General Audio

could somebody model a box for me in WINisd or bassbox, etc. i'm looking at the Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer (regular magnet) Tang Band W8-740P 8" Subwoofer and the Tang Band W8-1363SB 8" Subwoofer (neo-magnet) Tang Band W8-1363SB 8" Subwoofer i have 2 of the reg mag ones in a 1.6 cu ft box tuned to 28hz (a moe lester box from caraudio.com)and they absolutely stomp a$$, i would like to add 2 more subs, but i don't know if i should stick to the reg mags or the go to the neo-mags. i'm lookin to keep the box size small as possible without havin the subs choke or underperform. and for those who understand, these will be for a new box. please help

Some kid was talking smack the other day about my choice of audio equipment. I proceeded to laugh in his face. He mentioned a brand called VIBE made in the UK. I never heard of the brand. I was just wondering what they are all about and if they are a good speaker. Also wondering where I could find a price list. Here is the company's website. VIBE - Vented Innovative Bass Enclosures - Car subwoofers, speakers, amps, installs, ICE and more!

Ok, so about a week ago I got my final system installed, except for the amp. Now when we were playing with it and just playing some music the rattle wasn't too bad but I put a layer of Stinger Roadkill on it and it helped a bit. Fast foward to this evening. I was demoing for some friends and I haven't had bad rattle yet until now. My trunk lid is now slapping and it's getting ugly. My setup is sub up port back so basically this sub is firing right at the trunk lid. So on a good note, this sub is moving enough air and creating enough pressure to begin to damage my trunk. On the downside, it's damaging my trunk. Question: Would another layer of deadener help with this? Or…

Hey Everyone, I will be starting a build log soon on my 89 Mustang Coupe. plan on taking out the rear seat and making a 2 chamber box for 2 15's BTL's Judging from these pics give me some opinions of how i should face the subs. And as well as any opinions! Thanx ! Build Log will start soon <BR> <BR>

i need some guidance here. I'm looking at a 2 way 10" mid bass with horn setup, the 10's I'm looking at seem to go up to around the 800-1200hz range so the horn needs to handle around 1k and up. i found some limited information from 07 on how a setup would work and from what i gather i want the horns positioned under the dash and firing parallel to the floor? with some processing i should be able to raise the sound stage up to about dash level? i also read that the width will more than likely be less than the distance between the a pillars if i don't add any other tweeters and that the horns would benefit from a 16khz and up super tweet? ive never done a horn…

I'm slightly unsure as to what section to put this topic in so mods please move this if you see fit. I'm a first semester electrical student and I'm pretty familiar with the ohms law wheel and its formulas. But, for some reason I fall short when trying to calculate the total impedances of a certain car audio circuits. My question is what formulas do you guys use to figure out all of the different ohm loads that can be used w/ corresponding VC configurations. Ex. 2 Dual 2 Subs What are all of the ohm loads that can be reached. I understand that anyone can go 2 the rockford fosgate wiring wizard and find a solution. But I'm more interested in how these values are derived.

As you know, a Power Acoustik A2400DB is in transit to my house via UBetterNotScrewUpMyPackageSPS Air Mail. Wire ... wire ... wire. Wire. I can get a Power Acoustik 2 gauge kit (complete) for $24 USD + $20 to ship it since I'm in Canada. However, it comes with an AGU style fuse and fuseholder, which will not cut it. So I'd be upgrading to an ANL style fuse and fuseholder. So I'd be paying $44 for the kit, plus another $43 for a fuseholder and fuse - which puts me at $87 USD. KnuKonceptz has a nice 1/0 gauge kit. Doesn't come with an RCA, but that's not a big deal because I have an extra on here I can use. Of course, KnuKonceptz does NOT ship to Canada. That's a $70…

my monoblock for my btl my 4 channel for my frontstage my ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL orion HCCA millenium edition 2 ohm 6.5" midwoofers. i spent a small fortune on these, the gonzos, and the crossovers; but very much worth it. my robot underground gonzo 2" aluminum tweeters my a/d/s A6is cross over networks (with 2 ohm lowpass mod) my RE-69FR 6x9 speakers in some nice boxes Still waiting on my sub box as well but every one please go check out Josh Salrin at www.finecustomworks.com, he makes the nicest and highest quality boxes you could imagine, shoot him an email and he will hook you up with any box you want, you choose every last detail and customization possible t…

so i was wondering its easier for me to make payments over a period of time than it is to save the money to buy quality like sundown or fi. do any of these companies do that?

I am about to order some bulk 1/0 ring terminals from Darvex but they have two different sizes. one is 3/8 and other is 5/16. I just want to verify what size fits XS power battery terminals? I will be using them to wire together my batteries and to upgrade my ALT ground to my BATT ground (which is also XS Power). I cant remember for the life of me what size I grabbed before Thanks.

I have 10-8 inch and 6-10 inch PRV audio speakers. I have Taramps HD8000 2ohm running all 16 speakers. My question is will I get better performance from all 16 speakers if I separate the 8's and 10's to different amps? It does get reasonable but in my opinion I have heard smaller systems get louder with less power.

I'm looking to go with a 6th order bandpass for the rebuild in my car, so I'm looking at designs on youtube, this BEAST has caught my eye: Anyone got any sort of info on this??

