General Audio

The Termlab is the official meter for most comps around the country but it costs close to 700 and most individuals sigh away from the price. Hyperdynamics meter through ebay costs less than 100 but retails for around 350. They claim their meter is stricter than the Termlab, slightly (0.1-2.0db lower than Termlab between Db ranges of 120-170). Db ranges 171-180 have been noted to post upwards of almost 9 Db lower than Termlab. This meter also goes up to 230Db accurate whereas the Termlab goes to 180 accurate. Hyperdynamics is used to test explosions, bombs, shotgun blast, etc... The reading methods are very different as well. Termlab- Just hookup to laptop and watch your s…

I thought it would be interesting to see what everyone's FIRST system was or what you installed back in the day. For some of you that may not be that long ago. Here is one of mine. I didn't have money for my own system at the time but I remember this...... Concord cassette unit (that was the Cadillac of cassette units in the mid 80's) a pair of Pyramid 15's with a port (really just a hole in the box) 6x9 pyramids no upgrades in the front speakers 10 band graphic EQ (can you say... extra 40 watts) and I think it was a Blaupunkt amp running the subs This was in a 86 Cavalier. YEAH!!!! Lots of bass and bad sound up front. I got more but I'll wait

I am currently financially strapped and so i cant spend money on sound deadening products like dynamat and fatmat, second skin etc etc.... anyway i was wondering if there are any other ways to stop the trunk from rattling...... I tightened up all the bolts in the trunk which helped very little but it still helped nonetheless. I noticed under the carpet in my trunk is a layer of stock sound deadening im guessing. It is also surrounding the 6x9's on the rear deck in the car. I have several cars at my house that are out of comission, if that layer of fabric under the carpet is an actual sound deadener, i was wondering would it be possible to somehow jerry-rig a way to stick…

If there was one thing the internet could offer you car audio enthusiasts that it doesn't already , or think something could be greatly improved, what would that be? I'm talking store selections, information guides, specs for cars, anything. Kevin

So after listening to M5 and a couple other people on this forum who made great points to remove my 6.5" speakers from my rear deck I am glad you guys opened me up to a whole different world of sound in my car. Those 2-6.5" opening allow for so much bass to come through into the cabin of my car from the trunk its ridiculous, more ouput and better sound from my subs was gained. I used to be one of those guys who wanted millions of speakers in the interior of the car no matter where I could put them. I learned that the right placement, power, control(EQ'ing) would make up for more sound than a billion speakers in the ca (one friend used to tell me before I joined this site …

Here's the setup I'm planning for thus far: Head Unit - Pioneer Premiere DEH-P600UB (need/want the iPod control integrated, like the looks of the unit) Front Stage - Morel Tempo 6 Front Stage Amp - Sundown Audio SAX-125.2 (check SA forum, released on the 21st of Nov.) Sub Stage - Three 12" Fi SSD's Sub Box - Custom box with 1.1cu ft per woofer Sub Amp - Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D Wiring - All Stinger 1/0g, stinger RCAs, stinger distribution blocks, etc... (getting a smokin' deal on stuff from a shop going out of business). Will be upgrading the "Big 3" as well. Not planning on doing a rear stage or swapping in new rear speakers. Maybe I should throw in some matching Morel …

i have about 5 cubes to work with.. so 18 inch bl? or 15 inch q? ported btw

Okay so I just got a new Dodge Dart a week ago, and I love it! It has 6x9's in the door's and obviously leave a lot to be desired. They have quite a bit of midbass, but lack everywhere else, so the fronts have to go, I don't care about the back door speakers. My Goals: - CHEAP - Decent overall Sound, plenty of midbass - Loud, Bright, not harsh. I have always been a fan of bright Silk tweets. - Keep stock HU - CHEAP - CHEAP What I have: - stock 6x9 - Alpine V-Power 50x4 - spot for an 8" sub in the rear deck. - Line out for factor HU - spot in dash firing up for up to a 3" mid/ tweeter - LPG 26 tweeters I bought when I was going to go active with some CDT ES-06. What I need…

