General Audio

I need some pricing info on their ARC and Flatline series of drivers, but I have no dealer near me. I called one close (1.5hrs away), but they won't give me any prices over the phone.

Powerbass has worked for the last eleven months developing a complete new line for 2006. You will see all new tooling that will not be copied by any other companies. We are vertically integrated with our factory and have a full staff of our own acoustical and electrical engineers to assist in the continued growth of Powerbass in the industry. Our factory will soon be building electronics as well as speakers. Look for the new ASA line of amplifiers with an unbeatable price and performance. Our XA serries will remain in the line until june , when the new tooling is complete. The series will then become XTA. This series will still offer the same awesome power in a sleek new …

Good afternoon all. I want to take a minute and let everyone know that I will be assisting you with Powerbass questions/problems. By now most of you are aware of the changes with Johnny no longer being with us, My name is Ron and I am the Eastern Regional Manager. I am also a former 12volt/ fabrication specialist. It might take me a few days to get back to some of you but this is only due to my extremely busy schedule. I am glad to be a part of the forum and look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Ron@ Powerbass

im thinkin about buying a newer model hatchback..any suggestions on them..what ones look good and are a decent price?

Monster surge protector Is this worth the price or would i be overpaying for a overkill surge protector? What do you guys think?

damn----I am having a great week-----first my son is born and now these!!! ROCK ON!!!!

Just finished putting together my DIY home subwoofer. I used a Soundsplinter RL-p15 DVC2 and an Oaudio Bash 500 watt amp...... the box is 4.6 cf gross, 3.2 cf after port/bracing/speaker deductions. The box is made of 1.25" mdf and oak vaneered. The port is 2.25" x 16" and 43" long tuned at ~24hz. Mike at Soundsplinter and Todd at Oaudio are two of the greatest people and are willing to help in anyway possible. Also, I can't say enough good about their products!!! I tested the sub on Pearl Harbor and the Japanese attack scene almost brought down the walls..................

Ok here's who I have signed up so far and how many they want. ThePass-2, 6.5s timshalshroy-2, 6.5s azngotskills-2,6.5s hayden lake(SSA)-4,6.5s Me-2 or 4, 6.5s. So we're up to 14 or 16, i need minimum of 20 drivers. I would like 6 more drivers to be sold. Also for the guys on the list, payments due by the 18th. This should allow for all those mid month paydays. Also PM or email me at [email protected] to confirm and where to send payment. Also sorry the price of the 6.5 has changed to 32$ instead of 31$ due to paypal.

please assist in removing cds w/o damaging them or the player. This is a single cd player. Thanks,bph

Ok, 1st question. Ive heard of making cement lined enclosures where you basically build and enclsorue inside and enclosure, but what about cement enclosrues where the outer enclsoure is ment to be removed and the cement finsihed off liek they finish off cement counter tops? Its reletively cheap to finish cement counter tops, you can make them smooth like glass or retain the cement feel. I dont have any plans to do such a thing but im just wondering if anybody has though about doing this or has already dont this. 1 1/2 80lb bags would probbaly be what yo uwould need for a moderately sized enclsorue plus reed bar and that wire stuff...so all in all your moderately sized enc…

Basically, I'm trying to think of the most cost-effective way to build a shelf that's rock-solid steady for my turntable. I've been floating a lot of ideas around in my head, from "floating" a piece of MDF in a little sandbox-type thing, to several layers of MDF on soft rubber pads, to wacky ones like a suspended magnetic table (most likely not even possible). So...I'm trying to brainstorm, need ideas for a table that's immune to vibration and help to deaden the internal vibration from the unit itself.

I am currently looking at 2 15' SXs $580 both (with shipping) or 2 18 SXs $640 both (with shipping) or a 18' MT $525(with shipping) from the RE side... www.reaudio.com or A 15' Mag www.stereointegrity.com $549 MSRP or A 15' DP www.incriminatoraudio.com $599 or A RL-s 15' S4 www.soundsplinter.com $579 Also I am not sure about these 2 because they are like +$1000... for 1 and I don't know... A DD 9917 from www.ddaudio.com or A APXX18D or APXX15D www.atomicspeakers.com Also looking at AMP(s) I was thinking of the DD Z1 (but i don't know where to find info of it on the web) or the VFL 200.1 (also don't know where to find info of this on the web...) or maybe 2 Orion 2500Ds Thi…

From time to time I come across old drivers. A lot of which are so old, finding listed t/s parameters is impossible. So I have started the search for a way to test for t/s parameters myself. Which lead me to parts express and the woofer tester 2. Anybody had any experience with this thing ? How accurate are the measurements it provides ? Is there any other cheaper more accurate way to test t/s parameters ? Any help would be much appreciated. here's a link to the woofer tester 2. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=390-802

