General Audio

Well I need to find some screws and I'm not having any luck. They are allen head machine-type screws for the chassis of an amplifier. I've searched high and low locally....from big box stores to mom-&-pop hardware stores to RC Hobby shops. Everything I've found is either too large or doesn't have the right thread pattern. Anybody have an idea of a good store or website to look on to find somewhat obscure screws ?

thanks to Rich for the box, Steve Miller at RD for the amp, and teamquickcelica (at caf.com) for the sub

Hi, I need some tips to reduce vibration noises in Golf Cab 1989... On doors: - I have applyied a vibrational damper to the outer door skin. - I have fitted an absorbent product behind the speakers - I have filled holes with a adhesive damper product - I have applyied a vibrational damper to the inner door skin. Trunk and roofs - I have applyied a vibrational damper and an isolator product. I have done another tasks on trim panels, license plate... using polyurethane foam and urethane seam sealer. On interior body, vibration noises have been halved but I don't know how to reduce the noises prompted by metal framework of top cover. Some idea??? Sorry for my poor english. T…

i was told by re that the mt really dont need that much power to bump why do the btl need so much power if their just about the same woofer

I'm at a crossroads. I just effed up the box I'd been working on for my older XXX 12 so before I start on a new box I figured I'd get some opinions. I'm redoing the system for the 2nd time. The front stage is purchased: the CDT ES-02s are here and the ES-06+s are on their way. My options for power on them are a 225 HCCA bridged on each midbass and a 225 in stereo to the mid/tweets or the Son of Frank running the whole setup. Probably go with the latter for simplicity and because the amp is awesome. The dilema is with the sub stage. Right now I have the '03 XXX 12 in D2 config, a trio of 10W6s and a quartet of Assassin 8s at my disposal. For power I have a PG MS-2…

So I am once again a free man and its time to get back to what I enjoy. I want to outline everything I will be getting and see if anyone has objections before I proceed with purchases! My main concern is the front stage and how well the mid/tweet combo ive picked out will mesh together. I will be purchasing and installing in stages so that is how I will list my ideas. So lets start where I am going to start in the build process.... STAGE 1: 100sqft of Raamaat BXT Full wiring from Knukonceptz Begin door pods for 7" Mid STAGE 2: Metra Dash kit for my car Eclipse CD 7000 STAGE 3: Seas CA18-RNX Seas 27TFFN Sound Stream PCA4.520 The mid will be mounted in the door down low in …

I'm slightly unsure as to what section to put this topic in so mods please move this if you see fit. I'm a first semester electrical student and I'm pretty familiar with the ohms law wheel and its formulas. But, for some reason I fall short when trying to calculate the total impedances of a certain car audio circuits. My question is what formulas do you guys use to figure out all of the different ohm loads that can be used w/ corresponding VC configurations. Ex. 2 Dual 2 Subs What are all of the ohm loads that can be reached. I understand that anyone can go 2 the rockford fosgate wiring wizard and find a solution. But I'm more interested in how these values are derived.

I am running all Zed Amps in my system, Gladius to the comps and 2 miniliths to the (2) 12" subs. Recently I have had some problems with the minilith amps, but a return trip to Zed should have cured that. My question is my subs "say" they have an RMS of 675 watts and are capable of 2000 watts (Eclipse SW8200's) with the 2 minilith's I was assuming that it would be enough power to push these baby's. A brief conversation with Stephen and he recommends setting up the miniliths so that each sub is powered off of it's own minilith. Thus giving each sub "330 watts" in his words. that is less than half of the RMS. I wanted to strap the amps to get around +/- 1200 watts which wo…

im finally gonna start my doors this week since the kiddies are on easter vacation. like i bought a gallon of us composites B-440 Premium Polyester Layup Resin http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html ^^^ 4th one down and like i kinda liek misplaced the catalyst. anyone like have any i can like buy? not sure if it needs to be a specific type but yea thats the one i need.

blast it all. i saw my voltage was at 11.3v with the car off and that wasnt normal. when i went to start the car, it dipped to like 7 and im like whoa crap. for some reason the car started and it was even lower at 10.3 sometimes dipping to 9.8. i was all freaked out and my dad looked it over and come to the conclusion my alt wasnt charging. hmmm maybe this is a sign i should use my 250a i have lyin around in my closet lol

i was wondering how hard it is to get sponsored... cuz i was kinda looking into it but dont really know what they are looking for...

