General Audio

so i was thinking about getting a ssd 15 for christmas but i didnt wanna wait that long so i started looking for a job haha. anyways i was thinking that if i get a job i could get 2 ssd 12s and a saz-1500. would that be a good set up? also i was thinking about buying one ssd 12 when i get some money and run her off my alpine mrp-m500 and then get the amp and other sub later. i heard that the alpine mrp-m500 is not good for a sub because it has a set subsonic filter at 15hz so could that amp hurt that sub?

now that finals for most organizations have happened or are coming up very soon, along with the holidays in the horizon, does anyone have some new plans for their system???

have looked and searched and have found almost no info about them http://www.champaudio.net/merlon_menu.htm thanks for any help.

I'm 17 and about to go to college how do I make car audio a career?

I have the CS60.4 and I am buying the sundown Friday. My car is only 70 amps with its alternator.. Can it fully support both of those amps?

Doing this for a guy on CA.com. Going into an Envoy with charcoal gray interior & woodgrain trim, so I'm trying to match it up, but I've never seen the vehicle. 9^3 @ 35Hz with 106^2 of port. Sub will fire up. Double baffle, window bracing, and 45's in the corners. Some dummy got ahead of himself and started painting before doing the sub cut out. Wooden rings will extend port openings and surround sub.

Friend needs system. Approx. $450 to spend on sub(s) and amp(s) Goals: Loud daily, but is not concerned about front stage, just wants lots of bass Vehicle: 1998 Chevy Venture, (will remove back row if need be to fit box depending on setup) Electrical: Stock except for big 3 I have thought about a couple different options, and was wondering who, if anyone, has had experience with the Audioque SD2.5 subs... Can get 2 15s for $280 and then an AQ-1200D for power... Open to any and all suggestions. Need more info? Let me know.

ok after a bit of research ive decided to try something alittle different then the standard 2 way with a mid and tweet. what i'd like to attempt will use a midbass with a small full range driver. current stuff equipment- Clarion DXZ785USB, kicker 100.2, kicker 250.2, pg rsd 6.5" components. door treatment- 2 layers of raammat on inner and outer, plus a layer on door panel speaker location- mids in doors, tweeters in diy a-piller pods aimed towards the middle (driver sides about 30 degrees off axis) sub stage- AA arsenal but usually i have it turned down and blended in unless im feeling like some rap... --------------- plan is to throw the biggest and baddest midbass in…

If you had to pick out of these few set ups, which one would you pick? 1) Fi Q 12" No BP SAE-1000d (Best Box for this?) 2) Fi Q 12" With BP SAZ-1500d (Best Box for this?) 3) AA Havoc 12" SAZ-1500d (Best Box for this?) 4) AA Havoc 12" RF 1500-1BD (Best Box for this?) I'm saving for my first car now and just want to get a nice system put in, budget is ok lower the better obv but dont want to buy some crap. I'm looking at a Corsa 1.2 SXi Twinport for the car. I'm looking for more of a SQ set up rather than SPL, but as you know everyone still wants it loud. So there you go! All help is very much appreciated Thanks, Pez

ok so what im wanting to know is what are the differences between an aero port or a normal cutout port? which is better for maintaiing spl and sq, more of the lines of getting louder? i do like the style and looks of an aero port but what are the advantages and disadvantages? id there any way to know what size aero port to get for a specific tuning? any help would be greatfully helped

this might come off as stupid on my part and im just trying to learn as much as i can so please no hate but why does when somebody ask about two different subs people always say there way different goals but theres only 3 goals that i know of deep sq or spl and when you say you want a sub that does one of those people say its 99.9 percent the build if thats true shouldnt you just get the sub with the most motor force and just build the box for what you want

I saw this video from D'Amore and was wondering what everyone thought about it?

I plan on purchasing these soon but need to get a decent amp can somebody recommend me one?

so i was wondering if we can have a list that we can make that will have a list of each amp that each one of us clamped and post it and can be added to a big list. This question came from me seeing this http://www.carstereoclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6516

hope to get some inputs for the sub. it could be a single 12", dual 12", dual 10" or a single 15". car to be designed on is a 96 accord. target is to be able to play loud but accurate. meaning it can play rap, techno/trans, soft/ballads, rock etc., still with good readings from termlab... possiblly dbdrag style yet as accurate sounding as possible. requirements: 1. box is no bigger that 3.5 cubes - so that spare tire would be accessible 2. box design can only be a wedge 2 enclosure type box - to maximize all space and still get the spare tire 3. sub would be placed facing the cabin, possibly on the back seat position for a single sub, but towards the trunk for a dual sub …

I'm thinking about getting a circle jig for my router, since my jig saw abilities seem to be getting awful rusty. I saw these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009K77D?smid=A...mp;linkCode=asn http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=3 What kind of bit do you need?

