16 volts?

I have talked to Dom Iraggi and I know for sure I am getting his 4 alt bracket. I've had multiple people who I trusted tell me to run at least one 200a or smaller alternator in order to support my normal car functions. After talking to Dominick Iraggi he told me to get 4 260amp alternators, that they would supply me with the most power for my daily driving setup, since they have great idling amperage and I would never see full power without reving the engine (which I wouldn't do). I know plenty of guys on here run 300a alts and bigger, so thats where my conflict comes in there. I want to make sure I'm giving my amps as much power as possible, and I'm willing to go as sma…

I'm putting in a new system 300 amp alternator 4x khc 2000 and yellow top under the hood on a IA 40.1 amp. The subs still thinking about what I should run with this amp any suggestions? I would like to keep the volts at 14.4 no lower than 14.1. Can some tell me how I can do this without have any voltage drop? Do I need to set up the system for 16v to keep the volts at a steady 14.1 or higher?

on how much a system would cost if i was going to run 2 15'' fully loaded btl, 2 saz-3000d, box, and electrical components? this might be for a future system by next fall im just wondering on how much a ball park estimate the cost would be

Ive been looking into subs for a few months now and i still dont understand alot of it. just got my liscence and am bound to get a car soon. basically i want something that would be really really loud but i dont have unlimited money. i litsen to pretty much all rap and hip-hop. i was lookin at getting one 15" btl cause it seems like one of the best out there. if i were to get this what would you recomend as far as an enclousure and amp and anything else. if you think theres a better sub or something different i should get im up for all suggesrtions. thanks in advance

I got my orion 2500d back from the stereo doc. last night and wired up one of my subs to the amp @ 4 ohms. didn't play much with the eq. and junk, just set it at about 80Hz, and gain about 3/4. My kinetik 2400 has not got here yet, so its only drawing from the yellow top under the hood at the moment, but it seems to do fine with the load boss 230A alt., at all but full volume, then I need to step on the gas a little to keep the volts up around 12. the box is a "team toxic bass/ hexi-base" horn enclosure tuned to about 45Hz. guys were bored at the shop so I stopped in to test out the single 15" 144.7 db thats on music, a random song.... not bad huh? sounds amazingly clean …

i wanna get some power master cells... but i will not pay msrp.... any ideas where i can find some? i went to the website and thay want you to email them for pricing... sounds scary... price range anyone?

I need 2.5 cubes @ 33Hz. The box will be 15Hx36Wx12.5D with 3/4mdf which should net 2.96cuft.Displacement 0.14cuft. Now the problem! Can anyone tell me what tune the box will have if I go 2.5Wx14L?? I think I am way off here. After adding .75 to the ports width for the wood wall I finished with 2.47cuft. Which is pretty close to the 2.5cuft goal. I am open for suggestions with the whole box and can trash the 15h x 36w idea. Also, would be great if I knew the exacts for finding a ported boxes tune in standard. Thanks for any ideas and help in advance.

For all of you that make your own RCA's, which ends do you use and where do you get them? I'm going optical from my IVA-D310 to my PXA-H701 and rca's from there so they really dont need to be long TechFlex, how do you know what size you need to use? Please give me examples i.e. 1/0 needs 1", 3 runs of 12AWG speaker wire need 5/8" etc And what ratio heat shrink should I use for the TechFlex as well Thanks

ok here is the amp http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/sh...ewpost&t=44821 its a ****ty overrated amp my friend is using. he just hooked them up and i haven't seen it yet so i don't know what load he put on the amp. so in 2 and 1 ohm what should i tune the gains too? in voltz

I am in need of a box design. I have a 99 grand am and Im going to build a ported box for one of my atlas15

I Just put the pio 880 in my 98 expe, and that deck is awesome. I am in love. It even makes the factory set up tolerable.... almost. Well I know what I need to do next and thats basic electrical and deadening, while I wait to see if I want to do an alarm etc. I'm going to go active in the front and am still undecided about placement of speakers and then in turn about what size drivers..and how I want to go about it, so I'm going to switch gears and work on the bass and deadening and electrical for a while. I am completely lost on the big 3 and it will take me a long time to figure those out I think. I have read it's practical to just double up with the factory instead…

i have about 1200 watts on the system and the oem alternator i think is 80 amps. i want to get an extra battery in the trunk. i can either get the kinetik hc800 or the hc1400. i do not know if my stock alternator will be able to handle the battery under the hood and the hc1400. i can buy the 1400 from a friend for about 140 so its a good deal. but im afraid that my alternator will die if i use the hc1400 instead of the hc800. does anyone know if i could go with the hc1400? o and i also have a H/O alternator with 130amps but i dont know if it actually does more than stock at idle so i dont know if the h/o alternator would be any better at powering the extra hc1400. any hel…

Im looking to get a high output alternator but have no clue who makes them and were to look. Its a 2007 Nissan Versa. Can anybody help me out with some links and info.

This is the problem... I ordered about 6 weeks ago 2 Kinetik Audio HC1800 batteries on Ebay at IndoAudio (yes, my own stupid mistake). And since then I didn't receive any batteries. Now I am looking to get my cash back from Paypal / Ebay. Anyways, I still need 2 good brand batteries, which can feed my amplifiers. Amplifiers in use (or soon to be used): - 2x (strapped) SAZ-1500D - 1x SAX-100.4 (bridged) What brands (and preferably what types) can you recommend. I am on limited space in my trunk for the batteries; so smaller in size is good, but bigger in size is a no go! Thanks for your help. /edit I currently own 1 Optima Yellow Top in my current car hifi configuration, b…

hey everyone. i got a set of x-overs and was wondering if u can help with the settings. when i take the cap off there is a wire that goes to eather "A" or "B" plug. there is also another wire that can go to low, med, can't remeber the third one, and loud. what are all these for. thanks for your help guys.

I was wondering if anyone here has an Expedition or any other vehicle (other than a tahoe) and has put a D3100 under the hood. I think I saw a picture a while back of someone with a Ranger or F-150 with one under the hood but they mounted it sideways. If someone can offer some advice on something I could do to make it fit I'd gladly take it. I'm gonna get it under there one way or the other!! Thanks.

Before I get into too much detail I need to go over some information about the gear I'm working with. I currently have a 2.7cu ft box with a 15" sub in it that takes up most of my trunk. I have just enough space to fit my Cadence TXA-1000D amp in front of it. I also have a Pioneer GM-6300F 4ch amp. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Pro...Series/GM-6300F So my sub and mono amp are going in the trunk, and I'm trying to determine placement of my amp and consequent amp install gear, both of which are variables that depend upon each other for optimal results. So I purchased this http://www.tsunamionline.com/product.php?id=532 a couple of months ago. (view page source to g…

http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/ende...amp;cmd=keyword How can you pass up $0.00 dollars?

I have 2 15" lanzar subs hooked up to a 1400 watt lanzar amp.. how do you wire the amp down to .5 ohms so it will be max porformace 1300 watts??