General Audio

Been a minute but I figured I'd ask. Due to a fire at my buddy of 20+ years stereo shop I got a few things out from helping him clean up (head unit and subs) All of which for the wife's truck. It will be using a pioneer 210ex for the head unit, not installed yet, but need to upgrade the front door speakers. My question is would the evils do alright off of the head unit alone? Or should I look at putting them on an amp. Possibly a set of tweeters also. But main focus is on front doors.

https://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcnuttfuneralhome.com%2Fobituaries%2FColeman-Bartlett-Thedinger%3FobId%3D6426385&h=AT0jVWcf0d2Q4-0hLT1TlLLSUd7fOcOx3mDk3xojH1SjG--DzncU8wTXkAhySf-JzFnSkojRVKwNLLs47Mhhk-qNYV-HCNCKsf-2n5InQn9zc2F2_e4zYpk11T9ejDihfAj7yL8c7G_aHbZ59y1jJJ1aCwgdROgSkdZKdA

Hello everybody I need help on selecting subwoofers for my setup. I finally saved up enough lunch money to do it. I just can't decide on what subs to get. I've broke it down to 4 subs. 1. Fi Q ferrite 12's @ 1750rms 2. Sundown U serious 12's @1500rms 3. Soundqubed Hdx3.1 12's @1500rms 4. Skar zvx v2 12's @1500rms I have all the electrical and a H/O alternator to run everything I just can't make up my mind. Can someone please get me over the hump? Thanks for your time.

I recently put a system in my regular cab Silverado, and i am wondering about where to start (general range) for crossover points. I have 2 sundown sd3 10s running off of an NVX1200.1 and a set of SSA Evil 6.5s and Tweeters running off of an NVX 800.4. It is running active off of a pioneer 80prs. Also, is there a general place to start as far as slopes go? 12db or 24db? I know every install is different and people have different tastes but im just looking for a decent place to start from.

Im looking for a clamp style meter and ebay looks like the cheapest route. Im looking at a couple and would like some opinions on which would work best. Im looking for a true rms digital clamp meter. Immediately I plan on using it on my stereo's, mainly for AC voltage and current, but later for home repair with DC voltage and current. Its not a temporary buy as I want this to last awhile. I was also looking for the one that Jacob used in his testing but couldnt find it. He even posted a link where to buy the exact one. Of course Id like a fluke or a fieldpiece but they are too expensive and Im recently unemployed. Heres the ones im looking at now. The one thats catching m…

I have a sundown x10 in 2cubic foot box aero port tuned to 32 hz now. Amp is skar sk1500v2 car is 2011 Toyota Camry sub and port are rear facing towards trunk lid about 1foot away. Looking to go with fi ssd fully loaded 10 in same box for better sq and still maintain a nice punch. Would this box be to much for this speaker? I love the x 10 from 32hz to about 45 hzeverything else it seams to struggle with? Would more power be the solution or should I go with something like the fi?

I’m running 2 skv2 1500.1s at the moment strapped,gonna be adding 2 more..What do y’all recommend for 1/0 runs to the back battery bank?Also would 1 dedicated run of ground be enough?

I am currently running a single sundown sa-8 under my rear seat in my truck. Dual 2 ohm voice coils. Powering it with a us amps md -1d At 4 ohms. I want a little more and was debating about buying a Memphis mojo 8” to fit in same box so I could wire it down to 1 ohm to get more juice from the amplifier. The mojo Is rated at 900 w rms 1800 max(stated on website). The amp pushes 1200 w at 1 ohm. (Claimed) the sundown is rated around 500 rms. Any suggestions on which route to go? Is the Memphis better then the sundown?

so I have a Sundown Audio X-15 D4 15" Dual 4-Ohm 1250W RMS Subwooferand, and 2 CAB 1600.1 (Car Audio Bargain) - Rated 1600 watts RMS 1 ohm and I wanna strap both amps to this sub can it be possible.

two weeks ago I installed a kenwood ddx6905s a pare of 6.5 and 6x9 rockford fosgate prime speakers a 12 in ssa demon in a 1.25cf sealed box after displacement powered by a fosgate prime r500x1d in my 2014 corolla the speakers sound grate but the sub does not the bass sounds muddy my 7 year old dcon in the same size box still sounds as good as the day I got it is this a eq problem with the kenwood I set my gains with my liumy lm2001

So i got a double din installed on my car and after about a month my system would just randomly turn off(headunit would power off and same with subs and amp) it did it once then would reboot. I took it in they changed the wire harness and the ground. It fixed it for about 2 days i then decided to change my negative battery cable and that fixed it for a few months and then it came back and i noticed that with the head unit turned off that there was a bass note from the subs playing real faint until i turn the bass knob it gets louder. What could be the issue on why my head unit turns off by its self faulty head unit, bad amp need help asap.

Hello there I own a crescendo bc 3500 and someone has offered to trade their sound quebed 4500 for my BC 3500 is this a fair trade or a mistake ?

