General Audio

first off i REALLY hate to be "that guy" that posts these, "help me build my sytem" threads. however i guess i just have to break down and do it. so. basically heres my deal. current setup is this 4 diamond audio d1 tens, downfire, sealed with a cube per sub diamond d3 1100.1 diamond d1 250.2 alpine type r 6.5 component set alpine ida-x001 head unit i hit 135.6 db on a termlab playing the wocka flocka song "no hands". i couldnt play their test tone cd cause the alpine is a media reciver and i had no way to the the cd onto my hard drive to playback. nor did i know what a sealed box should even sound best at. but thats irrelavent. im planning on this setup next, money i…

I am in a minor dispute here. I was looking to do a 150 trunk set up and I was talking about what I was looking to buy to a few friends of mine. One friend pipes up and says that "I can do 150 ease with 2 12s on 1k sealed in a 2 cube box".......BULLSHIT!!! SO....I am asking you guys who have done it before to please post if you have done it and how so?? i.e. ( what subs, amps, box size, electrical ect) So I can get a better idea of what kinda cash in going to be spending AND to prove him wrong.

walked in front of a brand new TV with a subwoofer, and had the magnetic field completely jack up the screen? purple and blue all over the bitch

just wondering.

Like high hits are fekt around mid back mainly Then lower is felt around lower back/butt Deep hits felt around thighs and legs Odd and i was wondering why

So i need to set my gain to 24.49v My multimeter is in AC volts mode and its only reading like .200v... Ugh???

Why does my jeep liberty hit its max spl of 142.7 at 50hz ? Box is tuned to 35 hertz

I'm an older guy, just turned 40 and have gone through many installs in my earlier years. I've had some good installs by shops and I've had total crap installs. Well I wouldn't say the installs were crap but the bass setup was. I would say the worst problem I have ran into with installs is the box builds were wrong for the speakers of choice. I have always bought quality subs for my installs but often the boxes were build wrong. I've even pissed of installs by telling them to rebuild the box because the bass sucked. That even happened in a Camaro once, where bass should be easy to do. I've also learned that less can mean more too. Subs need plenty of box space. S…

Hey, i stay true to my name <<<. lol, but why does a sub seem louder with a window(s) down, than when they're up? I don't know if it is on a meter, or just to the ear, but shouldn't it be that if the waves are focused into a smaller space, it'd be louder? with a window down the air goes everywhere.. just don't understand. Also, if it really is louder on a meter to have windows down, then why do the true bassheads, modified vehicles spend thousands on concreting a vehicle and making sure every crevice is sealed, when i roll down a window and it's louder. Is it just the class they're in, and the rule is windows up? Or does it actually make it louder? Just kinda wo…

I've noticed that all of the high power subs are DVC. I was just wondering why none of them are SVC.

exactly what it says. why is the term "&quot;SQL&quot;" looked down upon, so much? theres plenty of sq drivers out there that are capable of getting decently loud...

I absolutely cannot get away from it, and I was wondering what keeps everyone else coming back for more and more. For me its the undeniable feel of a subwoofer rattling your chest, and knowing you made it all happen.

I've had my subwoofer installed for just over 2 years now with no issues. Now when I start my car (No music playing) The power light on my bass knob flashes and I can hear my subwoofer slightly thumping. I've checked the ground and the power cables but can't figure out what causing it. The clipping light doesn't flash red, just the power light. I attached a video of this. You cant hear the thumping because its very low. The amp I'm using is a Sundown SAZ 1500D and I'm using the bass knob that came with that amp. This issue will happen almost every time I start my car but last week it stopped for about 4 days and now its back and even worse than it was before. Ba…

I was wondering why subwoofers use tinsel leads to carry the current to the voice coil. Wouldn't copper be better because the resistance to electricity flow is lower? What makes the tinsel leads better for that part of the sub.?