I may have been sleeping, but I don't recall seeing them before. http://rcamobile.com/ Appears RCA has come out with a line of 12V mobile products. I'm kind of intrigued. Their other products are geared more towards the affordable end of the price spectrum and are of reasonable build quality. If these follow suit, I would expect atleast the electronics to be a decent alternative for the budget minded individual.

I currently have a set of these (RE set) I never powered them so I dont really now what they sound like as of yet....... http://www.reaudio.com/components.html But, I was thinking about 4 of the MLI-65 mids..... http://www.mach5audio.com/index-2.html The amp I'll be using is an Orion 400.4. I'm looking for some really good midbass. It's all going into a 4dr blazer. What do you guys think would be a good route to go???

looking for other monitors similar to this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16824179015 i had that one, sold it...like an idiot...basically i was gonna do a carPC, and that monitor has a 12v power supply, so it'd be easier to wire up in a car (with a dc-dc regulator im guessing?) than getting one with an AC power supply and using a power inverter (what i dont want to do, noise/interference, etc.) are there any other brands that have 12v DC power supplies, around the 15-17" range (wide screen preferably, but if not, 4:3 will have to do) heres a test fit of it in my dash, as you can see, 16:9 would look better, but i could make this one look decent...

If I wanted to divide my rectangular port right down the center for some extra bracing, will my port length have to stay the same or does it change since I technically have 2 seperate ports now???

If anyone decides to go with FI - Your choosing to have the BEST. just my2cents Then again there havn't been to many top stereo's to listen to music on at SBN in the last 10 years. Some but not alot. FI showed up with the QUAD all day and I, an oldskooler who thought SPL had killed our sport, have witnessed the second coming. I was very excited to say the least at the best Daytona SBN's in over 10 years thanks to everyone reppin FI. You made the difference. It woulda been the same old thing - we find that one truck hear it walk around until we're back at the same truck. FI brought back the old days where you actually have something to do all day besides charge bat…

Price? Availability? Pros and cons?

I plan on purchasing these soon but need to get a decent amp can somebody recommend me one?

im adding a second yellow top under the hood. since i have the yellow tops with the side terminals as well as the top i would be able to utilize those as well. so i planned on going from battery to battery using 0ga using the side terminals. then i was going to use the top of the one batt to go 0ga to the alt and 0ga to the body. this was one going to be charged while the other is discharged. the second batt is going to have 0 and 4ga running to the amps, and 0ga to the ground. does this diagram look correct? as in are all of the wires going to the right places? btw, im doing the big 3, thats why the engine is on there.

going to be doing an install in the gf's 05 grand am and she wants to go pretty big. 2000-4000 watts for the subs and a 500> on the highs. i know the stock 105 amp alt isnt going to be good enough for all this. what are some of the things i need to look for when shoping around. any help would be a great help as i hope to start piecing stuff together soon.....

I hear about amp hours and cold cranking amps...and deep cycle... What numbers do you want higher and which numbers do you want lower?

This is just to give a heads up to everyone that SSA and Audio Junkies are teaming up for Spring Break Nationals. Audio Junkies will be covering the event for SSA.

Would it be better to have four optima yellow top batteries or two Kinetik 2400s. I have read about optima group 31 batteries, is that just a yellow top or a specific optima? Thanks, Lee

Here is the planned system. 1995 s-10 blazer is the ride. High output alt (200-300 amp output). Yellow top optima up front. Two, for now, Kinetik khc2400 batteries in back. Four MA Audio hk802sx amplifiers. Two channel high current amps rated at 4400 watts RMS x1 @1ohm. We are guessing with full power behind them they will put out about 3500 watts each. Four FI Audio BL 15s. My question is this. Should a guy run two or four runs of 0 gauge wire to the back? Please explain why you say which one. I think two will work as the two of them can transfer around 600 amps through thier 13-14 foot lengths and that is about all that is available from the alt and battery…

I've done it to a few of my loud boxes lol so I was just checking if anyone else used it and knocking on the box with head in it to verify you're an addict?