Hello I was hoping someone could give some insight on two box designs I'm trying to build for a friend. The box will be for 2 10 inch skar ddx. We want to go for 1.75 cubic feet per sub so 3.5 net total. His dimensions are 39" wide 15" deep and 17" tall. Wanting a higher tune 39hz. https://s1126.photobucket.com/user/Ceeze90/library?page=1

I wanted to know what is the way to measure port length when it comes to an L. I googled and found someone posted on another forum a hunch of different methods. So I wasn't sure which is the most common way to measure it. When I do and L port I usually keep the width consistent through out but I'm not sure if I'm measuring it correct. for instance on a regular L port say 18" long in a 12x12x12 box. With the port width being 2", I'd go towards the rear 10", then make a bend, and put a wood going 4" . So I'd count the first length as 12" then the bend has a 4" wood and I'd add the 2" gap from the second wood to the side of the box to get my 16" . Is that kinda in …

i don't know if this gets posted hear but hear it goes i have an L7S15 hooked up to Pyle / pla4478 that is hooked to a atoto/ SA102 deck the speakers are hooked from the doors to the deck not to the amp the problem that i am having is when i am playing music loud the doors speakers cut out but the bass dose not you can still hear the bass so i have to close the music app an reopen it do get audio to come back through the doors when its playing its playing it sounds good an plays great but all the sudden audio stops and bass keeps playing any help would be great i don't know if this helps but it happens through apple car play

Hello everyone, I am designing my own box and was hoping someone could review it. Goal was no smaller than 4 cu ft. Its an 18" Treo SSX rebuilt by PSI. Treo recommended 50cu in. of port, BUT i told them I was using aero ports and they still recommended the same..? I was always under the impression they didnt need as much port? This design is 1x 8" port = 50 cu in. I can't figure out another configuration to hit 40 cu in, if 50 is to much. Tuned to about 35hz. (see attached) Any help is appreciated Sketchup for box.skp

Hello everyone, Its been several years since I was in the car audio scene. I am interested in getting my sub up an running again in a cost effective way. Last I was involved, team PSI was doing a lot of customizing subs, many many people were running Sundowns, and Audioque, DD, and FI. I had an 18" Treo Engineering SSX which was rebuilt be PSI as a dual flatwound alum VC. I was running an Autotek MM3000.1 at .5 ohms tuned to 33Hz. Daily I was doing about 148+ db. I saved this sub for the last 5-6 years because I loved it so much and swore to myself I would use it again some day. Team DOA was killin it in the Chicagoland competitions, especiall…

This isn't going to be a huge build just something as a stock upgrade with a little bit of kick for the old lady. I want it as simple as I can get. Probably going with a five channel amp just for the ease of the install and eyeing the sundown 1100.5 I believe 150x4 at 2 ohms for the fronts and 800x1 for the sub channel. Probably a sealed truck box. Only doing front doors and preferably 2 12's if they fit and there's enough airspace. Any ideas what will sound decent with that power? By no means will it ever compete. Just a little bump and clarity.

I'm not new to car audio just been a few years since I've had to put together a system. I'm getting a 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback soon and I'm already planning on getting a little system for it. I'll be taking some components out of my truck and selling off the rest with it. Headunit is Pioneer AVH-X4700BS Amp NVX JAD900.5 I have these in my truck now with a Sundown SD-3 10" will sell I plan to get the NVX V-Series components in 6.5" and the coaxial in 6x8 for the rear door. As far as subs I'm not wanting anything large as far as box size/sub size. I loved my SA-8 v1 I had years ago. The amp does 440w at 2ohm which configuration would give me the best…

Hello, I have a 2014 Accord EX-L sedan that comes stock with nav and touch screen and the stock audio system is JUNK! It comes with four 6.5 inch speakers that sound super flat and a 8inch sub that isn’t enough for me. I plan on replacing all speakers but I want to know if I can upgrade my system without changing my stock head unit. If it helps at all I have the 4 channel alpine MRV-F300 amp for speakers and the Sundown SAZ-1500d for my subs. If I can’t upgrade without changing my headunit what would be my best option for better sound?

I have a Chevy extended cab full size I want to compete with again, I don’t want a wall or blowthru should I do 4 12” or couple 15” or 18”? one big sub or multiple subs? i will be changing out my alt and adding batteries as needed i use to have 3 JL 12W7 I’m a slot port box with one 1000 slash amp per sub in an s10 extended cab hitting 153.4

Hey guys, been awhile. I've been messing around with the build here and there for the last 2 years and its largely remained the same. I swapped in a mini dsp 6x8 and a new 4 channel amp for the mids and tweets. https://imgur.com/Gdu11nn Currently the build is a 3 way front stage with SLS 8's in the doors along with Tangband w4's and some peerless tweets in the kick panels. The problem is that the driver side kick panel is this strange black hole for mid to high frequencies. I've spent the last two days trouble shooting the amp and wiring to make sure its not something electrical. That all said, I think I'm going back to the A pillar full range setup (eith…

Hello, just looking for some advice on my build ill be working on. Currently have 2 Orion HCCa152 Subs. I have the 2ohm ones at 2,500w RMS each. I was wondering if anyone knew of any good amps that can run 5000 watts at 2ohms THe biggest alt I can get is 270A and ill be buying from either Mechman or Singer. And my second question is, how many batteries should I expect to run with this buiild, and which ones will be best? I have a custom box built for my car. I have a 2010 forester. It'll be tuned to 28hz. Would also like some recommendations on a mid/highs amp.

Not sure if anyone else was on the email list but they announced they are reopening and are currently producing subs, plans to release the extremis 6.8 for early next year and Koda's either in the first or second half of the year. https://adireaudio.com/