General Audio

My insurance is covering my truck and a tiny bit extra, so with the next vehicle, since I know it'll kill me if I don't ask, which is more audio friendly? (since the price differences on them locally are pretty much negligible, they all fall around $2500-3k) Jeep Grand Cherokee (1995-2003) Explorer Sport (1995-2003) or even another Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada (1996-2004) I'm only really picky about having 4x4; everything else, kinda blurs together to me. *The trucks i'm comparing are the ones that were left on the list after accounting for mechanical issues being taken care of; so no, I got my priorities in order

Im going to build a system for my bike and i dont know what box dimensions i need i will be using 2 8's and 2 6x9's and a small 400 rms amp the box i was thinking of was with the 2 8's each one on each side and the 6x9's on top of the box ... something like this but with 6x9's

I am looking at purchasing a set of high quality headphones without breaking the bank. I will be using them daily, directly connected to my iPhone 5. I want a set to have good tonal balance and smooth response. Requirements: 1. Tonally correct 2. Closed back to aid with outside noise rejection 3. Low impedance to help get a high output level 4. Smooth frequency response The German Maestro GMP 8.35 D looks like a good set at $250. Thoughts?

Hey guys I have a 96 Cherokee Sport, I also have a Warden motor laying around that I want to build into a musical daily ground pounder. Im thinking ill just go with and OEM IA recone and I have an saz3000 to power it. Im just wondering if people have other single woofer set ups like this in Jeeps? What size are you using? Im leaning towards single 15" Any pics or vids out there or advice would be great! Thanks

looking to pick up a voltage meter. but I am unsure of what to use. I thought about the stinger volt meters, but are they any good? probably beating a dead horse, BUT I did search and found threads from 2008, 2012. Just wondering if theres any voltage meters new on the market that are in yalls opinion a great meter. Just need to monitor my voltage. any help would be great. Brandon

I am not at all satisfied with my current mids and highs, they are just loud enough to be heard over the BTL, but they sound horribly stressed and weak in comparison. I wanted to put a pair of 8's in my front doors, and some new tweeters up on the pillar or the dash; before I look into getting pods made for my doors, has anyone had any luck fitting 8's in the doors of a Blazer/Bravada/Jimmy ? i'd like to keep it simple, at least til it's warmer out.

i got a hdc4 18. basically brand new. i traded my box my buddy built for me. dude said it had a blown coil on it. and when we tested it out was perfectly fine. so i got a steal. i drive a Ford Taurus and the trunk space for a 18 would be my the whole trunk. i just want some opinions on if you guys would sell it. trade it or recone it to a 15.

By buddy keeps saying that before aq sold there name the sub was 1100. I never have heard of this. And he swears they was. So if this is true how much would my 18 be then?

Today on the ride home from work I was streaming Pandora through my head unit with my Galaxy S4 via aux jack when all speakers but the front left and subs quit playing. I tried music stored on my phone and everything went back to normal. 1st thought was an app issue with Pandora, so I tried Slacker and got the same results. Back to the stored music.... fine again. I then tried streaming both apps through Bluetooth and everything played fine. Wtf could cause this??? If it was a problem within the phone or aux cable, shouldn't the stored music do the same?

I have a question for you all. I found a guy that used to own a car audio shop back in the day. He's got the whole Hifonics VII and VII series. I'm interested in a series VII Zeus. It's hard to find people that will ship to military personnel overseas and he's willing to do this. He wants $700. It's new in box. I remember when I paid $1/watt. Does this still apply for a classic amp that's 20yrs old? I'm not trying to rip this guy off or low ball him but I was thinking $500 - $600 max! Am I being cheap? All inputs are appreciated.

I see a few people round here using their Components. What about there subs? I got a qoute for there HD and HDD line... Just wondering what you all thought of them...as a company and performance. Anyone running their subs? Ther look like everyone elses(Sundown, Fi, Etc)

Recently acquired an e36 m3 coupe. During the hunt for the car, I was also able to purchase a pair of Jehnert door panels with space for 4 6.5 mids. I've hand picked a couple items I had laying around in the garage for this build So far I've got Kenwood DNX9980HD Audison Bit.1 Zed Dreadnought, Zed Leviathan iii, & JL 1200/1 2 SSA Gcon 15's which I'll be trying out IB or possibly 3 JBL mkii 10's. JBL 2426H horns(Found these on craigslist for 100..steal of the century) ID full horn bodies Now, for the front stage, I have 2 options. 1. 4 18sound 6ND430's(4 ohm). 2. 3 18sound 6ND430's(4 ohm) & A pair of Audax PR170M0's for midrange duties. Which …

