General Audio

i bought a fully loaded Fi BTL 18", dual 1 ohm I have a 1ohm stable amp. Hifonics Bx1605d for the moment until i buy my sundown 3000. How do i wire the sub at 1 ohm? probably a newb question, i know and im sorry but i searched a while and couldnt find anything. sorry i am just confused and dont have anyone near me who can do it or tell me with out charging. i am new-ish to the car audio thing but i know how to do most of it. Only 17. please give me some pointers or a link to somewhere to give me a hand or something to make sure i do this rite. Thanks in advance!!! Nofear.

Now for the question . Is it better to run in a daily driver setup 1 or 2 ohms? I there really a difference between the two besides the resistance in the current.

ok this started a month ago, my right hand sub blew, i chocked it up to a year of abuse and so forth, so i reconed it, dropped it in, and blew it in seconds,.... i thought maybe i miss shimmed it. well i barrowed a pair of BTLS from a good friend, and same mother fucking thing, every time on the right hand side sub. i checked all my speaker wires, and termials i check how i had it seriesed, i did find what seemed to be an issue of 1 RCA seemed to cut off when i jiggled it, but even if its shorting out, its feeding a mono block amp.... so it would short BOTH subs.. not just the right hand. im really at my end and im not sure what else it could be.... i cant con…

im trying to design my new system. im looking for quality as well as spl. i want 1 12'' SUB, 1 AMP, and 1 HU. that is all. right now im looking at a Fi 12'' Q subwoofer or should i look into the bl instead? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum... amplifier: hifonics BXi 1606D (1600 watts) http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... hu: kenwood excelon x791 or alpine 9883 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... vs. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/... any changes? suggestions? help me out.

I got my orion 2500d back from the stereo doc. last night and wired up one of my subs to the amp @ 4 ohms. didn't play much with the eq. and junk, just set it at about 80Hz, and gain about 3/4. My kinetik 2400 has not got here yet, so its only drawing from the yellow top under the hood at the moment, but it seems to do fine with the load boss 230A alt., at all but full volume, then I need to step on the gas a little to keep the volts up around 12. the box is a "team toxic bass/ hexi-base" horn enclosure tuned to about 45Hz. guys were bored at the shop so I stopped in to test out the single 15" 144.7 db thats on music, a random song.... not bad huh? sounds amazingly clean …

Ok im about to drop the hammer and get some subs but I have a question. Which one of these has the potential to get louder 1. 10" Brahma in a ported box built to spec OR 2. 2-10" either FI BL or RE SX subs in a sealed box Either setup will be powered by a sundown1500d.

Hey guys I am looking to upgrade my head unit in my boat. I am redoing the hole thing. I have two 15 SSA in ported boxes. (Still waiting on this stuff) For highs I have eight Hertz 6.5" at 4 ohms with two Hertz amps running them in stereo. I dont have room for and head other than a 1-Din. I have a marine Kenwood now in boat with two wired remotes. Bluetooth is a must! My Kenwood now is not and running a cable to phone sucks. I play 90% of my music from phone. I am willing to ditch the wired remotes for a better head. I did order Kenwoods new marine unit it is Bluetooth but feel there is better.... I want good eq controls,is higher rca volts better? The new Kenwood was lik…

my buddy is in need of 3x 5' sections of 1/0 awg or = of welding cable, for big3 dont care about the color(if you happen to have small sections layin around), or if its 1 or 3 pieces, we live in Colorado, if you can help us out my number is 970-599-4197

So i was looking on ebay for some 1/0 plus crimping tools and i ran into these 3! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290366545106&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300369545241&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250506888778&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT and i was wondering if anyone had ANY experience with any of those 3 device used to crimp there terminals to the wires. i currently use a vise/hammer and chisel and i have been noticing my wires are stiff if that makes sense? so anyways if you have used these tools in the pas…

Hey guys the SAX1200 has 4awg terminals and I was hoping to run 1/0 for the power & ground. What is the best/most direct way to get the 1/0 to fit in the terminals? Thanks.