Hey guys recently i've got my new equipments which consist of US Amps/RE Audio 2x US Amps MD21 2x US Amps MD-3D 4x RE 6.5Comp Set 4x RE SX 12" Dual 4ohms As for electrical I'm planning a 250 or 300a Ohio Gen and for Batteries 1x Power Master D5100R under the hood and 2x Power Master D3100 in the back close the the amps.( the amps and batts will be at each side of the trunk) Now I was wonder which would be the best way to wired the amps and the batteries, plan A or B? plan A. first i was thinking to put each MD-3D on each Power Master D3100 and 2x 1/0 awg wire for each battery (from front to the back), and the two MD-21 hooked up to the front battery (the Power Master D5…

Hey guys, been awhile. I've been messing around with the build here and there for the last 2 years and its largely remained the same. I swapped in a mini dsp 6x8 and a new 4 channel amp for the mids and tweets. https://imgur.com/Gdu11nn Currently the build is a 3 way front stage with SLS 8's in the doors along with Tangband w4's and some peerless tweets in the kick panels. The problem is that the driver side kick panel is this strange black hole for mid to high frequencies. I've spent the last two days trouble shooting the amp and wiring to make sure its not something electrical. That all said, I think I'm going back to the A pillar full range setup (eith…

This isn't going to be a huge build just something as a stock upgrade with a little bit of kick for the old lady. I want it as simple as I can get. Probably going with a five channel amp just for the ease of the install and eyeing the sundown 1100.5 I believe 150x4 at 2 ohms for the fronts and 800x1 for the sub channel. Probably a sealed truck box. Only doing front doors and preferably 2 12's if they fit and there's enough airspace. Any ideas what will sound decent with that power? By no means will it ever compete. Just a little bump and clarity.

Hey I’m thinking bout buying 300’ of sky high 14 gauge speaker wire. Will it be good enough to use as wiring for my speakers. Up to 300 watts would be going through it. I just rather get a bunch of wires so I don’t need to keep buying if I ever run out from batches. I’ve had 12 gauge but for some speakers with push terminals it’s too big. The 14 fits fine so I’m thinking it’ll be fine. Could I get some feed back

For my 750w amp?

so within the next week or so ill be buying a manufacturer section on the forum and i need opinions and suggestions for products to offer i have speaker rings with and without tweeter mounts pre fab boxes but optimized for certain subs knockdown home theater speaker boxes and whole kits door pods and custom panel engraving what else should i offer, remember that these will all be things i can cut out of my cnc i can cut wood, plexi and engrave metal

Two weeks ago i installed 2 15"inch kicker l7's,which are runnig off a (kole audio)2400 watt amp.The box for the subs is a very small sealed box,actually its a prefab box called groundshaker lol..It gets pretty loud.Some where aroun next week im going to have a box built by a member on here by the name of (soundvibration) ..My question is these subs can handle 1000 rms and i was wondering if it would get alot louder with the RF1500 or saz1500 not sure which one but would the amp make a huge diffrence or just keep the one i have?The reason i ask is ca use alot of times people say 500 watts isnt any different to the ear,or does that not apply to me cause its a cheap amp i h…

ok, so i have my subs and i have figured out the amp to power them. now i need to figure out if the box that i have will be sufficient or if i am better off with a different design. the following is as much useful information as i can think of, but if you need anymore just ask. also haven't been able to find detailed specs on the speakers, so i don't know fo, qes, xmax or anything like that, that's why i need your help. haven't found anyone that has that info either, so hopefully you all can still throw me some input. thanks. car: 99 altima subs: pair of 12" american bass vfl1266 amp: rockford t1500 current box: sealed 34x14x14 3/4mdf music: mostly juggalo beats and nu-me…

equip. dont have yet: either a fosgate t1500 or t1000 (leaning more to the 1500) fosgate t400.4 XS D5100R Pioneer 9500bhs h/u knu 1/0 all around Have: JBL GTO's 6.5 full range speakers 1 15" SSA XCON 2000 Honda CR-V my question is: i have a stock alternator. i just found out today honda says it will put out 65A. is my alternator going to be able to support this system? if not how big of an alternator do i need to get? asuming big 3 and battery are installed. i wont be listening to it full blast all the time. this is a daily driver.

So i read that in can causes fires as to why you must use a fuse but will it do anything else? Such as fry other electrical componets in your car?

As some of you already know, i've decided to add a 3rd xcon to the 2 i already have for a setup in my civic. I've pretty much got everything i need. Just need some more wiring and misc interconnects. Amp, too. Anyway, while talking to my box builder and the guy that helps me out with installs, he told me instead of running sealed with the xcons, i should run them in an IB config. His reasoning being 1. Sealed requires more power to hit the same SPL while IB requires much less. less power to use = happy electrical. 2. I'll retain about 80% of my trunk space I've never had an IB setup, but i've heard a couple and they've sounded amazing. They were all 100% sq setups, thou…