General Audio

k heres the deal, im ordering the dayton 1000w plate amp off partsexpress.com, and i dont know what sub to run it with...its for rap music only, some people have told me to get the dayton titanic mkIII of partsexpress.com, but im just wondering if there is any other subs out there for around that price range(196+shipping) that will be louder, or better SQ or w/e...my budget on the sub is 200(give or take a few for shipping) so really about 250 MAX...but still throw out suggestions reguardless... if i can get 2 subs for that price, ill do that, if not, 1 15" i would suppose...anything that can handle 1000w rms for long periods of time(not hours but sometimes ill listen to …

I'm in the market for a new ride. Wanting to spend $20K or less. It must be 4 or 6 cyl. (not 8 because of high gas prices). I prefer Honda, Nissan, Toyota & Hyundai. I have (2) JL W7 12s powered by (2) JL 1000/1s. I currently own a 4-door Accord & have the (2) 12s firing towards the rear. The bass is nice, but my truck rattles BAD. VERY annoying. I've tried firing woofers forward in this car & was not as impressed with their performance as I was with them firing towards the rear. I need your opinions. Should I go with an SUV & fire them towards the rear? If so, what's an appropriate-sized SUV for the 3 cu ft. box required for the 12s? And how much space sh…

i just recieved a reply to the email i sent JR about the rediculous prices: that should answer yalls questions

ok so i talked to my friend and hes getting around 13.5 volts to everything in his car. i thought i was only getting about 14, but when i checked it with my DMM im getting something steady between 17.2 and 18.6 is this overkill or is that good?

I need to drill some holes in my doors to run some fat ass wire through. I did a visual earlier but I can't tell if I can I remove the fenders without removing the front. Can I?

I know a few of you are anti-RF, but I love the old stuff and always will. Below is a killer SQ RF set up I would love to have in my explorer. Found it on the RF forum. equipment list: 2x Rockford 0.5farad Capacitors 1x Rockford 160.2 (With 100z2 internals) 1x Rockford Punch 100z2 (With 160.2 internals) 1x Rockford Punch 600a4 1x Rockford Punch 800a2 1x Rockford Punch Power 50m 1x Rockford Symmetry EPX 5x Rockford Audiophile Tweeters (2 Pictured) 2x Rockford Punch 3" Midrange (SP-34) 2x Rockford Audiophile 4" Midrange (RFA-44) 4x Rockford Audiophile 5" Midrange (RFA-54) 2x Rockford Audiophile 6" Midrange (RFA-64) 2x Rockford Audiophile 10" Subwoofers (RFA-810)

2004 chevy silverado xcab clarion dxz955mc source unit (installed) kicker kx 2500.1 kicker kx 4 channel, undetermined yet kicker ss 6.5 componets (to replace the memphis sq) kicker rmb or ss 8 (will either go where the factory 4x6's are or in custom door pods) kicker 8L7's x 4 under the backseat, hopefully ported. if i have to go sealed, then i might try to squeeze 4 10L7's. whatcha think? changes, idea's? will probably throw a blue top back there, and change all the wiring out for kicker as well. dunno yet. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

anyone know any sites that sell h/o alts for hondas cause i really need one cause the one i have now is 75amps and it just aint cuttin it anymore....any help would be great cause i did some searchin and didnt really come up with anything.

I don't know the full story on Memphis. But I'm very, very curious as to how PowerBass stacks up to them now, and how they will stack up in the future. Memphis seems to me to be a bread-and-butter brand that many small independent shops can push without any concern that the stuff will pop up on the internet or in a big-box store. We've been selling PowerBass (AutoSound and Xtreme) for about 2 years now. We've worked really hard to emphasize the value and performance of their subs, coaxials, components, and now autosound amplifiers vs. other brands. I've told customers of the PowerBass Xtreme competitors and their history of building equipment for other brands such as M…

For those of you familiar with bass box pro and/or winisd, help me out here. The box is 2 cuft tuned to 30hz (12" rlp), 4" precision port When I do this calculation (Lv=((8466.4*r^2)/(Vb*Fb^2))-(1.463*r) I get a number like 15.89". Winisd gives 16.28" with end correction being .614 (is that right for 2 flared ends?) And Bass box Pro gives a length of 17.35". Which of these is correct? Or is there some other part if it I am missing? It seems as though they should all be the same length if my numbers are identical, but they obviously are not. Also, a precision port ordered from PE is 17" in length with adding the flares and not cutting anything, correct? Thanks

Because of the price of the two local audio shops to get a true custom enclosure built, everyone any anyone is getting cookie cutter boxes from them. IE, preprogramed into their saw for their vehicle, or, even cheaper, basically prefab w/o the actualy fabrication. Better than prefab but unless the T/S params lend themselves to the given volume/tuning and the box is tuned to the owners ears, they end up unsatisfied. I've already done a few boxes for people around school and they have been extremely satisfied. I recive complements almost daily on "so and so's" box. But these where mostly close friends and i charged very little. My question is, how much should i charge to ma…

I live up north in michigan, in a town called TRAVERSE CITY michigan. And i wana buy 2 SI MAG 15"s and put 2 US Amps in 1 or 2 for comps and 1 for the subs. And i wana install 2 sets of Orion P's and my incar computer. Now this is a week long project i suspect, and non of its here yet so im planning this now. Im sure the shops here cant handle computers ( i can ) making them fit in the car and all that yes, making it look nice no. I can handle bills and supporting some one for a week or as long as it takes. But i know nothing about stereos and the wirign and all that, so i plan on having all this by august then before school i wana drop it all in. This is the plan someth…

I dunno whats new on yer search cause you're like...studying or something so here's some stuff to look at. 1 2 3 4 5 That's all for now.