I want to give you guys a heads up that DC Power now sells power wire at good prices. Check it out. They are also working on power distribution components 1/0 $3.75/ft 2/0 $4.50/ft 3/0 $5.00/ft

First, i feel like an idiot for having to ask this. But my 10 gauge klear kable from knukonceptz is confusing me a little bit. It's not one wire, but two runs that are kinda stuck together. I dont know if i'm describing it well, but i'm hoping everyone else but me knows what i'm talking about lol. One strand is a square like shape, and the strand connected to it is circular in shape. I thought maybe i was supposed to strip off both, so i did that and then twisted them together to fit in the terminal (fi bl), but no cigar. Can someone please help me? Thanks, i really do feel dumb for this lol, Mitch

any where i can order some or i herd u can us power wire any thoughs on that

Just wondering which would be the better sub.. They are both priced about the same.. And the handling is about the same also..

well i purchased a 100.2 then plans changed a bit i should have got a 100.4 but im going to work with the 100.2 run down Vehicle: 1994 gmc sierra Subs: 2 SD1 12's V1's Amp: SAX-100.2 Comps: Image dynamics ctx65cs the dilemma running in tri-mode essentially runs the same frequency to the subs and components. i already have everything on a subsonic filter below 30hz. now i need to keep the subs from playing above about 90 hz and the comps from playing anything below around 60hz. i cant use the EQ that im using for a subsonic filter because when i try to filter for the comps its just going to kill the bass. so im going to have to make some crossovers i quess heres a pic of …

A really nice kid that comes to my town once in a while to check out my van build has a school dance coming up and wants to borrow one of my EP4000s to run off his old receiver that has no crossover. He's running a car audio sub, I think it's a 15" Shocker Sig I'll make sure tomorrow, probably in a car audio box built to spec, going to guess 4-6 cubes tuned around 33Hz...I'll verify that as well. I trust the guy and he's really cool, but I don't ever move my amps...I dont ever fiddle with them...I dont want anything happening to them. My girlfriend, her son, and I use the stereo round the clock. I'd really like to come up with a VERY cheap alternative if possible and try …

Well got a customer wanting to do 2 10s in a center console of an suv mainly for midbass . What iv done already in it is 2 sp4 18s on an ampere 9k . . 4 crescendo 6.5 neos (one in each door) and a supertweeter in each door . 2 ppi 900.4s (one for mids and one for tweets) dual alts. Northstar batts and lots of 1/0 . . . Just looking at any recommendations on what 10s and where to go about tuning the enclosure. . Iv just never had to build something just for midbass befor . . He was wanting to get the crescendo neo 10 because he has the 6.5s in the doors but not sure about that

Here is what i have and what i am trying to do. I have a 2003 Saab 9-3 with 7 speakers from Factory (3 on the dash, front doors, and rear deck). I have 4 sets of Kenwood Components that i wish to install in addition to the 7. I will be replacing the 7 factory speakers with 7 Kenwood so i can keep the sound consistent. My Idea is to install a pair of speakers into the back doors. I am in the process of making a new custom fiberglass Rear deck which has holes for the Original speakers and a slot in the center for 1 component set. I am going to build a new center storage compartment so that i can place my last component set there. What i am looking to do with wiring is t…

I have 12 cuft to work with in the back of an 75 caprice what would you do sub wise?? and yes im looking for two dirrerent setups for two different cars

So I got this 12 inch square sub for free and I wanted to use it temporarily in my tribute till I get a box built for my other 12 .. But the square one has no info on it except the dust cap witch seems to me is just an X .. If anyone knows about this sub or brand please let me know thanks

Does anyone know if the volume and port length calculator work pretty accurate on the 12 volt website?

The 12 Volt Guru also known as Dave Edwards, is a simply amazing man to talk with. I gotta tell eveyone he seems such a simple down to earth man that its rather amazing. I just gotta tell all of you who haven't spkoe to him if you ever get the chance to pelase do so, J

Is 12gauge speaker wire sufficient for running a saz-1500d to sa12s. I'll be running the amp at 1ohm. Speaker wire is about 4feet in length. If it can't handle that much power then can I just double it up and run two strands for each positive and another two for the negative.

Been looking at the Fi Qs. But now I've read some good things about the Havocs as well. Just checking to see which one you guys may think would be a better all around daily driver for a sealed box with .90 cuft. per sub. Except for the fact that they're a good company I really dont much about Ascendant Audio. Which one has more Sq and which one is more Spl oriented or would one be better at both than the other? Also how much do the Havocs cost I couldnt seem to find that on their website. Thanks for any input.

after slaving by his computer for hours maybe days, Ravo has released a working database www.12vdb.com www.12voltdb.com add equipment you own or feel that you have a deep connection to, write reviews, etc etc!! 12vdb is now open!! thanks to all who have helped (especially Ravo and Megahurtz)