General Audio

ive been lookin at getting 2 12" kicker CVX subs with a kicker zx1500.1, or 1 15" maybe 18" Fi BL with a kicker zx1500.1 which set up will most likly be louder when put in proper box??

I'm really uncomfortable with this question as I dont want to feel needy. But I think a while back I seen someone say that had another member build them a box. Not sure though. But if that person did build a box I was wanting to know how much they would charge for box I need and what would be the Pickup/Shipping terms. Thanks In Advance ~MadroX *Edit* Im pretty sure I posted this in the wrong Area...... My Bad

Whats the difference between those 2 terms?

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18126

It will house 2 RF P212d4's. Not the new black models the older ones with the removable magnet cover. I would be able to design one but I do not have the manual and rockford's website does not either. It is going in a Scion TC so I am going to build it to specs which is 1.75 cubes per sub. Tuning anywhere from 35-40hz. I will be powering them with a Diamond D3 400.1. Height cannot be more than 12", W cannot be more than 40", and D cannot be more than 16". Someone please design me a good ported box for these woofers to these specs. Thanks.

Can you use kicker power wire for both the fire and ground or does it have to be specific. power wire to fire and ground wire to negative? hope this makes since

well i had some time to mess around with things today in the gf's car (05 grand am) and got to taking apart the doors. to my suprise the stocks are 4x6's and not the 6.5's i assumed they were . didnt really want to get to involved with it as i said, its the gf's car. think some decent 4" or 4x6's with amp would be good enough or should i bare down and custom the 6.5's? if you were in my sit. what would you do?

Hey I was wondering if anyone here had made a enclosure or kick panels with fiberglass and had luck with it. I don't really know where to start or what works and what dosen't. I want to build a box for a sub or maybe some kick panels because Im getting borded with just plain boxes and want to build something unique. What do I need to buy and where can I get the materials? Are there any web sites that would help me? What do you use to cover the fiberglass after you lay it? Is it just plain bondo? I have never used fiber glass before, but I know my way around a shop just want to expand my horizons. Any info would help a lot.

Why is this happening? I am running 2 MD3's strapped on 2 HD3 15's, an amp on each sub, and it sounds good but everytime I turn my truck off the subs pop, not like distortion pop but just not a quiet turn off. Is there anything I can do to make it a quiet turn off. It does this with the volume on 0, the shop that was able to strap my amps properly told me that it is normal with large systems. Is this true or is there something that I can do to make it turn off quiet? Is it anything that I need to worry about, is it damaging to the equipment? And my HU is a Kenwood KDC-X891 if that makes a difference. Pretty much what could be causing this? And do I need to worry about it?

where can i find them i need some for my next build please help

whats going on guys, i need a little advise on amps. a month or so ago i finally blew one of my old 12's after years of abuse. i decided to replace them with the kicker 12 inch cvx's(4ohm). problem is the kickers are literally sucking the life outta my old amps, so iv been lookin to up grade them as well. i really like the kicker zx series but its kinda expensive. my question is. i can buy 2 zx750.1 cheaper than a zx1500.1. would this be the way to go? isnt it the same power? witch would cause a larger draw on my charging system? i dont have much experence with mono block amps. arnt u only suppose to use one speaker on one mono block? someone told me to get the 1500.1 …

Attention guys who work at shops: on a Pioneer AVIC-S1 portable G.P.S., how do you go about in upgrading the maps?

After too much planning my friend has decided to drop money for the system in his maxima and here is what we came up with... Headunit: Pioneer Premier 6900 Amp: Kicker 650.4 Speakers: Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS Subwoofers: 2x 12" SD-1 Miscellanous: Knu 4 Gauge Amp Kit KOL-AK44 Deadning: 1 Roll Raamat BXT and 5 yards of ensolite Mostly I will be stuffing the deading and ensolite into the doors and trunk to help the midbass and trunk rattle as much as possible. The 2 12's will be in a ported box tuned nice and low (sub 30's). I'm thinking a foward fire with ports runni…

Just as topic said. I plan to upgrade my alternator. Currently my alternator is rated at 60 amps (I know...) and plan to upgrade maybe twice the size (minimum of 100 amps) for daily. I dont need high power alternator as I am not competing... well maybe 1 or 2 comps doesnt hurt. My question is, is there a risk of upgrading to a bigger alternator??? Do i just swap it, make a bracket for the new alternator? Or do I really need to install 2nd battery for that. Reason being is that I was told by the shop that if you upgrade to a big alternator.. it will fried all your electrical components in your car as its capable to put out more current than the stock alternator. I unde…

