General Audio

so, as the title says, my friend has 2 12" Memphis PR's with a 500watt RMS PR amp. in a ProBass ported box.... it is a used system. but he hardly even bumps it. so it hasnt been abused. this will be my tempoary setup untill i get money for a bigger sub and amp. i kno he paid around $100 per sub. $299 for amp. and $150ish maybe $200 for the box. soo, (in your your opinion) what would the... -average price be? -and a really good price be? thanks alot in advance. -jonathan

Hi im looking for input on what I should put in my car for a system. I have a 2009 ford focus ses 4dr with sync so I will be using an req signal restorer. Right now i have a pair of focal access 570ca1's which will be going in the back doors then most likely a set of components for the fronts. I want a system that can really hit the lows. I have been looking at several subs like rockford 12t2d2 or a jl 13 w7 but cant decide between either or if I should just go with something like a 12 fi bl. I am looking at all these subs because they all have an rms of around 1000 watts and I dont think my car will be able to keep up with much more than a 2 channel and a 1000 watt …

Will i get louder with 1 15" BTL fully loaded in a ported box on the same 3000 watt sundown amp recommended to me, or the 2 12" BLs on a 3000 watt amp in a ported box? everything is the same, the goals and everything, but i am just curious on this one....please let me know...also can anyone recommend me some nice component speakers with tweeters....i like polk audio, but idk if there is anything better please let me know thanks

Sub box and amp are gone. I'm so pucking pissed right now

Im not totally new to systems but i am fairly new to this site and ive looked at some of the forums. I have an s10 with an ex cab, and i was wanting a system that would hit hard but at the same time not sound really bad. From what i have read is that a BL is what im looking for, i was thinking 2 BL 12s in a ported box. Im not too sure on the amp or if those are the subs that i would want for sure. Some feedback would be pretty nice. its also been a while since ive hooked up a system if somebody could refresh my memory I do want about 2000 watts of power, and i dont want my lights dimming all the time like i had the problem in my car, i hear capacitors help with that but…

Spl-labs usb pro dual sensor.

If you had to pick out of these few set ups, which one would you pick? 1) Fi Q 12" No BP SAE-1000d (Best Box for this?) 2) Fi Q 12" With BP SAZ-1500d (Best Box for this?) 3) AA Havoc 12" SAZ-1500d (Best Box for this?) 4) AA Havoc 12" RF 1500-1BD (Best Box for this?) I'm saving for my first car now and just want to get a nice system put in, budget is ok lower the better obv but dont want to buy some crap. I'm looking at a Corsa 1.2 SXi Twinport for the car. I'm looking for more of a SQ set up rather than SPL, but as you know everyone still wants it loud. So there you go! All help is very much appreciated Thanks, Pez

the following parts are what i have been looking at using in my system, does anyone have any thoughts (good or bad) on the choices here. I have a few amps lying around that all have pass through (eclipse, audiobahn, alpine) so one of them will be used in this configuration for the remaining speakers. 2 JL ZR800-CW 8" midbass driver to be built in a glass enclosure in my lower doors. 2 Hertz ML700 2.75" midranges to be glassed in my extreme upper door and angled at the drivers position. possibly 2 focal or hertz tweets, i have 2 alpine R tweets now that i think work very well so ill start with them and if they work well in this setup then great but if not ill swap to a…

Have a Pioneer 4100ub and associated Ipod adapter. I have tried to plug in a brand new Iphone and a first generation Ipod and neither "worked". Tried both the included Ipod to USB cable and one that was brought with. Both switched the h/u automatically from AUX to USB/Ipod but no sound came out of the stereo. Radio/CD/and front AUX are all 100% functional. Of course all I did was connect them and have the owner of them start playing music. I don't own an Ipod and won't, but considering my boat already has the unit and will at least for the rest of the year I'd like to be able to use others. Is there some trick to using it? The h/u manual doesn't at all talk about c…

i have been on this forum and looking around at other guys cars/trucks. they all seem to get one subwoofer say a 12/15 inch woofer and on the videos they are flexing like crazy the roof of the car the trunk side windows and so on. they put a 2000-3000 watt sundown on it what im getting at why not get woofers that take less watts like 4 or 8 subwoofers that take lets say 150-200 watts rms per subwoofer and use less watts from your amp and your alternator and that should get way more output from like 1100 watts from your amp then getting a big 3500 watt monster that will pull 350 amps on one subwoofer and make your volts drop in low 11s im not trying to start a war just …