Hi all, longtime lurker, first time poster. I'm not new to car audio, but I am new to this forum. I have an issue with my system setup, basically that there isn't much bass over the factory premium audio system. It's a long post so bear with me. I am trying to get a similar output to the systems I've had in the past but am coming up short. My previous system was in a 2007 Grand Prix. It had a Kenwood Excelon headunit with sub out, two PPI Art series amps (an A300 running the highs @ 2ohms and an A600 bridged to 4ohms to run the subs), the highs were a pair of 6 3/4"s in the front doors and a pair of 6x9s in the rear deck- all the high speakers were Kenwoods, and a pair …

Hey guys i think I'm in the right area of the forum to post this but if I'm not, my bad. I bought two Fi BL 15s fully loaded with the daily option a few months back. Originally I was going to buy a Sundown or Cresendo amp but money is tight so I've been looking into the Hifonics BE 2500.1. I know they have a bad name, but I currently own an older series Hifonics BXi 2008d and honestly love the amp. Don't get me wrong I've had it repaired about 4 times but all due to inefficient power supply. The new series is CEA compliant and Steve Meade proved they do put out the power advertised. With that being said, do you guys think a 240 amp Mechman Alt could power the 2500 rms am…

I am working on custom center console for my dodge ram. Here are some pics if interested.

like the title says is there a big audible difference between 33hz and 34hz?

I managed to become confused. How do you wire a cap to your amp??

Ok so I bought 2 IDW 15's after reading the spec sheet and it saying I needed 1.5-2cu ft sealed... After asking about it I hear IB and giant boxes are what it needs from squeak over on CA.com.. After searching the net it seams most people did IB installs with the IDWs... so does anyone here have experience with non-IB installs on IDW's... The only two thought I have are seal off the entire cargo area with plexiglass (ummm I'd rather sell the IDW's) or make a box the size of the entire cargo area level up to the seat backs... I could swing this, I'll measure it tonight to see how much space this would give each IDW...

This is my setup and i need advice to see if i need a capacitor or not. 2001 toyota avalon xl 2 Type r's 1222d Kicker zx1000 Kenwood double din headunit This is my first system and the people at the electronics store said that i need a cap but i cannot be sure. I dont know how to do the big three upgrade. My question: Do i need a capacitor and if i dont have one will my lights be dim? and Will the alternator and battery be able to handle the power without sacrificing the dimming of lights and other electrical problems? i think the alternator gives out 80 amps stock and with the car on it is between 13.5-14.5V thanks

I just got 2 20" subs of ebay for real cheap. The subs are a brand called reempower. i can't really find any info on them. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a box size for these subs. I am going to have them ported at 30hz and was wondering what an appropriate enclosure size should be.

I've been out of the game for a while, and I'm hoping for some good recommendations. I installed my system about 6 years ago and haven't really upgraded it since them. Then some guy decided it would be fun to break my rear window and steal my subwoofer and amps. Gone is my Soundsplinter RL-p15 and some old school PPI amps. Not to mention my custom-molded fiberglassed enclosure and amp rack. Sigh. So like I said, I've been out of the game for a while, and I preemptively apologize for the newbie question. But I'm hoping that someone can toss out a quickie listing of the internet-favorite subs right now so I can focus my research a bit. I'll probably downgrade to a 12" sub s…

Big thanks to Shizzon for shipping out my meter promptly and what a great price for a rare and extremely helpful tool. Specs, 02 Camry (sunroof) Mechman 220a, 2 dekas in the rear, XS D2400 under the hood AQ... Wait, Soundcubed 3500.1 @ .7 2 BTL N2 18s, pink dustcaps which help a little on the meter. ~13 cubes at 36-37hz Not exactly completely sealed off, I used high density foam to keep the resell value of my car. Box has awful flex which I'll be fixing in a week with some steel bracing. Plenty of testing to come so I'll keep updating this thread. So far I just ran a sweep legal style and just used the same frequency outlaw. Outlaw Sealed Another outlaw score Outl…

Playing in the 10"port..

So i just bought 2 Stinger voltage meters for my XS batteries to keep tabs on the volts and i am hoping to mount them on the side of the dash in my ford ranger. i dont have the tools or skills yet to do a whole fiberglass mold so i will be using a dremel to cut out 2 square holes to flush mount the 2 meters. the system i am getting will be hitting at least 140db so i need to figure out what adhesive (or whatever else i can use) to keep the meters stuck to the inside of the dash panel without having to use fillers. anybody got any advice how to keep these things in place?

So I just got me a new ride, 99 Dodge Dakota extended cab, which means designing a new system and a little insight from the wonderful minds at the SSA forums. As stated, ride is a 99 Dodge Dakota extended cab with rear seats removed. Completely stock at the moment. Planned electrical would be Big 3 upgrade with 0 ga, stock battery up front and a Kinetik 2400 in the back. Wasn't planning on upgrading the alt at this point, but I realize it may be a necessary upgrade in the future. Already decided on equipment would be an Alpine digital media receiver and some Second Skin sound deadening, yeah not much but a start. I listen to hard rock, metal and some rap. Budget would be …