I am going to bi amp my mb quarts and want some recomendations on what wire to use. I was trying to find the best deal on a 4conductor wire 4/16 or 4/14 prefferd. But am open to ideas for a better solution. If it makes a differece the drivers door wire goes right behind the fuse box and computer so shielded or twisted paire would be best?

I'm new to this forum and it's probably obvious, as I may be posting this in the wrong section. Anyways, I'm looking to get some component speakers for my 99 Honda Civic LX. I'm sorta on a budget so I'm just replacing the stock front door speakers for now. I was thinking about getting a pair of Infinity Reference 6020cs as they have great reviews on Crutchfield. However, someone in another forum told me that I could get better for the same amount of money, and to perhaps direct my inquiry here. Does anyone have any advice? I plan to use this with a Clarion DXZ585USB CD receiver without any type of amp for the time being... Any advice would be great. I'm super poor and jus…

Hey guys I am looking to upgrade my head unit in my boat. I am redoing the hole thing. I have two 15 SSA in ported boxes. (Still waiting on this stuff) For highs I have eight Hertz 6.5" at 4 ohms with two Hertz amps running them in stereo. I dont have room for and head other than a 1-Din. I have a marine Kenwood now in boat with two wired remotes. Bluetooth is a must! My Kenwood now is not and running a cable to phone sucks. I play 90% of my music from phone. I am willing to ditch the wired remotes for a better head. I did order Kenwoods new marine unit it is Bluetooth but feel there is better.... I want good eq controls,is higher rca volts better? The new Kenwood was lik…

Thinking of running 4 FUSION REACTOR 4" Coaxials http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/north-....aspx#addninfo, 2 in each door. I want to make a plate to fit 2 in each of my factory 2003 Mazda Protege ES 5x7 positions in my front doors. Will be running them off a DSC450 bridged, so 100 watts rms a set. With 2 Kenwood KFC-ST30 tweets in the factory mounts run off the deck, 22 watts rms. No rear fill, gonna leave 6x9 holes open. I want to try something different, tired of just replacing factory speakers with same size upgrades, but not ready to do full blown door pods yet. So, what do y'all think? I think it would be nice and loud yet crisp. Not really anal about having alot of mid…

Well I was just told that I am not allowed to install my own equipment when I get it. The reason is because of my warrenty. But I will be taking all my stuff to a car audio install place. I will try and ask them if I can watch but when I get home I'm going to be tuning it myself and double checking the wiring just in case.

The Termlab is the official meter for most comps around the country but it costs close to 700 and most individuals sigh away from the price. Hyperdynamics meter through ebay costs less than 100 but retails for around 350. They claim their meter is stricter than the Termlab, slightly (0.1-2.0db lower than Termlab between Db ranges of 120-170). Db ranges 171-180 have been noted to post upwards of almost 9 Db lower than Termlab. This meter also goes up to 230Db accurate whereas the Termlab goes to 180 accurate. Hyperdynamics is used to test explosions, bombs, shotgun blast, etc... The reading methods are very different as well. Termlab- Just hookup to laptop and watch your s…

i have been on this forum and looking around at other guys cars/trucks. they all seem to get one subwoofer say a 12/15 inch woofer and on the videos they are flexing like crazy the roof of the car the trunk side windows and so on. they put a 2000-3000 watt sundown on it what im getting at why not get woofers that take less watts like 4 or 8 subwoofers that take lets say 150-200 watts rms per subwoofer and use less watts from your amp and your alternator and that should get way more output from like 1100 watts from your amp then getting a big 3500 watt monster that will pull 350 amps on one subwoofer and make your volts drop in low 11s im not trying to start a war just …

I have 4 7inch Carbon Fiber AAs and a SAX 100.4D with a Alpine ida-x305s. My problem I have is when I turn the volume up on my head unit to the volume where my subs play great at the 7" AAs cannot keep up and I start to smell them very strongly, if i play them at a level where the AAs are playing fine my subs are barely moving and the volume on the head unit isn't close to where I set it at regularly. I had a previous front stage of (2) Alpine Type R component sets and they played amazing at the level I play my subs at.. because of this i have cut the remote wire on my 100.4 and have not been enjoying them. I don't know if it's because of the install/leaky door.. or if it…

Ok so heres the canvas for the the build. 2007 honda fit base. um it has a 75 amp alt. Guess thats about all the info i have. The only limitations are basically the car and the electronics. I don't really want to upgrade the alt. Not looking to void any warranties either. I don't mind putting a battery in the back. Doesn't matter if the box is sealed or ported. Oh and i won't use anything bigger than a 12" or ONE 13" woofer e.g. a focal or JL W7. The object of the build is "LESS IS MORE" be that woofer size, amount of woofers, or amp size. Don't really care about the size of the box. I do want to retain the use of my back seat so everything has to go in the b…