Well Ive wanted an oscope for a while now and crt scopes are a little out of the price range even used ones. Im wondering if the hand held ones with the lcd screens would have enough resolution to see a clipping sine wave. Ive seen the video how the were showing how bass boost is bad but cant really tell how good the resolution of the lcd screen due to video quality. Ive used crt scopes in electronic classes and wondering how lcd compares to crt So who here has used the lcd scopes and are they sufficient enough for car audio. I used crt scopes in electronic classes Heres what im looking at http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=320-290

I am planning on getting 2 15" BL's with about 8 cubic feet of volume in a ported box to about 30 hz (I love lows, the lower the better). So how do you guys think this will perform? Also I have heard great things about Sundown and that they make great amps so what model amp or amps would fit these subs good, and what kind of electrical and front stage upgrades am I looking at to make this sound great? Also I have heard of the Q's hitting upper 140's with just one 15, so would this be that much louder if it is a good setup? Also just to let you know I come from one of those towns where everyone gets a boner for JL's and Audiobahns so I am ready to blow someone away when I…

Hello, New to the forum, got turned on to it by a guy on the last forum I was a member of (audio-neon was his screen name). I am slowly buying up the components of my yet to be installed system. I have my sub (TCSOUNDS TC3000 15" DVC). I have my deck (Eclipse 3100) Xover (Audio control EQX) and the Epicenter. I ordered 1/0 wire 30ft of power and ground. I have done the big 3 already and have power and ground run directly from the engine bay to the trunk. I have a 3.2cubic foot sealed (2.6 cubic ft ported tuned to about 28 hertz) box built. I am leaning toward some CDT Components for the rest of my speakers. I have a zapco Z400c4 amp I am also leaning toward running the fr…

what amp should i use to run 6 tweeters by clarion, i have a 2 channel amp to run to of them but iwant to get louder, and i have the battery power to run the beasts, so suggestions anyone.

I'm getting ready to install and aftermarket sub and amp to my friends Ford Edge. I have a Stinger LIne Output Converter for the Edge. Problem is....is that they don't make one for the 07'. It's the same wire scheme, but I can't directly hook it up using the factory harness. I was going to cut and splice the wire and hook it up that way, but not sure which wires are positive, negative, and which wire is the ground. I really need your help. Everything is ready to go except this step. Photo of the Factory harness from the Edge. This harness hooked into the factory amp.

My company is developing the industry's first line of factory replacement headunits. They require no dash kit and wiring harness on various model vehicles which are entirely "Bolt-n-Replace" with factory look, often factory functionality as well as like steering wheel controls and in-demand features like Bluetooth, Navigation, iPod, XM, Sirius Satellite and DVD. We need Sound Solutions Audio to help us strategize which features and model vehicles would be best. We're launching next month with models for Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Buick, Chevy, Hummer, Pontiac, Saturn, Suzuki, Toyota, Scion and Volkswagen with more to follow and want to ensure that we…

I'm looking for a new vehicle. Something like an suv or truck. I've been looking at Jeep Cherokee, Dodge Durango,and the Land Rover Discovery, Early 2000 models. I'm really leaning toward to Land rover as they are almost all leather with sunroofs. I was just wondering how good these cars are as far as Stock Quietness, Window seals, ability to add speakers (my next system will be a 3 way active so fitting that in there will be key.) Also if anyone knows any similar vehicles they have liked gimme a shout and I'll take a look.

i've been planning a new box for my 10" bl for quite sometime. is there a rule to about how far a port can be from the woofer? would it be better to have the port fire out closer to the speaker or farther?

I cant figure out where to lay the 0 ga wire so it wont show under the carpet! any suggestions?

why does box bracing make the box quite?

Hey there, First time here. Looks like quite an interesting site -- I got a lot of reading to do I have a 1968 Camaro that I have a custom system in. I have 2 JL 12" subs in the trunk right now, that are just in a standard sealed box. I am wondering what the best setup would be for my subs. Do I want to keep a sealed box? Do I want a ported box? Do I want them facing away from the passengers or towards them? I have them facing away currently -- as that is what I was always told to do, but then again I see some people mounting their subs inward. Any advice would be great, thanks. Jeff