I know that subwoofers unload under tuning frequencies in vented boxes and i was wondering what makes this happen. What's the physics behind it? I tried searching for the answer and everywhere it says the same thing, subs unload under the tuning frequency. I already know that, i want to know why it happens. Thanks in advance for anyone that knows.

Today will be my first competition. Its only local but it still is exciting for me. Im mostly excited to see what numbers Im putting up as Im running my system and to see how things are operated as ive never even attended a show before. Wish me luck! Goin to rep some SSA and convert some of these main stream nut huggers

Well, today I was driving down the road with the stereo playing at my typical volume when all of a sudden all the lights on my dash (digital readouts) shut off for a split second, then come back on. At the exact same time this happens, my stereo drops in volume by a good 10-15db and gets extremely distorted. It basically sounded like my subs cut off, mids stopped playing and tweets got extremely distorted and dropped in volume. This only lasted 1 second at most, but immediately after it happened my car started having major voltage drop when the bass hit (mind you, I've never even had my lights dim with this setup). I don't have a voltmeter in my car, so I don't know …

Was wondering if anyone has delt with "THE ROBOT UNDERGROUND" aka Juicyrobot on ebay? This is my question// I have a Orion XTRPRO 2400d that 1 of the output conductors was smoked. I spoke to Chris from db-r and he told me that i had to find another board from that model to get the part i needed. So i remember that when DEI bought Orion/ppi/ads in 2003 they had a auction and "the robotunderground" bought allot of the stock parts/b-stock items. I contacted them and was told to send it in for repair and they would rewind the conductor. I sent it to them on the 13th of may and they emailed me and said they received it and the tech is looking at it. Now i have emailed …

So basically I let a friend borrow my car and while he was using it he messed up the trunk latch and when he couldn't fix it he tied an extension cord around my subwoofer and box and held the trunk down with it. When he drove it back to me he played the music all the way up and when I got it back my subwoofer wouldn't play. I figured it was the woofer being held back while trying to play but then I tried another sub on it and it still wouldn't play so I tried another sub and again it didn't play. What could it be causing my issues. What could I do to diagnose my issue. The light on the amp goes on and it looks like everything is working. any help would be awesome. Thanks.

so i was thinking about getting a ssd 15 for christmas but i didnt wanna wait that long so i started looking for a job haha. anyways i was thinking that if i get a job i could get 2 ssd 12s and a saz-1500. would that be a good set up? also i was thinking about buying one ssd 12 when i get some money and run her off my alpine mrp-m500 and then get the amp and other sub later. i heard that the alpine mrp-m500 is not good for a sub because it has a set subsonic filter at 15hz so could that amp hurt that sub?

Ive been buying alot of stuff lately for my upcoming build. Well certain things are popping out at me that Im going to need to purchase... First thing is an equalizer. what is a good EQ at a affordable price? Would love zapco, but its not in my budget right now. Also I had a PPI EQ a while back and it only had 2 inputs (1 main and 1 aux) which were switchable. my deck has 3 sets of RCA's in the back (Front, rear, sub) .. how is this done? Do i only use 1 set going into the EQ and EQ out to my sub and high's amp's? Which set of RCA's off the back of the deck do I use? Front, rear or Sub? Sorry for all the dumb questions, just stuff thats running thru my head i need to get …

