General Audio

Ok i need your guys help im doing a fiberglass box in the back of my car its in the build logs. box will be around 1.7 cubic feet, it will be for a single treo ssi or ssx 10 i will be using areo ports just was wondering what people think i should use for ports like sizes and combonations im thinking 2 3's would work but thats not alot of port area what do you guys think.

how come toi get this error when i try to list in classifieds [#10CFDM2024] You do not have permission to list adverts. not sure if am in the right section

I got to hang out at TC Sounds earlier this week and check out all of the new toys in the works. Pics and a full write-up are below. http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/280 Enjoy.

I accidently punchered my surround today. more like a slice. does anybody know what I can buy to seal it up as a band-aid. Don't want to pay for a recone till I really mess it up. I heard that car window sealent works well, but dont know. anybody body got any suggestions?

What's up all, Here's my situation that's kind of annoying. Randomly as Im driving listening to my system which consists of: Head.: Pioneer 7800MP Front: CDT HD-62/DRT26s/EX-560i F.Amp: Arc Audio 2100 CXL Subw.: Ascendant Audio 10" Assassin S.Amp: US Amps XT-800.2 My highs will just cutout. However, they'll come back on if I turn the volume up. The arc 2100 was bought used from ebay, and im thinking that's my culprit. Not too sure. What do you think?

I want to build a box for 2 12 inch pioneer ts 3002d4 subs. Any ideas to where i can find either a blueprint or measurements for a box?

basically, i've had a major drop in bass in my car. i have 2 fi BLs and 2 kicker 1000w amps. initially, i had trouble with my iPod cable(dock to aux cord , the 7$ one from ebay) so i bought a new one. well now all of a sudden, my cds have also lost the quality. the stock speakers in the door hit harder as of right now. when i turn the knob all the way and put the volume up, i finally get what i should be getting at about 1/4 turned. i looked at the amps thinking 1 of them was dead and they both were fine. i dont really know much about wiring but will probably read up on it 2morrow since i will have some free time to look at it, but this is what basically happens http://pi…

My buddy recently purchased a set of Adire Koda Components. The woofer is going to be placed in the stock door locations. We are just wondering about the tweeter placement. The stock tweeter location is on top of the dash reflecting off the windshield. I know the Kodas work good off axis so I figured the windshield could work well. Any objections or suggestions?

After only 1 year my JBL component tweeter died. I am officially done with made in China garbage, this set wasn't even cheap! I replaced them with an MB Quart RVF 269 set I found at a local shop for $140. Made in Germany is on everything, even a sticker on a bag of hardware! This set sounds way better than the JBLs for half the price. I wished they were silk tweeters, but I guess you can't have everything. Now I need to save up another $150 to get that DCON.

i wanna get some power master cells... but i will not pay msrp.... any ideas where i can find some? i went to the website and thay want you to email them for pricing... sounds scary... price range anyone?

Sealed my box with resin, waited 5 days before I mounted my sub and put the box in my trunk, got in the car the next day and could smell the resin. It wasn't super strong but I could definitely smell it. can the fumes damage my sub? Is the fact that I can still smell it a sign I didn't mix the resin and hardener correctly? It has been cold lately so maybe it isn't curing properly? Should I be concerned?

so i have decided to go with a setup that would have a set of Rainbow 3-way components up front, which i believe would eliminate my need for rear speakers. so the question at hand is, when i remove the rear speakers would i be better off leaving the speaker holes open or closing them up? the car is a 99 Altima, the rear speakers are 6.5" and the setup in the trunk is a SSA XCON 18 in a 5.4 cu ft sealed enclosure.

