General Audio

1. Where is a hole in the firewall? Doesn't have to be that large, just need one for one run of 10 gauge. 2. Disconnect battery ... airbag deployment, loss of security, etc ... any of that BS? 3. Install head unit - is it as easy as those couple screws in the bottom panel and then take the top one off? 4. Running wire - where? Under door sills? Can figure it out when I know where that goddamn firewall hole is. Any help appreciated. Needed before tomorrow morning I'm still searching myself.

The other day I was in the drive through at Wendy's and my mids and highs sounded odd so I turned the subs off and cranked the volume higher than I ever listen to my system to try and pin point it. After I got my food I turned the subs back on with the headunit still paused without turning it down Lawl...so I unpause it and KABLOOMBANGNASTYSHITBRIXLOUD....I scared the fuck out of myself and my girl wouldn't talk to me for a while lol...has anybody else had a shitbrix bass moment?

Just wondering who can build me a box 2.4 cuft tuned at 32Hz. Argent Audio is barely over my budget.. Carpet and shipped for $130. i live in cypress california 90630. a simple L box with terminals is fine. like to see some of your work before i choose aswell.

Alright my budget is around $800 and i was wanting to get Fi Subs. I really like the SSD's but i think that may be out of my budget. So i was wondering if the Fi.X's are any good? If not then i want to go with the SSD's And i was wondering what amp would be great at running these at 1ohm stable.

i have been searching the web for some 0 gauge ring terminals and all i can find is 2 packs for like almost 10 bucks or each sold separately, but i need like maybe 20-30 total. anyone know where i can buy bulk packs of them....??????

where are some good website to buy 0 gauge power/ ground wire.. knukonceptz is still out of stock.... anybody got some suggestions?

FYI - http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=49179 I'm in for one for the TC Uber... Just thought a couple of you might take interest. -Nick

the plan is to get the 15 l7 walled off and deaden the cab with a roll of raamat. im planning on keeping his factor stereo because he has the digital climate controlls build in. its the mach audio system so there is a factory amp. ive been told its puts outs 20x4. id like to add the mtx req if anyone thinks it would help. and as far the speakers go idk what id like to do here. budget is about 150-175. or $250 budget if u throw out the mtx req and go a different way with that. any advice?

OK, my 18 Btl is on its way for my grand am. the alternator is a 105 amp alternator. so im not sure WHAT im going to need, just that most likely i will to power it suffeciently. I got the BTL fully loaded with everything, and this is my daily driver car. Current Funds-900-1000$ Purchased: Fi BtL 18 here are the Amps i am looking at. Hifonics BXI2008-275$ shipped or a KICKER ZX2500.1-750$ shipped Or what do you reccomend what kind of Cap should i get? or not get one? New alternator? If so what kind? and What kind of wire, i was told Monster 1/0 Gauge is that correct? thing is not sure if i can run the kicker and have enough power STOCK to handle it, and have enough money…

My buddy just picked it up. Has a lot of gadgets going with the HU. Can he upgrade it? Or, will it make him lose some of the finctionality of the displays and whatnot? It has plenty of room in the trunk and could uae some audio upgrades. Stock is bose speakers. They still dont sound great IMO.

Hey Everyone I've got a 745Li that I am bypassing the entire L7 audio system. The system is not what i want and i don't want to invest 1000 bucks just to put aftermarket amps into it. My idea is to first remove the ASK unit. Then fabricate the trim to fit a din size that will allow any aftermarket radio t0 fit. I'm sure the trim won't be strong enough to hold the weight of a head unit, so i need some of your ideas on supporting that weight. this part should be fairly simple. I'd like to cover the trim in an exact match of wood grain as the rest of the car but i have no clue where to go with that idea. I'll have to find an ignition and a 12v constant along with a gro…

Hey, I've got a fella that lives a few hours away that wants me to build a box for his 03 Ford ZX2, However I don't have anyway to measure out the trunk and to get him to understand and tell me the correct dimensions isn't gonna happen... (no common sense at all....) So does anyone have a ZX2 or happen to know the dimensions of the trunk I'm thinking 32x14x18 W x H x D rear firing a pair of 12's roughly 3 cubes 30 hz.... after dis

Jesus man.

