General Audio

I was invited down to the MTX factory by the ex-CEO of MTX, who the the son of the owner of MiTek USA. He has been a long time fan of SSA (closet browser). He owns "Magnum Sales Southwest". Which is a distribution center for many many brands. If you're in Phoenix Area and cannot find any decent power wire (like me), contact these guys! 1.888.256.7740 http://www.MagnumWest.com Thanks to John Ivey for the Tour anyone want some pictures?

Ok I have a 95 Honda Civic EX, I don't have the big 3 and My alternator only pushes 70 amps, I know I know it sucks. Ok I finished installing my sound system today and am having an issue. Well I just went back out there and found out one of the subs is blown.... So that means (Second) the smell was coming from the subs????? I have 5+ ofc power and ground wires running to the amp, coul the smell be the amp too? or would it just be the subs? No I DID'NT have the gain all the way up at all, just lowpass. I did turn the gain a stich over half way.what do you guys think? Sorry, my amp is a 2000.1D Hifonics Zues and subs are 1300watt(400rms) Pioneers IDk what type. Had them wir…

Ok so looking for both front door and rear door speakers to match up with a Nendo C1100.4. I'm looking at the CDT audio HD-63 Braxial set (180 RMS) and the HD-61A set (170 RMS). both sets are 6.5" woofers and come with both crossovers and tweeters. Thought of using the tweeters off the rear set (HD-61A)in the front for a total of 4 tweets in the front. Any recommendations? thoughts? Ideas? Is CDT audio a good brand? Is the amp too much for those speakers? Any other companies I should consider to match up with the C1100.4? Also I really want to keep things as factory LOOKING as possible at this time. Minor modding is cool but not really wanting to do glass and the…

Alright man, here ya go. Your own thread to use for any and all questions you have. This way it saves space on the servers and saves you time in asking. What's your first question?

The Hawaii Car Audio community just found out today that the state is trying to pass a law that will make it ILLEGAL to "install, posses, or operate" any aftermarket system including any subwoofers, any speakers exceeding 6.5", any speaker exceeding 100 watts, etc. The bill can be found here: http://www.capitol.hawaii.gov/session2011/bills/HB1178_.pdf Most of us are just hearing about this today, and the hearing on the bill is Wednesday, Feburary 9th (yes just 2 days from today). We're trying to get as many people as possible to go down to the hearing on Wednesday (I'll be there), but we're also trying to get as many people as possible to submit testimony opposing this b…

For the record I remix quite a few songs and I'll post em up here whenever I do a new one. I don't like having zip files with all of them so I typically just upload them all to my kiwi6 account. All the songs I've recently remastered have a bass line that sits right around -5dB, so you may have to adjust your gains to get the most out of them. Here's a link to all my stuff: http://kiwi6.com/folders/wrg8208rg4 And here's a link to all of the songs I've gone through and remastered (I have a LOT to upload...I've remastered 65 songs so far but only have a few uploaded): http://kiwi6.com/folders/oaqnh8ntf0 Just did this one for Julian cause he wanted a remix of this song that…

From time to time I come across old drivers. A lot of which are so old, finding listed t/s parameters is impossible. So I have started the search for a way to test for t/s parameters myself. Which lead me to parts express and the woofer tester 2. Anybody had any experience with this thing ? How accurate are the measurements it provides ? Is there any other cheaper more accurate way to test t/s parameters ? Any help would be much appreciated. here's a link to the woofer tester 2. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=390-802

So i just sold my nightshades.. got $900 to spend on new setup which would be subs and speakers(still stock, idk what to look for). I still want the walled idea its just that two nightshades was too much for me i want something still loud and proud but the thing was that i couldnt power them correctly, dont have enough money. but the box is already made to fit two 15s, it wasnt really custom made for the nightshades, it was for any pair of 15s. so im lookin for two new 15s i like rap, hip hop, and dubstep. i loveeee decaf. i dont blast my music i listen to it very gently. but you know i give demos to friends and show what my stuff can really do! i currently have a saz 1…

wats going on everyone.? i got a nice system in my car but its not producing the way i really would like for it to produce

so, i found out on saturday that after i come up with 1400 bucks for repairs, i can have my dads old car. it is a 99' ford contour. you know me, the typical basshead, already thinkin about possible woofers. i settled upon the IA-DP21 i want to put a wall where the backseat is, and integrate the box into the car. (i.e. make a box using wall of backseat, firing woofer into cabin, porting it through the rear deck) I think it would look cool as hell. Here is the amp i am gonna use: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5694 i know, not the best but i want to bump a little while saving up for a 3kd. damn, bell rang g2g to lunch. ty for feedback on this idea!