So I've bought several CDs over the past 18 months or so and can't figure out what the damn problem is. I have a 5 or so year old Sony CD player that I use until I get my stereo install done, and it won't play almost any of my newer purchases. It acts like the laser can't properly pick up the tracks. It spends about 30 seconds glitching out making odd noises while the laser tries to lock onto the track, then errors out. Normally I'd tack it up to the tracking mechanism or laser pickup going out, but I can toss any one of my older CDs in and it works just fine. It's only the newer CDs that it has problems with. Sometimes if I mess with it for 10-15 minutes either by…

Does anyone know if the volume and port length calculator work pretty accurate on the 12 volt website?

I know that a lot of people don't like them here .. why is that lol I thought Dave was part of RE back in their glory days

I have an MB quart 4.80 running 6.5" 3 way infinity kappas in the front and infinity kappas 3 way 6x9s in the rear. Each has a 2 ohm nominal on each channel of the amp. If I bought some crescendo super tweets would I be able to wire them and still make a difference to my front stage? I am planning on upgrading my 4 channel in the future to a Hertz or quality 4 channel after I get my alternator this winter. Should I just wait until I upgrade my 4 channel and just buy a component set?

im looking for a crimper like this one but id rather not have to hit it with a hammer. does anyone know where to buy an impact gun driven crimper for 30 bucks or under? i found some 250.00 ones from snap on but thats it. http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/Tech%20Photos/crimper.jpg

Who among you can build THE best sounding car audio system that is NOT connected to your vehicle’s charging system? How well can you build a stand-alone electrical source that will properly power your audio system? And, yes, it can and it has been done! Please visit *removed*, scroll down to TAKE THE BATCAP CHALLENGE toward the lower right hand portion of the page and click on it. This will explain the challenge in more details. Please e-mail any questions that you may have to *removed*.

I can't stand these prices people are asking to make a box. I think worst-case, can I pay someone to cut some MDF and I assemble the box myself? $200 for a 2.5 cube 12" box with no extra features seems pricey. The only thing I don't have is a panel saw, but otherwise I have pretty much everything else. Would it be hard to make a panel saw myself? Would lowes/home depot cut mdf for me for a reasonable fee? I have also read that they will give you a new sheet if the cuts aren't perfect. (I won't mind 1/8" off, but if they aren't straight then that is a problem) BTW I have 33x38x19 to work with and I want to tune to 28hz. Possibly aero port to save some room if nec…

Heya guys, I'm starting a somewhat crazy build. I've run several sims and I just cannot viably fit a large slot ported box in the car. So.... I'm looking at .75 mdf double baffled top 21" x 24.5" x 20.75" giving 4.8 gross cubes. I'm bracing the box with rod iron. I was looking a putting 2x 4" ports and tuning the box to around 32hz, with a single zv4 18 on a crescendo bd2000. My question is do you guys think I should give a third 4" port and give up a tad of airspace? 3x 4" 16.5"long ports should give a tuning of ~34 hz. I could also go with a single 6" port, but I don't have the room in the car or box to put two 6" ports There is very little more room in the car afte…

I use Stefan's port area calc to figure out the needed port area for a design. It's not working for some reason. I was wondering if the website moved or if there's anything else similar to it. Also if you see this Stefan, what's going on? lol I like your website. Here's the link...bitpusher.in/

Hey guys. I have a fair amount of experience with installs in my car, but it was only me driving it. I am getting ready to put a system in my Explorer, but space is more of an issue than it has been before. Questions I have: 1. Without sacrificing any storage space, where is a good place for the amp(s) and a subwoofer? What is the best way to approach this? 2. How do I find out what size speakers I can put in the doors? The depth of the speakers as well.

Post em here! Sweet deal from Crescendo!!!!

Sorry if this isn't the right topic to put this into but.. On YouTube I see some demos to where the song starts regular then starts to slow down into an edited slowed down version of the song. I have audacity and know how to edit and slow and blah blah but is there an option on audacity to do this or is there another program you could recommend me, perferably free lol

I seem to have a lot more voltage drop to rear fuse to amp when the seats are up, rather than down. This is a trunk car. Is lack of air flow making the sub work harder? I have the rear 6x9 vacant..