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/03/06/212511.html. clicky above

Nope

Clarion DXZ576USB 4) SoundStream TRC.6n's Crunch P1800.4 '08 RE XXX 15" D2 Memphis 4KW 4ft^3 @ 33hz (as RE suggested, building a new one!!) 4/0 power and grounds Big 3 in 2/0 Ohio Generator 300A alt. with tiny pulley pair of BatCap 2000's in the trunk With the above setup (different subwoofer) what class would that put me in? Also if i decided to go with a wall, I assume that would change it so what class would a wall put me in? It is going to be a single 15" either way... amp running at 1ohm

this is what i have first off. then the question. HU is a Kenwood Excelon XXV-01D, comps would be a set of Illusion LM-6 mids and rainbow tweets. amps would include a orion 8002 for the mids, and a orion 2002 for the tweets. NOW, for the quetions. seeing how the HU has a pretty good x-over on it. could i use that for the prossesing and use the front pre-outs for the tweets and the rear for the mids. (HU also has sub outs too) if that wouldn't work, what kinda prossesor should i use, what what kinda settings should i have it on. thanks.

hi all i am planning out a 6th order bp that i will be building shortly and am planning on using pvc ports and was wondering if i could use two 3 in ports in place of a 6in port or if it doesnt excactly double thanks

I have not had my truck in months, and last night I stayed up through the night to re-install some old equipment I have had, and damn I forgot how nice and pure the RF fanatic Q's and the old RF amps on them sound, oh yeah, cranked the Overdrive back up and have the Eclipses shaking crap in cars next to me, :487: I missed that so much, just all clean and loud abusive sound, just gotta clean the laser on the Eclipse HU humm prep the beast for next season soon

I'm really at a point where I honestly have no idea what i want to get. I am already storin up my first years insurance money, and once i get a solid job, the money for the car itself. I know for a fact i am gettin a '00 ford explorer 4dr, there is a man selling several (like 8!) so i'll grab the black one when the money is right. I have said a whole lotta stuff in the past, just from eyeballin other people setups. I think i'd do better off to ask people who actually have expereince, more than booksmarts, what they would do in a given situation. Goal is alotta SPL on music. SQ doesnt hurt, but loud is the priority. The possibilites i have come up with: Four icon 15's on t…

Hi, iv'e seen something very strange for the first time. Iv'e installed by sound from old car to new. A 2000w sub on a 2500w amp. 1 x hi to low convertor and speakers still run of factory radio. Amp mounted on rear seat. When the volume is all the way up and the trunk is open every thing seems fine. But when the trunk is closed and the volume turned softer until 0, the sub keeps on pounding, very loudly. But if the 1500w amp is tested, everything is normal. Could this be because of the hi to low convertor or because the speakers are still running on factory radio?

I'm just wondering where you guys get your speaker box carpet from.

since the ultimate installer is avoiding me, i need a new installer here in the pittsburgh or surrounding areas. must know how to cut wood to build sealed and ported boxes and mdf rings for speakers, running wires for systems and possibly fiberglassing. please tell them to e-mail me at [email protected] or to send me a pm here.

Well ive heard of this brand before and i had never actually seen any of their products...i was wondering if it was an "ok" brand...cuz their prices on amazon are good...and i was thinking of buying their 3000w amp and 3 of their 1000w subs...at 1.34ohms should be enough power for these subs...please give me sum insight cuz its a gift for my lil brothers bday...and my budget is around $1000

My friend has been having some system problems. At higher volumes his system would completely shut down. The headunit would turn off and then come back on. His volt meter has never dipped much below 13 volts. He has an alpine headunit with a kenwood mono amp and alpine sub. Any ideas and what is causing this or what could be done to figure it out?

I know some about car audio, mostly from my modding and electrical work, but I'm still confused about a few things...so bear with me. 1. SPL or Daily - we all know there's a difference, what will you be using your system for? - But what EXACTLY does this adhere to? I'd be using my system on a daily basis, not maxed out all the time, but I'm a major basshead, so there will be many occasions where I'll be wanting to tear the chit out of the guy next to me, without putting any stress on my system (subs specifically) whatsoever. So what would be better? SPL or daily? SPL gives you more power and punch correct? While daily gives you lasting performance right? Well I want the p…