Here is a pic of the car My Trunk specs are: Trunk Width: 42.5 Inches Trunk Depth: 28.5 Inches My Goals: To Be Heard from a good distance, clean solid bass coming out of the car, very loud (im sure you got the point) Possible SPL Competitions My Budget: $2500 or less for the amp(s) sub(s) and the electrical upgrade Does Looks of the system Matter? No it doesnt all i am looking for is sound, and bass, not looks of the setup What IS able to fit in my trunk: 3 12" Subwoofers 2 15" Subwoofers 1 18" Subwoofers **obviously anything less will fit too The Material used for the box Fiberboard (any other suggestions for better sound, let me know) What is the system I am looking at…

well guys, i'll be moving into my dorm in less than a month now so i need to figure out what to do about a system i have a Yamaha RX-500U for the receiver, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...eName=WDVW&rd=1 says it's 50wpc x 2 but i know it has 4 channels and they're 6 ohm stable stereo/12 ohm stable mono my plan was to use the rear 2 channels to hook up a PE 250w plate amp with the speaker level inputs and run that to my RL-i8s at 4 ohms, i won't have my car so i might as well put the subs to good use, i need suggestions for box size and tuning frequency and then, i dont know what to do about my mids/highs, i want you guys' input on this i have these to wor…

Do you think that a company should replace a blown woofer when the install used the factory recommended specs for a sealed enclosure size and the recommended power with no clipping??? Just wondering

If I didn't just order an amp I would be all over this, hell I still might grab one. $100 shipped! http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JBL+-+Grand+Touring+Series+600W+Class+AB+Multichannel+Amplifier/5764474.p?id=1218695447823&skuId=5764474&st=jbl%20amp&cp=1&lp=1

LOL

Open to all suggestions, as I'm pulling my hair out trying to combat this, and I'm not sure where to attack first, as aiming is only helping partly For reference, i drive a 98 mountaineer (ford Explorer) I can't get vocals to come from above the dash withtweets at the A pillar and 6.5's in the factory locations. I REALLY dont want my tweeters in my doors. It looks awful on my doors. The best luck i had was with a pair of 4" noname coaxials up on the dash aimed at the dome light, from 350hz up, midbass 50-350 and the 18 from fifty down. I have time alignment currently, and am lining up to replace my HU as well as add in a MiniDSP, but for no…

Me and Duran are arguing about this on Yahoo. I like speakers behind my head.... But he says no. I say yes. I was thinking 4 6x9"s again. Thoughts? And also, one thing that I have never understood fully is Active vs. Passive. I will be using the settings in radio and at the amp. So, Plz explain to me in DETAIL what active vs passive is. Thanks. =) Old system

Better take advantage ... http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&D...&WebPage_ID=348

my car lights flicker when running my sound system 15 if q 1500wrms with soundstream rubicon 2500 sub set up at 4 ohms = 800-900wrms for amp....the ground is secure and in a solid place metal to metal.. what else could be happeneing. my bass knob is turned only to middle when this happens meaning is probably hitting at 600-700 wrm.... i checked my car battery and its fully charged duralast gold wich is bigger then optima yellow top.. and i also have a kinetic 600 on back they the lights flicker when my subs hit high sounding bass. uuggh can only imagine whats going to happen when i connect the subs down to 1 ohm meaning 2500 watts rms when summer is over. What could b…

I was having problems with duel alternators on my 05 hummer basically the computer would shut them off when I would plug in the second alt.Coming to find out I was not alone lots of people have a similar voltage problem.I am wondering how many more people have this problem.GM has a new 80% charging set point 13.8volts is all the computer will allow your system to charge.Anyone else having problems all makes and models info welcome.

I'm getting ready to go hop on a plane to Florida to sign a contract that should keep my summers pretty busy for the next 4 years. I should get back on Monday morning. I'm gonna go ahead and layout the rings, and get the panels wrapped in fleece. If you don't mind I'm going to take pictures along the way and make a pictorial of my crazy ways of doing things. And post them here, and probably over a caraudio.com as well. If this is okay with you that is

Got the system up and running and upgrading my alpine mono amp with a sundown 1000d. Sub amp is disconnected right now. Gains on my 100.4 are set very moderately. Around volume 44 on my 800prs my speakers will shut off. There is no pop or to the ear sounds of distortion. I just drove back up to college and did not get any times of cut off. It has happened on both cds and ipod. Could i just be playing it to loud? Also, i have a d3100 up front and the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge. Any ideas would be very appreciated. Best Regards, Steve

Ok well here's the scenario: I am running a 15" BTL off of a JL Audio 250/1 (not the v2 one). On the amp along with the power light and protection mode light it has a light that is labeled "low Ohm" with the little ohm symbol. This amp's lowest rating is 1.5 ohm. My woofer is wired down to 1 ohm. But i figured it wasn't a big problem. OK so here's the problem - just now I noticed that on a certain note of a song (Lil Jon-Throw It Up) the light labeled low ohm blinks. Then i noticed sort of a popping sound coming from the box. So i went around to the back and popped the trunk. Then i could really hear the popping sound. I believe the sound it coming from the sub itself an…

I was at my local shop today. Now, this shop is pretty popular around town. It's a small shop but a lot of 1st and 2nd place bass race and spl comp guys come out of this shop and compete at Carl Casper. There show room is flooded with trophies right now so you would think that they have a LOT of info in the audio world. While i am researching for the best subs that would meet my application, i was just curious as to what they would suggest me. They sell off the top of my head - Alpine, Soundstream, Powerbass, JBL and a couple others but nothin bigger than them that i remember. Anyways, i asked the guy if he could recommend a 10" sub for a ported box that would do well …

Ok guys I give up! I need your help to completely redo my substage. My goal for my system is to have some loud SQ if at all possible. Want 2 10'' or 1 12''. Only thing I'm keeping from my current stock is my amp which is a PPI PCX 2200. Price range 600-700 Type of music: Hiphop/ R&B Car: 1997 bmw with the fold down seats. Completely starting over with your advice since I can't do it right on my own. Thanks in advance.