I dont know any thing about crunch . it has 4 40 amp fuses. i have herd people say THE crunch has stepped up there game . its does one ohm , and it says its a monster . i havent read to much bad about it . does anybody know whats up with this amp. any help will help. thanks

so within the next week or so ill be buying a manufacturer section on the forum and i need opinions and suggestions for products to offer i have speaker rings with and without tweeter mounts pre fab boxes but optimized for certain subs knockdown home theater speaker boxes and whole kits door pods and custom panel engraving what else should i offer, remember that these will all be things i can cut out of my cnc i can cut wood, plexi and engrave metal

Alright so i was messing around with sketchup and i think i have decided on what enclosure designs i want. Specs are not perfect im just aiming for design right now. I want opinions of which you would get or which would work/sound better. Keep in mind its going in a full size standard cab truck #1 #2 #3 (I wont have both ports just didn't know if it would be better to port it on the top or bottom.)

Im going to building a box here shortly that will use aero ports. Reason for this post is to hopefully find someone who has dealt with my particular problem before. Box will require 3 aero ports each about 17" in length 3" in diameter. An experimental ABC box. although i have no more than about 11.5" depth to work with (internal) The box will be going into a s10 so not a ton of depth to play with. I will need to use elbows in my ports. I really like the precision port kits but they dont seem to offer an elbow attachment. I took a look over at parts express and it appears Dayton makes kits that do offer an elbow..although reading a review on the elbow piece someone says th…

cuurent 20001 lincoln towncar L 1 200 amps alt 3 yellow tops 2 fully loaded 15 FI BL"S 1 sundown 3000 1 jl 300/4 4 screens 1 indash dvd h/u 4 heated heats HID headlights A/C heater those are all my current loads coming soon, above PLUS 2 more yellow tops, for a a end number of 5 2 sundown 100's HID back up lights perhaps another sundown 3000's and chaging the bl's out for BTL's with the 3rd option is 600 bucks worth a Dual Alternator Kit and do ya think i need one now? or later after i get some of the more power loads installed? thanks

Hey guys. Ok so a few weeks ago, my stereo began to exhibit a strange problem. It would sort of skip but while fading in and out with weird background noise that sounds like a disk spinning. I figured it was the CD player in my deck, but this problem occurred while using Aux and the radio as well. The problem directly correlates with me slowing down, turning, or making any change in direction, and it is VERY sporadic. I obviously figured it was my deck, so I replaced it with a new one. The problem is now occurring again. I'm at a loss. It is obviously not anything in the deck, and I cannot figure out where this very odd fading/skipping would come from. And like I said, …

Well its my senior year of highschool and i've been trying to figure out what to do with my life. I don't really have ideas but i was thinking about something to do with car audio. I enjoy tinkering with my system alot and think it would make a fun career. My question for ya'll would be does any body here besides the SSA owners do this as a career? Do you have any advice for me or guidance. I wanna eventually have a store that sells quality products very similar to the SSA store. Is there a school for this? Would there be a field i would need a degree in? Thanks for the help. EDIT: If any body is in the field if you don't mind me asking, what kind of salary should …

I have a 2011 Dodge Challenger with the following audio gear: Stock HU, base model Audio Control LC2i Audio Control EQL Boston Acoustics GTA 1005- 5 channel, 50X4 + 250X1 JL Audio 12W0 in a 1.4ft3 sealed enclosure MB Quart 6X9 components up front woofers in stock doors with CLD tiles, tweeters in stock dash location aiming up. In boxes in the closet BA GT 275 BA GT 2125 Sundown E-15 My goal is going active to get much better SQ, keeping stock speaker locations, sorry I just can't chop up my beautiful car. Budget around a $1,000 or so, I'm a teacher so I'm totally loaded . What I've learned so far... everything is a compromise don't buy anythin…