Hey guys i had a similar post a few months back, but i have done some more research and this is what i have came up with. have a 2007 GMC Sierra Classic reg. cab what im trying to achieve is enjoyable SQ for all types of music from bass heavy rap to country to classic rock and everything else in between. I would like it to sound clear at both low and high volumes. Im trying to keep the install as stock looking as possible. Budget is around $2,300 total. I would like to keep the speakers and tweets in the doors i understand that this is not the best location and will be off axis, but i am willing to adjust time aligment and EQ untill i have it dialed in. I can also experi…

Anyone here have an 8th generation Honda Accord? If you do what system do you have in it and what does your trunk look like? Im trying to figure out how to build a box my 12" XCON subwoofer but the trunk is so stupidly designed. its very wide towards the trunk opening then goes very narrow as you move towards the seats due the wheel wells arching up into the floor. I dont want to Kill my entire trunk space by having to build a box and put it towards the trunk opening cuz i need to use my trunk here is a picture of how the trunk looks (you can see what im talking about how stupid the design is and here is a picture of when i had my alpine type R's in them. …

anyone knows where the hole in the firewall is? if so, will it fit 0 gauge cause i cant seem to find one...anyone knows something i dont?

http://www.floridacaraudio.com/kicker-qs602-pictures/

I would like somebody to explain to me how Mark gets 143dbs with 1 12" XCON on a khaotik enclosure and the guy from the tahoe only reaches ~156dbs with 4 18s? I mean, I know after certain point, each db requires more than just another amplifier or an extra battery, but I cant understand why the difference is so close. Either the XCON is THAT good or there is something going on with the smd subs Is it that the 18s are in a box that is not spacious enough? or is it that the box needs a redesign? I believe I remember st3ve saying each of the smd subs had 4.65 cubic feet, I think that sounds kinda tight.

Hey guys, I just wanted your opinions on what enclosure would be better in terms of "loudness". That may be defined differently for some of you, but I'm looking for a low boomier type of bass. I'm not sure what setup I have planned for will be loudest though. Here's what I got so far: Setup 1: 1 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft ported enclosure @ 32 hz, running 900w @ 2 Ohms. OR Setup 2: 2 12" Fi Q in a 2.5 cu ft sealed enclosure, both wired down to run 600w each @ 1 ohm. The reason I don't do both speakers in a ported enclosure is because I don't have 4-5 cubes of space to offer in my car trunk. Gotta put the groceries somewhere, you know? Anyways, I'd love to hear some thoughts …

Hey guys my name is Alex I'm 17 and have been very addicted to car audio my whole life even hooking them up in my room etc. However I have a 1994 Buick Lesabre currently running 2 12" kicker comps in a sealed box doing barely 110 dbs which to alot of people is very low so I want to upgrade to 1 15" fi btl fully loaded dual 2 ohm to wire it at 1 ohm p chamfer, cooling, hixmcoil, daily, i heat ring, non universal, white dust cap were the options I thought were the best ones. Here is the issue I need a box that will give me the best SPL/db readings possible sound quality is not a huge issue for me the box will be in a sealed trunk very little air gets in the car with the bac…

Quick question. What is better having 1 big amp for 2 subs or having 1 amp for both subs that match the sub wattage?

For fun: If you had to pick one brand for amp, sub, speakers who would you pick and why ? Let's say $5000 budget on one and one dream no budget build. omit head unit so more brands to pick from. SQ build and/or SPL your pick. Just for fun, curious to everyone's picks.

I was wondering what would sound louder?. One Fi bl 15 tuned to 32 hz in a 3.1 cu box firing upwards in the back of a trunk. Or 2 SA 10's in walled off trunk? And if i was to go with the 2 10's, would it be better to seal off the trunk and have the subs firing towards the front of the car, or would it be louder to wall off the trunk having a port and the subs facing the front of the car?

planning on purchasing the Q1-1200D and running a FI Q12 at 1 ohm producing 1200watts. If I were to switch the FI Q12 for say an SSA Gcon 12 rated at 750rms and running the Q1-1200D at 2 ohms producing 870watts would the response/SQ etc. be different ? What I'm really wondering is stressing the amp at 1 ohm pushing the Q12 produce not as good clear/SQ/responsive bass then running it at 2ohms with a Gcon 12? Or for comparing purposes say the ICON 12 with Q1-1200D at 1 ohm vs the GCON 12 with Q1 at 2 ohms produce a different sound ? I'm not asking for SPL/LOUD but a difference in sound clarity/response etc. in the bass. I hope my question is clear LOL. My main goal is …

Hi again today ! I just want to know why so much people here run there amp at 1 ohms. Isn't it to hard for the car electrical system ? I have heard it is better to play at 4 ohms than 2, and 2 ohms is better than 1. What do you think, because I would like to buy an amp for my next sub. I need to choose between the DVC 1 or DVC 2 on a SSA Icon 15, and only after that, I will be able to pick a Sundown amp. Do you guys know how to have a good deal on a package sub + amp ? (SSA Icon 15 + Sundow, or other). Thanks for your help