I thought it would be interesting to see what everyone's FIRST system was or what you installed back in the day. For some of you that may not be that long ago. Here is one of mine. I didn't have money for my own system at the time but I remember this...... Concord cassette unit (that was the Cadillac of cassette units in the mid 80's) a pair of Pyramid 15's with a port (really just a hole in the box) 6x9 pyramids no upgrades in the front speakers 10 band graphic EQ (can you say... extra 40 watts) and I think it was a Blaupunkt amp running the subs This was in a 86 Cavalier. YEAH!!!! Lots of bass and bad sound up front. I got more but I'll wait

Ok Hello, I have my amplifier already picked out. I've been researching this for about a month or two and am stuck on a few areas.... being pretty new to car stereos I come to you for help. The amp I have chosen is the Viper D1200 and I'm debating on my speaker selection, its between 1 Alpine 10" Type X dual voice coil and 2 Alpine 10" Type R duals... I plan to run this amp at 1 ohm. I listen to mostly death/black metal or metal in general so SQ is what I'm after mostly but I occasionally listen to some rap and I would liek a decent compromise between sq and spl. Basically I am looking for something with the ability to get really loud if I want but will run my metal fine …

I got in on the Jan 1st special and purchased a set of Mach 5 Mli-65 mids. I've been planning a 2 way setup for my S10 that will run these mids, a passive crossover, and the North D25 tweeters. This will run off of either 2 channels of a Punch 600.4, or one of my Van Gough 600's. The setup is going into the door panels on an MDF baffle board that I'll be building soon. My question here is these tweeters are a low FS design and run at 6 ohm, the mids are 4 ohm. I found a set of Boston passive crossovers that're rated at 2700hz and I'm assuming they're rated at 8 ohm, here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Acoustics-2-Way...1QQcmdZViewItem If these are rated at 8 …

Hello everyone. I am trying to help a buddy put some thump in the trunk of his car. I have a little experience with subs and wiring, but I have never heard a system in a trunk. He is wanting to drop about $800 into this, including the wiring,sub(s), and amp. At first thought I figured a 15" bl and a sundown 1500d would do the trick, but he has no experience with porting or box building. If he went sealed I thought an Fi Q would sound very clean, but I'm not sure if that is what people look for with a trunk install if they want to hear it good in the cab. Would it be worth it taking the easy way out and going sealed, or should he look for a decent box builder? Also, w…

Im looking for a clamp style meter and ebay looks like the cheapest route. Im looking at a couple and would like some opinions on which would work best. Im looking for a true rms digital clamp meter. Immediately I plan on using it on my stereo's, mainly for AC voltage and current, but later for home repair with DC voltage and current. Its not a temporary buy as I want this to last awhile. I was also looking for the one that Jacob used in his testing but couldnt find it. He even posted a link where to buy the exact one. Of course Id like a fluke or a fieldpiece but they are too expensive and Im recently unemployed. Heres the ones im looking at now. The one thats catching m…

Yeah i thought that'd get some attention. I've got a freind that has 2 12" MA Hardkore (actually not as bad as i thought theyd be), and he has a Boss 3000 watt amp powering them. I smirked a little when i saw the amp he had on them, and it got me curious, what do you guys think/know the actual rms on this thing is? And how does boss even get away with overrating them so d4mn much? The title is a joke, and only intended to get some attention and maybe get a few people frustrated.

Alright well i finally got some cash and am looking to upgrade. Right now i'm looking at 2 Sundown SA-15's but i'm at a loss for what amp to run. I will set my gains right and I've heard these things are really beastly so I was thinking something in the 3k range? If anyone has some amp options or maybe even different subs. I have $450 for subs and around $350 for an amp. I realize the SA-15s are a bit more than $450 but I don't mind an extra $20. Short version 2 15's or something else to fit in around 7 cubic feet $450 3k amp $350 I will have the electrical to back it up Give me suggestions, if you want more info just ask Thanks in advance DylanH

On a suv which way should the subs and port be pointed. I was told subs up port forward what is best?