General Audio

i wanted to build a box just like this one for 2 18" fi btl's this box in the pic is for the mtx 12"s i have now im putting it in a dodge caravan so i have pretty much a crap load of space i just wanted to know if any one has any ideas on dimensions that i would need to get it tuned to 31-33hz http://img397.imageshack.us/my.php?image=g...tachmentpd2.jpg

im very new to car audio. my problem lies with when my volume of the HU is all the way to zero and i go to my subs there is a faint noise its hard to explain well it's kinda like a hum or a buzz but very quite i tried the ground loop fix by grounding my rca's to the HU and that helped a bit since the noise was louder before and that got rid of it then i found a better bolt for my amp ground so it was more secure and that did not help. so idk what could be the problem. my setup with the problem HU: pioner DEH x3500ui subwoofer: one kenwood kfc w3013ps other sub is unknown i was told from the seller it was an older kenwood but im thinking it is a home thearter subwoofer. …

So I've been listening for leaks in my new sealed box and browsing through stuff that I haven't heard in a while. A song that I've heard countless times before, Dread Rock (Paul Oakenfold, Matrix soundtrack) literally made me jump out of my seat when it hit a certain note that I've never heard before. I've had a small sealed enclosure with my single RL-i8, but it never hit sounds like this. I guess it really proves that it's all about the box... although I'm sure adding another RL-i8 (and lowering the impedance to 4ohms in the process) didn't hurt. Obviously, there are SPL setups that make the listener almost lose control of their bodily functions. I'm more interested…

A really nice kid that comes to my town once in a while to check out my van build has a school dance coming up and wants to borrow one of my EP4000s to run off his old receiver that has no crossover. He's running a car audio sub, I think it's a 15" Shocker Sig I'll make sure tomorrow, probably in a car audio box built to spec, going to guess 4-6 cubes tuned around 33Hz...I'll verify that as well. I trust the guy and he's really cool, but I don't ever move my amps...I dont ever fiddle with them...I dont want anything happening to them. My girlfriend, her son, and I use the stereo round the clock. I'd really like to come up with a VERY cheap alternative if possible and try …

Okay. The box is 4 cubes @ 31-32 Hz for an Fi Q15. The box is strangely shaped because a spare tire is going to be standing up vertically behind the box to the right of the port. This was my plan. I was going to add 2 more vertical 2x4's to the right and left of the sub hole. The baffle, port, and vertical brace are NOT permanent yet. They haven't been attached yet. That's what's permanent. I was told the back wave is going to be fed directly into the port and that usually doesn't work well. Should I change my port? Anything else?

I am planning on buying HC1800 and 5 HC600s soon. I want to use Knukonceptz Konfused battery terminals on these batteries but it appears that Kinetik's battery posts are for ring terminals only. So... while i was surfing, i found this- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8425_K...P+-KHC-TP-.html So, if i buy those, all i have to do is unscrew the ones off of the batts, put these on and that's it, right?

Basically just want to have an idea of how loud should I be able to get with this setup. 1 Fi BTL 18 Fully-equipped @ 1ohm 1 Sundown 3500D @ 1ohm Big 3 1 XS D3100 battery (under the hood, main one) Alpine 9887 HU Maybe 225amp alternator Zero gauge everywhere. Enclosure around 5-7 cubic ft tuned to 30Hz

Looking for an alarm for under $400 bucks w/ all the bells and whistles. Window locks, radio valet, temp sensor; pretty much the works. Any suggestions on what I should buy?

My friend has a 2002 or 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse I was hooking up the pre-out for the amp and I couldn

I was fooling around with the torres box calc. and was wondering what port area range was and what volume is the one to use gross or net. and if there's a way to post pics of it to see what you guys think?

I can't believe i am making this thread but there is something not right and evidently i have forgotten. I had this problem before but it was like 4yrs ago and i cant remember what i did. Ok here it goes- I have a sundown 100.4 I am playing a 600hz tone. I hooked up a speaker to chan 4 only to make sure it would output power, it does fine, i even played some music on it so i know the amp works fine. Now, i connect the probe from the oscope to the positive terminal of chan 4 and the ground clamp of the oscope to the negative of chan 4. When i connect just the positive, i get this crazy wave form. When i connect the ground clamp, ... nothing changes. If i connect the groun…

i posted this before, but the place that was suggested to me, Inovative Rides, is closed down. i have a saz 1500 and 2 12 fi ssd, and am lookin for a good shop to install them in the houston area. thanx in advance for any help

I am doing an engine conversion, and the altenator on the engine is rated at 50 amps. I am looking into a 100-150 amp altenator, yellow or red top, and the big 3. I am running 1000wrms.