So I couldn't bear the way my system sounded with $40 pawnshop speakers from a decade ago. So I decided on a two way setup. HiVi M8A 8" mid, alum/magnesium cone, and a Vifa X25 (or 35) tweet I don't remember. Under 200 for all of em. 2cuft each tuned to 26hz Baffle step defraction design (the tweet moves that way it can be the same distance from the listening position as the center of the mid driver. At first I thought this idea was just hifi bullchit but if you close your eyes while listening and someone else moves the tweets around you can really hear it. the best distance I've found is about 4" back from the front baffle. The tweeter mounts are not finished, I'm tryi…

Hello again. I'm thinking of getting a single 4 channel amp to power my front stage plus one sub. The amps I'm considering are the Diamond Audio D6600.4, or the Arc Audio 4150XXK. Fronts would be getting on average 75 to 80 watts rms per side and the sub 300+ watts @ 4ohms. My question is; are there any disadvantage or issues when going with a setup like this...one amp for the entire system? I really like the idea of a simple install, but, I'm more concerned with drawing too much power from my car's electrical system and I want to avoid that. I'm afraid that by adding a sub amp to my current D7 amp it would force me to add additional items such as caps, yellow tops an…

Ok well i extended the end date to the middle of Feb. All orders must be in by Feb 15th. I have so far 8 drivers of the 6.5s. Here's the info i posted earlier: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok well here's the thread. Its for Tang Band 6.5 and 8in subwoofers. Must have a total minimum of 20 or more of any driver sold in the group buy. if 20 or more aren't bought, these prices will not apply but i can still get you them. Sorry the 5.25s are out of stock until April or so. If interested in plate amps please PM me and we will see about pricing on it. 100% of the order can either be paid at time of signing up or by the 15th of…

http://www.simpac.com Eh, I don't know what to think. Hype? Sure. Reality? Possible.

If god permits, next year i'll be in pharmacy school living with and leeching off my aunt/uncle. I hope to put a HT setup in and will use the subs i already have (for a start). My question is which should i use. I have the two 15" atlases and the 1 15" avalanche. I'm not sure how much different HT is from car audio, so i'll put my speculations and you all can feel free to correct me. two atlases will have more than enough output i'm sure. But won't get as low as the Avalanche. The avalanche will get low, but not as much output. Also I imagine an amp for the atlases would be easier to come by. (300W @ 4ohm vs 800W @ 4ohm) So my question is for HT is lows needed mo…

Basically im not a Co Ax expert. I need one with clean highs, low end extension i dont really care abotu and try to keep it around $75 if yo ucan. i THINK i need 6x8's. as efficent as possible. They are for my GF's moms explorer, doing Co Ax's and a little ported 10. i want drop ins so i have as little fabrication as possible.

Well I have'nt posted this because I've been without the internet for the past month so here is what I've been up too. Ok now this is the equipment that I installed... (1) Alpine CDA-9855--Head Unit (1) Orion 1200D--Sub Amp (1) Audiobahn A4004T--Component Amp (pair) Alpine Type R Component Speakers--Front Stage (2) Rl-p Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofers--Sub stage (15 feet) of Tsunami 1/0 Power wire (3 Feet) Tsunami Ground Wire (1) Tsunami Digital ANL Fuse Holder w/ 250 Amp Fuse (1) Tsunami Digital ANL Distrobution Block w/ 100 amp and 80 amp fuses (1) Tsunami Ground Distrobution Block (Set) of Tsunami Digital Battery Terminals (1) Optima Yellow Top Battery and a custom built by me,…

I did some research and here's what i'm thinking of putting in my grand prix. Headunit - Pioneer DEH-P7700MP 6x9's - Pioneer 5-way TS-A6991R 460w (80rms) or TS-D901P 350w rev series (60rms) 6 1/2's - Pioneer TS-D161R 260w (60rms) Subs - 2x P312D4 1000w (500w rms) was thinking T2's but that's overkill Amp for my high's - P4004 100w x4 (gets more but don't need it) Amp for my subs - P8002 (should net me 500w rms to each sub) Anything you'd change? Reasoning? Box suggestions? Edit: upon further research a P2002 should net me near 60w per speaker instead of using a 4 channel P4004

someone has offered webspace, now we need some people to help retrieve/send, and input the info i think it would be cool if a group of us puts together a database of audio equipment with pix and specs and share it with everyone else. freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee i dunno if this has been tried before, but i think it might be a fun little project happy?

Sorry, try the thread again without a link and reference to CarAudio.com. Soundsolutionsaudio.com and TeamSSAudio.com are not affiliated with CarAudio.com and will never be. Therefore, all links and information regarding the site are to be kept off of here.

Hi, iv'e seen something very strange for the first time. Iv'e installed by sound from old car to new. A 2000w sub on a 2500w amp. 1 x hi to low convertor and speakers still run of factory radio. Amp mounted on rear seat. When the volume is all the way up and the trunk is open every thing seems fine. But when the trunk is closed and the volume turned softer until 0, the sub keeps on pounding, very loudly. But if the 1500w amp is tested, everything is normal. Could this be because of the hi to low convertor or because the speakers are still running on factory radio?