Well, today I was driving down the road with the stereo playing at my typical volume when all of a sudden all the lights on my dash (digital readouts) shut off for a split second, then come back on. At the exact same time this happens, my stereo drops in volume by a good 10-15db and gets extremely distorted. It basically sounded like my subs cut off, mids stopped playing and tweets got extremely distorted and dropped in volume. This only lasted 1 second at most, but immediately after it happened my car started having major voltage drop when the bass hit (mind you, I've never even had my lights dim with this setup). I don't have a voltmeter in my car, so I don't know …

So here is my 2006 RT and started off with this bad boy lol I was not impressed and looked for a REC Nav. Found it! And also the Nav Bezel for $130 at the dealership ( 1CB331ZB-AA NAV Bezel ) GPS Antenna ( 56038630-AA ) Cant forget the TVandNav2Go All Done~ I never got the TVandNav2Go to work because it was wired wrong and it just didnt work with my REC. So I got fed up with everything and sold it all haha. The New Fun Begins! Sundown Audio SAE 1200 RMS and thats rated at 13.1v 2 12 inch fully loaded SSD's from Fi Car Audio. Custom Switches - One to turn on a inverter, the other to power on the modded xbox with 1000's of games, movies, and music. Box bein…

On a suv which way should the subs and port be pointed. I was told subs up port forward what is best?

Ive been buying alot of stuff lately for my upcoming build. Well certain things are popping out at me that Im going to need to purchase... First thing is an equalizer. what is a good EQ at a affordable price? Would love zapco, but its not in my budget right now. Also I had a PPI EQ a while back and it only had 2 inputs (1 main and 1 aux) which were switchable. my deck has 3 sets of RCA's in the back (Front, rear, sub) .. how is this done? Do i only use 1 set going into the EQ and EQ out to my sub and high's amp's? Which set of RCA's off the back of the deck do I use? Front, rear or Sub? Sorry for all the dumb questions, just stuff thats running thru my head i need to get …

The Tang Band website won't load for me, so if someone could throw me a box size, for these two woofers: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-832 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-831 I am thinking about a new speaker-backpack, for the school show. I will build the box for this out of 1/2" mdf, tuned to 32hz, with one aero port. Also does anyone know of a small (size) 2 or 4 channel amp (4 channel preferred) i need a realtively cheap small footprint amp, to go in a backpack. i am purchasing a 12 volt, or 14 volt battery to power it. Nothing too powerful, i want to keep away from clipping it.

Hello everyone. I am trying to help a buddy put some thump in the trunk of his car. I have a little experience with subs and wiring, but I have never heard a system in a trunk. He is wanting to drop about $800 into this, including the wiring,sub(s), and amp. At first thought I figured a 15" bl and a sundown 1500d would do the trick, but he has no experience with porting or box building. If he went sealed I thought an Fi Q would sound very clean, but I'm not sure if that is what people look for with a trunk install if they want to hear it good in the cab. Would it be worth it taking the easy way out and going sealed, or should he look for a decent box builder? Also, w…

So I've been debating on how to do my front stage for a while, and would appreciate some help. I currently have an 880prs for the processing and 8 channels of amplification to work with. I have an arc 400.4 and an older cadence ZRS-4. These are the drivers that I have http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-352 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=277-035 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-376 I need help with crossover points. One of my latest ideas was to ditch the tweeter and run the full range higher. (Is it possible to have it play that high, or a bad idea?) I know that I'm probably leaving out vital inf…

I am looking to upgrade my current setup. I have a Directed Audio D2400 pushing 2 Hifonics Brutus Subs in a ported pre-fab box. It was a pretty good setup, but now I want more. I have been looking at the AQ sdc2.5 15" woofer. I would want to power it with a Hifonics 1200D Brutus Series amp. Running it at 2 ohms, which would send about 900 rms to the sub. I researched, sub and amp is a little under $400 total . Is there any setup that is better than this for the price. They are going in the trunk of an 04 Grand Prix. Thanks Justin

http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/747/sound...closed-for-good Didn't see that one coming.