I installed the battery negative to ground... ...that's all I'm doing today. Maybe a couple of days from now, I might install the amp ground... ...one of these days, Ill run the power wire.

what should i do!!! 1. Finnish new sub box 2. Make some GIANT pods for my doors 3. Work on my subbass amp rack 4. Work on my Front stage amp rack 5. Kill someone. i have so many things to do its like its all clogged up in my head...

So, there is a show sunday. I have 2 atomic 10 inch ap/spl subs in street beat 1. in my sig is my score on a american bass vfl 400.1 at 1/4 gain. 1/2 gain is where clipping starts. this weekend I AM A run 2 kx2500.1's at 1 ohm each. 1 per sub. stay tuned for the crazy number. and pray for the 150. If you didn't know sb1 is 30 seconds of averaged music. alot like bass race except its divided by number of subs rather then bracketed. you can also start your song before go so its a constant 30 sec. Sunday is the day I will post the results. A) I blow somethign up B ) the number will be LOUD as hell.

ok so im running a interstate 625 right now cause my yellowtop crapped out on me for the second time and wont be available for another month cause i think the ones for the honda/acura had a defect with the cells...anways is there anyother batteries that i could get that would be better then that intersate that i have now??.....the space i have to work with for now is 9in length and 5in wide.....or maybe i should just see about that 130amp alternator that i was looking at instead of the 70amp one i have now...hmmmm??

as the topic states, i have the two subs in a glassed enclosure atm, but my mom threw away my boxes. so i lost the spec sheets. does anyone have the manual that came with the sub, im pretty sure they are all listed in there. thanks

Well I was searching everywhere for an amp the would give me over 800x1 RMS for my HT woofer project. I really wanted an amp with a passive cooling solution, but the ones available with the kind of power I wanted were out of my budget. My solution is in the form of a Carver PM-900 amp. It is a live sound amp by design, but I hope to tweak it into a quiet HT amp for my passive sub. I went with Carver because the amp in my car that powers my components is a Carver made in '87 and it sounds very very nice. If something that old can work so well..... then you have a customer for life..... even though Carver is closing down Here are some pics...... Teh GiZuts. EWWW a fan!! …

Well, I picked one of the $100 ones up for a cheap alternative for some subbass. First impressions: The build quality is extraodrinary. Everything is aligned perfectly. There is not a hint of excessive glue used which is commonplace on a lot of subs today available from certain buildhouses. The finish on the driver is superb. The basket seems to be a little weak for the motor structure, but hey, it was a lot of "leftover parts" assembled very well into a quite impressive looking driver. IT came with a four-piece, self-adhesive foam surround for rear sealing, with a very attractive front rubber piece that just seems to flow into, or out from the surround. I wish ot…

Ok, next year I'll be in the dorms again, but w/ my cousin as a roommate who is also a audio nut. I came up with an idea of making something along the lines of a "Stage" to put the TV and other crap on, ending up probably around 10-15 cubes of airspace? And having a couple 15's tuned to around 18hz or something along those lines for a sub setup for movies. My mains would be two towers with atleast 2 Extremis, or AA mids per tower with a Usher (can't remember numer, 9950???) tweet. The subs will be powered with a Behring EP2500amp, the mains with one ART SLA-1 amp (possibly 2) or a ART SLA-2. Any ideas if this has ever been done before?? If it has, pics? Why? Becaus…

do parts express own this or do they have there own web page

Well, i've been working on getting the demo atleast to useable condition. I got everything in now in a setup that i'll probably stay with and now just need to tidy things up. So here's my setup HU- Eclipse 8454, awesome HU but I think i need to send mine in as the display keeps on freezing up but o well its awesome Doors- CDT Eurosport ES-600 with the optional braxial mounting for the drt-26 tweeter Kicks-CDT High Definition HD-5's Subwoofer-Stereo Integrity Mag 15 in a sealed 2.45cu ft box Amps- -Monitor 1 MK2.70 running to the ES-600 playing 80-400hz -Monitor 1 MK2.70 running to the HD-5 and drt-26 using the satnet 480 crossover -Concept CC-D1200 running the SI Mag 1…

I have a powerbass xs15d2 and I've been hearing a rattle. So I inspect the sub and the basket is loose from the upper plate. This would be a defect not user error correct? Also the sub still plays fine and don't rattle while playing music parked but only rattles when I hit a bump or dip in the road. Should I use it till it get replaced? Any suggestion are appreciated.

What's a good Spectrum Analyzer to start with??? Something cheap to start with (to adjust that EQ I'm getting soon).