Hi, I drive a 2007 Ford Fusion and I am having some trouble finding a better alternator, could anyone give me a few places I could look that might have one for me? I plan on running a 18" Fi BTL with Kicker ZX2500.1 and maybe 2 batts. Also about what size alternator should I be looking at? Thanks for any input

When making a box can the whole backside of the box be made of plexi i really like when you open the trunk and see the magnet..

Hey guys, i need help and some kind of solution in securing my box in the trunk. its a premade JL audio box called a powerwedge, so the box is shaped...like a wedge in the back! The problem is the design of my trunk, since it has "bumps" on the sides, making it so the box wont fit directly straight in. Think of the box sitting on a slight decline, like a car going down a steep hill. The problem with this is that the box has already fallen over frontwards because a lot of the weight is sitting right in the front, and i dont want to damage the subwoofers (2 12" FI Q). I've already propped the front part of the box with 8 mini carpets, but i'm afraid that will only work as a…

I love when you have somebody pull up next to you with a "wally world" system and you completely drown them out. Here in Memphis,TN there seems to be so many weak systems that it is almost fun just to cruise around. Though there are the select few that are sounding great !!!

i know its a long shot but im gonna ask anyways, is there anybody on here in socal that has a termlab. i'd be willing to bring you out some beers or pay you for your time. let me know, thanks!!

so im back, still trying to understand this whole audio thing lol. havnt had much time to look into it but i had an ohm question i thought i might be able to get a easy to understand answer of... basicly from what ive been reading and such, unless im mistaken which is why im asking here, a 1 ohm amp goes to a 2 ohm sub and a 2 ohm amp will go to a 4 ohm sub? and is there some sort of converter that allows you to go 1 ohm to converter to a 4 ohm sub? or have i just confused everyone and should keep reading lol?

I have a 1985 chevy el camino. I am contemplating on what to put in it for subs. the measurements I have for room are 20 wide x 10 high x 18 roughly deep and I can put one of these boxes on each side of the tranny hump. So i am stuck between a 8"and 10" sub for each side. I really liked my uncles 12w7 in a 2.25cube box tuned to 32 with a jl1000. I have a Rockford Fosgate t10001bd amp. I have put a 140 amp altenator in my car my stock one was 58amps. So my amp power should be good. What is a good pair of 8s or 10s that will fit in the space that I have ported that will hit like my uncles 12w7.

Ok so I understand what an RTA is and all that jazz. I googled for an RTA program to purchase and came up with a lot of sites that sell programs. My question is, what's some good programs you guys have used/had experience with that you could recommend me. Or are they pretty much all the same with few minor tweaks here and there.

my friend wants me to build him a box for 2 12" rf p1's. right now hes using a pre fab box that is complete garbage. its for his dodge daytona, which is a hatchback, any tips on what size sounds good, or what airspace sounds good for a ported box, or if sealed sounds better with those, because i have no idea. thank you very much

Ok so here we go i have a 2006 honda pilot, im going to sponser myself from cricket wireless and its basically going to be like a show/advertisment car.. i have not yet started on anything in the car.. alothough i do have 2 sets of cerwin vega vmax 65cs running off of a mb quart 80.4.. my deck is the alpine cda-117.. so yeah but all that will be upgraded when the time comes.. my list 1 pioneer avic-z110bt ofcourse the usb ipod adapter 1 xs power d3400 (front battery) 4 xs power d3100 (in back) 1 irragi 300 amp alternator (added to the 120 stock) 5 sets of aqg6.5 (2 sets in front doors, 1 set rear doors, 1 set in the back, 1 set in the middles) talk about over kill hehe 2…

I currently have a 12" FI BL in my car with a US Amps MD1D. I am looking at maybe putting another one in and I have a few questions. How big should the box be? FI recomends 2.5 cu. for one so when you have 2 do you double that? I have a dual 2 ohm so I would get another dual 2. I have a Hifonics 1206D sittin around so should I use that or buy a amp that is .5ohm stable? Like a Lazar Opti2000D. Or a big amp that can give around 2000 watts at 2 ohm. Would I need a bigger alt. current one is 120amps and I have a Kinetic 1400 batt. in the front and am going to look into getting a smaller batt. for the trunk.